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1998 SLK 230
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Discussion Starter #1
A quick one to all the people who have lowered their cars... what number pads did you use front & rear for an even drop?

Im going to be using H&R springs on the 17" wheels...

what are you all using?
 

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2000 Slk230 Limited Edition
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133 Posts
I also have the H&R springs and am using the thinest pads on 18"...looks pretty even.
 

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1998 SLK 230
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2,648 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
thanks... did this effect the rear camber a lot? and did you use adjustable camber control arms?
 

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PROUD OWNER! 2002 slk32 AMG
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1,505 Posts
it did affect the camber and i used the tvt camber bars to correct it. m/b eccentric bolts in the front
 

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2001 SLK320 Sport
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93 Posts
what shocks are you guys using? I have H&R's on mine with the lowest pads as well and blew out the front shocks.
 

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1998 SLK 230
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2,648 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
i have koni yellow adjustable shocks... putting in the h&r springs this weekend.

i will go for #4 on front and #2 on rear.. and see how it goes. i think #1 is too low esp for the front...
 

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1998 SLK 230
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Discussion Starter #8
to work out pad size front / rear MB use a "points" system.

you have base points for each model (both for front and rear) and then you + values depending what options you have.

at the end you get a number for front and rear. then you look it up on the chart. mine ended up being #5 front and #3 rear... and thats what i have in the car. so to maintain the relationship b/w front and rear i will drop it to #4 and #2 for the h&rs.... if i want to go even lower id drop it to #3 and #1
 

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1998 SLK 230
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Discussion Starter #10
just FYI.....

i went with #4 front and #2 rear. this left me a 2 finger gap all round. i dont think H&R springs settle as they are pre-loaded from factory, so this will be the final height.

im happy with this as its an even drop, and not too low. most importantly handling has improved on the H&R's (running with Koni yellow shocks).

also checked on the MB wheel alignment computer everything is still OK within spec (even rear camber). only caster on the front wheels got thrown out < 1 degree.

gap actually will be smaller as the rubber i have on now has hardly any tread left...
 

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'00 SLK230 Designo Copper
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204 Posts
Update Request

Subby, are you still happy with the spring/pad/shock combo you went with? I'm looking to do a drop now myself. I like the height you've pictured above. Did it settle any? I realize I'll lose some ride comfort, was it that noticeable from stock? Sorry for all the questions, just wanting to get all my ducks in a row before I make the purchase and install. Did you do it yourself? Or have a mechanic do it? I'm planning to do it myself, then have it realigned professionally. And can you tell me what size differences are between #1, 2, 3 & 4 spacers in mm? That's how they are sold here in Germany. I want a 30mm drop so, my thought is to go with H&R over Eibach as my research has H&R with a little softer ride than Eibach. But, since H&R is a 40mm drop as opposed to the Eibach at 30mm, I need to add 10mm with the H&R. Does this sound reasonable to you?

Any input from others on this would also be much appreciated!

Thanks in advance!
 

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1998 SLK 230
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Discussion Starter #12
1) it settled a little bit after mths and mths but we are only talking < 5mm of settling so nothing special

2) ride comfort should be good with stock shocks, but im running konni yellows (adjusted to one turn) for a firmer feel. this gives me very little body roll if at all.. go kart handling!

3) H&R springs for drop and peformance (stiffness), eibach for gentle drop and less agressive stiffness

4) did it with a friend... need a MB style spring compressor, standard ones wont work. can buy or hire one. the fronts were easy to do, but the rears were a bit trickier. main issue was getting the spring compressor to fit to be able to compress the spring far enough to remove it. kept re-aligning the compressor. this was only an issue on the back no drama just takes a tad longer.

5) with the mm of the pads i dont have time to look them up now but im sure they are on the forums here if you do a quick search "lowering pads" etc.

6) with my lowering it didnt effect the wheel alignment much. you have to be careful with the back if you lower it too much it will throw the camber off and you will chew the inside of your tires. the SLK does NOT have adjustable camber arms from factory on the back only toe adjustable. if you drop too far you will have to get adjustable camber arms for the back if you want to save your tires. front is OK
 

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'00 SLK230 Designo Copper
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1) it settled a little bit after mths and mths but we are only talking < 5mm of settling so nothing special

2) ride comfort should be good with stock shocks, but im running konni yellows (adjusted to one turn) for a firmer feel. this gives me very little body roll if at all.. go kart handling!

3) H&R springs for drop and peformance (stiffness), eibach for gentle drop and less agressive stiffness

4) did it with a friend... need a MB style spring compressor, standard ones wont work. can buy or hire one. the fronts were easy to do, but the rears were a bit trickier. main issue was getting the spring compressor to fit to be able to compress the spring far enough to remove it. kept re-aligning the compressor. this was only an issue on the back no drama just takes a tad longer.

5) with the mm of the pads i dont have time to look them up now but im sure they are on the forums here if you do a quick search "lowering pads" etc.

6) with my lowering it didnt effect the wheel alignment much. you have to be careful with the back if you lower it too much it will throw the camber off and you will chew the inside of your tires. the SLK does NOT have adjustable camber arms from factory on the back only toe adjustable. if you drop too far you will have to get adjustable camber arms for the back if you want to save your tires. front is OK
I appreciate you taking the time to respond...and so quickly. :thumbsup:

I had read the opposite on firmness b/w the 2, but I guess if I'd stopped and thought about it, a shorter compression (H&R) would obviously yield a stiffer ride. :twak:

If the back is what gave you the most trouble, then I feel fine doing it on my own. I replaced the rear linkages, shocks and control arms several months ago using a 4-point lift and a transmission jack to get everything back in place. Benefits of having access to a fully fitted automotive hobby shop, thanks to the U.S. government. :rolleyes:

I have 10mm spacers on the rear wheels, that's why I don't want to go any further than 30mm on the total drop. Maybe the Eibachs are the way to go for me, just may need a little more pad up front since it sits about 10mm lower than the back. I want it to be level front to back. I haven't replaced the front shocks yet, was waiting for the drop job, but that shouldn't change the stock height. Though I did notice the height was a little higher after replacing the rear shocks, but I'm thinking that was my bad on how I went about tightening all the linkages. Tried to do as much as I could with the weight of the car, but obviously couldn't get to all the bolts that way. :(
 

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1998 SLK 230
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Discussion Starter #14
rear shocks shouldnt change height. if you changed some bushings etc then it may change it slightly...

the reason why the front maybe lower is because given the age of the car and km's the front springs are sagging due to the weight placed on them. that was the case with my car i thought id have to drop the back heaps to match the front... but didnt have to. the front springs were "worn" causing the front to be lower and raise the back more than usual.

from memory (again cant remember 100% here) i went #4 (or #5?) pad front, and #2 rear.... i probably could have gone #1 rear but the difference wouldnt have been all that much
 

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1998 SLK 230
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Discussion Starter #15
heres a recent side on pic from track day...

fairly level front and back.. like i said back could have gone 3mm lower but hey no big deal... if i went lower it would scrape my exhaust pipe (leading to my aftermarket resonator) over speed bumps as it sits low...

this is on 17" rims though... 18"s would fill it more.

so this is fine for me!
 

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'00 SLK230 Designo Copper
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rear shocks shouldnt change height. if you changed some bushings etc then it may change it slightly...

the reason why the front maybe lower is because given the age of the car and km's the front springs are sagging due to the weight placed on them. that was the case with my car i thought id have to drop the back heaps to match the front... but didnt have to. the front springs were "worn" causing the front to be lower and raise the back more than usual.

from memory (again cant remember 100% here) i went #4 (or #5?) pad front, and #2 rear.... i probably could have gone #1 rear but the difference wouldnt have been all that much
Can't explain why the back came out higher after the shock R/R, though with new control arms and linkages, there where new bushings for sure. Age and mileage make sense on the front sag. Thanks for the pic! That helps alot...and it looks great! And, again, I appreciate your responses! :thumbsup: I'll post pics once I get it done.
 

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1998 SLK 230
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Discussion Starter #17
pad numbers part no. and height of each pad in mm... (in PDF doc)
 

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This is how my car now sits after installing bilstein shocks and eibach springs lowered 30mm. Can subby please, please, please help me with the pad selection I need for it to look the same as his car. The wheel tire combo are 265/30/19 rear and 225/35/19 front. I really am at my wits end to get this done properly once and for all.
 

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1998 SLK 230
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Discussion Starter #20
no probs, see the attached pics.

you use the MB "points" system to calculate the "points" for front and rear of the car.

once you total the points you will get a number for front and rear, and that will give you the number pad.

to drop it correctly just subtract 1 from each.

say you might calculate #4 for front and #3 for rear, then just subtract 1 and it will be #3 front and #2 rear. this will keep the balance right and stance right.

also when putting them in make sure the springs line up in the stops correctly in the pads and in the controll arms in the bottom
 

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