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Discussion Starter #1
I am looking to replace all of my brake lines. Mechanic suggested to replace as they are rusted and there is air in the system. I matched it up and they seem to be 3/16” what size do you guys use and how much is necessary I got 25 feet of 3/16” in copper. Also what is recommended brake fluid? I know it’s DOT 4 but is there any specific brand for MB or European vehicles?

Thank You!
 

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I am looking to replace all of my brake lines. Mechanic suggested to replace as they are rusted and there is air in the system. I matched it up and they seem to be 3/16” what size do you guys use and how much is necessary I got 25 feet of 3/16” in copper. Also what is recommended brake fluid? I know it’s DOT 4 but is there any specific brand for MB or European vehicles?

Thank You!
Copper for brake lines??
Maybe the cheap indies will do this.
You're kidding right?

Oem is an alloy (don't recall off the top of my head, what it's called) and I think coated (maybe they've done away with the greenish coating), pre-formed lengths ready to install. All the lines are individual and based on your vin#.
Not as simple as one would think to replace too.

EDIT: Found it. - MB dot 4+ fluid.
But this is the least of your worries, boss.
 

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2002 ML320, 2003 A160, 2002 ML500, 2018 GLS350d
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If they’re rusted, why don’t you just clean them? I doubt many here have replaced their brake lines.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
If they’re rusted, why don’t you just clean them? I doubt many here have replaced their brake lines.
Don’t most people replace rusted brake lines? I guess I could try to clean them up and post back with how they come out.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Copper for brake lines??
Maybe the cheap indies will do this.
You're kidding right?

Oem is an alloy (don't recall off the top of my head, what it's called) and I think coated (maybe they've done away with the greenish coating), pre-formed lengths ready to install. All the lines are individual and based on your vin#.
Not as simple as one would think to replace too.

EDIT: Found it. - MB dot 4+ fluid.
But this is the least of your worries, boss.
I will look up how much they are.
 

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I will look up how much they are.
Your mechanic "suggested"..... is he someone you trust, is qualified working on MBs?
I would recommend you investigate further, clean them first as suggest by DrX.

btw, you can't purchase the BLs as any pkg, not that I've seen. Each segment sold separately.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Your mechanic "suggested"..... is he someone you trust, is qualified working on MBs?
I would recommend you investigate further, clean them first as suggest by DrX.

btw, you can't purchase the BLs as any pkg, not that I've seen. Each segment sold separately.
The mechanic does general work on most vehicles but doesn’t specialize in MB. The line I picked up is Nickel and Copper. I figured it would be best to replace them instead of replacing sections. MB Spec (European) is actually 4.75mm which is .1875 inches which is pretty close to 3/16” which is .187 inches
2633841
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I will look up how much they are.
I have actually read on most forums that nickel/copper is a great “new product” that doesn’t rust as often as stainless or steel. It is actually easier to bend than stainless. Check out this video.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
What else would I need to replace all brake lines and is 25’ enough? Any other special fittings? I read that these use European vehicles use DIN/ISO Bubble flares?
 

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To replace all of the 3/16" brake lines from ABS pump, you need approx. 40' of brake line, quality bending tool, and a DIN / ISO flaring tool. much easier if you install a flare union in the rear brake lines to make them 2 pieces each along the frame approx. under the front door hinges. this requires a sae 45 degree double flaring tool and fittings.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
To replace all of the 3/16" brake lines from ABS pump, you need approx. 40' of brake line, quality bending tool, and a DIN / ISO flaring tool. much easier if you install a flare union in the rear brake lines to make them 2 pieces each along the frame approx. under the front door hinges. this requires a sae 45 degree double flaring tool and fittings.
Should they have these at auto part stores?
 

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From your other post you said the issue is that you have no pressure, fluid level is correct.

I don’t think replacing the brake line is going to solve that issue.

Unless there is severe contamination, like no reservoir cap while in storage there is nothing that is going in to clog the break line.

Yes breaklines corrode out side in and also from inside out. When that happens they will leak and even with a small pin hole you will loose fluid fast.

Replacing them is preventive. Start by bleeding first, fluid is cheap, an hours time with a helper your done. Then if you still have no pressure and no leaks, figure out what the issue is.


You also have in other posts stated the car was in storage. If there was a leak due to rust I suppose the fluid could stay in the reservoir, and slowly leak out of the line, air could take it’s place.
But once you start pumping the pedal you will refill the line with fluid and it will start to leak.

No leak no air no problem with the line itself right now.
 

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1999 ML430
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So, currently (knock on wood!) both of my W163's have no issues with the brakes. Recently changed pads and rotors and bled system. My question is :

I know the factory brake lines are expensive and difficult to transport due to length of preformed sections. I figure the factory lines also have all the required fittings on the lines themselves. IF brake lines need to be replaced down the line, would I be better off by using MB factory lines OR going with this new composition line that is much easier to work with and should last longer due to its nickel/copper makeup.

IS IT JUST ME OR IS THIS CORONA19 CRAP STARTING TO GET TO YOU TOO ?
 

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Not sure about the material.

But bending pipe and flaring fittings is an art. Not sure what an ml uses but most auto use a double flare. It is tough enough getting a single flare correct.

Too much material you will rip the flare open too little the nut can Work loose of the shoulder.

If you have never done it there is a learning curve. You will be an expert by the time you are done. How much material it will take? Also if you bend a turn at the wrong spot a pipe can only be reshaped 3 times in that spot, that is for copper not sure about other materials.

So if time Is not of the essence, yes almost anyone can.

Me if I had one to replace pick a part from an ml in a dry desert climate like mine.
Or
order one from the dealer or

take the old lines to a BRAKE shop and have them make up new custom lines
 

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As wallyo suggested, fluid flush and change is better way to go for starters.

Assuming you've also done some sifting thru all the threads related to your topic??

Here's 2 of MANY, on a quick search.


 

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One of the reasons I got my 01 for so cheap was a rusted through line ~ halfway between the front and rear wheels on the drivers side. Ended up having a local shop do it so I could safely transport the car back home but it was $600 for that one section alone. I think if you have all lines replaced you will be looking at quite a bit of money. I would use CLR and a scotchbrite or something to take any corrosion off the lines and help keep wear and tear down.

The shop that did the lines also bled the system but did not activate the BAS pump so I still had a little squishy in the line but not enough to have it done immediately after. I am due for a flush so I will send it to MB or an indie.
 

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Also just to add there might be some old fashion independent part stores that also have machine shop service that will make up and bend brake lines, some larger NAPA shops might.

You can buy line in incremental straight lengths preflared with nuts attached
But if a little long you will need to find a place for the extra.
 

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The nickel copper is getting a huge following. It is very easy to bubble and flare.
It more than meets the PSI ratings and is very corrosion resistant.
 

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