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Y2K SL500 Silver
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
MY 2000 Owners Manual says that SL600 cooling system capacity is 21.2 quarts antifreeze.
MY 2000 Owners Manual says that SL500 cooling system capacity is 13.2 quarts antifreeze.
MY 1991 Owners Manual says that SL300 cooling system capacity is 12.2 quarts antifreeze.

The owners manual says to renew 50/50 antifreeze to water every three years to prevent corrosion/freeze or #ZXG051 Zerex G-05 Antifreeze/Coolant try CarQuest or Napa for about $14/gal Note: at NAPA show your AAA card for a 7% savings.

Mercedes p/n Q103002 at Auto Parts at AutohausAZ at $21.60/gal. The M-B Dealer US price=$25.00/gallon
 

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Y2K SL500 Silver
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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
The M-B Owners Manual says that coolant should be renewed every three years with a M-B brand anticorrosion/antifreeze coolant because of the Aluminum components in the system. The renew should be with a 45-50% solution, then driven to remove any air and filled to level.

Note: Per the Owners Manual page 142 - If you use a solution that is more than 55% anticorrosion/antifreeze, the engine temperature will increase due to the lower heat transfer capability of the solution. Therefore, do not use more than this amount of anti-corrosion/antifreeze.
 

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Y2K SL500 Silver
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8,660 Posts
Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
I took advantage of my 2007 Dealer Specials that has been running a $59.00 Coolant Renew which is recommended at three-year intervals.
What they did:
- Pressure-test the coolant system
- Cap, drain and flush the system (including engine block and heater core)
- Replenish the cooling system with Mercedes-Benz approved antifreeze for -25°F protection

Can't beat the price when you consider that you will need two gallons of M-B coolant at $45.00, in addition to the labor, and environmental disposal!
Note: Make sure to purge the system of air.
 

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Outstanding Contributor
'03 SL500, '03 SL55, '97 SL320, (2) '91 300SL, (2) '91 500SL, '00 S500 -- all for sale
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4,236 Posts
I only replace fuses when they are blown. If a fuse is not making good contact, I remove it and clean both ends of the fuse as well as the contacts it makes inside the fuse box.
 

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Y2K SL500 Silver
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8,660 Posts
Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
MY 90-98 SL with M119 engine maintenance.

*R129 diagnostics through model-year 1995 and codes

Please read DIY replacing the ignition system distributor caps and rotors on the M119

2 each Bosch Distributor Caps p/n 1191580102 check p/n at Bosch Part Finder
2 each Bosch Distributor Rotor p/n 1191580331
2 each Distributor Rotor Brackets (NEW Heavy Duty) p/n 1191580640
Note: the rotor brackets have been reinforced, you must check and replace them if they are the old style or they will crack again. Please read http://www.benzworld.org/forums/r129-sl-class/1563433-1991-500sl-re-emerging-misfire-problem.html and http://www.autohausaz.com/search/product.aspx?sid=5ejwumyhotprdi452xvtb455&partnumber=04271
2 each Ignition Dust Shield p/n 1191580188
2 each Cam Seal to Front Cover p/n 0189977947
2 each O-ring Seal p/n 0209970548
2-8 each Bosch engine ignition coil
8 each F8DC4 Copper Bosch Spark Plugs and Changing plugs on MY96-98 w/ coil packs
To use Anti-Seize or not on your Spark Plugs and O2 Sensors.
1 each Bosch Spark Plug Wire Set
Bosch Oxygen sensors at 60K and/or 100K miles, check for wiring rub on drive shaft
1 each Bosch Fuel Filter Note: MB is using two gas filters one is small and one is large. Verify appearance and connections of existing filter prior to purchase.
2 each Bosch Fuel pumps
2 each Engine Air Filters.
1 each Cabin Air Filter while your replacing engine filters.
1 each Fuel/Gas Cap.
Check for plugged catalytic converters
Clean or replace injectors
Note: Chevron Premium gas w/ Techron has been suggested by more than several MB Techs for these engines.
1 each MY 93-98 Mass Air Flow meter w/ sensor or clean with CRC "MAF Sensor Cleaner"

Crankshaft Position Sensor(CPS)

Check Rt. and Lft. side Camshaft Timing Solenoids

Be aware of 1993-1995 Wiring Harness Failure Note: please Search the R129 Forum for additional information.

Check Overvoltage Protection Relay (OVP) on MY 90-92 or a Base Control Module and
Overvoltage Protection Relay or Base Control Module

Clean battery terminals and location of ALL fuse boxes. and Copper-Brass ceramic fuse upgrade kit for the early R129 or 8 AMP White brass copper alloy Fuses - 20 PACK Fits All Mercedes up to1995

EZL- Ignition Control Unit (Elektronische Ziindanlage mil Ziindlinienverstellung)
EZL - Ignition Control Module and EZL/AKR Ignition Control Module for MY90-98
DO NOT USE 4MERCEDES.COM - BUYER BEWARE
go to Parts.com for NEW pricing or BBA reman. for a rebuild.
90-92 300SL p/n 0125452132
93 300SL p/n 0125458132
90-92 500SL p/n 0125455732 or p/n 0105454032 is an older p/n @ $2,840.00 NEW
93-98 500SL p/n 0155456132 and 0155456232 are both newer p/n's


For overall good prices and business practices try AutohausAZ.com

I've also utilized Parts.com on several occassions, and have been VERY satisfied, especially with the total cost savings. BTW, I've watched them go through various Policy changes and this is what I've learned. Example: please read Shipping at Parts.com and Returns at Parts.com

At Parts.com you need to add 15% to every price that you see in order to realize the Total price. And it's important for you to know that there is a minimum shipping charge of $10.99+$2.00 handling for all orders. So make sure you order at least $73.27 worth of merchanidise.

Parts.com informed me that if you believe that a part should NOT be charged the 15% shipping then at Checkout be sure and choose 'Freight - Crate - Will Quote - Shipping - TBD' They will then contact you, for approval, with a shipping price.

Try RockAuto with it's BenzWorld 5% discount vendor savings code placed in the ‘How Did You Hear about Us’ shopping cart box, especially for Akebono brakes, etc. good till 8/14/2009

When dealing with ANY internet site please consider the following.

NOTE: ALWAYS supply your VIN (place it in the Special Notes box during check-out.

1) ALWAYS take shipping, handling. and possible tax charges into account when calculating your savings.
2) ALWAYS read the web sites Policies, Terms and Conditions, Returns, FAQ's, etc.
3) Be sure and save the delivery label on the outside of the box as well as any inside shipping label. This will show you which MB Dealer sent the parts to you so that you can contact them first, if you have a problem, rather than Parts.com.
4) I think we all know that our credit card company will support us if we have tried to do the right thing first.

I believe it's OUR responsibility to pay close attention as to how any one Internet site handles it's business dealings. Before there is any real savings to you it's VERY important that YOU read the web sites Policies before you decide to work with some computer in a back room.
 

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2007 CLS 550, 1998 Harley Road King, 2011 F-150 EcoBoost, '65 Shelby Cobra
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Remove and replace ALL vacuum lines around the engine. I think there are four, but I don't remember exactly. It doesn't matter. We are talking about cheap plastic tubing. They get brittle and break. Usually where you can see the problem. Also, check the small opening beneath the EGR valve into the intake manifold. It's common for small amount of carbon to accumulate beneath the EGR and block same. Get a small flat blade screwdriver and clear the small amount of carbon blocking the diaphragms movement. If you don't the next thing you know you will have CEL's left and right and all vacuum operated systems start acting funny.

Rip them all out and install new.
Please see http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w140-s-class/1388726-what-these-lines.html#post2983486
 

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Y2K SL500 Silver
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8,660 Posts
Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Be VERY careful when cleaning these engine compartments. There was a time that I had no problem spray washing my engines but I suggest that you do NOT do that with these cars. There are so many advanced, even in 1992, electrical components that if you get them damp or wet you will be searching forever trying to find out where the problem is.
 

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Administrator
1998 Pano SL500; 1993 SL500; 2005 ML270cdi
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8,760 Posts
Be VERY careful when cleaning these engine compartments. There was a time that I had no problem spray washing my engines but I suggest that you do NOT do that with these cars. There are so many advanced, even in 1992, electrical components that if you get them damp or wet you will be searching forever trying to find out where the problem is.
Just to add, don't use any Silicone based products in the engine compartment. If the spray particles get into the MAF sensor they can damage it.
 

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Premium Member
1997 Mercedes SL500
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111 Posts
Offset Oxygen Sensor Wrench

This has got to be the cheapest solution to the 22mm pass through socket.
No grinding or special tools when you change the O2 sensor.

- 7/8" six-point socket with cutaway for wire clearance
- For use with a 3/8" drive ratchet or breaker bar
- Offset design reaches oxygen sensors in hard-to-access areas

Note: 7/8 inch and 22mm differ by less than 0.01 inch so there is no problem of possibly rounding the nut.
 

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Premium Member
95 SL500, K&N, NEOKEN Ported TB, Custom Intake, RENNtech Sport Exhaust, AMG I Monoblocks
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10,980 Posts
M119 Air Filter Replacement

Removing and reinstalling air filters for a M119 engine is a simple and straightfoward procedure that requires no tools.

1. Remove the plastic cover in front of the airbox by pulling up and out.
2. Remove the plastic upper-half of the airbox by undoing the (10) clips by hand.
3. Gently lift the top of the airbox up and out.
4. You now have access to both air filters.
5. Reverse the procedures for re-assembly.

NOTE: Please be gentle with plastic parts and clips under the hood as they may have become brittle through heat and age.
 

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Y2K SL500 Silver
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8,660 Posts
Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
For those of you who need to replace there valve cover gaskets due to age, please read the following.
Yes, let's hear it for Red Green.

My method is super simple and works great. It involves duct tape so Red Green would be proud.

1. Clean your valve cover. Use alcohol, windex...whatever you can to completely clean and dry the outside lip all around the cover where it seats against the gasket.
2. Put the gasket on the valve cover (and as stated before, it tends to fall off...especially once you flip it over to reinstall).
3. Tear off 4 pieces of duct tape (I use gorilla brand...super sticky and it wont tear when removing it). Make two long ones that run the length of the horizontal sides. 2 short ones for the front and back.
4. Next, use the tape to hold the gasket to the valve cover. KEY TRICK: when you attach the duct tape to the uber-clean valve cover surface, fold over a dog ear on every end of every piece and attach a small extra piece to use as a pull handle. These will make removal easy.
5. Reinstall the valve cover. The gasket should stay in place nicely...assuming you did the cleaning job well enough so as not to have the tape fall off from the naturally oily cover. Oh, did I say, "clean your valve cover"? Trust me, squeaky clean on that outside lip or the tape falls off.
6. Fit your bolts and washers back on...ALL OF THEM...get them almost tight or all the way tight BEFORE you pull on those cute little duct tape dog ears you left for yourself as little handles for easy removal. If you remove the tape before tightening the bolts, the gasket will just fall off again.
7. When ready, use a needle nose, your fingers, or somebody else's fingers to pull off the tape.

Sounds too simple to be true.
 

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1998 Pano SL500; 1993 SL500; 2005 ML270cdi
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Lynn and others are steering me towards the CPS !!

I have just re-read the first page of Wayne's topic with similar symptoms http://www.benzworld.org/forums/r129-sl-class/1435858-bas-asr-fixed-electronic-throttle-actuator.html

I have already bought a fuel filter (which there is no harm in replacing anyway) and I shall now buy the CPS.

I've looked on the Russian parts site and there appear to be two sensors (not the camshaft and knock sensors) numbered 5 and 20 please see attached .pdf file. I have ringed the sensors 5 and 20 and also highlighted the relevant text below.
I'm assuming it is 20 that I need to buy but I would be grateful for some some confirmation.
If anyone has fitted one to an M119 engine I would also be grateful for any advice re. removing and installation. I suppose too that it will need the special TORX socket for the fixings?

EDIT: If anyone has the part number that too would be very useful. Note: Crankshaft Position Sensor p/n 0261210055
 

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Y2K SL500 Silver
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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
1993 500SL CPS

Lynn and others are steering me towards the CPS !!

I've looked on the Russian parts site and there appear to be two sensors (not the camshaft and knock sensors) numbered 5 and 20 please see attached .pdf file. I have ringed the sensors 5 and 20 and also highlighted the relevant text below.
I'm assuming it is 20 that I need to buy but I would be grateful for some some confirmation.
If anyone has fitted one to an M119 engine I would also be grateful for any advice re. removing and installation. I suppose too that it will need the special TORX socket for the fixings?

EDIT: If anyone has the part number that too would be very useful.
I believe you are on the right track for a MY93-95 with Bosch p/n 0261210055 which is also a MB p/n 0031530128 . Please put both p/n's in Crankshaft Position Sensor

The CPS is located at the top of the back of the engine near the bell housing and somewhat difficult to get at, and see, so be prepared to drop the single Torx screw even though everyone says it's a cinch and can be done in 15 minutes if your lucky. Don't forget to put the bonnet in the upright position with plenty of light in order to see.

Start by reading about the M113 CPS at http://www.benzworld.org/forums/r129-sl-class/1445845-my-99-02-m113-engine-tune-2.html#post3618924 and may I suggest that you put together a detailed DIY if there are any differences betwen the M119 engine and the replacement of the CPS?

Could it be your EZL?
 

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The 003 153 01 28 is the right part number, as Europe has a different part than the US, although you are on the wrong EPC page - 119 960, should be on the 119 972, but they both have the same part number. You have to get under the car to get at it. It's on the top of the bell housing, slightly to the left (US/Spain driver's side). You can track it from the EZL on the left inner fender.
 

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1996 SL500 Sport, 1992 SL500 (sold)
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Sorry all, but I spent last night looking at all the different threads regarding this topic and depending on who you ask, there seem to be several recommendations regarding the best spark plugs. I have a '96 SL500 and would like to know what plugs you recommend, how many do I have, and is there a step-by-step pdf on how to replace the plugs.

Thanks!
 

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Greek God of the R129
SL500-500SEL-190E
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8,371 Posts
1. Plugs, buy Bosch F8DC4 gap them at 0.32

NO platinum.


2.You need 8.

3. On top of the valve cover is a black plastic cover, remove it.

4. Pull the boot, not the wire, if it is too tight, you can use a 3/4 open wrench to pry it,
again don't brake them.
If you brake one you can replace it, but it is about $50 a pop.

Use a good quality spark plug wrench and an extension, preferably a lockable.
Craftsman are Ok and reasonable.

When you instal the plugs tighten only by hand, one at a time, do not cross thread them.
Make sure that you don't drop anything in the holes.

One has to start doing things, that also includes me/I.

You may want to buy the parts from autohausaz.com free shipping on more them $50
You may want to get some Febi hydraulic oil for the soft top, etc.

I just read your other post, I thought that you are a teenager.Ok young......

Tighten the wrench with one finger. Lol.

Regards,
aam.
 

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1997 SL500, 1948 Rover 75 P3, 1984 Citroen 2CV, 1953 BSA Bantam D1, 1966 Velosolex Moped
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1,141 Posts
MY97 Spark Plugs R&R

I did this job a couple of months back for the first time and found it straight forward, but slightly unusual simply because this is my first V8 with separate coil packs. I've attached a couple of photographs which hopefully will be fairly self-explanatory of what you will find when you remove the 2 long rectangular plastic covers. See Pic1. I used F8DC4 non-resistive plugs (no R in the number) as recommended by aam. It's desirable to have a long - reach plug socket (found one in my socket set) which grips the plug with a rubber insert, as the thread is buried well down in the engine, and this helps to prevent cross-threading. See Pic 2. I had the luxury of a Sykes Pickavant spark plug torque wrench set at 18Nm (not sure of lbs/ft equivalent) that I picked up off E bay for £10. I'm sure the general rule of 'finger tight then 1/4 turn' will be fine but just don't over tighten. It took me about an hour, 1 cylinder at a time, and I laid all the bits out carefully on a sheet of paper well away from the engine bay.
Regards, Steve
 

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1995 SL500, 2008 GL450
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I have not seen pictures for changing the fuel filter so I thought I would post them. Changing the fuel filter is quite easy and extremely easy if you have a lift, which I unfortunately do not.

1) If no lift, raise and secure the right side of the vehicle. The fuel filter is located just in front of the right tire.
2) Remove the right rear tire.
3) Remove the four plastic nuts from the black cover, which covers the fuel filter and pump.
4) Remove the hose clamps and clamp off the fuel line to stop the flow of fuel and make note of the direction of flow, which is marked with an arrow.
5) Loosen the screw between the fuel filter and fuel pump to loosen the bracket holding the fuel filter.
6) Soak new fuel filter in gas. In this case, I used a field expedient plastic bag.
7) Remove the hoses from each end of the fuel filter and remove the fuel filter. Put down something to catch the gas in the filter.
8) Insert new fuel filter and install with new hose clamps.

Nothing to it. Hope the pictures help.

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #20

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