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'76 1300L,HE351CW,H15P Winches,Konis,Hydraulics,All Gears,10mm Plungers,Aftercooler,Lots of Littles
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Discussion Starter #1
So, I want to have beadlocks on my truck for 2 reason:

1. I hate loosing a bead.

2. I anticiapte running the US Mil Surp tires for the forseeable future, they need to be run at low pressures to perform well.

The UNIMOG 11" rim is more susceptable to debeading with these tires than it should be because the mil surp tires were designed for a 10" wide rim.

Easiest (also lowest cost) solution might be to put some MRAP wheels on it.

I can either:

A. Machine up a set of adapter plates to connect the 10 bolt wheels to my 6 bolt hubs.

or

B. Buy some 10 bolt hubs.

Anyone have any thoughts? Anyone want to go in on a batch of adapters to lower the pc price?

C.
 

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85' U1300L Holset Turbo VA A/C, 66' Propane 404.1 rock mog, 1975 416 Doka, G500, Volvo C303
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Cheapest solution is to weld in safety beads to your existing rims. It's an easy job depending on the approach you take.

Other than that, I would be largely inclined to make new hubs with the correct lug size and spacing. This would be easy and allow you to carry a stock hub in the truck incase you are with some other mogs and have multiple tire failures.
 

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U1450L DOKA
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9,589 Posts
What about machining out the center of the 10 hole rims, and welding in a replacement
Center with 6 holes ?
 

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'76 1300L,HE351CW,H15P Winches,Konis,Hydraulics,All Gears,10mm Plungers,Aftercooler,Lots of Littles
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2,674 Posts
Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
I thought about doing that, but the adapter plates seem like almost as good an idea. Lots of Duece guys are running them, and seem happy....

Also, would like to leave the wheels and hubs unmolested so that if I decide this is a mistake I can sell...

C.
 

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1983 U1200 (parted out), 1979 U1700L
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891 Posts
I have a set of 5 steel MRAP wheels that I picked up a few months back. My plan is to mod the wheels to fit my 8 bolt U1700L.

Here are a few pics of the wheels I have, research has show they are off the 6X6 MRAP vehicles. Same wheels Imjustdave has on his 1250.
 

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1983 U1200 (parted out), 1979 U1700L
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U-406/416
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688 Posts
There's a much easier way than all the options suggested above and I've seen it done many times. Get a metal shop to cut you out new wheel centers that have the correct lug pattern also the same bolt pattern to the beadlock bolts on the outside, this now bolts on using the existing beadlock studs. I saw this done and it is by far the cleanest install.

The benefits are: there is no welding required, no extra bolts needed just use what you got. If you can find on extreme 4x4 TV show they did the same when they built a bobbed duce tow truck.
 

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85' U1300L Holset Turbo VA A/C, 66' Propane 404.1 rock mog, 1975 416 Doka, G500, Volvo C303
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5,035 Posts
There's a much easier way than all the options suggested above and I've seen it done many times. Get a metal shop to cut you out new wheel centers that have the correct lug pattern also the same bolt pattern to the beadlock bolts on the outside, this now bolts on using the existing beadlock studs. I saw this done and it is by far the cleanest install.

The benefits are: there is no welding required, no extra bolts needed just use what you got. If you can find on extreme 4x4 TV show they did the same when they built a bobbed duce tow truck.
The material thickness needed for this on a mog application would make the wheels weight a ton. Even weldin in the right pattern would be a poor choice unless you have a properly formed center made.
 

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'76 1300L,HE351CW,H15P Winches,Konis,Hydraulics,All Gears,10mm Plungers,Aftercooler,Lots of Littles
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2,674 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Will 10 bolt 2 pc axle hubs mount onto a 3 pc axle? That might work out well...

C.
 

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4Sale: 230G, U1200 Ag, 1017A, lots of MB cars, Volvo c303, 416 raildoka, LR D110 TDi
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1,217 Posts
No, the two piece 8/10 bolt wheel hubs won't interchange with the 6 bolt ones, the bolt circle and center are too large, iirc.

Cheers,
Ben
 

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unimog 435 1300l doka 1986
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Sold .....1987 U1250 Unimog
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Dave,

do you have any pics of the wheels from the inside, just wondering how the adaptor plate is welded in?
And close up shots of he weld on the outside?

thanks

I just uploaded 3 additional photos. I didn't do the wheels but it looks like the 10 lug was cut out and then a new plate was welded in as you see a little bigger then the new hole and then welded on. I know there is also some weld beads on the inside as well. Sorry I don't have any details on the inside but I do know the adapter that was installed goes up to the outer ring of bolts but they are not part of attaching the wheel and the bolt slips in between the new plate and the radius of the bend in the wheel from the factory. Basically there is about an inch of overlap...

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/H_NtlX7s1705ITR4o6d1StMTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=directlink

In terms of going from 8 lug to 10 lug I know someone in the past purchased the hub but for some reason I think it wouldn't fit on even though it looked like it should have. I think the cost of shipping alone would more then pay for machine work.

I have driven around plowing snow with these wheels so I have no worries about them. about 22K lbs on the scale. I do think going wider would be better if I were to do something like this again.
 

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'76 1300L,HE351CW,H15P Winches,Konis,Hydraulics,All Gears,10mm Plungers,Aftercooler,Lots of Littles
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Removing the damn run flats....

]

C.

Trevor, maybe you can make it embed? Frick if I know how...
 

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1982 406 Unimog Expedition Camper, 1999 G500, 1995 Land Rover Defender 90 SW
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142 Posts
Anyone know the how to tell the difference between the MRAP steel wheels and Aluminum? I thought if they're Hutchinson they are aluminum?

Also, considering these for U500. From what I can gather these will bolt right up, reduce unsprung weight by 364 lbs (all 4 tires).

Any downside other than having to remove the run flat?
 

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'02 UNIMOG® UGN. until its deleted or passes scrutineering.
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You can see the difference after you drive over a mine.
Mine Resistant Ambush Protected.

The aluminum allows for more armouring
Lighter for air transport
supposed better fuel economy
more pay load (less unsprung weight)

If you aren't planning to tip toe through enemy fire, you wont need the extra armouring.
If you load heavy a lot, it will be helpful
They will smoothen out the ride because of less unsprung weight.
they are a nice looking wheel

The run flats make good sense as do bead locks
service can be done with hand tools
and work well with ctis

they aint cheap

l took this from their site
 
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