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Discussion Starter #142
Just to make sure we're on the same page before I hit the junk yard, the circled plug in the attached picture is the CPS coaxial correct? And the inner pin each the outer cylinder each count as a separate terminal towards that 10? So pin 31 and this outer cylindrical terminal in the CPS plug connector should be the only combination of terminals with connection, but how low of resistance is considered full continuity? When you say the mounting surface, that is the surface that will be in contact with the car correct? Will any heat sink paste do?
 

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... the circled plug in the attached picture is the CPS coaxial correct? And the inner pin each the outer cylinder each count as a separate terminal towards that 10? So pin 31 and this outer cylindrical terminal in the CPS plug connector should be the only combination of terminals with connection, but how low of resistance is considered full continuity? ...
That‘s all correct. The resistance between pin 31 and this outer cylindrical terminal should be below 1 Ω.

... When you say the mounting surface, that is the surface that will be in contact with the car correct? Will any heat sink paste do?
Correct. You could, for instance, use heat sink paste that‘s used for CPU coolers in computers.
 

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Discussion Starter #144
I'm starting to exhaust the junkyards near me with no luck yet. How similar do the part numbers need to be? If I purchase one from eBay is there any way to tell if it is fully functional other than asking for all the resistances?
 

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Discussion Starter #146
I see a lot of eBay posts stating a similar part number is interchangeable. Usually 00(4/5/6) 545 XX32 or something along those lines. Is this not entirely true?
 

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I‘m not sure. There might be country version related differences. What‘s the number of yours?
 

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006 545 7632
If you go to ebay.com and type in “006 545 76 32“ (including quotation marks and blancs) you get this:

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw="006+545+7632"&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.X"006+545+76+32".TRS0&_nkw="006+545+76+32"&_sacat=0

If you type in 0065457632 you get this:

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw="006+545+76+32"&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.X0065457632.TRS0&_nkw=0065457632&_sacat=0

However, before you buy another EZL, I suggest to repeat the resistance measurements from post 135 (with all plugs disconnected) between terminal 2 and all other 9 terminals (including both coaxial CPS terminals) on your EZL in both directions! ... (once with the meter‘s “Ω“ lead connected to terminal 2 and once with the “COM“ lead connected to terminal 2).
 

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I've redone the tests and attached an image with the results.
The data I see on that piece of paper leaves no doubt … short circuit in the EZL.

After EZL relacement the resistance between CIS-ECU connector terminals 13 & 2 should be less than 1 Ω with the throttle closed, and inifinite up form the moment the throttle starts to open … and if there is no other problem affecting it, acceleration should be much better. :wink_2:

H.D.
 

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Discussion Starter #153
The new EZL arrived. I bench tested it and it's in almost identical condition to the one on my car. The results are attached I'll be in contact with the seller to return or exchange it unless I hear something different from this forum before then.
 

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The new EZL arrived. I bench tested it and it's in almost identical condition to the one on my car. ...
If so, this “new“ EZL is as faulty as the one on your car. … Also with this EZL installed, the CIS-ECU would not receive correct “throttle opened“ signals from the TPS.
 

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To those who are following this thread, I finally got around to doing a more thorough diagnosis once the car had been sitting for a month, as the idle problem always followed such periods; once the car had been running for several hours, it would generally start and run pretty well—until it sat for another week or three.

Turns out that my distributor cap, only about two years old, developed serious corrosion at the far right lower terminal (looking at it from the front of the car), and the plug wire connector deteriorated with it. How it was connecting at all is beyond me, and how this happens is also a bit of a mystery.

Question is: Which distributor cap to buy: Bosch. Beru. Or "genuine Mercedes-Benz"—which I assume is made by either of the first two. I'm also going to replace the O-ring, dust seal and all plug wires as well.

Anything else I should replace while I'm at it? I'm pretty sure the rotor's going to be in good shape. I'm having trouble getting at the bottom cap screw as it's in a very awkward spot; I need to get a better tool.

Thanks. And happy holidays to you all.
 

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... Question is: Which distributor cap to buy: Bosch. Beru. Or "genuine Mercedes-Benz" ...
The Bosch cap from the MB dealership.

... Anything else I should replace while I'm at it? I'm pretty sure the rotor's going to be in good shape. ...
Not if the rotor is in good shape. The O-ring and the dust seal I‘d only replace if they look like they should be replaced. … Anyway, don‘t think that the distributor is watertight or airtight, even with a new O-ring it is not … respectively it should not be. ... :wink_2:

Happy holidays to everybody. :)

H.D.
 

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Maybe even throw a dab of dielectric grease on the plug boots going on the cap as well, couldn't hurt it
 
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