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1986 Unimog U1300L
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98 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hi,
I am about to pick up my U1300L (fully serviced, everything checked, etc).
Slight issue I have, it’s 4000km (2500miles) away and I fly there, so I can only take limited tools.
I have about 6kg (14lbs) luggage allowance left...
What size spanners/sockets would you pack? What other than spanners/socket/screwdriver would you take?

The trip is all highway, no off-road.

cheers
Andre
 

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85' U1300L Holset Turbo VA A/C, 66' Propane 404.1 rock mog, 1975 416 Doka, G500, Volvo C303
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5,009 Posts
If you cant fix it with a 19mm, 17mm, 14mm, crescent, medium jaw plier, medium vise grips, large and small Phillips/flat head then you probably need to get it to a safe place that already has tools on hand. Major failures on a mog are tough on the side of the road. To date I have never had a failure on the road I couldn’t either Fix in about 5 minutes or drive to a safe place. This includes seizing my OM352. She may make noise and groan at you but she will almost always get you safe. This Has applied to all my mog’s starting with the first 200mi trip I ever drove a mog in my first 404.0. That was picking her up sight unseen.
 

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1988 U1300L RW1 Working gears Dual Tanks AC Rigged for Camping Plus: 91 F250 HD 4x4
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187 Posts
Hi,
I am about to pick up my U1300L (fully serviced, everything checked, etc).
Slight issue I have, it’s 4000km (2500miles) away and I fly there, so I can only take limited tools.
I have about 6kg (14lbs) luggage allowance left...
What size spanners/sockets would you pack? What other than spanners/socket/screwdriver would you take?

The trip is all highway, no off-road.

cheers
Andre
Sounds somewhat like my first meeting with my U1300L RW1. On the RORO dock at the Port of Galveston. 1200 miles to home. Biggest difference, we went down in my buddy's nice new GMC pickup. I packed everything, he led me back, convoy style. Mog had been looked into in Belgium, no issues on the trip home. However.....

I had with me a set of front portal breathers ordered in ahead of time, the ones made in the US by Von. I also had a temperature gun, narrow spot. Installed the breathers in the parking lot, before setting out (piece of cake, peace of mind).

Along with this, several quarts of proper portal lube, with a pour spout (now I carry a big plastic horse syringe, to top off the portals cleanly and easily). And, diesel engine oil, and pre-mixed antifreeze. I never go anywhere without fluids, which you can easily acquire before you set out.

On my truck, my biggest concern always is and has been portals; siphoning out into the axles, and/ or leaking out the seals. On that trip home, I checked the portals frequently the first half-day, visual inspection for leaks, and hand on each in turn for elevated temperatures. All seemed good, and never actually used the temp gun.

To DokaTD's list I would probably add: 10mm, 13mm, 15mm (all in combination pattern), a 3/8" drive ratchet and set of deep sockets, and a multimeter.

Is there a tall jack and spare on the truck now, along with a 24mm socket and a REALLY BIG flex handle (or handle and a piece of pipe to add)? At 300 ft-lbs on the lug nuts, I carry a 3/4" drive 24mm impact socket, a 24" flex handle (might not be able to break the lug nuts free) and a 42" 90-600 foot-lb torque wrench. Just sayin'..........

My first thought was to suggest a wing and a prayer, but on reflection, I made it in fine style, and I bet you will too. My trip was two long days, but happy to be here.

Lee
 

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1963 Unimog 404
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42 Posts
Water. Obviously you don’t have to take it on the plane, but make sure you have a few gallons with you.
 

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1986 Unimog U1300L
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98 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Thanks everyone for chipping in!
two things that rattle my brain a bit - the owners manual has a nice pictures in it regards wheel nuts showing a 60cm bar with 70kg applied at the end (which is about 50% more force than on my Landcruiser) - does that sound about right or should I buy a longer extension before heading out?
The other thing is, no-one called out any air line repair kit - nothing to worry about?

Cheers
Andre
 

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Registered
1988 U1300L RW1 Working gears Dual Tanks AC Rigged for Camping Plus: 91 F250 HD 4x4
Joined
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187 Posts
Thanks everyone for chipping in!
two things that rattle my brain a bit - the owners manual has a nice pictures in it regards wheel nuts showing a 60cm bar with 70kg applied at the end (which is about 50% more force than on my Landcruiser) - does that sound about right or should I buy a longer extension before heading out?
The other thing is, no-one called out any air line repair kit - nothing to worry about?

Cheers
Andre
Is there a tall jack and spare on the truck now, along with a 24mm socket and a REALLY BIG flex handle (or handle and a piece of pipe to add)? At 300 ft-lbs on the lug nuts, I carry a 3/4" drive 24mm impact socket, a 24" flex handle (might not be able to break the lug nuts free) and a 42" 90-600 foot-lb torque wrench. Just sayin'..........
For REAL. I have been unable to break loose the lug nuts with the 24" flex handle (maybe because of being old and crotchety), and so early on I carried a piece of pipe as an extender. In my shop, the Ingersoll-Rand 1/2"impact wrench rated 650 ft-lb reverse (Ha! and I run 125 psi air, to boot) usually will not crack the lug nuts (and will not tighten to 300 ft-lbs, either). The 3/4" drive 42" long torque wrench is simply a very big wrench, and with that length, it is pretty straightforward to crack'em loose, as well as torque back up properly. It is always on the truck. And bear in mind the M-B directive to re-torque after 50 km. 400 Nm or 300 foot-pounds, not your average SUV.

Also, think about the jack. A typical single stage hydraulic jack will only lift 5"-6". A full-on flat on these tires will drop the truck more than that, meaning you could reach the axle, with some blocks to stack up and place the jack on, but you will have to have more blocks to repeat the process for a second hoist, in order to get the new tire on. I found a 12-ton telescoping (two piston) hydraulic, with double the total lift. I still carry a block, for when on soft ground. There are aftermarket long cylinder jacks available; they are hard to source, and expensive, but nice.

Another hint: these tires are too heavy (for me, at least) to lift up, align, and slide onto the lugs. The key move is to start with the axle/ hub a bit high and preferably with one stud right at 12 o'clock position, and wiggle the wheel to within about 2" of hitting the studs. Then pull up on one side of the tire to rotate into hole- stud alignment, and lean the tire into the hub. Then release jack slowly until the top wheel lug hole drops over the top-most stud. Push wheel in if needed, and start a lug nut (to keep the wheel on the hub) on that top stud, then jack up until the wheel hangs free; the bottom of the wheel will swing inward and onto the other lugs as the hub is now raised. Add lug nuts, torque down.

As for air lines, I recently found my slow overnight leak-down with the soap test. The two-level pressure regulator from the primary tank was leaking around the piston and out the bore in the casting. To remove it, I had to disconnect all the fittings, and slide the tank well back in the bracket. Much to my surprise and delight, I discover that the steel fittings are all plastic lined, and everything is pristine within. Not newfound, but increased respect (awe ?) for M-B engineering. I would not get too worried about your air lines, presuming it has been holding pressure well at the shop. Bear in mind, I had this leak from the get-go, 21 months/ 5k miles ago.

Being a cautious type that regularly does incautious things, and alone, I always carry a good-sized fire extinguisher with a decent A:B:C rating. I had this in my kit when I picked up my truck, this was not inspired by the huge fires currently raging Down Under. Even more concern there, now?

Final small item: I would maybe add Allen wrenches to the list of tools.

Lee
 
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