[Kroniqphelps]

Hello and good day to all. A week or two ago I heard some weird noise on cold start And as the car was warming up and decided to check under the hood. Saw signs of an oil leak and just wanted to know if this could be related to the task at hand or is it another common leak? My “check oil level at next refuel” message came up about a week ago. I had drove about 3k miles since last oil change so that was really weird to get that message. Regardless, I topped it up and then I decided to look under the hood for any visuals. I uploaded the video from what I saw

Streamable Video

Watch this video on Streamable.

streamable.com

Oil leak video

 

[West]

Had to pull the manifold again, misfire on #6. This was after a week of running great? I expected a spark plug or coil failure. Turned out to be a torn #6 intake gasket. My fault. I had struggled with the vacuum line at the driver side rear reattachment when I put manifold back in. I am sure I damaged the gasket before I set the manifold back down fully while I worked trying to attach that hose. This time to avoid this I cut a small piece of plywood., 1/8 thick by 9 x 15 or so. Those are not the exact measurements but it fit right on top of the intake ports protecting the gaskets., With the wood in place I set the manifold down on the wood and hooked up everything including that hard to attach rear vacuum line. Once all hooked up I lifted the manifold and slid out the plywood. Double checked the gaskets were all in place and not damaged by peeking under with a flashlight. All good. Torqued the manifold and it runs perfect again. I used the Fel Pro gasket kit for the manifold this time because they were available same day at the local parts store. O”Reilly’s. Around $35 for both upper and lower manifold gaskets. Worked fine.s. Engine runs like a top again. Still not one rattle on start up and it is smooth Running. Should have been more careful with the manifold the first time.
While the manifold was off I installed the Oil Check valve on the passenger side so now both sides are done. Had no issues removing and installing the tensioner after making sure the engine was at 40* on the #1 compression stroke.

 

[West]

Kronigphelps, I just looked at your video, I do not see a large oil leak at all. The lower areas under what you Show are bone dry? That looks like a small seep to me. Maybe look under the car for signs of a leak or you might find your Crankcase ventilation valve is leaking oil into your intake manifold using up your oil.
Monitor your oil consumption for a while and see how much it uses. If you only used a quart in 3,000 miles that is not very bad, you might just add oil and live with it.

 

[Kroniqphelps]

Kronigphelps, I just looked at your video, I do not see a large oil leak at all. The lower areas under what you Show are bone dry? That looks like a small seep to me. Maybe look under the car for signs of a leak or you might find your Crankcase ventilation valve is leaking oil into your intake manifold using up your oil.
Monitor your oil consumption for a while and see how much it uses. If you only used a quart in 3,000 miles that is not very bad, you might just add oil and live with it.

do you know what these 2 parts are called? I been reading some stuff about a catch can but im almost sure it doesn’t apply to me

 

[West]

Not sure what the two red circles are pointing out.
A catch can if installed would go between the PCV, positive crankcase vent or just crankcase vent and your engine. A Vacuum line is attached to the PCV at the passenger side rear valve cover and goes up to the intake manifold. If you make a catch can it would need to be connected in that vacuum line so oil traveling up the vacuum line will fall in the catch can rather than your intake manifold.

 

[Rickman30]

do you know what these 2 parts are called? I been reading some stuff about a catch can but im almost sure it doesn’t apply to me
View attachment 2813880

 

[Rickman30]

The top circle is an oil catch, must be emptied of oil caught from PCV system periodically, usually done when cleaning the throttle body. The lower circle is the electrical motor housing of the throttle body, when oil is here the "catch can" is most likely full of oil and/or the throttle body in/out seals need replaced. Should be replaced when removing throttle for cleaning. Also, if catch can is full, intake plenum may be full of oil, Not literally, but if removed, oil from plenum will spill everywhere making a nasty big mess. If to that point of oil everywhere, the Oil separator and drip pan may need replacing, meaning the High Pressure Fuel Pump will need removed to access one bolt holding the PCV separator onto the back of bank one head. take special care, as the Fuel system is under very high pressure and is driven by the bank one intake camshaft. The buildup on the intake valves is from excess oil in intake, These are direct injected engines so no fuel in intake tract to keep the intake valves clean by washing oil into cylinders. Most will not attempt much of this work, and really should seek a reputable shop. But if you're handy with a wrench, there are some good vids on some of this work.

 

[Kroniqphelps]

The top circle is an oil catch, must be emptied of oil caught from PCV system periodically, usually done when cleaning the throttle body. The lower circle is the electrical motor housing of the throttle body, when oil is here the "catch can" is most likely full of oil and/or the throttle body in/out seals need replaced. Should be replaced when removing throttle for cleaning. Also, if catch can is full, intake plenum may be full of oil, Not literally, but if removed, oil from plenum will spill everywhere making a nasty big mess. If to that point of oil everywhere, the Oil separator and drip pan may need replacing, meaning the High Pressure Fuel Pump will need removed to access one bolt holding the PCV separator onto the back of bank one head. take special care, as the Fuel system is under very high pressure and is driven by the bank one intake camshaft. The buildup on the intake valves is from excess oil in intake, These are direct injected engines so no fuel in intake tract to keep the intake valves clean by washing oil into cylinders. Most will not attempt much of this work, and really should seek a reputable shop. But if you're handy with a wrench, there are some good vids on some of this work.

is it possible for oil to drip on the belt and cause squealing noise from video?

 

[Rickman30]

Yes, oil will damage belt, and has caused even bigger issues. Example, BMW M54 oil on the belt, caused belt to swell and slip between crank pulley and got sucked into engine causing catastrophic failure. So yeah. clean the drip pan/ oil catch on bottom of intake boot, it just pushes in, har to get out, best to remove from car. Change belt and pulleys for best insurance. Also check condition of crank pulley, rubber damped can deteriorate, when running will appear to wobble, if not wobbling, leave it be.

 

[Kroniqphelps]

Yes, oil will damage belt, and has caused even bigger issues. Example, BMW M54 oil on the belt, caused belt to swell and slip between crank pulley and got sucked into engine causing catastrophic failure. So yeah. clean the drip pan/ oil catch on bottom of intake boot, it just pushes in, har to get out, best to remove from car. Change belt and pulleys for best insurance. Also check condition of crank pulley, rubber damped can deteriorate, when running will appear to wobble, if not wobbling, leave it be.

Any videos u can post in here to show more details on how to get this job done? Is this in the WIS workshop?

 

[Kroniqphelps]

Can’t seem to find any videos on this

 

[Rickman30]

These are a few I could think of short notice. I know of a couple better, but memory fails at the moment. The Japanese fellow has some other good videos worth a view, as well.

 

[Kroniqphelps]

These are a few I could think of short notice. I know of a couple better, but memory fails at the moment. The Japanese fellow has some other good videos worth a view, as well.

Yea I watched senior Leigh’s video just now. I am going to get this done asap and change the belt. I’m hoping that’s the reason for the squeak during cold start. It goes away once the engine has reached the right temp but during the whole time it’s warming up, that noise is pretty annoying

 

[Kroniqphelps]

The last video with the Caribbean guy is for the W211. I had one for a few years and have changed that part before. It was relatively easier than what it seems like on the W212. I have to remove the intake soon in order to get this intake cam adjuster replaced on the driver side. For the time being, I can remove and clean the throttle body and empty the catch can under. Hopefully the oil hasn’t reached the plenum and start dripping when I finally remove it. This only has been like the 2nd week of this

 

[Rickman30]

Also look at the pulleys, normally the idlers and tensioner pulleys are replaced with belt, as they are maintenance wear items same as the belt. And check other pulleys, like water pump for noise or wobble, alternator, etc... Just read the last message. that was more fore information. here's the part Mercedes Crankcase Oil Separator Drip Pan - Vaico 2730100162

 

[Rickman30]

A lot of information from certain parts and models do carry over despite differences in design. Because a lot of people do miss replacing this part which is recommended for replacement at time of separator replacement.

 

[Kroniqphelps]

A lot of information from certain parts and models do carry over despite differences in design. Because a lot of people do miss replacing this part which is recommended for replacement at time of separator replacement.

Oh wow. Yea I didn’t watch the entire video to see these same parts from my old W211 lol it’s very annoying to have to go through this much steps on a newer car to change the same part but man am I in for some work!!! This crankcase breather, any intervals on when it should be changed? Or the catch pan?

 

[Kroniqphelps]

A lot of information from certain parts and models do carry over despite differences in design. Because a lot of people do miss replacing this part which is recommended for replacement at time of separator replacement.

If I’m not receiving any codes like in the second video, I should be good to just start with the throttle body cleaning and catch pan? Is there a way to check if oil has gotten into the intake without removing the intake?

 

[Rickman30]

No, but I've seen recommendations of between 90k and 120k. I would suggest when the catch tank in your picture is filled with more oil than normal or excessive vacuum when removing oil cap. mainly the oil will be evident before the latter.

 

[Kroniqphelps]

No, but I've seen recommendations of between 90k and 120k. I would suggest when the catch tank in your picture is filled with more oil than normal or excessive vacuum when removing oil cap. mainly the oil will be evident before the latter.

I literally just hit 120k lol