The local shop here is also selling it, so I wonder it is being distributed all over the world.
M272 M273 variable intake manifold valve parts
BENZ M272 variable intake manifold switchover valve parts - Hong Mei Trading Co., Ltd.
I remember a few members have these problem and need to have a whole intake manifold replaced due to the poor design of the plastic made valve linkage broken. Acutally, I just came across a Taiwan OEM this parts so no need to change the costly intake manifold but just this linkage.
BENZ M272 & M273 Variable intake manifold parts - YouTube
I remember a few members have these problem and need to have a whole intake manifold replaced due to the poor design of the plastic made valve linkage broken. Acutally, I just came across a Taiwan OEM this parts so no need to change the costly intake manifold but just this linkage.
BENZ M272 & M273 Variable intake manifold parts - YouTube
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
no i already did that a month ago it is the electric solenoid that sits towards the bottom of the intake=y22/6 look the pix diagram
BENZ M272 variable intake manifold switchover valve parts - Hong Mei Trading Co., Ltd.
I remember a few members have these problem and need to have a whole intake manifold replaced due to the poor design of the plastic made valve linkage broken. Acutally, I just came across a Taiwan OEM this parts so no need to change the costly intake manifold but just this linkage.
BENZ M272 & M273 Variable intake manifold parts - YouTube
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For posterity, the metal arm and linkage levers for the variable intake manifold are available from Rockauto.com in the USA and apparently a place in the U.K. at this link: Mercedes Benz V6 M272 and V8 M273 Intake Inlet Manifold Air Flap Runner Lever Repair Kit Install Instructions Guide
that link also has a write-up and clear pictures of the part that generally breaks; they apparently also include a piece that repairs the vacuum actuator rod, so you don't even have to replace the vacuum actuator if the ball-joint receiver broke off of the actuator.
The craziest part of this project is having to remove the manifold! I have to do this repair on my 2007 C280 and I'm going to see how far I can get with the manifold in place. I'll post results when I'm done.
that link also has a write-up and clear pictures of the part that generally breaks; they apparently also include a piece that repairs the vacuum actuator rod, so you don't even have to replace the vacuum actuator if the ball-joint receiver broke off of the actuator.
The craziest part of this project is having to remove the manifold! I have to do this repair on my 2007 C280 and I'm going to see how far I can get with the manifold in place. I'll post results when I'm done.
The metal part on this replacement is not goin to fix the problem on the intake.
the intake has runners inside that are open and closed
the triangular metal part is great u take off the rear plastic part that looks broken on the rear of the exterior of intake manifold.
The intake runners are breaking off from WITHIN the intake manifold.
Good try with a metal replacement. But if your intake has issues. This is not likely a fix and in either case broken pieces will still be found inside the combustion chamber.
the intake has runners inside that are open and closed
the triangular metal part is great u take off the rear plastic part that looks broken on the rear of the exterior of intake manifold.
The intake runners are breaking off from WITHIN the intake manifold.
Good try with a metal replacement. But if your intake has issues. This is not likely a fix and in either case broken pieces will still be found inside the combustion chamber.
I know that's a possibility, and it seems like that happens when the PCV residue builds up enough to seize-up the plastic runner flaps/diverters; but it also looks like the ball connector on the vacuum control arm lever, is responsible for many of the failures as well. I've decided to remove the manifold for just this reason, and if the flaps/diverters are fine, I will just clean the manifold as best I can to prevent seizing in the near future. However, I don't think components inside the manifold are broken; the engine runs very smoothly though the normal rpm ranges, and only runs a little rough during warm-up. So in scanning the ECU, I have a P2006 code, and after learning about this issue, I checked the main vacuum valve rod, and it is definitely broken or disconnected from the main control arm. One thing that I've read that can contribute to the fracture at the point where the vacuum valve rod and the control arm meet, is that the control arm has a little too much angular deflection, and bottoms-out on every cycle of this mechanism; and I've seen this addressed by a couple of aftermarket manufacturers who have redesigned the arm to eliminate the "bottoming out", and lower the stress on that mechanism. Anyway, if you have any more suggestions, please post them. I see there is an oil separator mechanism, but I'm thinking maybe I'll investigate the ability to install a catch-can to keep the manifold cleaner into the future.The metal part on this replacement is not goin to fix the problem on the intake.
the intake has runners inside that are open and closed
the triangular metal part is great u take off the rear plastic part that looks broken on the rear of the exterior of intake manifold.
The intake runners are breaking off from WITHIN the intake manifold.
Good try with a metal replacement. But if your intake has issues. This is not likely a fix and in either case broken pieces will still be found inside the combustion chamber.
I completed this repair with only one hang-up, and that was bending one of the new intake manifold gaskets during re-assembly. I used monofilament (fishing line) through the bolt holes to hold the gaskets in place during the re-install, but somehow the driver's side gasket got bent; anyway, after running over to the auto parts store for a new set of Mahle gaskets, this time I used the fishing line AND put the bolts through the holes, then, with help from my son, wrangled the manifold through the hoses and wires while he tried to hold them out of the way, until the manifold was seated on the heads; then I got a couple of turns on each manifold bolt before a removed each fishing line.
The tumbler/runner flaps moved freely, and were not broken. I did a cursory cleaning of the manifold, but that was more for dust/dirt removal and cosmetics.
After solving a couple of vacuum leaks because of mal-seated hoses and other components, the fuel trims were perfect and the car started and idled smoothly.
But before re-assembly, I also soaked the intake ports with some benzene overnight, and cleaned them with a toothbrush the next day (two ports could only be done the next day since their intake valves were open and couldn't hold the benzene in their ports until I turned the engine (clockwise only) the next day, and I soaked them for a much shorter time, but they cleaned up pretty good as well. I already had the spark plugs out, and I made sure that I had no liquid in the cylinders by vacuuming them out using a small hose and my ShopVac; I also kept the plugs out until the very end of the project, when I cranked the engine a couple of times to expel any liquid that my vacuuming may have missed. Also, I re-claimed the benzene from the ports using a vacuum pump, and put it in a separate container for maybe a future use were I don't need clean benzene. (Don't ask me where you can find benzene anymore, this can I had was from the 1980's !)
With 107,000 miles on the car, the engine runs very well now...I bought the car knowing it had a problem, it was idling roughly when cold, and had good, but not great acceleration when warmed up. Now everything seems to be good.
I also noticed oil leaking from the plastic camshaft caps on the back of the heads (more on the passenger side, leaking on to the exhaust pipe below) so I removed them and sealed them with RTV, and let that cure overnight before running the engine again. These caps are ridiculous, and while they're only a couple of dollars to replace, I can see that this would happen again over time if they're not sealed with RTV. So now that's fixed too.
The next minor repair is to replace the PCV oil re-breather, but I need to buy a ratcheting 6 point "inverted Torx" wrench to get out the bolts that are against the firewall.
The tumbler/runner flaps moved freely, and were not broken. I did a cursory cleaning of the manifold, but that was more for dust/dirt removal and cosmetics.
After solving a couple of vacuum leaks because of mal-seated hoses and other components, the fuel trims were perfect and the car started and idled smoothly.
But before re-assembly, I also soaked the intake ports with some benzene overnight, and cleaned them with a toothbrush the next day (two ports could only be done the next day since their intake valves were open and couldn't hold the benzene in their ports until I turned the engine (clockwise only) the next day, and I soaked them for a much shorter time, but they cleaned up pretty good as well. I already had the spark plugs out, and I made sure that I had no liquid in the cylinders by vacuuming them out using a small hose and my ShopVac; I also kept the plugs out until the very end of the project, when I cranked the engine a couple of times to expel any liquid that my vacuuming may have missed. Also, I re-claimed the benzene from the ports using a vacuum pump, and put it in a separate container for maybe a future use were I don't need clean benzene. (Don't ask me where you can find benzene anymore, this can I had was from the 1980's !)
With 107,000 miles on the car, the engine runs very well now...I bought the car knowing it had a problem, it was idling roughly when cold, and had good, but not great acceleration when warmed up. Now everything seems to be good.
I also noticed oil leaking from the plastic camshaft caps on the back of the heads (more on the passenger side, leaking on to the exhaust pipe below) so I removed them and sealed them with RTV, and let that cure overnight before running the engine again. These caps are ridiculous, and while they're only a couple of dollars to replace, I can see that this would happen again over time if they're not sealed with RTV. So now that's fixed too.
The next minor repair is to replace the PCV oil re-breather, but I need to buy a ratcheting 6 point "inverted Torx" wrench to get out the bolts that are against the firewall.
I did that repair on an ML350 and had no issues with the manifold gasket. I just placed it on the head, then set the manifold on top.
Sucking benzene through a shop-vac is not a great idea from a fire safety/risk-of-explosion standpoint. Please, no one should do this.I completed this repair with only one hang-up, and that was bending one of the new intake manifold gaskets during re-assembly. I used monofilament (fishing line) through the bolt holes to hold the gaskets in place during the re-install, but somehow the driver's side gasket got bent; anyway, after running over to the auto parts store for a new set of Mahle gaskets, this time I used the fishing line AND put the bolts through the holes, then, with help from my son, wrangled the manifold through the hoses and wires while he tried to hold them out of the way, until the manifold was seated on the heads; then I got a couple of turns on each manifold bolt before a removed each fishing line.
The tumbler/runner flaps moved freely, and were not broken. I did a cursory cleaning of the manifold, but that was more for dust/dirt removal and cosmetics.
After solving a couple of vacuum leaks because of mal-seated hoses and other components, the fuel trims were perfect and the car started and idled smoothly.
But before re-assembly, I also soaked the intake ports with some benzene overnight, and cleaned them with a toothbrush the next day (two ports could only be done the next day since their intake valves were open and couldn't hold the benzene in their ports until I turned the engine (clockwise only) the next day, and I soaked them for a much shorter time, but they cleaned up pretty good as well. I already had the spark plugs out, and I made sure that I had no liquid in the cylinders by vacuuming them out using a small hose and my ShopVac; I also kept the plugs out until the very end of the project, when I cranked the engine a couple of times to expel any liquid that my vacuuming may have missed. Also, I re-claimed the benzene from the ports using a vacuum pump, and put it in a separate container for maybe a future use were I don't need clean benzene. (Don't ask me where you can find benzene anymore, this can I had was from the 1980's !)
With 107,000 miles on the car, the engine runs very well now...I bought the car knowing it had a problem, it was idling roughly when cold, and had good, but not great acceleration when warmed up. Now everything seems to be good.
I also noticed oil leaking from the plastic camshaft caps on the back of the heads (more on the passenger side, leaking on to the exhaust pipe below) so I removed them and sealed them with RTV, and let that cure overnight before running the engine again. These caps are ridiculous, and while they're only a couple of dollars to replace, I can see that this would happen again over time if they're not sealed with RTV. So now that's fixed too.
The next minor repair is to replace the PCV oil re-breather, but I need to buy a ratcheting 6 point "inverted Torx" wrench to get out the bolts that are against the firewall.
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
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