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1990 190E 2.6,.... 1998 ML320, 2005 ML500SE
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And to add to all of this, today I went down to the dealership to buy some Mobil 1 for for 2010 E-350, and guess what, now they are selling Mobil 1 "ESP Formula M" 5w-40 as the MB 229.51 spec approved oil. I thought ESP was for diesel engines but low and behold the rear of the bottle says " exceeded the demanding requirements of MB 229.51 spec in GASOLINE and diesel vehicles.

The good news was that the dealer only charges 30 cent more than the auto stores for regular Mobil 1 oil.
That oil is on the list above from bimmerdriver.
Mike
 

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'00 w163 55 amg (sold) '02 w208 55 amg '03 w163 350 inspiration
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711 Posts
0-40 is spot on. all i've ever used in my AMG...per recommendations on the bottle and this forum. just make sure you use fleece filter.
 

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1999 Ml430
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351 Posts
I always used Mobil 1 0w 40 but I noticed lately that the valves are ticking more and more after startup. I just passed 100k miles an I was under the impression that 0w 40 is moved faster to the valves on a cold engine because it is "thinner"? Always did my oil change on schedule sometimes way earlier then 10k miles.
I am at a loss why the engine would developed the ticking in the first place with the MB recommended oil..
 

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1999 ML320
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450 Posts
I always used Mobil 1 0w 40 but I noticed lately that the valves are ticking more and more after startup. I just passed 100k miles an I was under the impression that 0w 40 is moved faster to the valves on a cold engine because it is "thinner"? Always did my oil change on schedule sometimes way earlier then 10k miles.
I am at a loss why the engine would developed the ticking in the first place with the MB recommended oil..
Wiley430,
What brand and grade of gas are you using? Do you go to same gas station?
It may be the fuel rather then lubrication.
Bernard
 

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1999 Ml430
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351 Posts
Wiley430,
What brand and grade of gas are you using? Do you go to same gas station?
It may be the fuel rather then lubrication.
Bernard
I always use Shell Premium or BP Premium, three different gas station in my area. The fuel filter, pump and the lines where upgraded to the new ones 2 years ago.
 

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1999 ML320
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450 Posts
I thought maybe you are using low grade gasoline.
I'm still on the original small filter and pump at 174K miles on them.
I'm not sure how bad knock sensor in the engine will act. Maybe the ticking noise is comming from something else, not the valves. I believe all engines are little louder on cold start then at full warm up. Take a stethoscope to it and go over different parts of the engine, if you can. Is the noise still there after fresh oil change?
Bernard
 

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1999 Ml430
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351 Posts
Thank you for your help Bernard!
I don't want to hijack this threat so I hope people will forgive me, am new at this. I just started the cold engine with the hood open and I hear the ticking along the valve cover, more on the driver side then the passenger side. To me it sounds like valves tapping happily. When the engine idles down from the initial start I can hear the driver side is ticking louder then the other side. I just did an oil change 2000 miles ago and I didn't pay attention if the engine was quieter then.
Very irritating, I didn't have a problem for 2 years now, the dealer here sucks and the independent I found is not much better.
 

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Purple Moderator
99 ML430, 00 ML320, 05 E500 4matic Wagon
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21,749 Posts
There is a possibility that if you here it on more on the driver's side it is part that
is related to the throttle actuator. I can't remember for sure. I will have to ask the
guys in the shop on Friday. I do know for a fact there is a part near the firewall that
starts ticking on some of these and when replaced the noise is gone.
 

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163 Posts
The manuals came with my 98, 99 and 05 ML show 10w-40 is good for temperature down to -4F degree.

Lately, MB was sued by class action because of oil deposit issue in the engine (I received some kind of free oil change offer from MB... I can' t remember it, since I have not use it yet!!). Actually even Toyota has same problem. In the industry people know it is the design issues.

Since temperature could have big difference among different regions; to avoid livability MB decides to change oil specification to 0w-40 to cover whole world at the cost of those people living in the warm region (0w-40 is much more expensive). Actually many any car companies doing the same thing now.

Our family used to have a 98 ML320 for business, it was sold at 210,000 miles. It only uses WalMart 10w-40 dino oil every 5000 miles after 2nd oil change. It burned no oil between changes when the car was sold. By the way, we live in Georgia, the temperature can go done to 8F degree in the winter night.

Read you owner manual and find the oil good for your climate. MB spec 229.3 is one way to avoid livability from the class action lawyer.

I have to confess, after 2 years owning that 98 ML, we start to use 87 grade gas. I can't tell any difference by using the low grade gas even people claims the gas mileage could go down. I think by doing that we save at least $3,000 in fuel cost. By the way, ML engine is very reliable, price is right. Even people complains ML troubles, my experience is that ML has less issues then all the E classes we own. and that is why we still have 2 in the drive way.

I can spend money either to make those oil company CEO wealthier or use the same money to help people who really needs it. I picked the 2nd option.


If it says Mobil 1 0W40 synthetic, it is correct. The oil that I have used now for 150,000 kms is Castrol Syntec 5w40 which meets MB spec 229.3 which is called for in the 2002 ML320 manual. I can't imagine that there would be any difference between a 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001 or 2002 ML320 engine - they would all take the same oil. The small service manual that came with the car will give a list of the oils that meet the MB spec for the ML.

BTW, when draining the oil on the ML320, the freaking oil shoots out all over the right front wheel so be prepared to clean up a mess! This is why I don't change my own oil - it just ain't worth it.
 

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1999 ML320
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450 Posts
"I have to confess, after 2 years owning that 98 ML, we start to use 87 grade gas. I can't tell any difference by using the low grade gas even people claims the gas mileage could go down. I think by doing that we save at least $3,000 in fuel cost. By the way, ML engine is very reliable, price is right. Even people complains ML troubles, my experience is that ML has less issues then all the E classes we own. and that is why we still have 2 in the drive way"

I left my ML for few days with my wife and on the way to Christmas dinner I noticed full fuel tank, so I kindly asked her where she pumped it up because I always go to Costco for the Premium. Her reply was Marathon and I go I hope the premium and she say no, just regular 87. I thought I will jump out of it at 65mph! To my surprise car ran and idled very smooth, throttle respond was good and everything was very normal. She never writes the mileage on the receipt so I'm not sure how economic was that gas tank.
I topped it of with premium at 1/4 tank but I was wondering how many people drive on 87 grade gas. Gas mileage is worst in this cold weather anyway but did anyone play game with switching back and fort between regular and premium to see real savings? Maybe the EGR system have to work harder with 87 gasoline?
 

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" I was wondering how many people drive on 87 grade gas. Gas mileage is worst in this cold weather anyway but did anyone play game with switching back and fort between regular and premium to see real savings? Maybe the EGR system have to work harder with 87 gasoline?
I did. I used to have drove between Atlanta and New Jersey couple times per year. I did try both premium and 87 grade. By carefully calculated the mpg I can't tell any different at all on all the cars we own. Human factor, weather, temperature, traffic.....those affect mpg more.

By the way, I also have VW EUROVAN Camper with VR6, and Volvo V90, E320 4Matic. Manufactures all recommend premium. Since I can't tell the different, they all on 87 diet for many years, and none of them has any problem at all. Volvo has ~220,000 miles on the clock, and it has been using 87 for the pass 200,000 miles. I don't think any of my car will break because of the gas that we have been used. If it does, I just buy another one!!
 
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