MB E320 2002 AC Blows warm air from Drivers Side

29784 Views 40 Replies 16 Participants Last post by tony1963tony, 11 mo ago

Feroze

Discussion Starter · Sep 8, 2012

2

I have a 2002 E320 and it has 10,755 miles on the odometer. I don't drive the car too often. I decided to drive the car today and turned the air-conditioning on and put in on automatic climate control. Just noticed that the air is blowing out cold from the passenger side vents but blowing out warn from Driver’s side vents. I even tried the Manuel mode instead of climate control. Any one knows about this solution or problem. I purchased the car brand new in December 2002 and also purchased a full 8 years extended warranty. But now all the warranties are expired and the vehicle has only 10, 755 miles and still smells and looks like a brand new automobile. The battery is still the original and gives no problem.

Any suggestions why it is blowing warm air from Drivers side vents when the air is on and the temperature set and 65 F
:crybaby2:

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21 - 40 of 41 Posts

fabbrisd1

· #21 · Sep 10, 2012

The OP has a great car... after the aircon gets evac'd and recharged..

If you ever get to a retail auto parts store - or a Walmart - buy a bottle of Stabil Ethanol Marine formula fuel treatment - and dose the tank before your next fillup per the intructions on the bottle. That $9 bottle will be approximately 2 does.

The Stabil helps a lot of things with regard to your fuel system, including preventing corrosion issues with the fuel tanks sensor - I use it on all my cars including my own low milers in my stable (pun).

Per the diagnostic info battery seesm to be holding steady as well.

Since it has been 10 years - the original MB coolant is losing its anti-corrosive properties - and it would be prudent for long term care to have the coolant changes to MB-Coolant/Xerex G-05 and ONLY use distilled water if you need add water to the mix.

The engine interior components are a real electrolisis waiting to happen caused by dissimilar metals. Fresh coolant will keep nasty things from happening.

If you do ever lose battery power after long periods of non-use - please be familair with the reset procedures in the owner's manual including having your radio code handy. Lost power, and not properly resetting the access systems when you get power back - also leads to more costly things.

Great car - keep the beat !

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fabbrisd1

· #22 · Sep 10, 2012

Surprised the MB dealer/tech didn't mention fresh coolant - your dealer isn't really a great resource for proper preventative/future-issue-avoiding maintenance for low annual mileage MB's..

Feroze

Discussion Starter · #23 · Sep 13, 2012

Hi,

I got the air conditioner working now. It was low in Freon. I took it to my mechanic who hates working on Mercedes and he did me a favor. It cost me $91.00, which includes his $9.00 labor and 2.2 Lbs. of Freon.

mb_sanket

· #24 · Nov 15, 2012

Hi Skippy, I was having similar problem about my ac. I don't have ac at all in my car, mechanic says condenser is leaky. He used the machine to vacuum out presser and try to look for leak, he says he hears hissing sound near condenser. Any way following this thread make me to try check up in my car. As you mention about no. 7 --I have " o " reading on that one.
Here is all the reading.

1 - 77
2 - 56
3 - 109
4 - 74
5 - 52
6 - 131
7 - 0
8 - 55
9 - 0
10 - 0.8
11 - 2.6
12 - 3.8
20 - 0
21 - 7
22 - 0
23 - 0
24 - 14.0
40 - 6
41 - 3
42 - 73
43 - 136

I hope you have time for this. I see lot of '0' reading.
Could you look for me this please.
Thanks.

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SkippyJasper

· #25 · Nov 15, 2012

Mb_sanket,

Usually best to start new thread so everyone sees your questions.
My experience would suggest a new condenser, dryer and hose are needed along with a normal A/C recharge. If the mechanic can hear hissing it's a pretty good clue there's a leak nearby.
As for your readings a couple of observations:
Presuming they are in degrees F.
Duo-valve (3 & 4) usually are closer though it is dependent on what the interior settings are set to.
Channel 6 is coolant temp and it seems low (would expect 180-190).
Channel 24 is system voltage and it seems high (would expect 13.1 to 13.5). The actual voltage is about 0.6 in addition to what is displayed which suggests your car is producing 14.6.
Of course these comments are based on a snapshot given your readings. Could be many reasons that they are OK, but that's what I see at the moment.
HTH, Skippy

Sent from my iPhone using AutoGuide.com App

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Feroze

Discussion Starter · #26 · Jun 22, 2013 (Edited)

June 22, 2013

Hi every one!

My 2002 Mercedes Benz which now has almost 11,000 miles. When I start the engine and turn on the air-conditioned to full blast, it blows very cold air from all the vents which includes THE FRONT MIDDLE TWO CENTER VENTS, Driver Left Vent, Passenger Right Vent and the Rear Vent which is located behind the driver and passenger seats.

The FRONT MIDDLE TWO CENTER VENTS cold air comes out for approximately two to three minutes and then it shuts off completely. I can hear the blower running but no cold air comes out. The temperature is set at 72 F. The front diver side left vent and front passenger side right vents cold air comes out at full blast. Is this normal? Please note that all the vents are open.

How would I get the cold air come out from The FRONT MIDDLE TWO CENTER VENTS. I have tried in manual mode and also in automatic temperature control mode . The outside temperature is 85 F. Please explain me in details .Thanks!

Azeemmahboob

· #27 · Jul 9, 2014

SkippyJasper said:
Feroze,

First of all - nice looking car!

The warm air on the drivers side often indicates low A/C refrigerant.

There is a useful test you can perform that will aid in diagnosis.

On your climate control console, press and hold the REST button until the display changes to a 1 on the left and another number on the right (10 seconds or so). This places the HVAC system into a diagnotic mode.
Pressing the left side Auto button will change the left side channel 1,2,3,..etc. Run through the channels and record the right side numbers and post them here.

When you run the test make sure the engine has been running for 5 minutes or so and keep it running during the test. When you are done press the REST button to restore the usual display or turn the car off.

Here's what the different channels represent and sample numbers:
1 (Inside Temp): 82
2 (Outside Temp): 76
3 (Left Heater Core Temp): 82 and later 114
4 (Right Heater Core Temp): 84 and later 107
5 (Evaporator Temp): 80
6 (Engine Coolant Temp): 186
7 (Refrigerant Pressure): 04
8 (Refrigerant Temp): 91
9 (irrelevant)
10 (Blower Control Voltage) 6.0V
11 (Emission Sensor) 2.4V
12 Sun Sensor: 4.1V
20 Control Current for Auxiliary Fan: 3.2mA (Is this value too low?)
21 Engine Speed: 44 or 4,400rpm
22 Vehicle Speed: 0 (makes sense to me)
23 Terminal 58d: 32 or 32%
24 Battery Voltage: 13.3V
40 Software Status: 164
41 Hardware Status: 85
42 ???: 40
43 ???: 136

Skippy

Dear skippy,

My W211 2003 Avangarde
Since I'm in KSA the temp here is normally 45 degree Celsius , my car is also giving the same problem . Colder air in the passenger side while the air in the driver side is warmer

I tried the trick you suggested ... But my car is showing channels up to 70 71 72 and so on.....

Feroze

Discussion Starter · #28 · Jul 9, 2014

I tried all that you have specified but still the same .

Thebaigaamir

· #29 · Jul 11, 2014

Hey brother does the air stop coming from the centre vent completely?

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television

· #30 · Jul 11, 2014

Once again if one side of the car is warmer than the other side it is always the duo valve at fault they fail in the warm mod and eventually the hot mode, there is nothing else to it, the aircon may mask the issue

Thebaigaamir

· #31 · Jul 11, 2014

Theres also a vaccum line that goes through the back of the engine and the firewall into the dashboard area its connected to this piece of gray platic pipe it controls the gates of the centre flap unit from the hvac system.Saw this common fault they vaccum line dries and tends to break .

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Feroze

Discussion Starter · #32 · Jul 11, 2014

Hi every one!

My 2002 Mercedes Benz which now has almost 11,000 miles. When I start the engine and turn on the air-conditioned to full blast, it blows very cold air from all the vents which includes THE FRONT MIDDLE TWO CENTER VENTS, Driver Left Vent, Passenger Right Vent and the Rear Vent which is located behind the driver and passenger seats.

The FRONT MIDDLE TWO CENTER VENTS cold air comes out for approximately two to three minutes and then it shuts off completely. I can hear the blower running but no cold air comes out. The temperature is set at 72 F. The front diver side left vent and front passenger side right vents cold air comes out at full blast. Is this normal? Please note that all the vents are open.

How would I get the cold air come out from The FRONT MIDDLE TWO CENTER VENTS. I have tried in manual mode and also in automatic temperature control mode .. Please explain me in details .Thanks!

I have tried this also and I had flushed the freon and installed the fresh new freon:

The warm air on the drivers side often indicates low A/C refrigerant.

There is a useful test you can perform that will aid in diagnosis.

On your climate control console, press and hold the REST button until the display changes to a 1 on the left and another number on the right (10 seconds or so). This places the HVAC system into a diagnotic mode.
Pressing the left side Auto button will change the left side channel 1,2,3,..etc. Run through the channels and record the right side numbers and post them here.

When you run the test make sure the engine has been running for 5 minutes or so and keep it running during the test. When you are done press the REST button to restore the usual display or turn the car off.

Here's what the different channels represent and sample numbers:
1 (Inside Temp): 82
2 (Outside Temp): 76
3 (Left Heater Core Temp): 82 and later 114
4 (Right Heater Core Temp): 84 and later 107
5 (Evaporator Temp): 80
6 (Engine Coolant Temp): 186
7 (Refrigerant Pressure): 04
8 (Refrigerant Temp): 91
9 (irrelevant)
10 (Blower Control Voltage) 6.0V
11 (Emission Sensor) 2.4V
12 Sun Sensor: 4.1V
20 Control Current for Auxiliary Fan: 3.2mA (Is this value too low?)
21 Engine Speed: 44 or 4,400rpm
22 Vehicle Speed: 0 (makes sense to me)
23 Terminal 58d: 32 or 32%
24 Battery Voltage: 13.3V
40 Software Status: 164
41 Hardware Status: 85
42 : 40
43 136

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Feroze

Discussion Starter · #33 · Jul 12, 2014

Here is the reading on the test I did this morning of July 12, 2014. I had flushed the old freon and installed the fresh freon on September 2012 , never ran the vehicle last year, it has 10,830 miles now

1 (Inside Temp): 82
2 (Outside Temp): 94
3 (Left Heater Core Temp): 89
4 (Right Heater Core Temp): 80
5 (Evaporator Temp): 89
6 (Engine Coolant Temp): 186
7 (Refrigerant Pressure): 06
8 (Refrigerant Temp): 112
9 (irrelevant): 27
10 (Blower Control Voltage) 6.0V
11 (Emission Sensor) 1.8
12 Sun Sensor: 4.2V
20 Control Current for Auxiliary Fan: 3.2mA
21 Engine Speed: 42
22 Vehicle Speed: 00
23 Terminal 58d: 32 or 32%
24 Battery Voltage: 13.3V
40 Software Status: 164
41 Hardware Status: 91
42 : 40
43 136

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hardcorp84

· #34 · Sep 29, 2019

Feroze said:
Hi every one!

My 2002 Mercedes Benz which now has almost 11,000 miles. When I start the engine and turn on the air-conditioned to full blast, it blows very cold air from all the vents which includes THE FRONT MIDDLE TWO CENTER VENTS, Driver Left Vent, Passenger Right Vent and the Rear Vent which is located behind the driver and passenger seats.

The FRONT MIDDLE TWO CENTER VENTS cold air comes out for approximately two to three minutes and then it shuts off completely. I can hear the blower running but no cold air comes out. The temperature is set at 72 F. The front diver side left vent and front passenger side right vents cold air comes out at full blast. Is this normal? Please note that all the vents are open.

How would I get the cold air come out from The FRONT MIDDLE TWO CENTER VENTS. I have tried in manual mode and also in automatic temperature control mode .. Please explain me in details .Thanks!

I have tried this also and I had flushed the freon and installed the fresh new freon:

The warm air on the drivers side often indicates low A/C refrigerant.

There is a useful test you can perform that will aid in diagnosis.

On your climate control console, press and hold the REST button until the display changes to a 1 on the left and another number on the right (10 seconds or so). This places the HVAC system into a diagnotic mode.
Pressing the left side Auto button will change the left side channel 1,2,3,..etc. Run through the channels and record the right side numbers and post them here.

When you run the test make sure the engine has been running for 5 minutes or so and keep it running during the test. When you are done press the REST button to restore the usual display or turn the car off.

Here's what the different channels represent and sample numbers:
1 (Inside Temp): 82
2 (Outside Temp): 76
3 (Left Heater Core Temp): 82 and later 114
4 (Right Heater Core Temp): 84 and later 107
5 (Evaporator Temp): 80
6 (Engine Coolant Temp): 186
7 (Refrigerant Pressure): 04
8 (Refrigerant Temp): 91
9 (irrelevant)
10 (Blower Control Voltage) 6.0V
11 (Emission Sensor) 2.4V
12 Sun Sensor: 4.1V
20 Control Current for Auxiliary Fan: 3.2mA (Is this value too low?)
21 Engine Speed: 44 or 4,400rpm
22 Vehicle Speed: 0 (makes sense to me)
23 Terminal 58d: 32 or 32%
24 Battery Voltage: 13.3V
40 Software Status: 164
41 Hardware Status: 85
42 : 40
43 136

hardcorp84

· #35 · Sep 29, 2019

Hi everyone. I have the same problem with air warm on drivers side but cool on passengers. I have recharge my coolant which wasn't too low. Took apart the duo valve it's clean and clicks when the connections touch. My hvac results are as follows I am clueless what it could be.

1 38
2 36
3 37
4 24
5 48
6 98
7 23
8 73
9 02
10 6.0
11 2.8
12 3.8
20 10
21 06
22 0
23 0
24 12.8
40 71
41 34
42 72
43 152

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mrboca

· #36 · Sep 29, 2019

Hello

Unfortunately you have followed the advice "if not cooling, add more refrigerant" approach, and you may have far too much refrigerant in the system.

I suggest you get a good a/c manifold gauge (well-calibrated) and measure the low side with the engine off and cooled down overnight, and then after the engine and a/c is running and stabilized ( 5 minutes or so), and post here.

For static pressure, you should have about the same number as the refrigerant ambient (which is the same as the outside temp after overnight cooling), at both high and low sides. So if you have 80 degrees F you should have 80 psi ballpark which is 80/14.5 = between 5 to 6 bars of pressure at item 7.

Depending on the results at the low side, you may have a blockage at the high side or continuously open expansion valve (or something else that may come up after further investigation).

Kajtek1

· #37 · Sep 30, 2019

After overnight stay low and high side are the same, so no need for outside pressure gauges. You can read the pressure on climatronic and keep you hand clean.
Still proper procedure would be start with calibration test.

163skidoo

· #38 · Oct 18, 2019

hardcorp84 said:
Hi everyone. I have the same problem with air warm on drivers side but cool on passengers. I have recharge my coolant which wasn't too low. Took apart the duo valve it's clean and clicks when the connections touch. My hvac results are as follows I am clueless what it could be.

1 38
2 36
3 37
4 24
5 48
6 98
7 23
8 73
9 02
10 6.0
11 2.8
12 3.8
20 10
21 06
22 0
23 0
24 12.8
40 71
41 34
42 72
43 152

Before you start trying to shove refrigerant down your low pressure port, or take apart your duo valve, or tear out your dash and airbag thinking it's your air flap or air blend motor/acuator, or start messing with your PSE near your battery under your back seat, or even freaking out about some codes that may or may not have been cleared on the climate control system, do yourself a favor and start with an evacuation, recovery and recharge of your a/c system with an A/C Specialist and a Professional A/C machine that is easier and more accurate than manifold guages, it's the cheapest and easiest place to start and 9 times out of 10 it will cure the issue as something as little as being undercharged (DON'T TRUST THE CHEAP A/C GAUGES THAT COME WITH THE CAN AND HOSE FROM THE CHEAP AUTO PARTS STORE/SECTION) can cause the issue I refer to. The evacuation part is probably the most important as it removes excess moisture and debris, filtering the freon as it is recovered and before refilling with clean freon. I had the same exact issue with the passenger side blowing cool and the driver's side blowing warm as many have had and is a very common issue. My a/c guy's machine took less than 15 minutes and only $60 to fix this common issue. Start with an evac/recovery/recharge and you'll thank me, your a/c tech, your sweat glands and your wallet. Regarding reading the codes from the climate control display, I can tell you this, codes are MANY times wrong, I did the code process and it never indicated low refrigerant or any major problems, I had 2 old codes which after clearing them never reappeared. Even with manifold gauges, it can be hit and miss and making additional adjustments back and forth. When using a professional machine made for this situation, all that is needed is to attach it to the low port and the machine makes all the calculations and puts in the exact amount of freon per the manufacturer's specifications and voila, 15 minutes later all is right with no micro adjustments back and forth. Digital/computerized measurements will almost always be far superior to analog/eyesight gauges. Gauge needles stick as well as other possible errors. Think how many times you've seen someone have to tap on a gauge of some kind only to see the value change as the needle moves. Cool driving to all of you and thanks to many who have contributed when I was in need of help/advice.

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Reactions: 1

psmclean49

· #39 · 11 mo ago

Feroze said:
After running the engine for 15 minutes and changing the climate control from Auto to Manuel and then switching it to defroster, now both the sides (passenger and driver) warm air is blowing out. From Skippy’s answer, he also mentions that to check duo-valves, have you any idea where these dup valves are located?

Where are the duo_values located ??

Witek_M

· #40 · 11 mo ago

psmclean49 said:
Where are the duo_values located ??

Here.

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