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Discussion Starter #1
I guess it's time to get serious now. So just in case anyone missed my initial post I picked this S280 up a few weeks ago. I've had a desire for a luxobarge for a while and jumped on this one warts and all as the price was too good to pass up. Time will tell if that was a major mistake. It's all part of a bigger plan

I'm in Ireland where we have a wonderful car tax system. It makes running big cars a challenge so I have an annual daily driver which is grand but not very interesting, fit that rain I like weekend cars. For the summer 6 months I have a 2003 Boxster S that I do as much of the work I can on myself. It will go off the road at the end of October and the S280 will go on for the winter weekends. I like cars from Stuttgart!!!

So, the good. Airmatic all works, engine pulls well. Gearbox relatively smooth and kicks down fine so hopefully the fundamentals are there to build on. The ride on some really bad roads is astounding!

The bad:
The interior had no love, big tear / hole in drivers seat and the leather was foul. I'd say a coal delivery truck would be cleaner inside but more on that later.
All motors in seat work but some of the buttons on the doors don't drive so that needs Investigation.
Soft close not working on some doors - can hear hissing from drivers door if closed to try and engage soft close. Closing it the old fashioned way for the moment. A good firm push.
Currently riding on Triangle tires from week 46 2011, not good. So they need to go before it goes back on the road for the winter. The car seems to be a bit vague at motorway speeds. I keep having to correct slightly. Hopefully new tires will help but might need some new front suspension arms. Thinking about Vredestein Quatrac 5 for tyres so comments welcome.
Body needs some TLC, some rust bubbles on wheel arches, boot/trunk lid and wing. Might tackle these myself as a DIY repair but the internet would suggest once you start it's a losing battle.
Also thinking Android head unit and carbon fibre wrapping the wood trim. I know, I know - sacrilege but the wood is a bit orange. I've searched high and low for pics of a grey W220 with carbon fibre and had no joy. I might just do it to save some one else the trouble.

So the immediate plan is new oil and filter. New plugs and leads. New transmission filter, oil and that funny electrical connector thing. New fuel filter. Then drive her on and see what else I discover.

Open to any style ideas or jobs I should do so please feel free to throw your ideas or there.

So here she is on the day I collected her. 162k Kms, imported from Singapore to Ireland in 2006. One owner had her for 11 years and then she bounced through several hands and was neglected.

I have sorted sorted and will add a post on that next.


Sent from my MI 9 using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #2
So the interior. Not a pretty sight with years and years of ground in dirt. Drivers seat also had a big tear and a piece of leather missing. How you mange to do that I have no idea. Maybe it was a dog or something??

Anyway it had to be tackled. I started researching colours and repair kits. I found a UK company called Colourlock. Emailed them and asked about the code. They said it was Orion Grey. I sent them some pics but they didn't come back. Couldn't blamr them really as I should have run a mile also.

So decided to ask about leather repair on the Porsche forum and I was recommended a guy in the middle of nowhere. Checked him out online and would you believe he was a Colourlock partner / detailer. Called him, sent pics agreed a price that was less than 100 more than the full repair kit would have cost.

So car was dropped off. Patches cut to try and match the perforated leather. It was repaired as good as possible. All other leather redyed, wear on steering wheel sorted. He redyed the steering buttons where the grey had need scraped off and white plastic was showing. Seats out, carpets washed. Entire interior cleaned and all leather conditioned. Now it feels like proper leather!

It's not perfect but I'm delighted with it and I think in terms of value it was outstanding.

I'll let the pics speak for themselves. I think this shows the quality of materials used, I can't imagine budget material coming back like this.


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Hi from NW Scotland,

I'm impressed with that Leather Repair, it isn't perfect, but by 'eck it's light years better than it was !!

Now, I'll give you a tip...............

It is no longer priority, but keep your eyes on EBay, Breakers etc, that Grey is a common colour in UK, and if you can, (without buying a whole interior), try and buy a good passenger seat .........................

Passenger Seats are always in much better condition than the Driver Seat.

The Leather Covers will swap from left to right, so you can carefully strip it down, (so you learn how it comes apart), get the covers off, then you'll know how to strip your Drivers Seat and fit them without breaking anything.

My Car Seat had a nasty gouge from a stud on someones jeans, and that is exactly what I did, it really is easier than you would think :grin

HTH,
 

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Out of curiosity, were those rims factory rims for the 220? I know them to be the CLK lightweight rims (W208) because they're made of aluminum and much much lighter than standard rims.

Also called stripper model rims, because the owners who buy the car usually buy the car with zero added options (hence stripper model) but oddly enough the stripper rims go for big bucks here...go figure.
 

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Out of curiosity, were those rims factory rims for the 220? I know them to be the CLK lightweight rims (W208) because they're made of aluminum and much much lighter than standard rims.

Also called stripper model rims, because the owners who buy the car usually buy the car with zero added options (hence stripper model) but oddly enough the stripper rims go for big bucks here...go figure.
Hi,

I looked at them and kinda like them, are they 16, 17 OR 18" ??

I'm thinking if 17 to 18" they would go well on my V8 R170 project, and save a bit of weight too, they'd need to be ET35 offset :devil

?????????????????
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for all the kind comments!
@Dave - I did have a look online for seats but nothing popped up that seemed decent. The interior was freaking me out and even if I had sourced a seat I'd still be facing an interior clean so when I got quoted €250 for the entire job I jumped on it. I'm more interested in spinning spanners than detailing so it made sense, plus I couldn't bare to look at it or sit in it.

The wheels are OEM and shod with 225/60 R16 of Chinas finest ditch finding rubber. Nearly 8 years old and still perfect thread, must be made of hardened plastic/rubber/metal alloy. As it will be used in the winter I'm leaning towards the all season Quadtrac 5. Not expensive, good reviews and apparently great ride and quiet.
The rims are listed as Generic 1 on https://w220.ee/Wheels_tyres details below:
17x7.5 46 225/60R16 A2204010002/B6647054
I am thinking I might just polish them up and protect them, they are a bit quirky and hey "If its not broke don't fix it!"

As the car is a Singapore model it doesn't have a sunroof (one less thing to rust) and no heated seats - that might have to be rectified. Based on the spec its fairly basic, Singapore vehicle taxes probably ensured it was minimum "stripper spec" - what a great expression, much better than the one we have here in Ireland due to our car taxes; Paddy Spec!!

For anyone interested here is the actual config as far as I can determine:
Model S 280
Type Code 220
Color (744U) BRILLIANT SILVER METALLIC
Upholstery (268A) LEATHER GREY

200A LEATHER
220 PARKTRONIC SYSTEM (PTS)
249 INSIDE AND OUTSIDE MIRROR AUTOMATIC DIMMING
268A LEATHER GREY Orion Grey??)
275 MEMORY PACKAGE (DRIVER SEAT, STRG. COL., MIRROR)
284 SELECTOR LEVER, WOOD
481 UNDERSHIELDS
524 PAINTWORK - PRESERVATION
540 ROLLER BLIND, ELECTRIC, FOR REAR WINDOW
613 HEADLAMP LEFT-HAND TRAFFIC
668 PACKAGING FOR SHIPPING VEHICLES W/ TIE-DOWN HOOKS
673 HIGH-CAPACITY BATTERY
687 MODEL YEAR ON TYPE LABEL
733 WOOD VERSION CHEST NUT
744U BRILLIANT SILVER METALLIC
753 RADIO MB AUDIO 10 CC WITH VK/RDS
761 RADIO RC W. REDUCED RANGE W/O PANIC (315 MHZ)
802 AEJ 01/1/X
836 ADDITIONAL PARTS FOR SINGAPORE
883 POWER CLOSING SYSTEM
987 BATTERY ISOLATION SWITCH FOR SHIPMENT VEHICLES
M112 V6-GASOLINE ENGINE M112
 

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You have exactly the same colour combination that the project 2000 S500 has, both exterior and interior. It's a nice match.

Finding Orion Grey interiors here in the States seems to be more of a challenge than it apparently is on your side of the pond.
 

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Hi,

I looked at them and kinda like them, are they 16, 17 OR 18" ??

I'm thinking if 17 to 18" they would go well on my V8 R170 project, and save a bit of weight too, they'd need to be ET35 offset :devil

?????????????????
CLK lightweights were usually 16". I'd have to find the specs on the W208, but pretty sure it's ET35, as OP indicates his is ET46. Might fit your car anyway.

I've been looking for those rims too, they're 8lb each as opposed to 20+ on standard rims, hence the name CLK lightweights....and they only show up on stripper model cars. :p
 

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Hey @Biped ,

I'm just about to pull the trigger on a 2002 Chalcedon Blau S500, same colour interior as yours :grin

I'll let you know if all goes to plan.

LOL, I can tell your Irish ................. Are you into Rallying by any chance ? .................... "Ditchfinders" :big laugh:

Cheers,
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Used to watch it a lot when the Circuit of Ireland was a proper circuit. Sadly costs killed it off to some small stages now but still great technical parts to it. I did think about getting into forest rallying but too expensive. I grew up on the back roads of the west of Ireland so we rallied everything we could get our hands on when I was young, surprised I made it this far at all??

I was also close to getting involved in a race car with a buddy here in the Future Classics" series but again the costs of racing are mental - even cheap racing (what a ridiculous statement). I bought the Porsche instead.

Anyway - I had a look though the diagnostics and pulled all the codes. Most are historic which I guess can be erased. The current ones I imagine are leaks on the PSE system so might just leave them alone as it would seem that the system disables the relevant outputs and they aren't critical at the moment.

So it looks like a full service, new tyres and get her ready for the winter season. Then drive her on and see what happens.

*****Error codes from scan on 08-06-2019*****

B1521-003 Historic
Exterior mirror adjustment and heating - folding feature short or open circuit

B1193-000 Historic
Component S87 / 4s1 Power locking Micro switch is closed for longer than 80 s

B1600-001 Historic
E6/6 Right exterior Mirror turn signal lamp - open circuit

B1113-001 Historic
215 Seat adjustment 3 at component N96/1 Left door control module. Faulty or sticky switch

B1521-003 Historic
Exterior mirror adjustment and heating - folding feature short or open circuit

B1193-000 Historic
Component S86 / 2s1 Power locking Micro switch is closed fort longer than 80 s

B1535-002 Historic
K18/4 Left front seat belt convenience feature solenoid - open circuit

B1438-012 Current
Over the safety time: multi outline back rest.

B1442-012 Current
Over the safety time: driver door.

B1615 Historic
Component E4e2 Right tail lamp and parking lamp in module E$ (Right tail lamp) is faulty
**This bulb failed when I collected so replaced it - guess the fault is logged as historic.
 

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Hi,

Yeah, fully agree with your diagnosis and look forward to seeing your progress getting the old gal up to scratch :wink

I have completed the purchase of that 2001 S500 to break for parts now, it is safely at Mels sons house and he's driving it up to me at the end of this week :grin
If you are needing any bitties and can't get 'em locally give me a shout.

I used to Stage Rally up here, jeez you think Ireland is dear for Motorsport, our MSA keep introducing the most stupid rules, like f.e. a Clubby Car has to have new Seats every 5 years, Harnesses, HANS Device, Helmets etc etc................

Due to 2 long term family illnesses and eventual deaths, I couldn't use my Rally Car much :(
For around 3 years all I did was one local event per year, so I reckon I sat in those seats about 15 times in all, so now if I wanted to use the Car again I had to junk them, junk the harnesses, junk my Helmet and also buy a Hans ..................

Hmmmmmmm, time to give up then, so I sold the Rally Car last December and bought an SLK :grin

I can get in the SLK any day of the week and go for a blast, and I don't need Ear Defenders :big laugh:
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Had some more time so finished piecing together the history for the car in order to determine where it's at and also decide what parts were needed. I've detailed it in a spreadsheet cos everyone loves a spreadsheet.

Overall it hasn't been totally neglected but I'd say its better to go all out now and establish a baseline mechanically. There's no rush to do it at the moment, hildasy and travel coming uo so it will be September. Looks like plugs, leads, oil, filter, gearbox filter, oil and electrical connector, air filters, cabin filters and brake fluid flush. That should have the barge back to a solid mechanical base anyway. Parts probably coming in around 350 for that. Significant service gap post financial crash but it was with the same owner who had it for 132 months so I'm guessing he had it checked annually as he seemed diligent about it but who knows.

Interior has been sorted and is now a very nice place, head unit upgrade would be nice but not sure if I want to throw the cash at that. I might leave it and spend the dosh on 4 new Vredestein Quatrac 5. They have good reviews for winter driving and are also rated as being quiet in keeping with the barge thinking.

I will also have a crack at some of the rust bubbles, from reading many seem to say leave them alone as once you start you never stop but it would tidy it up a lot. Headlights need refurbishing, particularly the nearside (drivers may have been replaced due to the difference) but all that's minimal material cost just elbow grease and time.

I intend to run it as the weekend cruiser over the winter when the Boxster is off the road. I doubt whatever I spend on it will ever be recouped if sold so its really for my comfort and pleasure along with maybe learning something along the way.

Anyone with any experience please throw in your 2c in case I am missing something obvious. History and pic of most OEM looking Ali express head unit below - maybe that should go to a vote.



 

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Hi,

ERISIN Android is one of the best upgrades you can do, together with at least Reverse Camera and TPMS upgrades.
 

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I haven't tried the Mekede, but yeah, Erisin's Android unit has so far been a good performer. Also considering trying out Seicane's, given some of the reviews.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Summers pretty much over and normal service has been resumed after hols, travel, etc so time to start getting stuck into the big girl to have her ready for end of October.

After work yesterday I ordered plugs, oil, oil filter, air filters, fuel filter, cabin filters and serpentine belt. Still need to get the gearbox service kit and debating whether to order from MB or elsewhere. MB would probably be 50 more expensive for the oil filter and gasket.

I was in China a few weeks back so got the locals onto the job to source an android head unit. They did and it's about 100 cheaper than AliExpress for that mekede unit (works out aroun €150) so that should arrive in a few weeks. Fingers crossed it's OK.

I'd say the drivers headlight was replaced at some stage so the passenger was very dull. Picked up a Meguiars Headlight restoration kit in Florida when I was there on hols so tried that last night. Bit of elbow grease needed but definitely an improvement but not perfect. So an OK result for $30 and an hours hardship.

She has been parked now for 2 or 3 months and no sag / drop on suspension so that's good. Downside though is she's not level left to right. 17mm lower on drivers side but back to front is fine. I'll be starting her up for the service jobs so will cycle the suspension a few times and inspect the level sensor arms for any damage.

I did notice the front was a little vague on motorways like it had a tendency to wander a little. I'm wondering if the front end needs a refresh. Might make more sense to sort that and then get the suspension calibrated when its all nice and tight.

Any pointers on what to check, I haven't heard any knocking on speed bumps but then maybe they don't do that like a traditional coil set up. There's a good MB indy close by so might give them a call and get an idea of budget costs. Must have a look at the readings also on the iCarsoft and see if I can see the voltages
 

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These cars all need front end control arms and ball joints as normal wear Items, only buy lemfoerder or mb branded parts as others are junk
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
Thanks for that.

Just did some checking online for costs and came up with the following basket. Don't know if I'd need the thrust arm or torque struts. The site calls them control arms same as they do the with the actual control arms. Just wonder if I'm going to do it and be taking it all apart is is it worth replacing them at the same time.

From reading the wiki and how to I think I need some bolts also but not 100%. One vid said to note wear and reinstall them the same way so as not to need to realign but it probably should be done anyway.
 

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Three years ago, I did the project 2000 S500's front suspension. It got everything--thrust arms, lower control arms, tie rods (inner and outer), ball joints, and upper control arms. Also did the AMRmatic springs as well. Every bit of that front suspension is new. It is definitely worth it.

Here's what I mean.


And the importance of doing the Upper Control Arms as well.


She has been driving it since December of 2016. She loves how the car handles.

The other W220's have all gotten the same treatment, and it has made a marked difference in how they feel on the road.

All suspension parts I used, BTW, were Lemfoerder, one of currently three OE manufacturers for Mercedes-Benz. The other two are TRW and, more recently, Rein.
 
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