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Discussion Starter #21 (Edited)
Injector Removal tool

Hi guys, I was surfing on the old net and came across this interesting tool, it is an injector removal tool and is available from a company called
www.fondera.co.uk

It costs about £136 and if it's good then it would be a hell of a lot of less trouble to get one and do your own vehicle as opposed to giving it to the dreaded Mercdads stealerships.

It is also being sold here :
MERCEDES VITO & SPRINTER IN-SITU INJECTOR REMOVAL TOOL on eBay Hand Tools, Garage Equipment Tools, Cars, Parts Vehicles (item 110152860766 end time 01-Aug-07 16:41:21 BST)

Anyone seen this or have one and can tell us if it is any good?

:thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter #22
How to Fix Little Dents

To fix a single dent (like the one pictured), it is probably not worth the time and paperwork it takes to fill out the insurance claim. Besides doing it your is easy enough --the tools won't cost much, and the instructions won't make your head spin.

You can bang out that dent, fill those nicks, and refinish that paint job with a body hammer and dolly, a sander with a 36-grit disc to remove paint, a putty knife and body filler squeegees to apply filler, a bodyworking file ("cheese grater") to level the filler, a stroke sander to smooth it, an air compressor and spray gun to apply primer/surfacer/paint, and a buffer to shine it all up. Thanks to today's body repair materials-better paints, improved fillers and two-part primer/surfacers-bodywork and painting to a mirrorlike finish has never been easier to do in your own shop.






Bang it out

To remove a dent, first gain access to the back side of the body panel by removing items like headlight buckets, inner fenders, door panels and interior trim. Then, place a dolly on the outside of the dent and then hammer on the inside of the dent, striking the metal against the dolly. The key is to go slowly and work around the circumference of the dent, banging it out until it lies just below the undamaged area. After the dent is out, put the dolly on the inside of the dent, then tap the area surrounding the outside of the dent to knock in any high spots.




Prep & Apply Filler

When you're sure all the sheetmetal is just slightly below the surface of the surrounding area, use a disc sander with 36-grit paper to remove all paint and primer from the dent and surrounding area. This will give the body filler a rough surface (called tooth) to hang on to once it has hardened. After thoroughly mixing the filler with hardener, smooth it on the damaged area with a plastic filler applicator. The filler semihardens in 10 to 15 minutes to the consistency of cheddar cheese.




 

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Discussion Starter #23
Continued...




Smoothdown & Sand Down Filler

At this point it's easy to smooth with a body file. Use the file to knock the filler down so it is slightly higher than the finished repair will be. After about 15 to 30 minutes, the filler becomes hard.At this point you can use a hand or air-powered stroke sander with 80-grit paper to bring the filler down to the level of the body. If you see any bright, shiny metal spots in or around the filler, those areas are high. Use the pointed (pick) end of a body hammer to tap them in slightly, then refill and resand.


 

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Discussion Starter #24
Continued.....



Prime & Surface

Before the repaired area can be painted, scratches, pits and waves must be completely removed or they'll show up as reflections. A primer/surfacer forms a thick layer of material over the area, which is then sanded down to make the repair smooth and level. Two-part primer/surfacers, consisting of the primer and a hardening agent, allow a thick layer to be applied over the repair in only one or two coats. After a half-hour of drying the primer is ready for sanding.

(Warning! Before applying any primer or paint, be sure to wear a respirator rated for organic solvents.)




 

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Discussion Starter #25
Continued....

Contrast paint the primer/surfacer

Before you sand, apply a light mist of black lacquer from a spray can over the repaired area. This contrast coating will reveal imperfections that will disappear as you sand. Make sure there is adequate ventilation, and also make sure that pilot lights and other flame sources in the general area are turned off.





Prep for Paint

To sand the primer, use a rubber sanding block and 400-grit waterproof sand paper. The trick is to sand lightly while frequently dipping the paper in a bucket of water to keep it clean. When all of the black contrast coat has disappeared, the repaired area is finished. Then clean and prepare the surface surrounding the repair to accept paint then wipe the entire panel with a solvent-based wax remover. Now, wetsand the area again to be painted with 600-grit waterproof sandpaper. If you're going to blend the paint into the original paint, make sure to sand an area larger than the area where you will be applying the paint. Thoroughly rinse the area, let it dry and then wipe again with wax remover. Mask off adjacent panels, then cover nearby wheels and major portions of the car with painter's plastic sheeting to shield it from overspray.




Paint


Mix the basecoat with the appropriate amount and type of solvent according to the maker's instructions. Before spraying, gently wipe the area to be painted with a tack rag, then spray the panel or repaired area. If you are blending, apply only enough basecoat to cover the repaired area, then taper off as you move away from the repair. After the basecoat has dried thoroughly, you'll notice its finish is quite dull. This is so the clearcoat will adhere tightly. Do not sand the basecoat before applying the clearcoat. After mixing the clearcoat with hardener, according to the manufacturer's instructions, apply a medium wet coat and let it flash dry 5 minutes or so before applying a second coat. After letting the clearcoat dry for an hour, remove all masking tape. Then wait one day before polishing.





Polish

Chances are the finish already looks pretty good. But to make it flawless, it pays to color-sand and polish the entire repair. Use 1500-grit sandpaper to flatten the finish, followed by rubbing compound to remove the scratches left by the sandpaper. Finish up with polishing compound to make the finish flawless. After polishing, wait one month to apply wax.

 

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Discussion Starter #26
Regular Maintenance
Checking the Brake Fluid Level
Checking the Brake Lights
Checking the Vehicle Lights
Checking the Tyre Pressures
Checking the Coolant Level
Checking the Fluid Level in the Automatic Transmission
Service every 6000 Miles
Additional Service Every 12,000 Miles
Additional Service every 36,000 Miles
FAULT FINDING SECTION
ENGINE FAULTS
GLOW PLUG FAULTS
LUBRICATION SYSTEM FAULTS
DIESEL FUEL SYSTEM FAULTS
CLUTCH FAULTS
STEERING FAULTS
BRAKE FAULTS
ELECTRICAL FAULTS

SEE ATTACHMENT ! :)
 

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Discussion Starter #27 (Edited)
Info on Vito

Hi Guys there is someone selling this info on eBay, so I thought I'd put it here. Not a lot but there, but may help someone. :)



Evolutions of Mercedes Benz Vito (2003 - Present):
Year
Change or development
1996
Vito launched. Pay load 1,000 Kg.
2000
New diesel engine available: common rail TD2.2 diesel to accompany 2.0 petrol engine.
2003
Heavily revised Vito. Now just has CtD2.2 diesel engine. Payload now 1,015 - 1,080 Kg.


Specific Engine Checks for Mercedes Benz Vito (2003 - Present):
Area
What to look for
What it means
What to do
Injectors
1) Check that the van starts easily from cold or warm. 2) Once the engine has been running for a few minutes, smell around the cab and engine for diesel or oil fumes. If you turn the cab fan on full this will suck any fumes into the cab which can be a good test.
If the engine turns over but doesn't start the most common reason is the injectors (sticking open). If you can smell fumes, then the injector seals have failed and lead to a build up of carbon above the injectors.
When buying Negotiate a £600 discount or have the repair completed.
Glow plug
Check that the glow plug lights comes on with the ignition and goes out after about 5 seconds.
If the glow plug stays illuminated, the plugs need to be replaced.
When buying Negotiate a £400 discount or have the repair completed.


Specific Interior Checks for Mercedes Benz Vito (2003 - Present):
Area
What to look for
What it means
What to do
Steering
Turn the steering wheel from lock to lock and listen for a squeak or groaning noise. Also notice if the steering appears to be snatching as it turns.
These symptoms suggest that a front suspension strut, top mount or steering rack bush need to be replaced.
Have the van inspected to establish which it is.
Gears
Check that the gears change relatively easily. It is a cable-based system so will be a little notchy but should not be too stiff.
The gearbox needs to be repaired (usualyy a cable replacement) or the clutch may need to be replaced.
Have the van inspected



Specific Suspension Checks for Mercedes Benz Vito (2003 - Present):
Area
What to look for
What it means
What to do
Front tyre
Inspect the outside edges of the nearside front tyre. The legal limit for tread depth is 1.6mm above the base of the groove across 75% of the tyre.
The the nearside front tyre (especially the outer edge) wears quicker than the rest of the tyres.
Rotate the tyres around the vehicle regularly to increase their life.
Anti-roll bar links
As you drive the car over rough surfaces or bumps (e.g. speed bumps) listen for a knocking noise coming from the suspension.
A knocking noise from the suspension usually indicates that an anti-roll bar link needs replacing.
Negotiate a £200 discount or have the repair completed.


Recall History of Mercedes Benz Vito (2003 - Present):
Date
Model
Recall
25 Sep 1998
Built: 01/01/1996 - 31/12/1998
Tyre tread may become detached from the carcass. VINs: VSA638 000001 to 123462.
01 Jul 2000

The handbrake button may become sticky in operation and in certain circumstances may result in self release of the handbrake.
08 Aug 2003

A component inside the air bag control unit may become defective - Air bag may not deploy in a collision.
30 Jul 2004

Mounting of the foot operated parking brake pedal, may permit the mounting to become loose and in extreme cases, the assembly may become detached from the mounting bracket.
17 Aug 2004

It is possible that the engine speed may reduce or in extreme cases shut down due to a software error in the engine management unit.
08 Jun 2005
Built: 01/11/2003 - 31/10/2004
The clevis pin which secures the brake master cylinder push rod to the brake pedal cross shaft may become detached, due to the possible non-fitment of the securing clip.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Installing and removing the armrests
Swing the armrests up.
Press the
swivel hinge of the armrest against the backrest and as you do so
pivot the armrest back by about 45°. The armrest can be removed in this
position. Cover the armrest socket with the appropriate caps.

To install, place the armrest into the socket in the 45° position - the unit may
otherwise be damaged. Press the swivel hinge gently against the backrest
and pivot the armrest forwards.
Note:
Do not use force when fitting or removing the armrests.



Regards
SARGE
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Auto Repair for Dummies *CAR GUiDE*

Auto Repair for Dummies *CAR GUiDE*







Auto Repair For Dummies is indispensable for anyone who is tired of nodding and smiling at the incomprehensible mutterings of your mechanic, only to end up shelling out money for repairs that you neither fully understand nor always need. This easy-to-understand guide is also for you if you:

* Don't have the vaguest idea of how a car works?
* Can't identify anything you see under the hood of your vehicle?
* Are tired of other people assuming (especially if you’re a teenager or a woman) that you aren’t capable of handling repairs yourself?
* Don't want to feel helpless in an emergency?
* Are tired of being ripped off because of your own ignorance?

This book shows you how your car works; what it needs in the way of tender loving care; and how to keep from being overcharged if you need to entrust repairs to someone else. By handling the simple maintenance and tune-ups and being able to diagnose trouble and perform the less complex repairs yourself, you’ll save some serious money.

Once you read this, you will carry out basic car repair and maintenance with confidence and ease.

download it from here:

RapidShare: 1-Click Webhosting

Sarge
 

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Discussion Starter #30



Car PC Hacks
By Damien Stolarz
...............................................
Publisher: O'Reilly
Pub Date: July 2005
ISBN: 0-596-00871-6
Pages: 382


A car PC or carputer is a car tricked-out with electronics for playing radio, music and DVD movies, connecting to the Internet, navigating and tracking with satellite, taking photos, and any electronic gadget a person wants in a car. All these devices are managed and controlled through a single screen or interface. The only place car PC enthusiasts can go for advice, tips and tools is a handful of hard-to-find Web sites--until now. Car PC Hacks is your guide into the car PC revolution.

Packing MP3 players, handheld devices, computers and video-on-demand systems gives you a pile too heavy to carry. But add a car and put them together, you've got a powerful and mobile multimedia center requiring no lifting. The next time you give kids a lift, you won't hear, "Are we there yet?" Instead, expect "We're there already?" as they won't want to leave the car while playing video games from multiple consoles.

Car PC Hacks is the first book available to introduce and entrench you into this hot new market. You can count on the book because it hails from O'Reilly, a trusted resource for technical books. Expect innovation, useful tools, and fun experiments that you've come to expect from O'Reilly's Hacks Series.

Maybe you've hacked computers and gadgets, and now you're ready to take it to your car. If hacking is new and you would like to mix cars and computers, this book gets you started with its introduction to the basics of car electrical systems. Even when you're unclear on the difference between amps and watts, expect a clear explanation along with real-life examples to get on track. Whether you're venturing into car PC for the first time or an experienced hobbyist, hop in the book for a joy ride.


Download:
Code:RapidShare: 1-Click Webhosting

Sarge
 

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electrical problems on V 220 cdi

hi everybody , i m newer on this forum.

i have a problem on my V 220 cdi , i have 1 problem but all this circuits who doesnt function.

in the begining when i start my car i had all this problems :

-the instrument panel doesnt go on
-my rear window heater doesnt function
-my front light stay light on alarm when you open the door doesnt function
-the auto door close when you drive at 30 km/h doesnt function.


but when the temperature in the car reach 25 degres all refunction normally.

i m sure that it will be a wire who is cut or a relay who begins to be out .

since 6 months , all doesnt function , the wire or the relay is probably out now

if someone has had this problem or could help me , it will be great .

i wait for your anwers

jp
 

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fuel pump sprinter 2500

Hi , someone can tell me where is locate the fuel pump. and what is the electrical plug in the fuel filter
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Removal of Pollen Filter

Thanks to Nugg - I thought I'd re-post this info in here to keep all 'How To's' together in one place, for easier find.

Removal of Pollen Filter
Rating: A bit taxing. Frustrations factor:Skinned knuckles
I got these pics from a japanese website www.v-style.jp, bless them. If you are not getting any joy out of your van vents then it's usually the pollen filter that's rammed full of gunk.
The pollen filter is located beneath the console and is quite hard to get at.
(1) Remove the air vent trim at both offside and nearside footwells and the console vent at the base of the centre console. All these are cosmetic items and are held on by plastic fasteners which can be unscrewed by hand. You might need a short flat-bladed screwdriver for the console vent.
(2) Using a 13 mm socket remove the bolts at the end of the bar marked with an x below (this is the bar that holds the clutch return spring in place. If you are confused as to which bar it is, follow your clutch pedal to the spring and it's right there.

(3) Using a 13 mm socket remove the bolt holding the clutch return spring to the clutch pedal. You might need to use a pair of mole grips or pliers to prevent the stud from rotating as you undo the nut.
(4) The bar should then be removed by tapping it up, with even blows either side of the bar with the ball of your hand or a plastic-headed mallet. Note, the end of the bars are grooved and can only be moved in one direction up or down. Remove the bar completely.
(5) Behind the bar there is a plastic cover on the pollen filter with a lug in the middle. Slide this cover using the lug until it comes free from the filter.

(6) The filter is exposed beneath. Pull this down and in order to remove it from the housing.



Note, the filter is split in the middle and can be bent during removal.

Refitting is the reverse of removal however the wiring always seems to interfere with the fitting of the filter. I left mine out since I don't have hay fever.
 

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Great thread, the guide for the pollen filter is spot one, did mine today and air flow is much better.

Just got to sort my electrics now...think its a fault with drivers side door as interior light doesn't come on when i open it, but does with passenger side, and also the central locking does the old lock, unlock routine. A loose or disconnected wire i'm presuming?

Also it appears that the prelim heater/diesel burner thing doesn't seem to kick in, and the warning triangle stays on and doesn't dissappear like it used to. Is this likely to be linked to the driver door electrical fault? Or is it more likely to be a different fault?

Any help would be great.

Thanks,

Dan.
 

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Discussion Starter #37 (Edited)
Great thread, the guide for the pollen filter is spot one, did mine today and air flow is much better.

Just got to sort my electrics now...think its a fault with drivers side door as interior light doesn't come on when i open it, but does with passenger side,

Check page 2 of this thread, the driver door light switch, seems to corrode at the contact point, clean it up with sand paper or the like.

and also the central locking does the old lock, unlock routine. A loose or disconnected wire i'm presuming?

We had a collegue here who recently had same issue and discovered that the switch in the tailgate had broken off causing the system to 're-open when locking is attempted, however this is also caused by other problems like broken wiring in the 'through' door butts.

Also it appears that the prelim heater/diesel burner thing doesn't seem to kick in, and the warning triangle stays on and doesn't dissappear like it used to. Is this likely to be linked to the driver door electrical fault? Or is it more likely to be a different fault?

Not quite sure as to your question here, but I would have thought the drivers door fault is a seperate issue.


Thanks,

SARGE
 

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and also the central locking does the old lock, unlock routine. A loose or disconnected wire i'm presuming?

We had a collegue here who recently had same issue and discovered that the switch in the tailgate had broken off causing the system to 're-open when locking is attempted, however this is also caused by other problems like broken wiring in the 'through' door butts.
On my current van this happens from time to time and just scraping the corrosion off the contacts on one of the sliding doors sorts it. Never heard of anyone else having this problem but thought I'd mention it as it would be easy to check. There are two contact on each sliding door each consisting of two sprung pins on the door that connect against a plate on the door frame. The pins and plate are brass coloured.
 

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Cheers for the replies and PM, i'll have a look at the points mentioned.

Sarge, with regards to the confusing point; on the diesel you have to wait for the warning triangle to disappear on the dash after putting the key in the ignition before starting. This is presumably some sort of initial burner or sensor or something on the diesel, as with petrols you can just start it up right away.

The problem being now that the light does not disappear, so you just have to ignore it and start it anyway. I was wondering if anyone had any experience with this, don't want to be damaging anything by overriding the controls/ignoring the lights!
 

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Discussion Starter #40
Cheers for the replies and PM, i'll have a look at the points mentioned.

Sarge, with regards to the confusing point; on the diesel you have to wait for the warning triangle to disappear on the dash after putting the key in the ignition before starting. This is presumably some sort of initial burner or sensor or something on the diesel, as with petrols you can just start it up right away.

The problem being now that the light does not disappear, so you just have to ignore it and start it anyway. I was wondering if anyone had any experience with this, don't want to be damaging anything by overriding the controls/ignoring the lights!


I think you are referring to the Glow Plugs that pre-heat the cylinders, that symbol/light on the dash is not the triangle, it is a sqiggly wire. (have a look at the book pictures above).
The triangle is ASR ( also in book pic )
 
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