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1987 560SEL Astral Silver/Silver blue leather,Michelins,SONY
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821 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Seems silly to ask, but how do I KNOW my SLS is even working. Since getting car back from MB dealer in Fargo I notice reservoir tank less than half full and I see no evidence car moves up down or sideways when started up. Ride is STILL hard and bonk-bonk over sharp edge despite replacement of many bushings and subfram "struts".
Seems it should be easy to tell when it working and ON.:confused:
 

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82 500SEC
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2,323 Posts
Those accumulators (air cells) have a life span of around 60k miles. If they're done the rear suspension gets very stiff. If you've been driving with busted accumulators, you can damage the hydro shocks. The accumulators are about $100/each. And you need two. The shocks cost about $400/each.

Fluid should be changed every 30k miles.

If you're having a clunking sound but no extra harshness, its likely the bottom ball joints on the hydro shocks. The ball joints are not sold separately anymore. Well you could get them but it would cost just as much as the entire shock.

The trailing arm bushings can also cause a bit of clunking.

Have no idea what "subframe strusts" are.

A loss of fluid in the SLS reservoir with no signs of leakage is often a sign that the accumulators have ruptured and filled up with fluid.

The SLS is well worth it, but can be an expensive item to maintain.
 

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1987 560SEL Astral Silver/Silver blue leather,Michelins,SONY
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821 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Okay, thanks. All the things you mentioned were SUPPOSED to be done at the dealership. They have accumulators checked as "OK" and I think they are wrong. I'm not convinced they know how to check them.When I took the car in the hydraulic reservoir was at proper level-it is now way below the mid level on tank. I have no idea what "subframe struts " are either!
I am concluding two things: The Fargo Benz dealer employs people who do not know what they are talking about and secondly, I just got screwed to the tune of $3500.
Oh! Wait! The harzard flashers DO work now. Will try the phone again in the morning but I'll be honest with ya, I may just sell this car and go back to being a non-Benz guy like I was for a couple years. Not sure I can take it any more. Ha!!
 

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1989 560SEC
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2,065 Posts
To verify that the system is working, you can manually raise and lower the car by actuating the height valve. It's located near the transaxle. You will need to disconnect the eye bolt from the valve arm. Next move the arm up should raise the car, move the arm down should lower it. The engine has to be running to generate pressure. It's best to drive around the block to pressurize the system. It's a very easy job you can do in 10 minutes once you get the hang of it.

PS: Do this with the wheels on the ground. Don't jack it up because you need weight on the SLS rams.

Mike
 

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1986/1990 W126
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21,879 Posts
Sorry to hear but you may have fallen victim to a rubbish dealer. Very common, i wouldnt trust one with my car, or be able to afford it.
I hope you get it sorted soon though. I'm sure someone else had a noise like yours makes and its in the threads somewhere.
 

· Premium Member
560SEC, 190E, Frontier, 240Z
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1,334 Posts
Once the accumulators fail (one or both) it will flood the "air-side" with juice, stop working and I think the level of the bottle would go down. The bottle could be refilled and lie about what has happened.

If you go over bumps and the rear end bounces up and down - Boing/boing one or more are toast. My SEC only has 2 which I replaced and the bouncy-bouncy stopped. Do 4 doors have 5 of them?
 

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82 500SEC
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Some of the AMGs had one at each wheel. But the regular 560sel has just 2 (in the rear).

Rolls Royce also tried 4 (back in the 70s), then later just decided to put only 2 (in the rear) because they found that the rear suspension was doing most of work.
 

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560SEC, 190E, Frontier, 240Z
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My bad.
I remember reading that some had it on all 4 corners plus one extra chamber.
No idea where I came up with that.
 

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1990 560SEL, Optimus Black Pearl baby !
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554 Posts
but I'll be honest with ya, I may just sell this car and go back to being a non-Benz guy like I was for a couple years. Not sure I can take it any more. Ha!!
Not all dealers are bad but its tough to find a good one for our cars these days.

I've been a owner of classic MB for a number of years now. I can tell you that because these cars are now a well used car, they will have items that need sorting out. Your comments to give up are not surprising. Many a Benz owner has been there. These cars will require servicing/maintenance from a fastidious owner to truly enjoy their full potential. This is the tough part. The question is...do you skimp on some maintenance now and just enjoy the car
or spendup and have a trailer queen?

A strategy that has worked for me is as follows:

1. Pre purchase self inspection and an inspection by a mechanic that knows the early Benz's well.
2. If you have already bought (which you have) then get a mechanic that knows Benz's well to go over it. From this inspection you will end up with a list.
3. Refer to the factory service history (if the car with any) and also check the factory servicing schedule.
4. If none are available you just have to assume that things may not have been done on time or at all.
5. Develop a plan of servicing and maintenance. Do the easy bits first. Obviously attend to items that could cost more down the line if not attended to. Examples are your SLS. This system in the car provides enjoyment if working well. Another example is tyres. If you are looking for replacement tyres on standard wheels, think about whether you will go to different wheels in the future. It maybe worthwhile getting those wheels now since you may already be purchasing tyres anyway.
6. Stick to the plan but dont be afraid to sway a little bit to allow for slight modifications.
7. For me these cars are long term ownership. But things can happen that may force a sale. This is another reason to keep your classic Benz in tip top shape.
8. If you can, try and do some stuff on the car yourself. These cars are built on very good basic engineering principles. Regular servicing and maintenance is part of the design. The w126 was designed to last a long long time. An example is - you can buy a compact Honda cheap, run it for a few years with little or no maintenance and then offload it. The Honda will never offer the same enjoyment as an early Benz though. How many Japanese cars over 20 years do you see on the roads today? How many over 25-30 years on the roads today? The engineering principles of the German and Japanese were different back in the day.
9. Part of your plan should be to put away something a week for yearly maintenance. I try and put away $USD1.5 - 2k per year. Its a lot but over time this will even out. It will cost more in the first couple of years to get the car to where it should be. They have lasted 20 years and this is why they usually catch out a new early Benz owner.
10. Look at your w126 as an investment that you can enjoy. That 20k you may have in the sharemarket will only cause you stress most of the time. The w126 is an investment you can enjoy every day if desired. The old saying goes, if you want the best you have to pay for it. My belief is that we are very lucky to be still able to enjoy these cars. A brand new luxury Lexus/Merc just cannot offer this much fun.


If the car has a lot of issues, then it may be better to sell it unless you have really deep pockets or dont mind the car not being able to be used for long long periods of time.

Hope this helps. BW is a great resource. Give BW a go before deciding to give up on your w126. Dedicated w126 ownership is truly sublime.
 

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1987 560SEL Astral Silver/Silver blue leather,Michelins,SONY
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Nice post and I truly appreciate it. I agree totally with what you say. Owned my first Benz in 1963 so I'm no stranger to their quirks and the joy of owning/driving a fine car. However I have sped right past 70, my hands are not working as well as they used to, got artificial parts and others that don't work all that great so any serious hands-on work by me is out of the question. I had high hopes for this car and no delusions about the costs etc. of owning and maintaining it. But If I simply cannot find anybody to take care of it whats the point? I simply do not need the aggravation at this point in my life. It is a solid car, no rust, good glass, great interior engine purrs and goes like hell....a great piece of engineering....as we all know.
I'm going to think about it but right now my inclination is to cut my losses and hand it on to someone else.
We'll see. And thanks again for a nice post.
 

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2004 SL500, 1993 S420, 1990 420 SEL, 1985 500SE, 1994 Toyota Supra Aerotop
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Nice post and I truly appreciate it. I agree totally with what you say. Owned my first Benz in 1963 so I'm no stranger to their quirks and the joy of owning/driving a fine car. However I have sped right past 70, my hands are not working as well as they used to, got artificial parts and others that don't work all that great so any serious hands-on work by me is out of the question. I had high hopes for this car and no delusions about the costs etc. of owning and maintaining it. But If I simply cannot find anybody to take care of it whats the point? I simply do not need the aggravation at this point in my life. It is a solid car, no rust, good glass, great interior engine purrs and goes like hell....a great piece of engineering....as we all know.
I'm going to think about it but right now my inclination is to cut my losses and hand it on to someone else.
We'll see. And thanks again for a nice post.

If you want, you have the right (at least in Australia) to see the service report and see what the actual time spent on each part of the service. They normally charge a standard fee for each task, but my mechanic friend says they should also keep a record of actual time spent. Then you should be able to see where the money did (or didn't) go.

Just as an aside, I'm in the middle of renewing my SLS system, a bit of work, but hard to imagine it costing that much. What about asking members here for the service manual parts required for whatever you're needing to have done, and hand it to a trusted independent mechanic? That way you can probably get a quality job done at a good price. I'll help out to start with, see the attached PDFs. Make sure they use actual MB parts for the SLS too. I've seen FEBI parts cost more than the originals.

I get the impression that a lot of dealerships workshops would not be in business if they weren't relying on their quality of servicing alone.
 

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1991 560SEL Black with gray
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251 Posts
SLS - does it have springs?

I had a good amount of work done on my SLS because a strut was leaking. I see springs back there, does that make sense? I can't notice my car rise up or down when i turn it on/off. Shouldn't my mercedes mechanic have known whether to take them off if they aren't supposed to be there?
 

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1987 560SEL Astral Silver/Silver blue leather,Michelins,SONY
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821 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
The springs you see are supposed to be there...at least they are THERE on my 560SEL too. Rams run up the middle of them and have bushings (bumpers) at the top and bottom. I believe my TOP bushings are bad and that is why I STILL get a knock when going over abrupt edges. Car rides smoothly on good roads or streets. The SLS system provides many temptations for just dumping the entire thing and going with regular shocks and springs. I am not sure that might not be the way I end up going if I have to spend much more time (money) trying to fix this.
 

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Smoke Silver '87 560SEC, Black Pearl '87 560SEL
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4,722 Posts
The only way I've been sure that the accumulators are functional is to depressurize the system and remove the large flexible line on the front of the accumulator. If a phillips screwdriver only goes an inch or two into the accumulator and you can't push it any more in, the accumulator is fine. If the screwdriver can move the bladder or goes in five or six inches, it's blown. Once the system is depressurized, check both accumulators.

VERY low tech, but it is the ONLY way I've been sure in the last fifteen years of working on these cars to know for sure. To me, everything else is a guess of one magnitude or another.

If anyone knows another way to check the accumulators, I'd be glad to hear it.
 

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MB 1985 W126 300SEL, 1991 MB W124 260E, 2007 MB W209 CLK200, 1999 Skyline R34 GTT Veilside,
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342 Posts
I hope to go back to SLS someday too...sure miss the ride quality when all 6 adults in it. I notice after changing to stock springs & shocks without removing the accumulators & pump (300SEL share the same pump with the power steering), the fluid always run out completely after just a short drive. Funny thing is there is no leak whatsoever.
 

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2004 SL500, 1993 S420, 1990 420 SEL, 1985 500SE, 1994 Toyota Supra Aerotop
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764 Posts
The only way I've been sure that the accumulators are functional is to depressurize the system and remove the large flexible line on the front of the accumulator. If a phillips screwdriver only goes an inch or two into the accumulator and you can't push it any more in, the accumulator is fine. If the screwdriver can move the bladder or goes in five or six inches, it's blown. Once the system is depressurized, check both accumulators.

VERY low tech, but it is the ONLY way I've been sure in the last fifteen years of working on these cars to know for sure. To me, everything else is a guess of one magnitude or another.

If anyone knows another way to check the accumulators, I'd be glad to hear it.

How about this way? :)

32-520 - Checking pressure reservoir
View attachment 32-520.pdf

Here's some more helpful info:

32-501 Leveling Control Functional Description
(too large to attach)

32-510 Checking Spring Struts
View attachment 32-510.pdf

32-530 Checking pressure oil pump and level controller
View attachment 32-530.pdf

32-610 R&R Spring Struts
View attachment 32-610.pdf

32-670 R&R level controller
View attachment 32-670.pdf
 
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