[daryn]

I have read Nobby's valve adjustment writeup and it is my guide.

I have the feeler gauge, the special wrench, the valve cover gasket and the will to do it as an oil change is up.

My question is there anything to look for while the engine is opened up? I want to measure the timing chain stretch, I think you line the engine up to TDC on the crank pulley then you compare the marks on the cam and see how much it is off.

When I turn the motor over is there anything I should do other than

Is there anything to look at? Check the rocker arms or rattle clips for wear?

 

[isthisdave]

.



Never counter rotate the engine.

Line up the cam timing marks and measure for stretch at the damper scale.

 

[daryn]

Would you measure stretch on both intake and exhaust?

 

[isthisdave]

.


I don't think the M110's cams are far enough apart for much of a difference to show. Set the cam furthest from the crank pulley at its mark.

 

[daryn]

Thanks Dave!

 

[nobby]

I doubt very much you will register any chain stretch. That fucking chain is robust.

I would, however, check for wear on the sprocket teeth and on the rubber lined rails.

 

[daryn]

Thanks for the tip Nobby, I will check the rails and sprocket teeth for wear.

I'm hoping this isn't like every other job which turns to crap on me.

 

[petesmga]

they also have off-set woodruff keys you can use on the cams to bring them into alignment without replacing the chain.

 

[petesmga]

Forgot the link.

M110 timing chain renewal

 

[daryn]

I got it apart, so now to adjust the valve clearances and to measure chain stretch. I had to take off the fan to get at the crank pulley, it was a bit tight.

 

[daryn]

One last question, is there a torque sequence on the valve cover for reinstallation? What is the torque spec on the valve cover gasket, didn't feel very tight when I removed it.

 

[daryn]

Ok I'm going to button the car back up tomorrow. Overall a pretty easy job and I'm glad I did it as most of the valves were pretty tight.

I measured the chain stretch and it is 2* advanced so pretty much dead on. Me so happy. Hopefully the car still runs after I'm done.

Thanks for the help and tips and thanks to Nobby for writing up the procedure.

Anyone know the valve cover torque specification? It felt like it was one pretty loosely so it must not have to be too tight.

 

[nobby]

Ok I'm going to button the car back up tomorrow. Overall a pretty easy job and I'm glad I did it as most of the valves were pretty tight.

I measured the chain stretch and it is 2* advanced so pretty much dead on. Me so happy. Hopefully the car still runs after I'm done.

Thanks for the help and tips and thanks to Nobby for writing up the procedure.

Anyone know the valve cover torque specification? It felt like it was one pretty loosely so it must not have to be too tight.

1 snug....work from the center...out.

 

[daryn]

I just got the car put back together. The car now idles at 1000rpm which is too high, so I'll let my mechanic adjust the idle and CO. Another issue is one of the lifters got more noisy after I adjusted it, I don't know if I didn't do it right or maybe something is worn out. One of the exhaust valve is making a racket now, don't really know if I should just change the oil and drive it or take it back apart and make sure I adjusted it correctly. I was pretty careful doing the adjustment though.

 

[petesmga]

A little noise is a good thing, too tight and the valve will not seat

 

[daryn]

I hear what you are saying Pete but the engine is much noisier than it was before and it sounds to be coming from on of the exhaust rocker. I hear the m110 engine is loud and now mine is, where before it was rather quiet.

As an aside the cold starting problem I had is gone now so it might have had to do with the valve adjustment.

I'll drive around some and see what happens, worse comes to worse I get to redo the job, just like every other job I do.

 

[petesmga]

maby a rocker spring sprung, that'll give you a bit of a racket.

 

[nobby]

Loud = Good
Quiet = Bad


The higher idle might be attributed to you dislodging a vac line or something else whilst performing the valve adjustment.

 

[daryn]

I looked at the vac lines and they all appear to be attached, I'm going to change them all one of these days though. I'll double check. Maybe a nice little cruise will help seat the rocker. If this is what my engine is suppossed to sound like no wonder people say they are loud.

I'll keep y'all posted and thanks for the information.

I think I may have adjusted the valves on the exhaust sit too loosely which is causing the noise, so apart it comes again.


Edit: The car runs and idles good but almost sounds like it has a miss, but it runs fine. I might be driving it up to the mountains so I'd like the car to be settled correctly. I think I'll probably take it back apart tomorrow just to make sure everything is done correctly then I'll button it up and just drive it.

The high idle died down once the car warmed up so maybe my cold starts will be good finally.

Thanks for the input folks!

 

[daryn]

OK the car is back apart and I'm going to redo the adjustment.

Does it matter if the car is on the compression stroke when you do the adjustment or is all that matters that the cam lobe point up?