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· Cruise Control
'87 300TD Myna 7mm pump and HX30 /'89 Vanagon TDI 12mm pump and GT2052
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I'm suggesting that you sign up over there. They're focused on diesel performance stuff, and would know more about that setup than anyone here. I believe the IC is the work of a guy who goes by the moniker shadowmaker.

If I had to guess, I'd say that the IC is custom-made to fit that location, as is the radiator for the coolant. The rest is probably just standard L2A pump/temp switch hardware.
 

· Banned
Your mom
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That looks like a clusterf**k. Straight water injection works well for me to reduce intake temp. I'm using the washer tank and pump through a misting nozzle straight into the intake elbow ahead of the compressor triggered at 6 or 7 PSI (can't remember exactly at the moment). I fill it up once every thousand miles or so. I should do a writeup on it one of these days.
 

· Cruise Control
'87 300TD Myna 7mm pump and HX30 /'89 Vanagon TDI 12mm pump and GT2052
Joined
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52,336 Posts
You couldn't carry enough water/methanol on board for a daily driver, given the amount of fuel he's pumping through that engine. L2A is a proven winner for performance diesels. A2A and liquid misting work just fine for stock and lightly modified engines
 

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Your mom
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Actually the washer tank is more thank enough for about 1000 miles. I datalogged intake temp and EGT extensively using my old MS1 system. The temp stays under 120f until boost goes past 7psi. The only exception is when its been heat soaked with the engine off. You're only producing more than 7psi under acceleration or hill climbs. It takes very little water to cause a huge reduction in EGT and IAT.

An air/air intercooler is essentially useless under 30mph and and air/water would take a lot of testing to be made effective. You certainly wouldn't want to position it above the exhaust as pictured.

Stuff an temp sensor into the intake (any 1980s Bosch intake sensor will fit the spare port on the side of the manifold) and take it for a spin. You'll be surprised how little the temp changes in normal driving. I think whats happening is the heavy cast aluminum intake and cross over pipe functions as a heat sink to smooth out short term temp spikes. A variation on that idea.
http://www.autospeed.com/cms/A_110772/article.html
The MB engineers knew what they were doing when they omitted the intercooler on these engines. You only really need additional intake cooling under very heavy load.

MB eventually fitted a small intercooler on the E290 OM602 and that was mostly to keep EGR workable.
 

· Registered
91 Benz 300D
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341 Posts
That looks like a clusterf**k. Straight water injection works well for me to reduce intake temp. I'm using the washer tank and pump through a misting nozzle straight into the intake elbow ahead of the compressor triggered at 6 or 7 PSI (can't remember exactly at the moment). I fill it up once every thousand miles or so. I should do a writeup on it one of these days.
Have any photos? Sounds like a simple effective solution.
 

· Cruise Control
'87 300TD Myna 7mm pump and HX30 /'89 Vanagon TDI 12mm pump and GT2052
Joined
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52,336 Posts
With the stock 5.5mm elements in these pumps, you don't need extreme measures to keep EGTs managed, even if you turn up the full load screw. A small A2A or misting system should suffice. I have the complete misting system I picked up from a longtime member here who had it on his 603 with a turned up pump. He extensively data-logged and found very minimal reductions in IAT or EGT. I had intended to use it to augment the A2A system on my 606, but that engine is going L2A and the mister will be used on my TDI Vanagon, which is also getting an L2A system. The nice thing about L2A is that it can work at idle to minimize heat soak and is more flexible, since you can use multiple speed fans. The engine in the original pic more than likely has 7mm or 8mm elements in the pump, and it absolutely needs all the IC capacity it can get to keep EGTs within a manageable level.
 

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money pits of various forms
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That looks like a clusterf**k. Straight water injection works well for me to reduce intake temp. I'm using the washer tank and pump through a misting nozzle straight into the intake elbow ahead of the compressor triggered at 6 or 7 PSI (can't remember exactly at the moment). I fill it up once every thousand miles or so. I should do a writeup on it one of these days.
Yes, yes you should. This is my next project for the Arduino. Mine will trigger at temp not psi.
 

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money pits of various forms
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5,920 Posts
Went thru all the links, none are of this picture.
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Given that we have 5000 threads and 50000 posts I am incredulous. I am also awestruck my little board has gone so far. That picture is certainly in a thread on the board. You may also find Index of /images/benz interesting.

Now that I think about, this pic is not in the intercooler thread. Ray keeps pushing me to go to AWIC but I think I just really need to go to bar and plate. What I really need to do is measure boost before and after instead of just after. Yet another project for the arduino. Plan on simply feeding boost into a switchover valve and just switching between the two at a fixed load to see. No need for more $30 sensors (even though I now have a few).
 

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money pits of various forms
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Are you adjusting flow rate based on engine load? That would be excellent. Mine is a simple ON/OFF.
No, I had simply planned on and off at 1150*.
 

· Cruise Control
'87 300TD Myna 7mm pump and HX30 /'89 Vanagon TDI 12mm pump and GT2052
Joined
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52,336 Posts
No, I had simply planned on and off at 1150*.
If you are going with an Arduino, then I'd use either pressure or temp to control progressive flow rates; e.g. low temp/press small jets and then high temp/press larger jets. I don't think you want to wait until 1150F before mitigating, 'cause EGTs under load drop much slower than unloaded. Perhaps your part of GA is flat, but around here we have lots of prolonged grades, and those are EGT magnets. There's nothing I hate worse than having to back off the throttle on a hill 'cause my EGTs are spiking into the danger zone

 
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