[PCar SBO]

On a scale from 1 - 10 how difficult and involved is it to replace the driver's side motor mount on a V8. I am guessing I get in there from the wheel well after taking the inner liner off?

I noticed the car made a slight knock when accelerating from a standstill with a little vigor. Same when staying on the brake and getting slightly on the accelerator.

A friend inspected the underside while I did the test staying on the brake and noticed the entire power train moves. It the driver's side that comes up as the engine sees the load against the brake. I am thinking of doing both sides while I am in there.

Thanks for any insight,
Ingo

 

[art_arev]

there, it will give you the idea

 

[PCar SBO]

Thanks for the PDF - now I see how its done according to factory procedure. Is there a way to use a floor jack instead of an engine hoist to partially lift the engine and get the mount out of that way. Has anyone done that before?

Thanks,
Ingo

 

[PCar SBO]

OK, I completed the replacement of the drivers side motor mount. It was one of the most painful and involved projects yet and it took me almost 4 hours to get through it. I had a lot of bruises and nicks on my hands and was covered in black crap all over. Here is a short account of what had to be done:

Warning: Always place the front wheel under the car after jacking it up so that it prevents the car from crushing you in case a jack stand or jack malfunctions and collapses. Never rely just on a floor jack.

- Jack car up and remove front drivers wheel, inner wheel liner and both exhaust shields
- remove top nut and heat shield from engine mount
- remove engine under-pan
- unclip A/C/ line from black heat shield bracket
- remove heat shield bracket from engine mount frame bracket
- remove both nuts holding the engine mount to the frame
- remove both front sway bar mounts and move sway bar out of the way to gain access lifting the engine by the oil pan
- remove serpentine belt and then remove the mounting bolt for A/C compressor into the engine mount arm and partially remove the 2 bolts
- remove plastic engine top cover
- put jack stand under front left main frame area to free up the floor jack
- use the floor jack with wood to start lifting up engine from the oil pan (move sway bar out of the way to gain access)
- once the engine doesn't rest on the engine mount any longer you can remove the aluminum engine mount bracket (5 screws) from the crankcase

- with the bracket out of the way You can take out the old motor mount out and put the new motor mount in place

Someone posted you can lift the engine high enough to get the old mount out and the new one in without taking the aluminum bracket of the engine. I have not idea how that would work. You'd have to lift the engine more than 10 inches and there is simply not enough room. I tried but the top of the bell housing started to hit the underside of the tunnel. So that's why I decided to remove the aluminum arm (and for that the A/C compressor had to be unbolted) instead.

Putting the car back together is basically the reverse of the above. Then enjoy the engine not trying to jump out of the engine bay when getting on it. Sweet success and make sure you have a good hand cleaner - you'll need it.

Ingo

 

[johnma]

Good Job.. any pictures to share?
Thanks.

 

[PCar SBO]

Sorry - didn't take any pictures as I my hands were covered in crap and oil the entire time.

 

[art_arev]

PCar, its good you managed.
You didn't have to remove the sway bar or the compressor or the engine mount support. The mounts come out if the engine is lifted evenly & high enough. It is a two man job. All you have to do is unclip the Air filter cover & remove the coolant reservoir from the bolts & let it rest on the engine. All you need is about 4 inch lift.