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1998 ML320, 1991 190E 2.3
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Can anybody give me an instruction how to make a homemade 202 589 00 14 00 tool. It is used to take out the ignition lock cylinder. OR if anybody found a way to take out the ignition cylinder without using this special tools.
Thanks.
 

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1998 ML320, 1991 190E 2.3
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks 43!!!!
Got the truck back home using your tapping method described in one of the tread few years back. I combined it with blowing some compressed air from an air tank. Unlocked it on the fifth round.
I saw the instructions you posted before with the sketch diagram, not so clear which way of the tool I should push in. Can you elaborate/show or is it does not matter??
 

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Thanks 43!!!!
Got the truck back home using your tapping method described in one of the tread few years back. I combined it with blowing some compressed air from an air tank. Unlocked it on the fifth round.
I saw the instructions you posted before with the sketch diagram, not so clear which way of the tool I should push in. Can you elaborate/show or is it does not matter??
The smaller end indicated by the arrow.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks again 43. Much better picture than what I printed before.
I called around today and found out one locksmith can change the Wafers for $35 if I took the cylinder out myself.
Called the dealer and they quote me $60+ for a new cylinder with one "regular key" (no remote). If I need the Remote key it is extra. I cannot use my old remote key to start the car (just to lock/unlock the door). Is it true??? And if I get new remote key I need to replaced door cylinder and whole bunch of other thing to make it work with one key only like OEM!!
I'm thinking just replace the wafers for $35, what do you think?

PS:I ordered the tool and it will be here on Friday.
 

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1998 ML320, 1991 190E 2.3
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Well, the dealer called me back. Apparently they quote the for a generic tumbler ($60+).
the right tumbler is $115, the cylinder housing $120 and cover $30.
According to them if the key cannot be turn, I need to change the tumble and the housing together. I can save on the cover if it is not broken when I took it out.
I have no clue what is the Cylinder housing they talking about!!
 

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99 ML430, 00 ML320, 05 E500 4matic Wagon
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You don't need a new remote. The new blade is just held to the remote with a tiny roll pin.
Also the new cylinder can be done by a locksmith to work with your current key.

It sounds like the dealer is giving you confusing info.
 

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1998 ML320, 1991 190E 2.3
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
AAAAAAAAHHHHH!!!! Thanks Noodles.
If that is the case, I'm going to take the tumbler out and bring it to the locksmith first and see what they say and then go from there.
Thanks guys. I'll be back after Friday if I hit a snag.
 

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You do not need a new remote or a new housing. What you need is a new tumbler/lock cylinder. Now the choice is whether to remove the tumbler and have a locksmith rework the pins or buy a new tumbler from the dealer.

If you choose the locksmith you have to assure yourself that he knows what he is doing. When the key is not in the tumbler all the pins will be up. When it is, the pins will fall into the cylinder enabling you to turn it. When you get it back from the locksmith, insert and remove the key multiple times to check and see everything works before installing it in the housing.

The second choice is to buy a new cylinder which will be coded to your original key. Do not buy the generic cylinder because it will only work the ignition lock cylinder and that means that you will only have one key blade attached to the remote and the other one will be useless.

Below is a photo of a faulty key tumbler with one pin up while the key is inserted. This is probably your problem, even though you never mentioned what it was. The other photo is of the housing (shown upside down) where the tumbler is inserted (green arrow) and the red portion is the clam shell which is wrapped around the steering column shaft
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks 43 for the pictures.
I've seen the pic with the pin sticking out on on the other tread. Actually it is the pic that I print to bring to the locksmith to figure out if they can do it. Few of them know exactly that it is the probable cause, the only thing is they do not have the tool to take it out (for W163). When I blow the cylinder with compress air, there are a bunch of crude (dust) coming out. So, I'm crossing my finger right now.
I cannot find the lock lube that you suggested on the other tread. I settled with PB Blaster Graphite spray that only can be found at Lowe's in this area. The thing right now is: The locksmiths said graphite is bad for ignition lock and switch. It is good for anything else but not for ignition. Any true?? They might have to charge me extra clean it out so it won't mess-up again after they fix it.

How long or deep the hook should be?? I'm crafting it out using a heavy duty paper clip!
 

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It seems that you want to make everything. The biggest part of auto mechanics besides knowledge, is having the proper tools. You were aware that you needed puller hooks and did not order them.

Remove the covers surrounding the steering column and it will be easier to remove the transponder coil. Use a wire coat hanger fashioned in the shape of the puller.

As for the graphite, do what your locksmith tells you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I don't plan to make everything until the dealer quote me over $300 for the tools alone (yikes). I read that European Hayne's manual show how to make a homemade tool. That 's when I try my luck to see if anybody have the instruction.
I have no luck on ebay until you point out the $35 link (I use the wrong term while searching). I found a hook set at Harbor Freight for $1.99 on sale right now. Tools wise for this project, I am a happy camper.
After buying the tools and having the locksmith work on the cylinder, I only spend less than a quarter of what the lowest indie quote me on just labor alone (Don't mention the dealer).
Couldn't have done this without you and Noodles help. Guys like you that make owning and working on Mercedes ENJOYABLE!!!!

On different note, I used to owned an Audi. They told me I need an expensive special tools to take out the front strut cartridge. Well, I just used a pipe wrench and it work perfectly!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Finally got the tools and took out the lock cylinder. Does not even take me 5 minutes.
It is full of crud and I think most of them are graphite. I cleaned it up with WD40 really good and everything is smooth with the key in and out.
I have a question:
Please see the attached pictures. If I push the key all the way in - there is one pin that sticking out. But, if i just back it out a little (with the star logo at the base of the key is fully visible), all of the pins looks even. Is this normal or I need the locksmith to work on the cylinder?
OR
Is there anything at the end of the cylinder after I installed it that will prevent the key to be too far in?

What should I use to lubricate the cylinder before I installed. Nobody sell Lock Ease over here. Ebay will take another week. Will light machine oil or silicone or white lithium grease or just some simple dry graphite will do the job??
 

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You have two choices. Bring it to a reputable locksmith an have him work on it or buy a coded cylinder from the dealer, which your key will operate. This will take a few days to get.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Thanks again 43, both option require me to wait until Monday. Glad to hear that there is still a chance to salvaged it. Looks like no fishing this weekend! Don't want to put it back and got stuck at the lake.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
The cylinder has been worked on and looks smooth/level like new. The bad thing is, it is still sticking but I only have to wiggle the key to free it. After I turned the key and turn the ignition off (key still in the cylinder), I can start the car again without any sticking (Like new). Upon further inspection I saw some grooves (saw tooth type) in the barrel where the wafer stop the cylinder from turning without key inserted. Does this mean that I need to change the barrel?? If I do, can anybody give the part number and the best place to get it.
Thanks.
 

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You have two options:

a. buy a generic tumbler which your original key will not operate. It will come with jut a key blade, which will be difficult to turn by hand on its own. You will then have to hold the remote close to the tumbler while you turn the new key blade. FORGET ABOUT THIS OPTION.

b. you must physically present yourself at a M/B dealership with your license, registration and title and order a new tumbler which will automatically be coded to fit your present key.

But depending on the dealership they might insist on replacing the new cylinder, as per new Theft Relevant Parts requirements.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Oh Oh, I'm confuse!!

43sqd: I thought Tumbler and Cylinder is the same animal??

Noodles: Which part are you referring at the Bone yard? The cylinder or that "thingy thing" (I have no idea what it is called) where the cylinder goes into at the steering column?

Both: So, Can I assumed that "Thingy thing" at the steering column with the "saw tooth" ridges are normal? and the cylinder IS still the problem?

Thanks.
 

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Oh Oh, I'm confuse!!

43sqd: I thought Tumbler and Cylinder is the same animal??

Noodles: Which part are you referring at the Bone yard? The cylinder or that "thingy thing" (I have no idea what it is called) where the cylinder goes into at the steering column?

Both: So, Can I assumed that "Thingy thing" at the steering column with the "saw tooth" ridges are normal? and the cylinder IS still the problem?

Thanks.
It is the same animal.

You already know the correct name for the "thingy thing"; it's called the housing, which was explained in previous posts in this thread.

I have no idea what you mean by "saw tooth" ridges. If you don't supply a photo of what you are referring to, we shouldn't be expected to know.
 
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