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ml 270 cdi 2001
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32 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
hi all ,
i have a ml 270 cdi 2001 model
heres my problem.... normal driving temp at 80 deg
engine revs very high between gear changes,think 3rd and 4th is worst,
when towing engine runs at 90-95deg, revs are worst and sometimes doesnt find a gear leaving the dashboard saying its in 'D' but engine just revs as in neutral..
solution so far is to pull over switch of ign restart car and all fine for a while,
no fault codes showing ,just replaced crank sensor (a previous problem),
any ideas before i part my hard erned cash to mr mb down the road
 

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Premium Member
02 ML320 06 ML500
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17,101 Posts
The Check Eng. Light does not have to be illuminated for codes to be present. The codes must be read from the ETC (Trans.) Module. We cannot help without the specific numerical codes.
 

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ml 270 cdi 2001
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32 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
i am actually seeking a few ideas on the problem before i go to mb as they quoted me nearly £1000 for a rear anti roll bar and bottom ball joint !!!!!
 

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Premium Member
02 ML320 06 ML500
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17,101 Posts
ok thanks will start looking about,
do you have any ideas on the problem though ?
Have you looked at the code list that I supplied you with? It could be anything, mechanical problem in the trans. or an electronic one.

Maybe you should check the level, color and odor of your tras. fluid.
 

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ml 270 cdi 2001
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32 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
i was led to believe by mb that the box was a sealed for life unit ?
if not how do i check the fluid level etc,is there a dipstick or anything to do this check
 

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Premium Member
02 ML320 06 ML500
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17,101 Posts
i was led to believe by mb that the box was a sealed for life unit ?
if not how do i check the fluid level etc,is there a dipstick or anything to do this check
Search the DIY threads on the main page and you will find all the info. you need.
 

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ml 270 cdi 2001
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32 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
have been doing some research and seems that its poss to do a gearbox oil/filter change but no one thats talking about it seems to have had the problems i have !!!
many thanks for your advise maybe i need to do some more googling ...
 

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2002 ML55 AMG, 2005 Chrysler Crossfire Coupe Limited, 1999 C280
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4,714 Posts
have been doing some research and seems that its poss to do a gearbox oil/filter change but no one thats talking about it seems to have had the problems i have !!!
many thanks for your advise maybe i need to do some more googling ...
Hello Martin.

Sorry to hear about your problem.

No need to give up on the Forum; you received the conventional wisdom from experienced members of the Forum.

Your problems (without giving us specific codes) could be:

1. Transmission oil and filter need changing;

2. Failing that, the 13-pin transmission connector may have fluid in it and need changing;

3. Failing that the transmission conductor plate may need to be changed.

The possible fixes above have been given to you in chronological order based on price to fix and process of elimination.

Good luck!
 

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ml 270 cdi 2001
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32 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
ah at last ha ha this is what i needed,after search every page on the web (well fells like it )
i have found a local garrage who does merc gearbox refills etc and at £180 for oil and filter change ,like you say this seems the cheapest option to start with,
once again for all the help and will update as soon as oil change done , fingers crossed
 

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ml 270 cdi 2001
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32 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
ok have now had gear box oil and filter changed and whilst doing that i asked them to check the 13 pin plug and no oil or contamination,drives much better with smoother gear change,but we towed the caravan again today and engine temp rose from normal 80 up to 95 and yet again engine flaring between 3rd and 4th gear and even red lining at some gear changes whilst going up hill ......this never happens when not towing so is it poss that it is due to temp increase ?
 

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ML 270CDI 2002, BMW K1300S, VW POLO 1.9TDI
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515 Posts
The likely cause of the false neutrals/flaring is the 'electro/hydraulic plate', which is located inside the transmission and can be replaced without having to remove the transmission. No coding needed after renewal, just plug and play.

The rise in temp to circa 95 whilst towing is perfectly normal due to the engine working harder, as is gears hanging on to the red line (whilst towing) which is due to the 'adaptive' transmission feature which tailors itself to the load of the vehicle and also combined to your style of driving.
 

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1998 ML320
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613 Posts
Assuming your fluids are good normally what you have described will be worn friction bands or just a pressure seal. Neither of which are good. The high revs under load and during shifting usually occur when the friction bands or disks in some trannys have worn these act more or less like a clutch. When the next gear is desired these loosen to let the loads off then grip again with the new gear in place. When the friction material is just about gone the revving is from them not being able to clamp down so you get polished metal with oil trying to push against more polished metal. Or you get a leaky seal that doesn't let pressure buildup high enough to let friction surfaces clamp down. The seal is a $4 part in most but hard to get to. If the slipping was happening in all gears then other things could be damaged.

Since this is happening under higher loads your engine and the tranny are working harder and you se more heat. I really would not be towing anything at all until you know whats wrong. If it is a seal it could ( did in my case) blow out and no gears worked and left me stranded. If it is one of these especially the friction stuff you may end up killing it by towing much faster and have it fail unpredictably. Not a great way to end your holiday out.
 

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ml 270 cdi 2001
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Discussion Starter #19
that seems to make sense .... i assume i would be better off finding a new tranny rather than trying to find parts etc (more cost effective ?)
thanks for the above info and thank god the camping season is over !!!!
 

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1998 ML320
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613 Posts
If it is a mechanical thing then it really comes down to if you can find another tranny cheap enough. And if the vehicle is worth putting the money into. If you are not planning to drive it for another 5 years plus you may not get your value out of it. If you can't diy this then you will end up paying to have it pulled and the new one put in again. And I think if I have understood the pdfs 43Sqd has posted something needs to be programmed by a dealer? So you need to add up all that to see if its worth fixing. Have no idea how your prices are in the UK for any of that stuff.

When mine went I drove it and parked and when I went to leave, it just sat there and made noises. The friction surfaces were like polished mirrors so I'm surprised it shifted or even moved. Mine wasn't behaving as bad as yours sounds so thats why I'd be careful until you know. Either that or have the cab company phone number on speed dial :D
 
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