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Discussion Starter #1
I decided to try to replace the CPS on my 95 SL500 today, I removed the allen bolt and tried to pull it out with my hand, nothing. Then sprayed some lubricant around it and was able to work it back and forth, still will not come out. Sprayed more lube around it. Now I got the pliers around it and I wiggled and turned and pulled ( I did this for what seemed like a eternity) and finally it it let go, so I thought!! Well, It is now in 2 pieces!!! Unfortunately for me 1 piece is still in the hole, I tried for a short time to get it out, but not able to. ( too frustrated ). Anyone have any ides on what I need to do next?????
 

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I still cannot see why it should be so tight, they usually just slip out, which is why they are held in place by a Torx or Allen screw.

You could try drilling it out, but with the restricted access you will have to use a chuck and flexible driveshaft from the drill.
If you can get a pilot hole drilled you may be able to use a screw extractor to remove it. If it won't extract, then drill it to remove it as swarf with the same size drill as the hole (from memory about a 10mm )

Again from memory, the sensor that fits into the bell housing is about 35mm long, how much is left in the bell housing? e.g. is it broken off flush with the bell housing or half way down?

If drilling it out is impossible, then your only other alternative is to punch it through into the bell housing. If you have to mash it up on the starter ring, this won't matter, just be careful not to damage the starter ring.

The CPS is made up from plastic, a copper winding and a brass end stop, all a lot softer than the steel of the starter ring gear and the starter engaging gear. The bits of plastic etc. should lay harmlessly in the bell housing.

The alternative is to remove the gearbox and flywheel, and punch it back up through to the engine bay.
 

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This is very puzzling to me....:confused:

The CPS should look like this. What is there to get stuck down the hole?
 

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Mine came out easily too. Maybe yours got some salt there or something. I would wait for someone to check my advice here first. One thing you might do to make it easier to drill out or "hook out" is to remove the trans mount bracket (easy- 4 bolts) and the two 13mm mount bolts and lift where the bracket was with with a floor jack. Maybe just removing the two mount bolts will work. This will make it a lot easier to get to that CPS and the bellhousing in general if you put the hood in vertical position. I did this when I removed the trans but didnt mention it and figured someone might yell why not to do that. The engine pivots easily without the trans mount bolted and makes plenty of room to work on the upper part of the bellhousing. I also had my drive shaft disconnected and the heat sheilds removed but I think the back of the trans will still lift some without those removed.
I dont know what the CPS is like inside but maybe its possible just to drill a small 1/4" hole, tap it, and then pull it out with a bolt? You may as well let some WD40 soak in there in the time youre doing it. A srcew extractor/ez out
may work also. If I drilled, or created metal shavings in the bellhousing, Id also think of some way to assure I cleaned them out before I turned the motor.
My CPS on my 95 is stainless steel on the cylindrical part, I thought.
Also, in our mention of drilling etc, we are assuming there is nothing left outside of the hole to grab onto? You didnt just break off the wire or terminal I assume?
In considering Red Liners last hope to remove the trans and it really did come down to that you may not actually have to remove the trans but just separating it enough you could get a stout 1/4" -3/8" rod through the vents in the bottom of the bellhousing up to the CPS and punch it out with a hammer as he suggested. That would involve removing all 8 trans to engine bolts, the trans mount and the drive shaft at the front flange and the 6 drive plate bolts. Still that would be alot easier than removing the trans entirely, if that were to work. The engine to trans pins would need reset when finished if you did that. I doubt it would have to come to that but then the idea of a CPS that wont come out is quite a surprise to begin with.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
redliner, the part of the cps that is in the hole is what is stuck. There was a piece of the cps that I was grabbing on to with needle nose pliers but it slipped flush with the hole. I am going to a too; store to see what they have to help me.
If I can't find anything, do you thing if I knock it through the housing it would not damage anything, because doing the transmission idea is not a option for me.
 

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redliner, the part of the cps that is in the hole is what is stuck. There was a piece of the cps that I was grabbing on to with needle nose pliers but it slipped flush with the hole. I am going to a too; store to see what they have to help me.
If I can't find anything, do you thing if I knock it through the housing it would not damage anything, because doing the transmission idea is not a option for me.
A couple other very good ideas have also been put forward. One to drill a pilot hole and screw in a self tapping screw. This would give a good purchase on the broken piece to remove it.
Before you do anything drastic, wait for more replies, we have some great engineers on this forum that 'think outside the box' and come up with great solutions to problems.

Oh and one more thing to help us, FILL UP YOUR USER PROFILE :D
 

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James is right, drilling a pilot hole is probably going to be your best option. The CPS is located in a difficult spot so be careful when you begin drilling.

Drill a 1/2" deep hole into the center of the CPS with a 3/8 drill bit (that should be enough to get a self tapping screw in there).
 

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It is accessed with UserCP up there ^^^^

Can you post a photo of the broken piece of CPS that you have removed?

Just save the jpeg image to a file on your PC, and then use 'manage attachments' (under the message box) to navigate your image into the BW file system.
 

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If you do have to drill it out use the smaller bit you have and take a easy out and screw it in it. They sell easy outs at hardware and auto parts stores. If you uas a bit thats big you run the risk if breaking it up even more. Or like techtune said a small self tapping screw. If you have a dremel like device this will help you get to it with out using a full size drill. The bigger the screw you use will just apply more pressure to the sensor making it harder to remove.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I will try to take a picture and attempt to drill and put a self tapping screw in the old cps this Wednesday. I will let you guys know what happens.
 

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Spray it AFTER its been tapped, you dont want to push it in while your tapping it
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
update on CPS problem, tried to tap a screw into to the old CPS but was unsuccessful. So I picked and pried with some screw drivers and picks and got some of it out but there is still some left. I took some pictures for all to see, but not sure on how to place them for you guys to see.
 

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I took some pictures for all to see, but not sure on how to place them for you guys to see.
When you type a reply scroll down a little to 'Manage Attachments', enter the file/s from your computer and press upload. see photo below

Look at the other photo, find that button highlighted yellow, and press it, then complete the blank spaces :thumbsup:

Click on images to enlarge
 

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..but not sure on how to place them for you guys to see.
RedLiner is quite right above, but I think (as a first timer) you will find this easier to follow...

What you do to post an image is:

1. Save it in a known location in your PC.
2. Click 'Add Reply' to open up your reply message pane.
3. Type draft message.
4. Scroll down to 'Manage Attachments' and click.
5. Click 'Browse' and navigate to the image in your PC
6. Click 'Open' and note the image is now shown in the BW pane.
7. Click 'Upload' and wait for file reference to appear. Close window.
8. Click 'Preview Post', and the draft message & image should appear.
9. If OK, click 'Submit Reply'.

There are some limits on the image file size, so best to use .jpeg format or wrap the images inside a pdf....
 

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To add to what others mentioned, I am quite new at posting pics myself but if my pic was too large it just wouldnt upload and would just sit there with the hour glass with no error or warning. I dont know the ideal size to convert your pic to but I just convert to 800X600 in my photo viewer and those upload fine and seem to look good.
 

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Let someone else reply to this first but if its still difficult and if Im picturing just a small peice left, I personally may just take my chances and try to punch it through and collect it out of the vents on the bottom of the bellhousing. I say that even though I was the one worried about debris in the bellhousing. It seems my main concern would be if anything got into the front seal. I worry that because I just got through with a bad leak there and you dont want that. The CPS is on the opposite side of the torque converter from the seal and it would seem rare that a peice could actually get in that area. If others thought this was OK I would still "take inventory" of how much you recovered and if any peices are missing it might be advisable to do something like pour or siphon a few qts of ATF into the top of the bellhousing to flush it out.
 
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