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1982 300D, 1984 300TD-sold, & 1985 300D(parting/selling)-sold
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122 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Today I have been working on my front end. I have removed everything gotten my lower ball joint out and repressed, have my tie rod read to be installed, and my upper control arm installed, but I cannot remove the bolt holding the lower control arm. Is there any trick other than push harder, I have a small cheater bar but it has not gotten it off yet. I think I have gotten it to turn just a little.Any ideas, thanks.
 

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1984 300D
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5,062 Posts
The torque on the Nut is higher then you might expect if it is the Nut you are having trouble removing.
If it is the Nut clean the rust off of the exposed threads and heat the Nut with a Propane torch. After it has cooled off spray on penetrating oil and let it soak as long as you want..
Heat the nut up again and try to get it off.

The final resort would be to grind or split the Nut. The problem with splitting the Nut is damage to the Bolt and that the bolt has fine threads and you will not find a Nut anywhere local.
You also need to be careful because I know the Uro aftermarket Nuts that came with some parts I bought have coarser threads.

Also when you install and Torque the Nut your Wheels need to be on the Ground in their normal position; meaning the springs and other parts should be on.

The below might be helpful to someone else doing the job:
When I did mine one of my Bolts was corroded to the Aluminum Sleeve inside of the LCA Bushing.
Beating on it with a large Hammer+heat+Penetrating Oil did not help unitl I guessed that part of the force of the Hammer blows was going into the Guide/Thrust Rod and Guide Rod mount.
After I removed the Guide Rod Mount from the Chassis and unscrewed it from the Rod my Hammer Blows started having more of an effect and the LCA Bolt came out.
 
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