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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 1991 300E. I've been dealing with Alll the electrical problems . It started when my ABS and SRS lights came on . Since then I have .
*Replaced the altenator.
*Replaced the VOP.
*Checked the radio wireing .
*Inspected the wireing harneses.
*Replaced all the fuses .
*Replace the battery with a Optima red top.
Now I don't have all the charging isues . However my SRS light remains on. My battery still drains out . I also have new problems.
*My tach is jumpy .
*the car dies for no reason.
*Car runs rough at times .
*Blower motor don't work.
Does anyone have a Ideal what could be wrong or what I possibly missed?Or what I possibly have done wrong or forgot to do ? All help from the fourm is much appriciated and put to use I'm ussualy a ford guy but wanted something different . Now im starting to regret it . Well i hope some one out there can help me . Thanks in advance for the great advice.

-bobby :newbie:
 

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Some of the codes can be read through the built in LED and pushbutton. Others require only a home built code reader using about $10 of Radio Shack parts. Try a search.
 

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If you have one, it will be on the diagnostic connector. My 94 E320 has one, but my 93 300E does not, with a 91, you may be inthe same boat. If so, build the reader. You need an LED, a switch, and some wire. AS Deanyel said, do a search and you will fiond a wealth of info on it.
 

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A 91 has a 16 pin connector, near the battery. So does a 93.
I meant that the '93 does not have a push button, not that it does not have a diagnostic connector.

bobbyboura

If you don't have the push button LED built in, you need to build a code reader. The thread that has the instructions also has the code list. If you search this forum on code reader you will find it.

Greg
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Well I used a test light on the 16 pin this is what I got.
#3 solid
#6 flashing
#7 solid
Does any one know what they mean or how there coded? I'm not good with enghine elctrical all help is much appriceated
 

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To be perfectly frank your test results are not yet coherent. When doing the test properly the light (led or tester light) will flash at you, and you then count the number of flashes. One flash means no fault on that pin. You are primarily interested in the output of pins 3 and 14.
 

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I had a similar issue, too.

My warning lights started to glow dim the other day, then my battery would die on my 1990 300E. I had similar issues as you. I'm thinking battery or alternator. But wait, both my battery and alternator were replaced about 2 years ago. That didn't make sence to me. Then I noticed that I have an oil leak at the front part of my engine and its been dipping down to the alternator. At 248,000 miles on the engine, I figured that the oil probably messed up the alternator. So I replaced the valve cover gasket, cam seal and gasket to the cam cover. Then I removed the alternator and cleaned around the area. Installed a new alternator, connected everything back up, then started the car. Sure enough, my alternator was bad, but the oil leak from the valve and cam cover was the root cause of my troubles.

Hope this information is useful.
Shop cost: about $541. DIY cost: about $120-$170 and about 2-3 hours.
Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #15
code results from the 16pin
PIN 3
*13 intake air temp is illogical
*14 Vehical speed signal read by cfi controll modual is illogical
*31 intermittent contact in engine coolant temp sensor circit
PIN14
*11 a/c compressor engagement signal missing
*13 excessive ac compressor clutch slipage
PIN 6
* 3 driver air bag squib
* 8 voltage supply interupted
How do i fix these codes?
 
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