[Jousua]

I am on a mission to lower my E320. Currently, I installed some Bilstein B6 HD shock absorbers. I didn't get the sport ones because I wanted to retain some of the smooth riding. B6 ones are already pretty stiff. Would lowering it with the springs make it even more of a noticeably stiff ride?

I wanted to purchase some H&R 29724-2 lowering springs, which drops is on average 1.4 inches in the front and 1.3 in the back. Which after it settles, I will buy some spring pads to do the final adjustments in size.

I know that the camber will be off, so I will eventually need to get some new rear camber arms and front camber bolts. Does anyone know where I can get some bang for the buck rear camber arms? I found a few in the range of $200 doing a google search, but I have no idea of the quality. Only one I notice people really enjoyed using were speedybenz's rear camber arms, but his website seems spam filled and dead.

Front camber bolts and pads I read should be purchased from the dealer?

Thanks!

 

[260e crusier]

As far as I know, the only difference between B6s and B8s is the length of the shock. The B8s are about 1" shorter and are meant to be used with lowering springs.

I have B6s and Eibach on my 1999 E320. There isn't any problem with B6s with lowering springs on the W210 as the B6s are about 1" shorter than the stock shocks in the front.

The ride is surprisingly smooth.....only slightly harsher on rough roads. A good trade off for the big increase in handling.

I've haven't install the camber bolts yet. I haven't notice any unusual tire wear with a square set up of 235/45/17 tires rotated every 6-7K miles.

 

[260e crusier]

The tires can also make a big difference in the ride smoothness. Love my current Michelin Pilot Sports 4S. The Michelin Pilot A/S+ is also good but seems to get noisy after 10-15K miles.

 

[khomer2]

I am on a mission to lower my E320. Currently, I installed some Bilstein B6 HD shock absorbers. I didn't get the sport ones because I wanted to retain some of the smooth riding. B6 ones are already pretty stiff. Would lowering it with the springs make it even more of a noticeably stiff ride?

I wanted to purchase some H&R 29724-2 lowering springs, which drops is on average 1.4 inches in the front and 1.3 in the back. Which after it settles, I will buy some spring pads to do the final adjustments in size.

I know that the camber will be off, so I will eventually need to get some new rear camber arms and front camber bolts. Does anyone know where I can get some bang for the buck rear camber arms? I found a few in the range of $200 doing a google search, but I have no idea of the quality. Only one I notice people really enjoyed using were speedybenz's rear camber arms, but his website seems spam filled and dead.

Front camber bolts and pads I read should be purchased from the dealer?

Thanks!

1) B6s were not designed with lowering springs installed. B8s were designed for use with lowering springs.
Installing lowering springs after the fact (with B6s) may be a potential issue. I am not 100% sure. My son had swapped out on his w202 Kompressor the oem springs that were in place with eibach lowering springs and replacement pads reducing dimples for ride height. An issue arose on the front spring where the pad partially popped out from the tower.
Possibly due to the oem shock not designed for lowering spring use. At any rate, this has been remedied with B8s and spring pads. Improved firm ride and the B8 shocks are performing as they should with the lowering springs.

2) Be wary of the drop - note and review the term "motion ratio"

3) camber kits - I've used kmac on the w202 front (in my scenario). rear - (energy suspension) and polyU bushings - off fleabay.

4) pad from any reputable online shop that distributes the oem pads

 

[tabijan]

Does the Sport package have lower suspension? That might be a source of used parts.

AFAIK, these cars come with fixed front LCA bolts and MB sells 2-position bolts rather than the more common continuously adjustable cam bolts. Between fixed and 2-position at the front bushing and the same at rear bushing, there are 9 discreet camber settings for each front wheel.

Please let me know if someone sells continuous cam bolts or crash bolts for these cars.

Sixto
98 E320 wagon 197K miles

 

[khomer2]

Does the Sport package have lower suspension? That might be a source of used parts.

AFAIK, these cars come with fixed front LCA bolts and MB sells 2-position bolts rather than the more common continuously adjustable cam bolts. Between fixed and 2-position at the front bushing and the same at rear bushing, there are 9 discreet camber settings for each front wheel.

Please let me know if someone sells continuous cam bolts or crash bolts for these cars.

Sixto
98 E320 wagon 197K miles

tabijan,
yep, the sports pkg on these, do have a lower suspension.

 

[260e crusier]

tabijan,
yep, the sports pkg on these, do have a lower suspension.

Is this regarding the W202? The W210 NA W210 sport package is cosmetic in nature as far as I know except the E55.

 

[khomer2]

Is this regarding the W202? The W210 NA W210 sport package is cosmetic in nature as far as I know except the E55.

I have a local whose sport model e430 has the oem lower suspension vs the non-sport versions.
No on the w202, as far as I am aware.

 

[raymond-]

it's going to take a lot more to convince me that lowering spring matched with a shock with longer travel resulted in a bulging spring pad. that is quite a reach in conclusion to me. not hating on you, but just based on the geometry of the combined parts....it just isn't making any sense to me.

 

[crispiecream]

Has anyone just replaced the spring pads to #1s all around and not change anything else besides a better sway bar? I just wanted a little lower of a drop basically from 17 mm to 5 mm. It should drop the car a little and also help the handling some, right?

 

[khomer2]

Has anyone just replaced the spring pads to #1s all around and not change anything else besides a better sway bar? I just wanted a little lower of a drop basically from 17 mm to 5 mm. It should drop the car a little and also help the handling some, right?

Motion ratio and spring shims.
Typically, a 5mm change in bump shim height = approx 1/2" change in spring height (due to geometry)
A drop in height itself does not make any noticeable improvement in handling. It improves the look (ie. minimizes the wheel gap)
For suspension improvement, you can swap the swaybar and the bushings to polyU. But beware, that any change you make with the front, will affect you rear end handling. (possibly more or less oversteer, depending on your driving habits)

 

[raymond-]

crispiecream, you imply that you are already riding on 17mm pads. usually, in stock configuration
the pads may be in the middle so perhaps more like 13mm or so. You may wan't to crawl under
the car with a flashlight to ID the pad number (rubber nubs at the edge of the pad) so that you
have a known starting point.

changing the suspension can open up a can of worms (and expenses) as this is all inter-related.

I would also ask you what specifically you mean when you say 'handling'?

I remember posting a blather about this years ago .... let me look for it. ah, found it here

 

[crispiecream]

Thanks. Do you know if the US based w210 e55 are any lower than the w210 e320? Thinking maybe that is another option to lower as well. I heard the Euro versions were lower but not really sure about the US version of the e55?

Motion ratio and spring shims.
Typically, a 5mm change in bump shim height = approx 1/2" change in spring height (due to geometry)
A drop in height itself does not make any noticeable improvement in handling. It improves the look (ie. minimizes the wheel gap)
For suspension improvement, you can swap the swaybar and the bushings to polyU. But beware, that any change you make with the front, will affect you rear end handling. (possibly more or less oversteer, depending on your driving habits)

 

[crispiecream]

Thanks. I actually was reading that article. in regards to handling. my biggest issue is when I am on the freeway and the body roll I get when I am trying to change lanes. I am not looking to have too much of a change to any little thing that can help with the body roll would be good. The biggest reason why I am considering the smaller pads is to hope to help reduce the body roll without doing a considerable amount which could "open a can of worms".

So I figured between the better front sway bar as well as having the car sit a little lower without changing the to an aftermarket spring, I was hoping to bring some reduction to body roll. I also heard that the euro e55 springs maybe another option to look into.

crispiecream, you imply that you are already riding on 17mm pads. usually, in stock configuration
the pads may be in the middle so perhaps more like 13mm or so. You may wan't to crawl under
the car with a flashlight to ID the pad number (rubber nubs at the edge of the pad) so that you
have a known starting point.

changing the suspension can open up a can of worms (and expenses) as this is all inter-related.

I would also ask you what specifically you mean when you say 'handling'?

I remember posting a blather about this years ago .... let me look for it. ah, found it here

 

[260e crusier]

I did modifications on my 1999 E320 in steps. I wanted better handling, but at that time wasn't sure how far I wanted to take it.

My modifications on a 1999 E320 with 72K miles:

1) Replaced the original shocks with Bilstein B6s. Significant improvement in handling. An easy DIY. No significant harshness in ride after 500-1000 miles.

Handling on freeway on ramps at higher speed was not even close to my former 260E with B8s and Eibach Pros though........so on to the next step.

2) I bought a H&R front sway bar and new MB links. I wanted to get the rear one too. After some research, I pass on the rear as it requires dropping the rear subframe to install.

Small improvement for the money and it was a bit*h to install. H&R use a different mounting for the end link. The bushing goes on a bolt with a ridge in the middle that matches a groove in the bushing..........I couldn't get the new bushing on that bolt even after trying every trick in the book! End up reusing the old bushing which has some wear but was still good.

In retrospect, I wouldn't do this modification again. Not the biggest bang for the buck and time to install it.

3) Decided to do it right by lowering the car. Bought Eibach Pro coils. Didn't go with H&R because streetability is just as important as handling to me. I kept the B6s. The valving is the same as B8s as I understand it. The B6s are about 1" shorter than the stock Sachs, so length hasn't presented any problem.

This was my first time installing coil springs. I won't lie.........it was scary. There's a learning curve and the first one took me 3 hours (front). The fourth one (rear) only 30 minutes. I have to say this is one of my most satisfying DIYs.

I replaced all my spring pads to #1s. The car has a noticeable rake to it. I have slightly more than 3" clearance in the front. So far, haven't hit the frame on anything. Did scrape the plastic belly pan several times when I couldn't negotiate a steep driveway at an angle.

I believe Raymond went with #2 pads in the front and #1 pads in the rear of his car. If I was to do this again, I would do the same.

I would NOT change just the pads without doing the coil!!! Changing out the pads requires about 75% of the work to do the coils and you will get virtually no improvement in handling.

4) Changed the stock 16" rims to 17" with Michelin Sport Pilots 4S. This modification was not cheap. I have to say these tires are great. Nice ride, feedback and great traction dry or wet. A must have if handling is one of your priority.

5) Don't know if you can really call this a modification. I keep my gas tank at least half full. People who do this will know why.

 

[260e crusier]

@ Crispiecream

Which year and model car do you have? Mileage?

Biggest bang for the buck for handling will be new shocks if yours are worn out.

My 2000 E320 with 129K miles which I got recently have newer Bilstein B4s on it. It handles a lot better than my 1999 E320 with worn shocks at 72K miles.

 

[raymond-]

I did essentially the same thing that 260e did. Over a 2 year period, in my quest for less body roll in slalom like transitions I tried

• cut spring (too harsh for me)
• Vogtland lowering springs (too harsh)
• Koni 3-way, yellow tube adjustable (insufficient rebound damping)
• Eibach springs (just right)
• Bilstein heavy duty shocks with more compression and rebound dampening
• Bilstein Sport shocks (same as previous but 1" shorter to fit springs)
• thinner spring pads (with my 99, each pad only lowered it about 1.5x the pad difference and not the 5mm=.5" posted by khomer2)
• no sway bar change
• I don't drive it much but after several years, I've yet to see camber tire wear (but I have camber arms just in case)

don't forget that tire size also is a factor. I began with staggared 265-35-18 rear and 245-40-18 front. Given the lower stance,
the front fender arch lip made contact with the tire shoulder during firm compression. Based on some pencil/paper scribbling
and simple math, I opted a narrower 225-40-18 front. I also rolled the arch lip flat (which comes standard from the factory for E55).
This resolved the tire scraping.

End result: The body roll is all but eliminated. It's like a slot car. The springs are okay on freeway and good pavement but you
feel the harshness when you drive over poor(er) pavement. Not punishing...but you think "ah, yes, it's a lowered car" feel.
My brother has a 2006 BMW 650i and rode in my car last week. He said it rode smoother on the freeway than his (whatever
that means).

I bought the Klann clone spring removal tool. This allowed me to do the job myself ... though the thought scared the crap out
of me at first (like 260e). The first time I did this, I wore welding gloves and a motorcycle helmet. I'm glad I purchased it as
I've changed the springs 3-4x so rental would have paid for it several times over.

I drive the car about 500 miles/year. Occasionally, I think of selling it ...then I take it out for 'one last spin' and I smile and
go "I'm keeping this !"

too bad you're so far away, crispie. you could go for a ride and kind of feel this for yourself. driveability is a bit subjective
so no words can really convey how it feels. the steering is light, given the 225 front tire

 

[illest]

I cut springs on my old 4-matic and swapped the spring pads. It rode ok but was not that great and changing the pads did not make much of a difference.

If you change the spring pads get larger ones for the rear to prevent reverse rake.