Mercedes-Benz Forum banner
1 - 16 of 16 Posts

· Registered
2 wheel drive W163 and W124
Joined
·
79 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
It's been about a month now since my ML finally quit starting. All ground wires are good. On my fourth starter of the year. It's a rebuilt one. Battery is good.

It seems the starter will work out of the vehicle but, once its installed I just get a single clicking sound once the key is turned...

:surrender:
 

· Registered
2000 ML 430
Joined
·
1,598 Posts
I know you said the ground wires are good but I would still replace the battery cables as there might be corrosion. This same thing happened to me and I replaced both my positive and negative battery cables and I got the truck to start with a jump from a battery charger.
 

· Registered
2 wheel drive W163 and W124
Joined
·
79 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Hooked it straight up to a jumper box with no change. Surprised it wouldn't work even then.

There's a TSB about the ECU going bad which is what I'm starting to lean towards.

I've even tried a pushbutton start and that does the same as the key.
 

· Super Moderator
02 ML500, 00 ML320, 05 E500 4M Wagon, 99 ML430
Joined
·
23,711 Posts
If the push button start bypassed the electronics and was just put in to get power from the battery to the starter then ECU is not in the mix.

What circuit did you tap for the push button starter?
 

· Outstanding Contributor
2006 ML500 2002 ML320
Joined
·
17,942 Posts
What you will have to do is perform a voltage drop test. The prerequisites for this test are the battery must be full charged, all battery connections are clean and tight and all ground connections are in place.

1. With a DVOM, test the battery voltage at the battery cable ends: 12.6 needed.

2. Run a 10 gauge wire long enough from the negative battery cable to the starter. Attach eyelet on one side which gets attached to the neg. battery cable. The other end stripped for testing.

3. Attach the neg. lead of the DVOM to the end of the stripped wire (be inventive) and set the meter to reading volts.

4. ASSISTANT NEEDED. Turn the key to start and test the stud of the VIOLET wire. 12v should show on the meter. Release the key.

5. Then turn the key to start and test the stud of the heavy positive battery cable. Approx. 10.5-11.5v should show on the meter. Do not hold the key to start for any longer than 2 secs. to obtain reading.


If the reading on the battery cable stud falls dramatically, the resistance in the cable is too high and must be replaced.

If you do not understand anything, please ask first.
 

Attachments

· Registered
2 wheel drive W163 and W124
Joined
·
79 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
It was the #23 wire from the starter to the alternator! It's a little over a foot long. Pretty corroded on both ends and the copper was all green. I used to live at the beach oceanside. Damn salt air!

I just cleaned the positive cable and post. As good as new.

The cable cost 6 bucks from pep boys...:thumbsup:
 

· Outstanding Contributor
2006 ML500 2002 ML320
Joined
·
17,942 Posts
It was the #23 wire from the starter to the alternator! It's a little over a foot long. Pretty corroded on both ends and the copper was all green. I used to live at the beach oceanside. Damn salt air!

I just cleaned the positive cable and post. As good as new.

The cable cost 6 bucks from pep boys...:thumbsup:
Good show.
 

· Registered
2002 ML500; 2007 BMW 335XI
Joined
·
419 Posts
The power goes to the starter first from the wire hooked to the alternator or the small wire on the solenoid?:confused:
Positive wire from battery goes to alternator then to solenoid. The other solenoid pole is start signal (negative) given by your key start signal. Maybe take a look at attached diagram and mark down what wire are you talking about in case above does not answer your question.
 

Attachments

· Outstanding Contributor
2006 ML500 2002 ML320
Joined
·
17,942 Posts
Positive wire from battery goes to alternator then to solenoid. The other solenoid pole is start signal (negative) given by your key start signal. Maybe take a look at attached diagram and mark down what wire are you talking about in case above does not answer your question.
What he is saying is that there was corrosion on one of the ends of cable #23.
 

Attachments

1 - 16 of 16 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top