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Unimog U1250
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Australian Unimog Camper Project

This is the start of my camper project thread. I will post the photos as I progress the works, hopefully in the end it will match some of the other threads I've seen on build-ups here.


First off - this is the photo from the auction the persuaded me to buy this Mog




Then the night I got it home.




This weekend I sold the crane and cherry picker - I drove it over to the new owners yard, and in the course of a few hours, we had the whole sub-frame off. On the way to his place it struggled up the hills and could hardly reach 60kph. On the way back, it was keeping up with the traffic even though I could not get it to rev past 2100rpm. I'm sure it's got something to do with the fuel pump settings or the fuel filters are blocked. It had a good turn of acceleration, even with most of the high-rail system still attached.

This is how it is today, I'm starting to remove the hi-rail system and will strip out all the masses of associated pipe work.








More photos to come as things progress.
 

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'88 U-1300L, '70 406, '78 406, '78 416 project, '82 406, '57 404, '65 404, '70 404, '68 Haflinger.
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We'll be enjoying your progress!!

Bob
 

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1980 U1000 Turbo...
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I could make an awesome set of ground anchors with those arms for the rail wheels!
Shame you're so flipping far away!
Good luck with the build, look forward to following it.
I'd check the fuel filters first and foremost.I probably clean my prefilter every month and change my mains every 6 months for what they cost.
 

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Unimog U1250
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383 Posts
Great looking truck! :D

Good luck with the project, too! I started my U1250 project a year ago, but I'm sure you'll finish before me. :D

Please take a lot of pics so we can learn from each others.
 

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Unimog U1250
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Discussion Starter #5
Update

Here is the results of this weekend's work - all the hi-rail gear is gone - another half a ton of weight gone. I've started to strip out the hydraulic system. I have a bucket of hydraulic hoses - 12 so far, and next weekend I'll move onto the valve blocks and larger hoses from the pump. There is now lots of space for the charge-cooler's radiator on the RHS.




I took the truck outside and gave it a good pressure clean, still have quite a bit of work to do before being ready to paint the chassis. Whilst I would love to sandblast and do the full re-paint, I'm not going to completely strip off all the air lines and brake lines. That is just too much work and there are only a few areas where the I have a bit of surface rust so I'm going to save a bit of time and just loosen the lines a bit, lift of and sandpaper or power wire brush the chassis, paint rusty areas with POR15 followed by painting (by brush) the balance of the chassis with an epoxy paint.



I have pressure cleaned the underside of the cab, and after using the power wire brush to key it in, I will soften up the existing under seal with some thinners before applying more under seal, especially in the areas where there is still a bit of the orange paint showing. All in all it's not too bad for it's age.

I have a fair bit of work to do on the cab, so next weekend I will start to strip out more of the interior and get ready for sound and heat-proofing.

I will have to replace the seals on the driver's door, they are perished. I'll see if Atkinson Vos have some new ones and add it to the order that will be shipped off soon. On Friday I bought the overdrive unit, and they have just enough space in my crate with the wheels. This is the "before" shot of the back of the engine - soon it will have an overdrive on it.





I need a few other spares as well - I have a few air leaks in the brake system - one leak is on the connection on the air line that goes to the big tank, so will need some joiners and fittings, and the sway bar bushes are perished - rear one has fallen out. I have a set of Koni shocks on order - I have to cut the bolts out of the rear shocks as they were rusted in solid, just spinning the rubber bush. I had to take them out to get the hi-rail gear off. I have not tried the front ones yet - but will replace them as well. It also seems like on of the rear park brake is not working - at least I can spin on of the rear wheels when the park brake is on - I suspect it will have something to do will standing so long.

My rear springs has a set of auxiliary springs inside - since I won't be loading the rear as much as the crane did, should I remove them?

The front bed mount seem really weird -



They are very heavy duty, but will they suit a camper - they are seem to only pivot longitudinally, unlike the transverse mounts I've seen here on the forum. The centre mounts wrap around the transverse cross member, and hav plastic bearing shells on them. Please can someone take a few photos of their front, middle and rear bed mounts - the ones that fit onto the chassis. I will have to make a new rear one - as that was fitted in such a way that I could not remove if from the sub-frame until the crane was removed - if the new owner sells the crane without the sub-frame then I'll go over and cut if off, but most likely I'll fabricate up a new one - the old one was extremely heavy duty - like most things they made on this mog..
 

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G500, Unimog 2450, Pinzgauer 712M
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The front bed mount seem really weird -
Iain,

Here's a photo of the front mount on my 2450. The center mount is the rubber saddles, same as you described, and the rear is the same as the front. In the photo, the front of the bed is at the very right side.

Nice truck by the way. Keep posting the pics.
 

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G500, Unimog 2450, Pinzgauer 712M
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More pics of the front bed mount...

You can see two raised up "pads" where the base of the pivot for the front mount of the bed sits. Bottom right, and the other one in front of the fan at the far side, little bit of rust on the top surfaces. The pads bolt to the frame. The near one is part of the fuel tank strap bracket.
 

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Unimog U1250
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Discussion Starter #11
If it is not too much trouble, would you mind taking a few more photos from all sides, what and where they bolt up to and how the bed fits on top.

I wonder if I could buy some of these second hand - might be easier than fabricating them.

They are just bolted on, on mine anyway.
 

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G500, Unimog 2450, Pinzgauer 712M
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No problem, Iain. It will take a couple of days though - the mog is at our weekend place up in the mountains.

In the meantime, here's a pic of how a mog camper can look underneath. Just fabricate a lighter duty version of what's under a normal bed, and use all the same mounting points....
 

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G500, Unimog 2450, Pinzgauer 712M
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If it is not too much trouble, would you mind taking a few more photos from all sides, what and where they bolt up to and how the bed fits on top.
Iain,

Here's a few photos of the front mounts on my mog. They bolt on the same 3 holes used to mount the cross-member below. The top of the mounts is then level with the top of the frame at the rear of the truck. That makes me think there might be different sizes of it available, but I don't know.

The photo I posted earlier of the underside of a camper is not my truck. I am thinking of building a camper just using the base of the existing bed. I lose a bit of height that way, but it saves a lot of engineering. As Charlie pointed out, the California diesel regulations are going to force all of us here to go camper.
 

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