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1997 S500V
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272 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
HI,

I just replaced my lower control arms bushings and wanted to share some pix. I would consider the job med to difficult, about 6hr. for one and less than 3hr for the other. I used a free rental spring compressor and giant C clamp tool from Autozone. O'Reilly's and Pep boys have the exact same tools for free. Having an assortment of common tools and an air rachet was helpful. I ordered 2 LCA bushing sets from Rockauto.com for about $31/ea. This is not a tutorial but just some pix with a few explanations....

This pix just shows everythig disconnected with the spring compressor holding the spring in the upper perch. Brake calipers just hanging by some coat hanger. Spindle laying down on it's side. You'll have to disconnect the front shock, steering arm, lower ball joint, and stabilizer end links.

Used a chisel to punch out both 2pc bushings which are just rubber and aluminum housing.

Used a C clamp to press in one side and eccentric nut/bolt to press other half including the coupler. Finished with the big C clamp with an air rachet.

You can see the torn bushings on the 1pc. The 1pc. are hydraulic filled encapsulated in rubber and held together by a thin outer plastic cylinder. You can hear the oil swishing around when you shake it.
The 1pc was pressed out with the C clamp then chiseled out around the aluminum outer edge. Stout pieces...1pc bushing was tapped in by dead blow hammer. It went in easily with a little bit of grease.
 

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1997 S500V
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272 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
Couple more pix...1pc. bushing getting tapped in.
Hopefully, the pix are self explanatory:) Contrary to popular belief, a special MB hydraulic tool is not necessary. Just experiment and play with that giant C clamp and you can safely get bushings out and in quickly.
 

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1997 S500V
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272 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
The old 2pc bushing set looked OK but they was too much play in the 1pc hydraulic.
 

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1997 S500V
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272 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
I forgot a few other details for the DIYer, don't forget to mark the LCA eccentric bolt radial position since the adjusts camber. Only tighten LCA bolts after everything is put back together and loaded. The 2pc. bushings are elongated so make note of how they are oriented based on 1 and 2 rubber tits. Use lots of penetrating fluid and I separated the ball joint from the vertical joint to make things easier.
 

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2004 Toyota Avalon XLS
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1,269 Posts
This needs to be done on my car, however I don't have a garage to do it in, nor do i have the necessary tools, so I'll have to take it in. Luckily i've got an aftermarket warranty to help me, just pay the $100 deductible.

I always try to do a job on my own, IF it costs less than the $100 deductible... and, heh, with this car i'll hardly have any of those opportunities.
 

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1997 S500V
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272 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
$62 total for both LCA bushings but labor intensive, my wrists and arms still a hurtin'

With a $100 deductible, how much does your warranty cost? How would you make a claim to replace the LCA bushings?
 

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Premium Member
1997 S600 (sold)
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4,660 Posts
This needs to be done on my car, however I don't have a garage to do it in, nor do i have the necessary tools, so I'll have to take it in. Luckily i've got an aftermarket warranty to help me, just pay the $100 deductible.

I always try to do a job on my own, IF it costs less than the $100 deductible... and, heh, with this car i'll hardly have any of those opportunities.
As mentioned, I would be surprised if these bushings are covered under a warranty. Probably considered a normal wear item.

Brett
 

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1993 S600 Lorinser
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183 Posts
Excellent pics Brett! Why did you replace the bushings? Were you getting a front end shimmy? Or was it just that it didn't feel as tight as it once did?
 

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1997 S500V
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272 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Thanks Brett!

I was getting the typical steering wheel shake from 45-70mph with 144kmi.
The MB dealer had an alignment sale for $85 which reduced the shake. IMO, the 3 biggest factors causing the steering wheel shake are: 4 wheel alignment, tire condition and pressure, and LCA bushings condition. All 3 greatly reduced the shake to my satisfaction. I run 35psi in the tires.

BTW, I just replaced my motor mounts again with Boge mounts this time. I used cheapo mounts back in June 2007 and 3 months later, they were shot. Symptoms were vibration during idle and reduced oil filter cap clearance. The cheapo mounts were cracked around the rubber and collapsed. Don't go cheap parts!

Hopefully the Boges will hold up for 50-100kmi and I also replaced the tranny mount. The old one showed signs of rubber cracks. Tranny mount took only 10min. and the motor mounts about 2hrs. this time around...
 

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92 W140 300SD 97 VW Jetta TDI 89 VW Fox diesel
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996 Posts
Nice work. I had such a time with mine I ended up splurging for new Lemforder lower control arms preloaded with bushings....not that I wanted to...
 

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2017 Ram EcoDiesel, 2014 GLK 350, 2013 BMW R1200GS KC
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1,154 Posts
Good instructions with lots of pictures and you show an alternative method to G-AMG's excellent tutorial. Thanks for posting!

I plan on replacing my LCA bushings this weekend if my parts arrive on time. Although I have access to a shop with a press and all kind of tools I do not have the MB tools at my disposal.

There are always workarounds; I learned that working on my 560SL and as a mechanic for almost 40 years.
 

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2017 Ram EcoDiesel, 2014 GLK 350, 2013 BMW R1200GS KC
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1,154 Posts
Also, Meyle HD bushings have been great for me and are fully rubber, not liquid filled.
That's why I ordered! Meyle HD bushings and I ordered Myle HD lower vball joints, they were cheap enough......figured while I have everything apart, might as well replace them too. The only really pricey were the LCA bolts since they come only from MB.

Didn't know the the bushings were not oil filled.
 
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