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1989 560SL, 2001 E320
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73 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
A few months ago, I posted a thread about replacing my windshield, and I expressed concerns about not wanting to give up my OEM glass, damaging my brightwork and seals, and even harming the fabric strip between the glass and dash.

The original thread can be found here:
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/r-c107-sl-slc-class/1593538-upcoming-windshield-replacement-unsure-about-pillar.html

I finally made the decision to have the glass replaced. Safelite auto glass did the work in my garage, and due to the car being a "specialty" vehicle, they sent one of their most skilled technicians who did a fantastic job. I removed all the brightwork myself prior to the arrival of the technician. It was very simple to do. The A-pillar drip guards were a bit more challenging to remove, as they each have 4 screws, 3 of which are hidden underneath the rubber seal, so you need a tool to hold the seal back while you unscrew. Once you get the drip guard loose, you have to carefully pull the rubber seal out of the groove of the inside of the front window rail. I had to be careful with mine since they were a little brittle. Re-installing these drip guards was harder than removing them. I recommend having a friend help.

There was some good discussion on the original thread about the complexity of the job, and how long it would take. Ultimately, the technician took about 1.5 hours to do the entire job, so it wasn't too bad. He was able to remove the original glass without any damage, so I kept it just in case.

I was worried that the old adhesive would stick to and ultimately rip the fabric strip, but it ended up coming off with no problems, and no damage.

I documented the job in order to share it here. Let me know if you have any questions.

====================


Cutting through the old adhesive



A closeup of the old adhesive with the brightwork removed



A better look at the dirt and bugs trapped after many years of service



It came out easily.



A good look at the dash without the glass



The old adhesive came off very easily.



A great opportunity to clean everything.



The old adhesive has been removed. You can see the fabric is stained a bit from it.






A closer look at the fine detail of the fabric strip



Another view from the top corner



Another look from up top



The top channel



A wider view of the bottom



The driver's side a-piller with the VIN plate



Applying a primer (i think that's what it was)



Masking the edges of the new glass to apply primer which protects the new adhesive from the sun.






Spacer is in.



Applying adhesive with a battery powered caulk gun.



A closer look at the bead shape








New glass going in.


 

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1979 280SL, 1984 280SL
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5,641 Posts
Nice! Don't think I've seen any pics of this done on a 107. Nice to get everything cleaned up at that fabric strip!
 

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'80 300SD (W116), '81 300D, '89 560SL, '01 E320
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140 Posts
That's a sweet post. I love all the pictures you took. You can see exactly how he did it. I have a 1980 300SD (W116) and a new windshield and seal sitting in my garage. I'm tempted to try to do it on my own -- I'm hoping I don't need to use the same sealant you used, as my windshield is surrounded by a thick rubber seal with a channel all the way around into which you push the brightwork. Supposedly, when you push the aluminum into the slot in the rubber, it expands and tightens up.
 

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Outstanding Contributor , Bob's Your Uncle!
-----'83 280 SL----- 5 speed....The PIG
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29,224 Posts
Great thread.
I nominate for STICKYVILLE and the Component Location thread.
 

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1984 380SL
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2,303 Posts
What about the wires? My manual says you hook them up a battery which will then melt the old adhesive. Did he install new?
 

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R/C107 Moderator
1986 560SL: '84 500SL: '84 280SL 5 speed: other 107s
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32,007 Posts
What about the wires? My manual says you hook them up a battery which will then melt the old adhesive. Did he install new?
Maybe I haven't had enough coffee. I do not understand this at all.:confused:
 

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Too Many
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1,054 Posts
the old original equipment seals were a similar mastic type, but they were not soft.
Instead, they had a copper wire core, which you attached to the battery for a short period, and the copper wire heated the mastic to it's goo consistency.

then you pounded on the screen to set it in, before the mastic cooled, and cut the wires off flush.

the biggest issue with the old setup, was that if you failed to removed the mastic and primer the area (squeaky clean) then the replacement seal would not bond properly and it would result in leaks.

Also some people didn't heat the mastic long enough for it to become viscous all the way around the aperture, resulting in a weak or in some places an unbonded screen.
 

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R/C107 Moderator
1986 560SL: '84 500SL: '84 280SL 5 speed: other 107s
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32,007 Posts
Learn something new again. I was not familiar with this method.
Thanks JoeB.
 

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1976 450 slc
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422 Posts
the rear quarter louvre windows in my slc employed this same "copper wire" seal, discovered this when I removed the glasses off the louvres to respray, the interior and exterior glasses are held on by this method.
Funny how slc's have an actual windscreen rubber seal compared to the sl's

the lurker
 

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1989 560SL, 2001 E320
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73 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
How much did all that set you back?
I ended up paying nothing, as it was covered under my windshield replacement policy. However, Safelite gave me the receipt:

Parts: $122.52
Labor: $223.00
Tax: $11.40

Total: $356.92.

Not sure if that's a standard rate, or if it's reduced for the insurance company.

I didn't expect that the glass alone would be so cheap.
 

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1989 560SL, 2001 E320
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73 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
What about the wires? My manual says you hook them up a battery which will then melt the old adhesive. Did he install new?
I think you're talking about "Solbit". According to 67-100 "Removal and Installation of Windshield" (attached in case anyone wants it):

"the windshield glass on model 107 can be glued-in witih varying glueing materials: Solbit, Betaseal, or Butyl." and then:

"Solbit: Solbit is an electrothermically fully curing synthetic rubber compound with inserted heating wire."

Turns out I had Butyl, so I didn't have to worry about that.

I've attached the relevant manual sections on removing and replacing the glass in case anyone needs them.

67-100: Removal & Installation of Windshield
68-400: Removal & Installation of Molding on Windshield
68-540: Removal & Installation of ornamental frame on windshield
68-550: Removal & Installation of weatherstrip on windshield pillar
 

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Premium Member
1983 380SL, 2000 S430, 1991 420SEL (retired) - RHD
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5,266 Posts
New windhield installation.

Great job of documenting ds. It'll be very helpful one day soon. My windshield is so pitted I keep thinking it's got tree sap or road grime on it.
 

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1984 380 SL
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246 Posts
great work

I've attached the relevant manual sections on removing and replacing the glass in case anyone needs them.

67-100: Removal & Installation of Windshield
68-400: Removal & Installation of Molding on Windshield
68-540: Removal & Installation of ornamental frame on windshield
68-550: Removal & Installation of weatherstrip on windshield pillar
Many, many thanks owed to you for the above links and also to the author/photographer who took the time to write out this thread. It's just what I needed!
 

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US spec MB560SL 1986, Audi A4 and A6, Ford Taunus 1964 17M and 2.0 1975
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1,419 Posts
Thank You, very informative and clear pics.

I have been concerned start to do this job - your pics are clarifying how it will be done.
 

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1 Posts
I had my SL windshield replaced. The one issue I have is properly fastening the lower corner chrome strips? The technician said he did the best he could but don't seem to be tight or aligned like the original! Does anyone have any thoughts on this?
 
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