[e320from96]

Check this out, right after R/Ring rear subframe bushings, on the tired test drive to enjoy the reward of my labour.... there goes the front end...

I'm pretty sure the train tracks, which were reminiscent of a jump for Super Dave Osborne, bent the left LCA, then jacking the other side up today the weld cracked for good as the weight transferred (very bad noise that scared the daylights out of me). Pulled 20 degrees to the left after the initial hit but drove okay to lab and back today despite a underlying bad feeling.

The left side shifted so that the knuckle has moved relative to the shock... I am wondering if you all think I can get away with new control arms both sides, new ball joints, and a standard alignment, or if the subframe is knocked out of wack now and requires more... car is a 1996 E320, here are the pics of the right vs left side...
(close up with light is damaged left side)

Let me know what you think, really hoping I will not regret keeping the old girl alive after this one.. but concerned about restoring geometry. Any tips or advice would be awesome, not experienced at all RE: getting alignments as my past vehicles I've been too broke (student) to bother unless tie rod related. Also any good threads/tips you have saved regarding LCA R/R and front suspension refreshing in general would be great.

As well, I think I am going to grind off the sealant on the perches and run welds around them too. Anyone done this before, or reenforced them in general?

Thanks, and check your W210 control arms!

 

[260e crusier]

Hate to say it..............your car has terminal cancer. Let it rest in peace.

 

[khomer2]

More like a salt attack, and no maintenance rinse thats regularly needed in these salt belt regions.

 

[cdk4219]

Please change the title from “Pothole” to just “corrosion “. Running over some bubble gum at that point of neglect would have proven the same result.

 

[e320from96]

Okay for clarification, it split at the weld and bent out, creating the rust hole like cavity. The other side was in much much better shape.. It's a 30 year old Ontario car of course corrosion is a factor.
Even a week ago I was checking balljoints and all seemed fine with the LCAs in the "lets keep an eye on that, plan for bushings soon" sense. Yes of course the Ontario winter salt is to blame... just it happens to be at the same weld that non-rust belt 210s also seem to snap at? Correlation != causation.

I read earlier that later model control arms have an extra drain hole strategically placed at this low point to prevent this.

Still cheaper than buying another car. I like Benzie and she runs too well to scrap, would break my heart with all the love I've put into her

 

[Hirnbeiss]

I would replace the LCA but would leave the spring perch alone. When it goes, I would interpret it as a sign from Ganesh that you should move on to a W211.

 

[e320from96]

I would replace the LCA but would leave the spring perch alone. When it goes, I would interpret it as a sign from Ganesh that you should move on to a W211.

Isn't that just inviting the spring perch to kill me on the highway?

 

[e320from96]

More like a salt attack, and no maintenance rinse thats regularly needed in these salt belt regions.

I wish there was a spray for effective salt repellent. You would think the market would be huge... I would call the product "pepper spray", as it's the opposite of salt

 

[e320from96]

I am going to use the method outlined here: Mercedes E Class W210 Front Spring Perch Failure to strengthen my spring perches. Will post pics of how it goes if the Amazon spring tool doesn't send me six feet under.

 

[khomer2]

Don't forget to inspect the spring cup itself, and clean it up too.

 

[e320from96]

Don't forget to inspect the spring cup itself, and clean it up too.

Rubberized undercoating sorta stuff a good thing to spray on it after cleaning off the old sealer/paint?

 

[natejgreene9871]

I wish there was a spray for effective salt repellent. You would think the market would be huge... I would call the product "pepper spray", as it's the opposite of salt

There is, it’s called grease or you can buy a product called fluid film. My friend who lives in Ohio takes their car to the Amish a few times a year. They heat up a vat of waxy oil and saturate the bottom of the car. Supposedly illegal and highly effective.

 

[e320from96]

There is, it’s called grease or you can buy a product called fluid film. My friend who lives in Ohio takes their car to the Amish a few times a year. They heat up a vat of waxy oil and saturate the bottom of the car. Supposedly illegal and highly effective.

My vision is someway to make a surface "saltphobic" a la silicone waterproofing spray....

I've been spraying a can of rust check (like inferior fluid film but way cheaper here in Canada) every month. It seems to stick around for a while but the salt will stick on top of it. The grease idea is interesting, I wonder how long painting on a skim coat of old bearing grease would last.. maybe I will try that in a few areas and check on it after a few weeks.. I've previously figured grease would allow dirt, salt etc. to stick more and be a case of diminishing returns.

My buddy snagged me a can of fluid film from his work last week - the real stuff is pretty awesome. I would recommend Kleenflo's Honey Goo as a similar product, it's even somehow safe in/around food handling equipment. I'd say the fluid film is 60/40 better for rust proofing than lube, and vice versa for the Honey Goo, which also tends to makes old metal look new, awesome for surface rust on motorcycles.

The Amish seem like they've got it figured out.. I guess carriages rust too? I wonder what oil they use...

 

[natejgreene9871]

My vision is someway to make a surface "saltphobic" a la silicone waterproofing spray....

I've been spraying a can of rust check (like inferior fluid film but way cheaper here in Canada) every month. It seems to stick around for a while but the salt will stick on top of it. The grease idea is interesting, I wonder how long painting on a skim coat of old bearing grease would last.. maybe I will try that in a few areas and check on it after a few weeks.. I've previously figured grease would allow dirt, salt etc. to stick more and be a case of diminishing returns.

My buddy snagged me a can of fluid film from his work last week - the real stuff is pretty awesome. I would recommend Kleenflo's Honey Goo as a similar product, it's even somehow safe in/around food handling equipment. I'd say the fluid film is 60/40 better for rust proofing than lube, and vice versa for the Honey Goo, which also tends to makes old metal look new, awesome for surface rust on motorcycles.

The Amish seem like they've got it figured out.. I guess carriages rust too? I wonder what oil they use...

Watch this

 

[Hirnbeiss]

Isn't that just inviting the spring perch to kill me on the highway?

I don’t think it’s as bad as losing a LCA. The sealant looks intact, and it has made it many years without failing. If you need a project for the remainder of winter, go ahead, but do a bang-up job and reseal it perfectly.
Me personally, I just don’t see the value in heroics on a rusty, basically 24-year-old 210.

Dangerous Issue w210 1997-1999 - Spring Perch - MBWorld.org Forums

E-Class (W210) - Dangerous Issue w210 1997-1999 - Spring Perch - To all: The National Highway Transportation Safety Administration (NHSTA) just completed an investigation on the coil springs and spring perch failure in E class Mercedes build years 1997-1999. (Report completion Aug 9, 2007). The...

mbworld.org

 

[260e crusier]

Isn't that just inviting the spring perch to kill me on the highway?

If the spring perch let go, it probably will take out the LCA with it and heaven knows what else on a rust bucket.

Time to move on.

 

[DEVOURS]

Hate to say it..............your car has terminal cancer. Let it rest in peace.

I wish there was a spray for effective salt repellent. You would think the market would be huge... I would call the product "pepper spray", as it's the opposite of salt

..

.
There is an effective way to slow the rusting down as Teutone suggested. Wash and hard spray the underneath with fresh water after EVERY run in salt. 30 winters in Ontario with regular "salt brine" spraying means that the structure is done. ..It's too late.

What Is Road Salt Brine? - Canada Salt Group Ltd

Brine is a mixture of water and road salt and less corrosive while using snow and ice removal. Read on to know more about road salt brine.

canadasalt.ca

 

[DEVOURS]

Rubberized undercoating sorta stuff a good thing to spray on it after cleaning off the old sealer/paint?

Absolute garbage no matter what the product. It just traps humidity under the rubber coating and it rusts out worse than if nothing had been applied.

Any rock chip will leave a pin hole in that ribber coating ..and the salt and humidity games begin. Years later you see the bubbling show...and you're screwed and the rust has chewed deeply into the the metal....and there is SFA that you can now do to bring it back.

On a new car, if you want to drive in the salt brine,..spray you car every month with "fish oil"...because that will slow the rusting down....if you can find the super sprayer and the needed fish oil..(more enviromentaly friendly)


You want to drive a lot in the salty winter,...buy a beater..and change it every few years..

 

[Former Repair Manager]

I would contact FCP EURO and get all new suspension components for the front end and after a thorough cleaning, I would take it to a shop that does heavy duty under coding to protect from further rust damage. You’re going to need new shocks you’re going to need all new suspension, including ball, joints, control, arms, springs, everything, and a good coating of undercoat.

 

[perry m]

Check this out, right after R/Ring rear subframe bushings, on the tired test drive to enjoy the reward of my labour.... there goes the front end... View attachment 2806079 I'm pretty sure the train tracks, which were reminiscent of a jump for Super Dave Osborne, bent the left LCA, then jacking the other side up today the weld cracked for good as the weight transferred (very bad noise that scared the daylights out of me). Pulled 20 degrees to the left after the initial hit but drove okay to lab and back today despite a underlying bad feeling. The left side shifted so that the knuckle has moved relative to the shock... I am wondering if you all think I can get away with new control arms both sides, new ball joints, and a standard alignment, or if the subframe is knocked out of wack now and requires more... car is a 1996 E320, here are the pics of the right vs left side... (close up with light is damaged left side) View attachment 2806083 View attachment 2806084 Let me know what you think, really hoping I will not regret keeping the old girl alive after this one.. but concerned about restoring geometry. Any tips or advice would be awesome, not experienced at all RE: getting alignments as my past vehicles I've been too broke (student) to bother unless tie rod related. Also any good threads/tips you have saved regarding LCA R/R and front suspension refreshing in general would be great. As well, I think I am going to grind off the sealant on the perches and run welds around them too. Anyone done this before, or reenforced them in general? Thanks, and check your W210 control arms!

This is not uncommon, and by your pictures, yours are beyond overdue for this type of failure. MB Dealer used to replace mine (bushing maintenance, and one of those cracks too)but the last time I needed to do this (other side cracked), bought online and did a perfect replacement. You need to know how of course, a little effort, and time. The only issue I had, was having to go with a little longer after market bolt, long enough to catch the sway bar link to the newly replaced lower control arm. It makes a clunky noise now over bumps, but that was a small payoff. If you want to avoid such quandaries, consider purchasing OEM from the dealer, but it’ll run double.