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2000 ML320 1987 560SL
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231 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Just discovered inner CV joint boot has ruptured. Anybody changed it or had it changed (if so how much)? Couldn’t find the hole, but sure could find the grease!
 

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Black 2005 ML 500
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1,662 Posts
I guess that is a rare problem that not many people have had it before..? I have had and heard a lot of other issues but almost never heard about CV boot problems on the ML.. Anybody else..?

Good luck..

AC
 

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Registered
2000 ML320 1987 560SL
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231 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
My experience w/ inner CV boots on other vehicles has been painful. Unless I am soon stricken with honorable employment I expect I will soon find out how tough it is. I do suggest that at least once a year check your CV boots. They can go a long time with a hole in them before you get the dreaded "clunk, clunk", expecially the inner ones as they don't get any left/right action, only up/down. I expect that WIS will take 25 pages to describe.

I am especially worried that there is some special tool which makes things much easier that is not mentioned in WIS. Decades ago I replaced the inner tie rod ends on a Ford Taurus, removing the power steering rack (ouch!) per the manual. Once finished took the car to NTB for alignment and asked a casual question to the mechanic. He showed me a special deep socket a foot long that removed/replaced the tie rod end in about 15 minutes (w/o removing the PS). Such tricks may yet be in store for me. Any MB techs that could say a few kind words would be appreciated.
 

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Coupe/Convertible Forums Moderator
CURRENT: 2011 SL550, 2011 C300 FORMER: ML350, CLK550 Cabriolet, C240, ML320, 300TD
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19,156 Posts
I have not had to deal with the CV joints on the M-Class, but on other vehicles (mostly Toyotas and a Honda or two), they are very easy to replace and relatively inexpensive. In the “old days�, mechanics actually used to remove the axles and replace the boots. This was a time-consuming process because it generally involved disassembling at least one of the joints. Nowadays, you can buy a complete replacement axle. I think the last one I did was less than $75 from Napa on my daughter’s Honda. Like I said, I have not had to deal with them on the ML, but on most vehicles, the worst case is that you have to totally remove the wheel hub. On some, it’s as easy as disconnecting the tie rod end and a lower ball joint to get enough movement of the hub.

One thing I do know is that the ML uses a snap ring on the axle where is goes into the differential. Removing axles with these keepers can be a real PITA. More importantly, when you re-install, it often requires some effort to get the axle fully inserted so that the ring fits back into its groove. On the Honda’s, I seem to recall it requiring hammering on the axle. I also seem to recall another vehicle having a special tool that would help pull it into place.

- RODNEY
 
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