ML diesel tire and brake wear.
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Rotors are only designed for use with a single set of pads, then both are tossed out and replaced with new ones.
MB Rotors use a softer higher temperature iron with increased graphite composition to handle higher heat (brake energy) without warping.
If you turn the rotors, subtract the amount used you will see that the rotor will not have sufficient thickness to last thru another set of pads before being worn below safe limits.
Due to "EBD" Electronic Brake Distribution which is programming in the ABS computer, this distributes fluid to all calipers individually.
If you pussy foot your brakes the rear brake pads will provide the majority of the braking. Heavier braking forces a bias to the fronts, the logic is very sound!
Rear brakes provide the least amount of stopping power, these are used primarily under soft braking where they can provide the majority of the braking for the vehicle. Also using the rear brakes provides a gentler deceleration without nose dive.
This leaves the front brakes coolest and available for a maximum braking situation (emergency stop).
Run Flats should last as long as any other tire. The key to long life is maintaining them at optimal pressure settings.
Most people NEVER read the owners manual so they don't ever catch the fact that the front tires must ALWAYS be at a lower pressure than the rears! Also your typical American overloads the tires by virtue of under-inflation for specific pressure setting! There are generally TWO tire pressure settings, half load and FULL LOAD. If you have 2-3 people you are pretty much at the full load range and require higher pressure settings (read your owners manual). If you driver primarily on the highway you would also require the higher pressure settings since high speed driving requires a higher pressure settings aka Full Load.
The biggest culprit to poor tire life is almost always under-inflation followed by out of balance tires and poor alignment. As a rule, use ONLY a digital tire pressure gage and check every week, rotate every 5K, rebalance every 10K, re-align with every new set of tires and run at the full load settings.
Another way to trim your tire pressures is to measure the cross depth of the tire. Measure tire depth accross the width at 3 locations. If you are wearing faster at the center depty you need to increase your inflation pressures. High wear on the outer edges indicates an over-inflation. So far I have found on our ML and GL that the max load +2 psi to be working out for uniform tread wear, then again we load them up with people and gear and seldom have fewer than four people in the car at any time.
MB Rotors use a softer higher temperature iron with increased graphite composition to handle higher heat (brake energy) without warping.
If you turn the rotors, subtract the amount used you will see that the rotor will not have sufficient thickness to last thru another set of pads before being worn below safe limits.
Due to "EBD" Electronic Brake Distribution which is programming in the ABS computer, this distributes fluid to all calipers individually.
If you pussy foot your brakes the rear brake pads will provide the majority of the braking. Heavier braking forces a bias to the fronts, the logic is very sound!
Rear brakes provide the least amount of stopping power, these are used primarily under soft braking where they can provide the majority of the braking for the vehicle. Also using the rear brakes provides a gentler deceleration without nose dive.
This leaves the front brakes coolest and available for a maximum braking situation (emergency stop).
Run Flats should last as long as any other tire. The key to long life is maintaining them at optimal pressure settings.
Most people NEVER read the owners manual so they don't ever catch the fact that the front tires must ALWAYS be at a lower pressure than the rears! Also your typical American overloads the tires by virtue of under-inflation for specific pressure setting! There are generally TWO tire pressure settings, half load and FULL LOAD. If you have 2-3 people you are pretty much at the full load range and require higher pressure settings (read your owners manual). If you driver primarily on the highway you would also require the higher pressure settings since high speed driving requires a higher pressure settings aka Full Load.
The biggest culprit to poor tire life is almost always under-inflation followed by out of balance tires and poor alignment. As a rule, use ONLY a digital tire pressure gage and check every week, rotate every 5K, rebalance every 10K, re-align with every new set of tires and run at the full load settings.
Another way to trim your tire pressures is to measure the cross depth of the tire. Measure tire depth accross the width at 3 locations. If you are wearing faster at the center depty you need to increase your inflation pressures. High wear on the outer edges indicates an over-inflation. So far I have found on our ML and GL that the max load +2 psi to be working out for uniform tread wear, then again we load them up with people and gear and seldom have fewer than four people in the car at any time.
I think it's the other way around..
-Robert
thats not true, rotors can be used till they reach there wear limit. a car may go through 2 sets of pads till they need to replace the rotors. othertimes they will need to be replaced sooner if the rotors exibit heat marks, deep grooves or any other signs that can cause noise or chattering, etc....
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