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Discussion Starter #1
Following on from what AMG did back in the day when they released the Hammer 6ltr 32v engine.

Obviously they were aware the air cleaner intake needed all the help it could get so they used an W107 left intake duct for their mod to allow more air-flow to the filter.
In my eyes it did look a bit odd as the left duct was longer than the W126 right duct.
See their pics below.

Wind forward today and i have sourced the actual matching left duct from a W107 560SL which actually does replicate the right W126 intake duct in dimensions to give a symmetrical look to the intake system.

My air cleaner assembly on both cars has also been modified to accommodate the larger intake duct and a few other mods if you can pick them.

Pics below of the completed mods of the 560SEL and the 500SEC engine bay.
Still got to tidy it all up and give everything a good detailing and polish

I have not yet done the other mod to the air-cleaner housing rear hump over the the fuel distributor to cut it down in size on the sides as i have not made up my mind yet if i want to hack it up to reduce the width of the hump.
 

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What a great contribution Kim! Many thanks.

I am interested in this sort of thing, as I am sure others are as well.

What might be your final stage part numbers, please?


TY, MBL
 

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Tagging for more info, while I'm satisfied with mine, I like the Balanced look, rather than the different tube sizes I currently have. One more thing, The drivers side tube does not attach to anything, I need to find a duct to complete this.

20190713_205634.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #4
First of all you need to source a 560SL intake duct from a wrecking yard.
Not easy to do as they will only sell the whole air-cleaner housing with tube attached and most want a stupid asking price these days.
I had to hunt down 3 of them for all 3 of my W126 cars.

Then you have to mod your own dual duct W126 intake by drilling out the pop rivets to remove the small duct

Then you have to by handy with your DIY metal fabrication skills to open up the opening by making it longer to fit the shape of the larger duct
Care is required in doing this as your need to leave enough metal to create an extra tab top and bottom for an pop rivet top and bottom.
It is a fiddly job and takes a bit of patience to work the alloy into shape as per the pics below

Pop rivets chosen match up to the other original ones

I happen to have a pair of R129 SL500 tubes stored away that are the same size as the W126 and cut them down at the front end to fit to my air intake scoop mounted next to the headlight on both the coupe and the SEL.
I have ordered 3 x W126 tubes from USA Ebay which are plentiful and cheap but they have not arrived yet and will play around with those when they arrive as they will match up the ribbing on the right factory tube.

So yes you need the air-scoop next to the left headlight - if you don't have one then you will have to make one up out of light alloy which would not be hard to do (unless a genuine one can be 3-d printed as they come apart in halves so could be scanned and printed perhaps)
Or perhaps if you can source another right one - cut the back tube off it as it points the wrong way for the left side and mod up the back half of it with alloy to point upwards.

The other mods i did was the actual lower intake to reduce barrier turbulence to incoming air to the air-plate was -
1) I cut of the alloy just forward of the lid bolt thread and removed the front part of the bridge completely including grinding it down at the front of the hole to remove any remains of the bridge and blend it smooth where it was welded at the front edge

2) it trimmed the valve cover vent pipe where it pokes up into the intake housing and ground that right down so the pipe opening did not interfere with air flowing past it (another cause of air turbulence)

3) the air-plate stopper flat bar bridge the crosses over the top opening.
I ground that down "as per the pics below" as that also was proven to be hindering air-flow in the recent engine room dyno tuning sessions we have been following online.
I ended up deciding to leave that bridge stopper completely off as it does not do anything (the air-plate does not reach it)
But for those who chose to leave the bridge in place see the pics below to modify yours to improve airflow

Also if you also run that small air-filter at the front inside of the air-cleaner housing and only a single intake tube - then yes that is a real restriction as it is basically only allowing one half of the air-cleaner to work properly on the intake tube side as stuff all air can get to the other side.
This was proven by the Carobu Engineering guys who confirmed the 560SL owners were being robbed of power via their engine room dyno testing on the single intake duct system (20hp / 20 ft/lb torque on the USA spec engine if i recall)

It is Sunday arvo here and i just came back from test driving both the white coupe and the SEL and i could notice the difference straight away
Both feel a bit more perky for sure (mine are 10:1 comp engines) and i can definitely notice a difference

I am happy with these mods and can understand why AMG did this back in the day some 30yrs ago (those guys were thinking outside the box - that is for sure -haha)
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The other mod i forgot to mention is your fuel lines -
They have to be re-routed in front of the air-cleaner mount where it attaches to the rocker cover left side.
The hard lines from the fuel distributor have to be carefully bent to allow the hoses to come across in front of the mount and just behind the valve cover breather outlet

It requires the hard line little clamp to be removed to allow each line to be bent one at a time and then you can re-attach the clamp that holds both lines together

You can see from my pics
 

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So KRH, your saying I can take my spare 560sec air cleaner housing and one from a 560SL modify my spare sec housing air inlet opening to accept the air inlet tube from the 560SL and, I should feel a difference in my but Dyno?Sorry if this question doesn’t make any sense but I’ve had some grog this evening.
 

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You also have to reroute the hard metal fuel lines , it’s not just as simple as sticking a second snorkel on the other side
 

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Discussion Starter #8
haha - butt dyno is subjective i totally agree.
As the recent thread on Carobu Engeering Dyno sessions proved on a US Spec lower comp M117 as well as the intake, the air-cleaner design is also a restriction especially the single duct version and the US version with that little filter inside the front of the air-cleaner housing.

My engines are already high comp versions running Tri-Ys & custom no cat exhaust systems etc, so this was just an experiment.
On doing some test driving yesterday i did notice a more snappy feeling when mashing the peddle , but that is not to say this mod will help any engine and i can't verify anything with dyno facts

But it does improve the look of the engine bay that is for sure if nothing else.
 

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While I appreciate the thread and conversation as I am a true hp junkie. I am having a hard time believing that opening the up the left side air cleaner an extra 1" or 1.5" would make any real or measurable difference on a street car...maybe a race \ track car where you're at WOT most of the time. Re-routing metal fuel lines is also not much fun and I'm not a fan of bending them out of the way.

As mentioned the dyno doesn't lie, a before and after would be great.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Take your point and i like to push things up a notch as well
https://www.facebook.com/Carobuengineering/photos/pcb.1620149498117683/1620149068117726/?type=3&theater
Going from single intake to dual is definitely a no brainer as per the dyno testing
Going from W126 factory dual to AMG style equal dual ducts is more an aesthetics mod to balance out the look of the engine bay.
The air-plate stopper mods gains 3hp & torque which is better than no gain on a low comp 560 engine - probably more on a 300hp high comp engine

However in saying that
I have more mods to do with that fuel distributor hump in the air-cleaner housing and that is still work in progress to reduce the width of the hump and allow more surface area of the filter to breath. Dyno testing Carabu proved this mod as well

It will be important on my 6ltre build for the black 560 coupe which is work in progress running highly modified heads (completed) and forged 100mm high comp pistons as i reckon that will suck more air in for sure.
 

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On the balanced air cleaner with 2 large tubes, I did mine a little different than Kim did. I found a nice clean 560SL cleaner that has the single large drivers side tube. As this as the base unit I took my existing 560SEC cleaner and cut the larger pass side tube off leaving the cleaner body edge trim so I could fit it the pass side of the 560SL cleaner, mark and cut hole in side and pop rivet the larger tube with attached edge metal to it. You can just see the cut edge but for the most part it looks stock.

It seemed a lot easier than having to bend metal and reshape to fit the larger tube, the biggest downside is you waste a 560SEC cleaner body. I was also able to find the grill adapter/inlet that hooks up to the driver side hose, must have come off a 560SL set up.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
It is actually easier to mod the W126 560 housing to adapt the larger 560SL tube.
Tools needed - marking pen/tin snips or dremel with small cutting wheel /pliers -pointy nose & flat nose/rivet gun- 5.2rivets to match the factory rivets.

I can do the mod in about 30mins now that i have had practice on 3 housings - but i am used to this sort of DIY stuff

As to the fuel lines - the little bracket holding them together near the valve cover needs to be undone to allow each hard line from the FD to carefully be re-aligned for the new position for the fuel hoses to run in front of the Filter housing mounts on the valve cover.

If your not comfortable altering the factory set up - then please don't attempt it.
It is only of interest for us few that like to do something different and are not concerned about originality.

Currently i have cut up a 560SL housing and removed the whole centre where the filter mesh meets the floor and then drilled out the spot welds of the mesh and removed that from the centre piece. Now i am going to figure out a way to reduce the width of the good hump and use the centre from the one i chopped up to assist with the process of shrinking the width of the good hump and still keep it neat looking (and not end up with duct tape as per the pics of the Carobu modded housing) by using the moulded ends from the cut up hump - if that makes sense - haha (i have multiple spare air filter housings to muck around with for chopping up)
 

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It is actually easier to mod the W126 560 housing to adapt the larger 560SL tube.
Tools needed - marking pen/tin snips or dremel with small cutting wheel /pliers -pointy nose & flat nose/rivet gun- 5.2rivets to match the factory rivets.

I can do the mod in about 30mins now that i have had practice on 3 housings - but i am used to this sort of DIY stuff

As to the fuel lines - the little bracket holding them together near the valve cover needs to be undone to allow each hard line from the FD to carefully be re-aligned for the new position for the fuel hoses to run in front of the Filter housing mounts on the valve cover.

If your not comfortable altering the factory set up - then please don't attempt it.
It is only of interest for us few that like to do something different and are not concerned about originality.

Currently i have cut up a 560SL housing and removed the whole centre where the filter mesh meets the floor and then drilled out the spot welds of the mesh and removed that from the centre piece. Now i am going to figure out a way to reduce the width of the good hump and use the centre from the one i chopped up to assist with the process of shrinking the width of the good hump and still keep it neat looking (and not end up with duct tape as per the pics of the Carobu modded housing) by using the moulded ends from the cut up hump - if that makes sense - haha (i have multiple spare air filter housings to muck around with for chopping up)
Could you send pictures of what you have done sofar?

Sent from my MAR-LX1M using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Refer page 1 of the thread as i have attached pics of the mods done so far.
Mucking around with the rear hump over the fuel distributor to reduce its bulkiness is major surgery and i have not attempted to chop up any good housing yet.

As to the air-plate stopper bar mod (see also pic page 1).
The stopper was fitted by MB in case of engine back-fire that would jolt the air-plate and the stopper is a back-up precaution to avoid the plate being bent out of shape.
Leaving it off is owners own discretion - but modifying it to make it less restrictive to air-flow and less turbulence still leaves it serving its back-up purpose.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I have a spare FD with injector lines attached as my dummy test bench - that makes it easy to flip a spare housing upside down and rest the FD in there to visually see and mark out what material can be removed and still clear the hard lines.

The end game is to try and make it a neat job and not a hack job
Will keep updating here as i progress - but it should be a reasonably simple and fun project
 

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I have a spare FD with injector lines attached as my dummy test bench - that makes it easy to flip a spare housing upside down and rest the FD in there to visually see and mark out what material can be removed and still clear the hard lines.

The end game is to try and make it a neat job and not a hack job
Will keep updating here as i progress - but it should be a reasonably simple and fun project
Exactly my thoughts, simple and more importantly, fun.

If we were all practical, all these cars would serve no purpose.

Sent from my MAR-LX1M using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #18
update on the AMG style twin intake housing-

After completing stage 1 of having identical size intake ducts and tubing left & right side of the air-cleaner housing and receiving my new MB tubing so both tubes left & right are also identical i have moved on to the next phase

I have started working on the interior air-cleaner housing mods to allow all the surface area of the filter to breath rather than just half of the filter surface in factory format

As you can see i have not yet formed up the new floor shape over the FD but it will allow the filter to breath from its full circumference.

I may even remove what is left of that centre bridge with the bolt.

Last phase is modifying the central recessed portion of the lid where the nut normally screws down - as that is proven to also be an issue
 

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KRH, looks like there's more room to be gained by modifying the hard lines to fit closer to the fuel distributor. Have you considered that?
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Yes i will be tweeking the two rear injector lines to get as much clearance away from the filter housing as i can. In fact i am going to take more metal off the rear section to expose more filter so i have virtually full filter exposure

If you own a single snorkel V8 you are being robbed of power and in the case of a gen2 500 or 560 especially if you own single snorkel 560SL the power loss is significant between doing this mod in addition to having dual intakes as quoted from Carobu during their dyno sessions on just comparing the difference in air-cleaners

"Quote":-
This graph is our engine with the previously mentioned mods and the stock dual snorkel air filter housing (it has been tuned up slightly since our previous test). Note the power difference between the two air filter housings! 25 HP and 25 on the torque. If you have a 560 SL, you definitely need to replace the single snorkel air filter housing.
While it isn't news that the dual snorkel is better, it is certainly a shock to see how much power it is robbing. — Tate Casey at Carobu Engineering.
"Un-quote"
 
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