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Back years ago when I was a kid, one of my cousins was into VW Bugs (still is) and owned two he "Baja'd" as well as a sedan that was his DD. He was known in town as the one to go to if you needed work done on yours. Danny always specified BOSCH when getting parts. Fast forward to now, if BOSCH is and has been good enough for German cars in general, especially MB, Beemers, and Porsche then it's good enough for mine, I even got a Bosch fuel pump assembly for my S10 last year, partly for the price but also their reputation of quality
 

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Discussion Starter #162
Definitely the Bosch Distributor. I had an off brand that wore out very quickly.

So far this winter my car has been much more reliable than previous years. I've had no problems with cold starts or stalling. I only drive it once or twice a week around town. Being a college student money has been tight and I haven't been able to afford to try another eBay EZL, but I will when I can.
 

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The Bosch cap from the MB dealership.


Not if the rotor is in good shape. The O-ring and the dust seal I‘d only replace if they look like they should be replaced. … Anyway, don‘t think that the distributor is watertight or airtight, even with a new O-ring it is not … respectively it should not be. ... :wink_2:

Happy holidays to everybody. :)

H.D.
Thanks, H.D. I'm kinda puzzled as to why a single contact corrodes while the others are left perfectly intact. As you saw from the pics, even the plug wire cap was disintegrated. I'm surprised it fired at all. There could be internal corrosion on other contacts after I pull the cap and actually examine the whole thing, but hopefully this is the extent of the damage. Is it normal for these caps to corrode after just a year or two?

One other question: How does one determine which cylinder the distributor contact addresses? Of course I can trace the wires to the block, but is the cylinder order like 1-2-3-4-5-6 starting from the firewall? Or is it the other way around?

Finally, I'm going to replace my spark plugs; I was told by a mechanic in Florida that M103s don't like fancy plus and instead to use high quality, copper-core plugs like were OEM spec'd back in the 80s. What kind of torque do they require? Last thing I want to do is strip a thread.

Thank you.
 

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Maybe even throw a dab of dielectric grease on the plug boots going on the cap as well, couldn't hurt it
I have some of that. Do you mean use a cotton swab and put it on the metal contact inside the plug cap? This grease in no way impedes electrical flow, eh—but it impedes corrosion? If so, then I'll use in on all of the cap wire leads.
 

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Definitely the Bosch Distributor. I had an off brand that wore out very quickly.

So far this winter my car has been much more reliable than previous years. I've had no problems with cold starts or stalling. I only drive it once or twice a week around town. Being a college student money has been tight and I haven't been able to afford to try another eBay EZL, but I will when I can.
Thanks, Cody. I'll buy the (twice as) expensive MB part over the Bosch—though I suspect the Benz-labeled one will have been manufactured by either of Bosch or Beru. Hope all's well with your project. :)
 

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... Is it normal for these caps to corrode after just a year or two? ...
No. … :)

... How does one determine which cylinder the distributor contact addresses? Of course I can trace the wires to the block, but is the cylinder order like 1-2-3-4-5-6 starting from the firewall? Or is it the other way around? ...
The firing order is 1-5-3-6-2-4 … starting from the ignition distributor.

... I'm going to replace my spark plugs; I was told by a mechanic in Florida that M103s don't like fancy plus and instead to use high quality, copper-core plugs like were OEM spec'd back in the 80s. What kind of torque do they require? ...
That mechanic in Florida was right … non-resistor copper-core plugs for the M103. … Install them with a torque of 20 Nm … and don‘t forget to clean the recesses they sit in (best with compressed air) before you remove the old plugs.
 

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... Being a college student money has been tight and I haven't been able to afford to try another eBay EZL, but I will when I can.
Take care of that as you may see fit … and don‘t put college in second place. … :wink_2:

H.D.
 

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No. … :)


The firing order is 1-5-3-6-2-4 … starting from the ignition distributor.


That mechanic in Florida was right … non-resistor copper-core plugs for the M103. … Install them with a torque of 20 Nm … and don‘t forget to clean the recesses they sit in (best with compressed air) before you remove the old plugs.
Thanks. So, looking at the distributor cap from the front of the engine, the left-most connector is cylinder 1 and the right most is 4?

And what I meant above is the physical cylinder location of the engine when looking at the block from the right side of the car: From front to back, it's 1-2-3-4-5-6. Or is 6 at the front of the engine? Or am I all wet on this entirely. And the numbers correspond strictly in line with the firing order...
 

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... So, looking at the distributor cap from the front of the engine, the left-most connector is cylinder 1 and the right most is 4?
And what I meant above is the physical cylinder location of the engine when looking at the block from the right side of the car: From front to back, it's 1-2-3-4-5-6. Or is 6 at the front of the engine? ...
You find the cylinder numbers on the cover that goes over the distributor cap. … The physical cylinder location from front to back is 1-2-3-4-5-6.
 

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I have some of that. Do you mean use a cotton swab and put it on the metal contact inside the plug cap? This grease in no way impedes electrical flow, eh—but it impedes corrosion? If so, then I'll use in on all of the cap wire leads.
Yes, use it kinda like a "sealer" to keep moisture in the air out and it helps seal the rubber to the cap without it getting stuck (we've all had to deal with that)
 

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Yes, use it kinda like a "sealer" to keep moisture in the air out and it helps seal the rubber to the cap without it getting stuck (we've all had to deal with that)
Thanks, wooky. And interesting. I figured any grease of any sort would impeded conduction, but I guess that's they call it "dielectric". Does it make sense to put the grease on the metal contacts of both ends of the wire—the cap end and the spark plug end?
 

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I've been using it more and more lately to prevent / cut down on corrosion of contacts and such. Used on battery terminals there is almost none of the white crap build up that eventually causes electrical problems and "no starts"

I've also been using dielectric in switches I "rebuild", greases and cuts down on corrosion inside
 

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Definitely the Bosch Distributor. I had an off brand that wore out very quickly.

So far this winter my car has been much more reliable than previous years. I've had no problems with cold starts or stalling. I only drive it once or twice a week around town. Being a college student money has been tight and I haven't been able to afford to try another eBay EZL, but I will when I can.
Ebay offers free returns even if the seller doesn’t . You should never lose a penny by buying in ebay if the part doesn’t work . Ebay will refund you in full as long as you mail it back and will usually even give a prepaid return label
 

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Discussion Starter #175
Hello everyone, I know I've been inactive for some time now and just wanted to check in. I have not given up on this thread or my car but money and time has been very tight for the past year or so as I finished up my fifth and final year of my engineering degree. I've been offered my first engineering position and I'll be going in on Monday to do paperwork and make it official. This means I'll have adequate funds to spend on parts my car needs (while saving up for a low maintenance commuter). I had a couple notes on how my car has been running as well.

Firstly, for the past year or she has been the most reliable she has been for the past 4-5 years. I haven't been stranded anywhere, had any stalls at stop lights or slow corners, and she started up pretty easy every time this winter. While I primarily walk to class and drive my girlfriends car (2005 Accord) when necessary I've been making it a point to take the Mercedes for a drive at least a couple times a month. I also haven't had to change spark plugs for quite some time now, where before I had to change them every few months.

That being said, my fuel mileage has dropped. Prior to adjusting the control plunger / duty cycle I was getting around 19-20 mpg, now I'm getting 13-15. This makes sense after enriching the mixture and isn't really an issue as she's not a daily driver any more, but I thought it noteworthy. Also it seems to me there is a substantial amount of unburnt fuel coming out the tailpipe at idle but no notable smoke. Again, this makes sense with our diagnosis of a correct fuel / air mixture but insufficient spark. Luckily where I live emissions tests are not an issue :wink.

I have had a just a couple hiccups. The situation goes about like this: After driving the car for a bit and getting the engine up to temperature I stop for 5-15 minutes and get out of the car. I crank the engine a few times and she seems to want to start but not quite be able to get there. I pop the hood, take off the air filter housing, and depress the AFM. It smells strongly of gas, so I prop it open in the hopes of letting that air / fuel mixture flow out and fresh air flow in. After a few minutes I replace the filter, try again and she starts up again without a fuss. I've had this happen in warm dry weather as well as damp cold weather, and it only happens if I stop for just a few minutes. This has only happened 2-3 times. I suspect it has something to do with having to depress the throttle to start the engine.

I've noticed my car goes through oil pretty quickly. I don't necessarily suspect it's burning this oil as there's always a some left on the ground when parked overnight. I've also noticed on very warm days (90+ F) when I come to a stop the oil pressure drops pretty low regardless of how full it is. Sometimes this is right around the 0 mark. Is this something to be concerned about? I've switched from generic 10w-40 to Delo 400 15w-40 after reading some recommendations on this and other forums. It hasn't been long but it seems like it's losing less oil so far.

My air conditioning and heating is fickle. Still, the heat and AC only function correctly under 3000 rpm. Sometimes they don't function at all, and sometimes they will only function after driving the car for a bit and restarting the engine. In the past 18 or so months. I replaced the blower motor recently as well as replaced a leaky air conditioning fitting. When doing so I was working with someone experienced in automotive AC and he suggested the heating / AC controls were vacuum controlled. Therefore with my vacuum leak it would make sense that they don't work at high engine speed. Heating and AC is of course lower priority than getting the engine running properly, but I was wondering if the AC is indeed vacuum controlled or if anyone has had a similar experience. I know the locks are vacuum/ air pressure controlled as when I first got this car they wouldn't lock and had to be taken in to the same questionable mechanic I previously mentioned. I've yet to inspect his work on that.

I'd like to thank everyone for the progress I've made with this car, especially @H.D. This car probably wouldn't still be running without this forum. I apologize for once again disappearing and returning with a massive information dump. I'll be re-reading this thread as well as the linked informational threads to catch back up. I hope to be more active on this forum and with my car now that I can actually afford parts.

Cody
 

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... I'd like to thank everyone for the progress I've made with this car, especially @H.D. This car probably wouldn't still be running without this forum. ...
Thanks for your appreciation, codycool55. :)

... I hope to be more active on this forum and with my car now that I can actually afford parts.
I may not notice future posts of yours since in most cases I don‘t receive email notifications from Benzworld. And with the additional technical forum problems since earlier this year (https://www.benzworld.org/forums/w126-s-se-sec-sel-sd/3029378-forum-problems.html#post17816294) participating in other member‘s threads has become quite inconvenient for me. … If you are interested in my further advice/assistance, I prefer to continue via email.

Oh, and congratulations on your engineering degree and good luck with your first engineering position. :thumbsup:

H.D.
 
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