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Y2K SL500 Silver
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Most of us know that we can follow the instructions in our Owners Manual under 'Manually raising the soft top' page 255 in the 2000 manual. In order to lock the rear of the RST it was brought to my attention that the following MPEG shows two people locking the rear of the soft at the very end of the file. So if you want to advance the showing to about the last 30 seconds please do so at R129F7.mpeg Top removal and replacement.

Please read http://www.benzworld.org/forums/r129-sl-class/1358342-how-remove-hard-top-put-soft.html#post2859071
 

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1998 mercedes benz Sl500
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30 Posts
Most of us know that we can follow the instructions in our Owners Manual under 'Manually raising the soft top' page 255 in the 2000 manual. In order to lock the rear of the RST it was brought to my attention that the following MPEG shows two people locking the rear of the soft at the very end of the file. So if you want to advance the showing to about the last 30 seconds please do so at R129F7.mpeg Top removal and replacement.

Please read http://www.benzworld.org/forums/r129-sl-class/1358342-how-remove-hard-top-put-soft.html#post2859071
Hi everyone, I am having the same problem with my soft top. I just had all the cylinders rebuilt on my 1998 sl500.When I was putting them back in I thought I had marked the hydraulic lines correctly but apparently I did not. After a call to Dennis I was told that there are matching numbers on the cylinders that coincide with the hydraulic lines.before I new this however my rear soft top locks worked even though I had the lines in some of the pistons incorrect. I now have everything working correctly soft top raises and reclines toneau raises and locks roll bar is fine,however the soft top locks release just fine but the drivers side rear soft top lock will not lock. I can see it pulling down but won't catch and lock. The passenger side locks just fine. I tried the manual lock from the trunk and I still cannot get it to lock. I do not want to force it down. Does anyone have any answers to this nightmare. I thought that after rebuilding the pistons this would be one less headache apparently not.Please help. thanks, Torchtamer57
 

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Banned
Y2K SL500 Silver
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8,660 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Hi everyone, I am having the same problem with my soft top. I just had all the cylinders rebuilt on my 1998 sl500.When I was putting them back in I thought I had marked the hydraulic lines correctly but apparently I did not. After a call to Dennis I was told that there are matching numbers on the cylinders that coincide with the hydraulic lines.before I new this however my rear soft top locks worked even though I had the lines in some of the pistons incorrect. I now have everything working correctly soft top raises and reclines toneau raises and locks roll bar is fine,however the soft top locks release just fine but the drivers side rear soft top lock will not lock. I can see it pulling down but won't catch and lock. The passenger side locks just fine. I tried the manual lock from the trunk and I still cannot get it to lock. I do not want to force it down. Does anyone have any answers to this nightmare. I thought that after rebuilding the pistons this would be one less headache apparently not.Please help. thanks, Torchtamer57
1) Always check to see that the HC reservoir is between the min-max line.
2) Try using your RST system with the engine running so that you make sure the electronics are +12 Volts.
3) After taking everything a part you may have a DTC that needs to erased buy a SDS at your local Ind shop.
4) PM ' bobterry99 '
 

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Banned
Y2K SL500 Silver
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8,660 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
To lock the rear of the RST

To lock the rear of the RST it was brought to my attention that the following MPEG shows two people locking the rear of the soft at the very end of the file. So if you want to advance the showing to about the last 30 seconds please do so at R129F7.mpeg Top removal and replacement.

Please read http://www.benzworld.org/forums/r129-sl-class/1358342-how-remove-hard-top-put-soft.html#post2859071
Try the above link NOW. And if it doesn't work try a Search for ' Manual Roof Closure Pics '.
 

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1998 SL500, 1959 220S, 1970 280SL
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777 Posts
Two more ingredients in the secret sauce to make this work.

1. The lever behind the trunk lining is designed to be moved by a 10mm open-end wrench. 'Way easier than with your hand.

2. For this to work, the latch fingers need to be in the full "up" position. If they are not, the top will go almost all the way down, but not latch. To make sure they are up, open the soft top compartment lid, and move the lever in the trunk up with the wrench. You will then be able to push the fingers against the hydraulics into the up position. This can be done by hand or with a screwdriver through the openings accessible from the inside of the soft top compartment. Then close the lid, making sure the fingers stay up. Pick a side. Lower the top's pins into the holes, move the lever in the trunk up with the wrench and push the top down gently. Release the trunk lever and press down forcefully on the top just above where the pin is. You may have to hit it with your fist. Repeat on the other side.
 

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03 SL Kleemann, 97 SL320, 95 E320 cab, Tesla X, Ferrari 360, etc
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949 Posts
Manual locking guide with or without cylinders installed for all model years

Folks,

here is a link that will add a bit more information yet, plus some pics. Please keep in mind that manual locking of the rear cylinders has changed during model year '95 - some early model year '95s still have the regular latches in the rear that are designed to be owner operated.

The following "Manual Locking Guide" from our website also cover manual locking details if you do not have the cylinders inside the locks (usually, because you have sent them off to Top Hydraulics for a seal upgrade, and you had to lock the top in the meantime): http://www.tophydraulicsinc.com/maunuallockhardtop.pdf

Hope this helps,

Klaus

Top Hydraulics | Rebuilt Convertible Top Hydraulic Cylinders - Top Hydraulics, Inc
 

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03 SL Kleemann, 97 SL320, 95 E320 cab, Tesla X, Ferrari 360, etc
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949 Posts
Be careful, it is possible to break the rear locks with excessiveforce

Release the trunk lever and press down forcefully on the top just above where the pin is. You may have to hit it with your fist. Repeat on the other side.
ctaylor738:

thank you for your input and for the instructions.
Please allow me to comment on the above detail. You are correct in mentioning that it can take some force to get the rear locks to fully latch, but I would like to urge caution: excessive downward force can break the lock!

Basically, you need to push down the rear of the soft top hard enough to work against the weatherstripping pushing up the top. This is usually harder on the hard top than on the soft top.

During the last bit of travel in the '95+ rear locks, you can actually use the lever on the back (with a 10-mm wrench pushing down on it) to help lock down the top.

Two more cautionary statements:
1) As ctaylor738 states, make sure that both rear locks are fully open when you start the manual locking process. As a guide with pictures, in case both locks are not fully open, please check out the following thread: http://www.benzworld.org/forums/r129-sl-class/1608418-soft-top-hydraulics-totally-dead-i.html
2) The two front locks do not turn in the same direction for the same process (clockwise vs. counterclockwise on opposite sides)

Hope this helps,

Klaus

Top Hydraulics | Rebuilt Convertible Top Hydraulic Cylinders - Top Hydraulics, Inc
 

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1991 500SL purch 10/2013 w/ 86,500 miles. 2001 S55 purch 9/2014 w/ 47,000 miles.
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2,112 Posts
I need to lock my back locks manually while the control module is being rebuilt. I tried the red levers in the trunk but I can't seem to find the right wrench. Of course I don't have the original that came with the car.

Based on the picture below it's a 10mm but really thin. I have a 10mm but it's too thick to get in between the ridges on the grooves. I tried pliers but was afraid to push too hard.

Anyway, please confirm that the right tool for a 1991 is a 10mm and I'll go to Home Depot and look around.

tool.jpg
 

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1993 600SL, 1973 450 SL,1982 380SL,1998 SLK 230, 1968 Firebird, 2001 Dodge Ram 4x4,2005 Ford Escape
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5,247 Posts
That's the right one. I doubt you'll find a stamped wrench at homo depot. Wish you were closer, I'd lend you mine. I could send it to you but you'll probably have the top controller back before it could reach you ! :crying
 

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1991 500SL purch 10/2013 w/ 86,500 miles. 2001 S55 purch 9/2014 w/ 47,000 miles.
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2,112 Posts
Thanks Tracy and Pete. Again Mercedes makes things overly complicated. Standard wrenches just won't do.
 

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Departed 1998 SL500 (and the Pano is in Bogota)
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Standard wrenches are too thick. May be you can grind one down.
 

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1991 500SL purch 10/2013 w/ 86,500 miles. 2001 S55 purch 9/2014 w/ 47,000 miles.
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2,112 Posts
Yeah I figured they were too thick. I have a throw away wrench that I got with something that had to be assembled. It's thin enough but I think 12mm not 10mm.

Sometimes life just sucks. I waste so much time on the SL. Frustrates me when I know what to do and I don't have the right tool.
 

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Greek God of the R129
SL500-500SEL-190E
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I have the OEM 10mm, but I like to have a better made spare.

(OEM has a tendency to eat/cuts the pin up.)

So I made my own.

Took a regular 10 mm box grind the open side flat.

If more leverage is needed, put a small pipe or something after it.

About the 5mm Allen, I must have about a dozen.. Lol.

Regards,
aam.
 

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99 SL500
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122 Posts
Scott - You may want to check with marine supply / boat repair shops near you - for the same wrench came with my Yamaha outboard.
 

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1993 600SL, 1973 450 SL,1982 380SL,1998 SLK 230, 1968 Firebird, 2001 Dodge Ram 4x4,2005 Ford Escape
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5,247 Posts
Hey Buddy, I don't know what if any shop equipment that an accountant has in his garage ( I know, tools just don't pencil), but if you have any type of belt or disc sander, you can grind a standard wrench. I'll stipulate that you are too smart to take up valuable garage space like us jerks that own every machine in the world, but you gotta know somebody dumb enough to have a grinder, disc or belt sander ? Think man Think ! :grin
 

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1991 500SL purch 10/2013 w/ 86,500 miles. 2001 S55 purch 9/2014 w/ 47,000 miles.
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Scott - You may want to check with marine supply / boat repair shops near you - for the same wrench came with my Yamaha outboard.
That's a great idea.

Found the tool online for $15 but the shipping was another $12 if I didn't want to spend $50 for free shipping. Would get something off my wish list (new floor mats). But I want to make sure that I can get the top working before I buy extra parts.

Tracy, that's just mean (but very accurate).:grin
 
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