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Metal split around check strap / Door removal

2965 Views 5 Replies 4 Participants Last post by  LIIRRA
To my horror, i've noticed a huge split around the check strap (i think that's what it's called) on the inside of the driver's door. It must've sneaked up on me! Is this a common problem with these heavy doors?

What is involved in door removal? Is the wiring conduit easy to disconnect etc? Any info on the procedure would be welcomed, as I'd like to weld it myself!
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W140 S class, E31 850Ci, XC90 Exec AWD geartronic
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To my horror, i've noticed a huge split around the check strap (i think that's what it's called) on the inside of the driver's door. It must've sneaked up on me! Is this a common problem with these heavy doors?

What is involved in door removal? Is the wiring conduit easy to disconnect etc? Any info on the procedure would be welcomed, as I'd like to weld it myself!
not a common problem. Sounds like your door has been over opened at some stage and then the crack has grown with usage. You will need to get it welded.
See my post on removing the door card and take it from there
 

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S500
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Reviving this old thread, but just had the same happen to me on the front passenger side door. The seam has completely split apart where the check strap attaches to the door, makes a hoorible cracking sound when the doors open. Taking the car to the shop to asess the work required to fix it. I'll post the remedy once all done.
 

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I've just done the check strap replacement on a rear door, and it is quite manageable.

First thing you need to do is order a new front door check strap from your local dealer. Cost me €25.

You then need to remove the door liner. This may be the tricky bit.

Essentially the liner is held in place with:-

-One plastic trim surrounding the lock mechanism (1 screw)

-One screw located in the recess of the armrest, and covered by a small plastic cap. Pry out cap with a small screwdriver, to reveal screw. Unscrew..

-2 screws located behind the curved wood trim. First pry out the wood trim from the side with the straight edge using a plastic flat implement to reveal 2 x 10mm hex screws. Remove screws

-Plastic poppers around the periphery of the door. Unpop them by prying gently using a flat plastic implement.

-Then lift the door liner away by upward movement so as to clear the door lock button (on top of liner)

-Disconnect the door handle link (thin metal rod) from the handle by pulling it sharply upwards.

-Disconnect the electrical window switch connector

-Disconnect the door light connector.

Door liner now OFF!

You will now need to remove (for me that meant 'tear') the moisture barrier to access the check strap body. This assembly is bolted in three positions, two on the inside wall of the door, just above and below the actual strap, and the third inside the moisture barrier.

On the other end of the strap attached to the door pillar, first remove the rubber boot. Then prise the circlip from the end of the retaining pin (don't let it fly!). Remove the pin by tapping gently with a hammer.

That's the removal first bit over. To replace, just work backwards.

With the correct tools, the remaval and replacement will take an amateur about 2-3 hours.

If you need help, just PM.

Ronan
 

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S500
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Thanks for that. I'm going to replace the other three check straps once I have the passenger door fixed. As I said, the welded seam has split where the strap enters the body of the door, as the door opens the check strap levers the split seam further apart making a nasty cracking noise. The door will have to come off as I can't see any way of getting a welding torch into the gap to fix the split, I'll probably end up having the door re-painted as well.

I'll let you know how it goes.
 

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Took the car to the garage last Monday to have a new n/s door mirror fitted, it took a light hit in a multistorey carpark a few weeks back and since would not fold in or adjust in and out.

Folding mirrors only come as a complete unit unfortunately ( although it's interesting to note that you can get the glass, folding motor and mirror adjustment mechanism seperately but not the frame)
Facelifted W140's appear to be fitted with w210 folding mirrors from '97 on we found out today, so quick swap at the parts counter - turns out to be a bit cheaper than a W140 mirror too - £211 inc vat.
On inspecting the door, it was found that the door check had ripped the door seam wide open and damaged the surrounding metal. No chance of welding it up as the glass runner is right behind and would have distorted through the heat.
So, second hand door required as a new one is £950. A good door was sourced for £200, now all the fittings from my original door have to transferred to the new one and the door painted. There's a lot of kit in a W140 door, seat electrics, airbag, speakers, soft closure stuff, glass etc...

I've been driving a Honda Civic this week to get me back and forth to work, what a noise box they are, the whole car acts as a sound box on the motorway!

With all the parts, all the check straps have been replaced, paint and labour charge I was looking at a £1600 bill this morning. I was faced with a choice to either pass out or laugh, I laughed - handed over my very flexible friend and drove away with a cheery smile and wave. Got home and poured a large Barcardi.

The paint job is a corker, I can't tell old paint from new, so I suspect the whole side of the car has been painted.

There may be a moral here, if your door check straps are stiff and noisy replace them quick, they are cheap enough.

Big Car, Big Bills.
[:(!]
 
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