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w639 Ignition Wiring for Turbo Timer

Hey all,

I got this question going in the V-class forum, didn't realize this thread existed till now so I apologize for posting twice but hopefully someone in this thread may be able to help...

Im looking at installing a turbo timer in my 2005 w639 109 TD vito and needed to know possibly the best way to install. Normally id just hook straight into the back of the ignition as i can pick up the constant 12v there, but i need to know what the ignition wire color is? Or is there a better way/more recommended way to install?

Whether it makes a difference or not, the timer im looking at installing is a HKS Type 0.

Much appreciated.
Adam
 

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Hey all,

I got this question going in the V-class forum, didn't realize this thread existed till now so I apologize for posting twice but hopefully someone in this thread may be able to help...

Im looking at installing a turbo timer in my 2005 w639 109 TD vito and needed to know possibly the best way to install. Normally id just hook straight into the back of the ignition as i can pick up the constant 12v there, but i need to know what the ignition wire color is? Or is there a better way/more recommended way to install?

Whether it makes a difference or not, the timer im looking at installing is a HKS Type 0.

Much appreciated.
Adam

G'day mate, diesels 'generally' don't need a timer or much idle down time unless you have been giving it a 'real' hard time and then want to turn off the key as the exhaust temps are quite a bit lower on a diesel than a petrol car.
But if you want to fit a timer, you could use a multi meter on the back of the ignition barrel and find the correct wire, cut it, and fit the corresponding wires from the timer to the ign wire
 

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G'day mate, diesels 'generally' don't need a timer or much idle down time unless you have been giving it a 'real' hard time and then want to turn off the key as the exhaust temps are quite a bit lower on a diesel than a petrol car.
But if you want to fit a timer, you could use a multi meter on the back of the ignition barrel and find the correct wire, cut it, and fit the corresponding wires from the timer to the ign wire
G'day mate,

ahh see ive heard the opposite, got a couple of mates that are diesel mechanics and they both recommend as timers are designed to cool down the oil the runs thru the turbo i think...

"Turbo engine manufacturers recommend that, after a brisk run, their engines be idled for a few minutes to allow the Turbocharger to slow down, cool and normalise while maintaining a flow of fresh engine oil to its bearings. This routine, if followed at every switch-off, will extend Turbo life and significantly reduce the likelihood of premature Turbocharger failure."

So whether or not it will help or not lol, cant hurt, as for the finding the wire, its not like a traditional barrel where u only have 4 or so wires on the back, this ignition has about 20 odd wires comeing out the back, and there are multiple wires that have 12v applied when the key is turned. Not as simple as sticking a voltmeter on a couple of wires, trust mercedes to make this hard! lol.
 

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G'day mate,

ahh see ive heard the opposite, got a couple of mates that are diesel mechanics and they both recommend as timers are designed to cool down the oil the runs thru the turbo i think...

"Turbo engine manufacturers recommend that, after a brisk run, their engines be idled for a few minutes to allow the Turbocharger to slow down, cool and normalise while maintaining a flow of fresh engine oil to its bearings. This routine, if followed at every switch-off, will extend Turbo life and significantly reduce the likelihood of premature Turbocharger failure."

So whether or not it will help or not lol, cant hurt, as for the finding the wire, its not like a traditional barrel where u only have 4 or so wires on the back, this ignition has about 20 odd wires comeing out the back, and there are multiple wires that have 12v applied when the key is turned. Not as simple as sticking a voltmeter on a couple of wires, trust mercedes to make this hard! lol.
It won't hurt anything by letting it run for a bit before switching off and would be more necessary for 'after a brisk run'.
As for the wiring, merc has very over complicated their wiring on just about everything and makes it very hard to trace any faults and add accessories.

Search search search, this forum, google, It will be out there somewhere, Ive spent probably hundreds of hours researching forums and google for car stuff. :thumbsup:
 

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It wont anything by letting it run for a bit before switching off and would be more necessary for 'after a brisk run'.
As for the wiring, merc has very over complicated their wiring on just about everything and makes it very hard to trace any faults and add accessories.

Search search search, this forum, google, It will be out there somewhere, Ive spent probably hundreds of ours researching forums and google for car stuff. :thumbsup:
I do give my car a hard time, so wouldnt be a bad thing to put one in. Yeah ive worked on a few mercs now, Vito, c180, c63, and nothing has been easy but seem to get thru it no worries, this is the first speedhump ive hit, when Mr Bosch invented Canbus i dont think he had people like us in mind lol yeah done shit load of searching, only found info for a w638, which is different wiring to the 639 so doesnt really help me.
 

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What a great thread.

Fixed the door wiring, rear LED light and tailgate wiring :)

I have a W639 109 2005 Vito 2.2 Diesel.

Never overheats in traffic at low speeds but the overheat light and warning beeper comes on at 90-100 kms/hr. I slow down to 80 and it goes away.

I suspect the viscous fan but wanted to know if the electric fans come on at high temp?

Thanks in advance

Pete
 

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Hi, thanks for a great thread!
Looking for help/input, please.

I have a W638 where the AC clutch wont activate (compressor itself spins freely).
With the fan at zero position, pushing the AC button, the fan starts, so button is ok.
Ive disconnected the wire that goes to the clutch and measuring it to 11,8V.
However if I push the AC button to OFF, it still feeds 11,8? I would have expected it to be zero when button is OFF, no?

Edit:
I just fed it directly from a battery, clutch clicks, and with engine running compressor spins.
So somethings up with the feed from the vehicle...

I tried an old battery with a voltage of just 10,5V and that clicks too, so Im really puzzled why the vehicles feed at 11,8V wont do it?
Not enough current available perhaps, I didnt measure it under load.´
Are there any fuses or relays in the AC system?
 

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It seems you may have already figure out your issue. Like you stated you have 11.8v buy you may not have the current to operate. Remeasure the voltage under load and see if it drops. You can also place a meter set for current in series with the load and check your amperage too.

Good Luck,
Marlon
 

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It seems you may have already figure out your issue. Like you stated you have 11.8v buy you may not have the current to operate. Remeasure the voltage under load and see if it drops. You can also place a meter set for current in series with the load and check your amperage too.

Good Luck,
Marlon
Any response is a good one, thanks!

I have two questions following.
-If I force the clutch to engage will the AC come on? I think so but Id like it confirmed.
-If not enough current, any idea what could cause this to happen?
When it stopped working it was in for service, but I have a hard time thinking it was anything related to that. I havent found fuses or relays related to this, but if there is please let me know.
 

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Hey all, a really good thread this, so I will ask this in here as well.

A short circuited my radio/12v circuit a few weeks ago from the rear interior light. i then melted the wires by using the wrong fuse. I snipped the rear interior light wires right down to where they combine with the rear o/s cluster. The issue' I have now:

I can only use my radio fully etc when I put in it's 20a fuse but if I do, the n/s front and rear light go on along with the reverse lights - with no key in the van no ignition, nothing.

The radio etc also activates when I put the van into reverse gear.

So for me to have on the radio and to use 12v sockets/ lights blah blah I have to put in the fuse every time i get in the van and switch on my lights one notch for dims, so all four lights are on not just the n/s lights. - I then have to remove the 20a fuse when i park up and I have had to remove the reverse light bulbs too so I can use radio.

Anyyyyy suggestions "/

Thank you kindly
 

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Hey all, a really good thread this, so I will ask this in here as well.

A short circuited my radio/12v circuit a few weeks ago from the rear interior light. i then melted the wires by using the wrong fuse. I snipped the rear interior light wires right down to where they combine with the rear o/s cluster. The issue' I have now:

I can only use my radio fully etc when I put in it's 20a fuse but if I do, the n/s front and rear light go on along with the reverse lights - with no key in the van no ignition, nothing.

The radio etc also activates when I put the van into reverse gear.

So for me to have on the radio and to use 12v sockets/ lights blah blah I have to put in the fuse every time i get in the van and switch on my lights one notch for dims, so all four lights are on not just the n/s lights. - I then have to remove the 20a fuse when i park up and I have had to remove the reverse light bulbs too so I can use radio.

Anyyyyy suggestions "/

Thank you kindly

Ok so still nothing in response form from anyone in this thread or others, so far none of the fuses are now blown anywhere. The cable run fine and un altered from the rear to the battery. However, i still have the cut rear interior light cables just handing about not attached to anything, would this be causing my problem or have I damage the fuse board under the steering wheel?!? Would love some info on this as so far my vans having good camper van progress and just this holding it back!!

CHEERS
 

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What cables have you got which have been cut ?? one of them may be can bus and could be affecting other things. Short of that its likely to be a faulty control module . Or a misconnection somewhere which means backfeeding through some other part of the electrical system. If i was you i would take it to an indy and get them to put it onto STAR and find out whats going on.

Nick
 

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Discussion Starter #254 (Edited)
Hey all, a really good thread this, so I will ask this in here as well.

A short circuited my radio/12v circuit a few weeks ago from the rear interior light. i then melted the wires by using the wrong fuse. I snipped the rear interior light wires right down to where they combine with the rear o/s cluster. The issue' I have now:

I can only use my radio fully etc when I put in it's 20a fuse but if I do, the n/s front and rear light go on along with the reverse lights - with no key in the van no ignition, nothing.

The radio etc also activates when I put the van into reverse gear.

So for me to have on the radio and to use 12v sockets/ lights blah blah I have to put in the fuse every time i get in the van and switch on my lights one notch for dims, so all four lights are on not just the n/s lights. - I then have to remove the 20a fuse when i park up and I have had to remove the reverse light bulbs too so I can use radio.

Anyyyyy suggestions "/

Thank you kindly

Hi Pal, You have two or more wires that are shorted (probably at several points along the wires if they have melted) somewhere, go back along the entire wiring loom/s to see where they are damaged.

Your clues are: shorted circuit, replaced with higher rated fuse = melted wires, power is being supplied to wrong/lighting circuits, when you put into reverse, your radio activates, you've obviously done damage to wiring after using wrongly rated fuse.

Never use wrong rating of fuse, this is what happens unfortunately.


Go back through wiring , I expect it'll be damaged in several places, Hope you get it sorted.


Cheers
Sarge
 

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What cables have you got which have been cut ?? one of them may be can bus and could be affecting other things. Short of that its likely to be a faulty control module . Or a misconnection somewhere which means backfeeding through some other part of the electrical system. If i was you i would take it to an indy and get them to put it onto STAR and find out whats going on.

Nick
Cables cut are the 3 cables that went to the horrid damaging rear interior light. My van is an 03 mk1. I've narrowed it down to either the three cables need to be reconnected to "something" and or I have done some melt damage to the back of the steering wheel fuse board...
 

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I suspect it is the fuseboard behind the steering wheel , melted cables linking several circuits together.

As Sarge said trace cables look for melted together bits .

Nick
 

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Cable colours cigar lighter wiring spec

Hi I'm a newb to this just read the whole topic. Loads of useful info!!!

I'm looking to add in a dual 12v supply above the dash by adding into the wires supplying the cigar lighter.
But I can't seem to find a wiring diagram for the lighter/12v supply or and colour coding for the supply.

There are 3 cables going into the back of the connector one brown and 2 red/yellow .

I'm assuming the brown is the earth and the red yellow 12v supply.

My question is do I need to cut into both supplies (for load /amps) or is it just a serial supply heading in there and out again.

The dual supply will be to power reversing sensor display unit only and periodically charge an iPhone.
 

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Thanks to Sparkydude for providing wiring diagram that indeed showed the pink/yellow as the supply from 15a fuse and the brown as the ground.
2 supply wires as leads onto the bulb illumination from the actual lighter
 

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2 small problems

Hi to all,

I have recently become the owner of a 2004 vito 115 cdi w639 and I have two questions,

1. after a long trip a warning light comes on which is a icon of a oil can and the word Hi but only after a decent length of trip (around 1 hour) on trips less than this there is no warning.

2. I have been trying to find the wiring diagram for the radio connections as I am in the process of fitting a carputer that has DAB radio GPS and reversing camera display etc and I cannot find the AUX connection or the reversing signal wire.

I have bought a copy of the Mercedes DVD's (WIS / ASRA & EPC Dealer Service Repair Workshop Manual 1986-2014) but I am having trouble trying to find the relevant wiring diagrams as there are so many sub menu items to go through I keep ending up nowhere near where i wanted to be.

thanks in advance for any help.

Regards Poppy Ann.
 
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