Thanks to John at Adjustable Air Ride I got my delivery within 2 days of order and they look geat! Installation instructions are spot on and I'm plugging in my camera to ensure I have clear pics. I'm looking forward to this. Shouldn't take more than 1hr & 1/2. Hardest part will be photos.
On the rear you can lower the link by bending the lower brackets down with pliers or a crescent wrench, you can bend the bracket until it's nearly touching the a-arm but when driving you'll bounce off the bump stops, bend them back up for a better ride.
The ML63 is already lower than other models. I like my ML63 level, not raked. So I first lowered the rear then raised it to a comfortable ride, and I didn't have to lower the front. But to do so you space the bracket from the a-arm with a couple of washers and a longer 10mm bolt.
I get where your going but I like the idea of having a stronger, billet aluminum adjustable arms.
Finally got my sons rear end mod done in his JZX. Finished my wifes Tahoe brake job so it's my turn! Got the camera loaded so now I'm doing pads, rotors and the Airmatic adjustable arms to lower. Can't wait!!!!
I'm being very patient. This is an all in one job. I 'm doing rotors and pads and had to send the f**king rotors back. All the adjusters are on and I have pics waiting to set the car on the ground and finish this.
Stay tuned sports fans.
Finished with the brakes set the car down and biiiiig grins . It works!!! and the great part is its fully adjustable so if want level, rake, almost oem, Boom!
Thanks a pant load to John at adjustableairride.com You D man!
I highly recommend this to anybody thinking about those fancy ECU type air ride controller B.S. This was so easy my wife could have done it. By the way she still likes how the ML rides apres' lower. She digs that its easier to climb in to. She has back problems.
So doing some of Santa's work but should be able to post pics tonite
I dropped it 3" and then came back up to 2 1/4" up front and 2 3/4" rear.
You can feel the noticeable sport setting, it's not harsh but does feel more precise. It's hard to put into words so I'll just say compared to stock; in sport lowered, you get better feel and is a lot more comfortable than say an H&R lowering coil spring. It's still an SUV and isn't going to out handle a SLR but it's lower and tighter.
Hi, welcome to the W164 forum. Put your general area and car in your user sign on. Others can reply to your posts without the confusion, much faster being able to reply to a more tailored thread; it's good practice to put your car (350,500, 550 bluetec) and your general area in your sign on.
Go back and click on the Airride icon. It gives all the details.
A word of warning with these links, particuarly if you live in a cold climate as Ive just found out.....with road salt and general wetness getting in, the joints corrode over time and eventually sieze or snap.
Mine were on for a year and a half or so before this happened yesterday and one of the airbags popped taking out a sensor with it.
Speaking with the tech this morning hes told me that the joint seized and the pin just rotated freely within the arm meaning the system didnt know how high the car was forcing excess pressure in blowing the bag.
Not cheap to sort and not a mod I'll be doing again in a hurry.:surrender:
This shouldn't have happened. The cup is a synthetic (Delrin) and the ball is stainless with a galvanized arm. Rust isn't possible. Something else happened to the joint to cause this. Your situation was unfortunate but The socket or cup on the adjustable arm is made OEM protective and use the MB ball pins. The socket even has a soft protective boot covering the joint. Something else happened causing a fail.
Do you have any pictures of the rods or cup failure you could share?
So I got a flickering lcd cluster on my 2010 ml350. I take it to the mechanic and he offered a used part. He plugs it in and gets "-----" as the mileage.
He plugs his computer in to program the milage and forgets that Mile and Kilometers are different he then goes and enters Kilometers in the...
My display screen on my 2008 ML350 started to flicker a few days ago and has now gone out altogether. This is the part that displays the odometer and various other information. Also I noticed strange marks where the "P" for park alphabet is. I guess it's gone bad or there's a short. So...
anybody experienced that problem? I got a leak at the top of the control head. I saw in an other thread that someone replace it at the dealer $2000 it's a lot of $$$$. I'm thinking of using lucas rack and pinion stop leak first, but I'm afraid that will damage the pump. I think that I have to...
Are there known chronic problems with the OM 642 BlueTec? I was considering a 2011 ML350 with 113K miles. It checked out fine except my mechanic "thought" he heard some noise on the cold start. Warned me that he had 2 customers recently with timing chain failures (at 140K) resulting in ruined...
Ok...my gearshift lever came away from the steering column on my 2006 ML500. Anyone know how I can shift the car into reverse and then drive to get it over to my mechanic. The wires are still attached to the dangling lever so I can get it into park, but not into reverse or drive. Called my...
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