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96 C220, 85 300D , 84 300D (sold), 80 300TD (sold)
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Discussion Starter #1
I will be undertaking the replacement of the LCA bushings of my 96 C220. I have all the parts I need and its just a matter of doing it. But I still have to get the $200 MB spring compressor from Baum Tools even if it just for this project as I figured it'll still be cheaper than having my indy do it.

I wish I knew that I need to do this when I replaced the ball joints 2 months ago as I was partly already there with the disassembly.

If anyone has done this work I would appreciate any tips. I believe one of the tricky issues will be the removal of the old bushing from the LCA as its might be stuck there pretty good. Well see. Although I'm in Michigan this car spent most of its life in CA so am hoping that would be an advantage with parts not being oxidized. Thanks.
 

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1995 C280
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when I replaced mine, the rubber was gone. I used a flat blade screwdriver and a hammer to knock the old bushings out. Once you get something started down the side of the metal, they come out pretty easily. I replaced the crappy Mercedes ones with poly. I use dish soap to lubricate the poly bushings if they are tight.
 

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96 C220, 85 300D , 84 300D (sold), 80 300TD (sold)
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Discussion Starter #3
when I replaced mine, the rubber was gone. I used a flat blade screwdriver and a hammer to knock the old bushings out. Once you get something started down the side of the metal, they come out pretty easily. I replaced the crappy Mercedes ones with poly. I use dish soap to lubricate the poly bushings if they are tight.
Thanks. I thought about the poly units but could not justify the extra cost. Plus I figured that if I can at least get another 100k on the car I'd be happy and the bushings should still be fine. If I had a lower mileage 202, maybe.

What did you use for a spring compressor?
 

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1995 C220
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I cheated and did mine without one. Trying to remember as its been a while. I had a lift but you can do it on the ground by putting the car way up on jack stands. Then I think while leaving the nut attached so it doesnt come loose, just loosen ball joint nut up enough so you can pop it loose from knuckle. Nut will keep it from coming all the way out. Then put your jack under the knuckle, put pressure on it so you can remove nut, then lower slowly while staying out of the way of it in case it pops out. It takes alot of travel to get spring loose, which is why you need to get it up on stands as high as you can so you have room to lower it enough.

To be honest, I prefer this method as the spring compressor I tried to use the first time seemed unsafe.
 

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Also if using the oem bushing make sure to take note of the orientation of them and make a mark on the control arm so you know what direction the bushing needs to go. Also, you really need some sort of bushing press to put the stock ones in. The polys just slide in with some grease, but because of the metal sleeve on the stocks, if you dont use a proper tool to press the new ones in you risk damaging them. I personally recommend the OEM ones even though they wear out, simply because I replaced mine with polys and didnt care for the ride quality afterwards. The OEM's definitely ride noticeably smoother. If you dont think you can get them installed, once you remove the control arms, it may be easier for you to drop the arms by a mechanic shop and pay them to press the new ones in. It may be money well spent to avoid the headache.
 

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96 C280 SPORT
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Im dreading this install myself to be honest. What parts did u buy? Im not even sure whats all involved and what parts tO buy to be honest. I just know my mechanic said i need new ones since i took it out of the shop a month ago
 

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1995 C280
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Thanks. I thought about the poly units but could not justify the extra cost. Plus I figured that if I can at least get another 100k on the car I'd be happy and the bushings should still be fine. If I had a lower mileage 202, maybe.

What did you use for a spring compressor?
I did not end up using a spring compressor either. I put the car on jack stands and then put a 2 ton hydraulic jack under the control arm. Remove the pieces holding it on (ball joints, shock) and then slowly lower the jack. Definitely a risk of the spring popping out, but I think it;s pretty minimal. Replacement is the opposite. Slide the spring in, raise just enough with the jack and reconnect everything.
WRT to poly bushings. I have had zero problems with mine over 2 years. You will need to take the LCAs to a shop to have them press in OEM bushings and they will fail again. I think you'll be really lucky to get 100k on the OEM bushings.

It's really not a bad job at all. the first side takes a little longer since you doing it the first time.
 

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1995 C280
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Im dreading this install myself to be honest. What parts did u buy? Im not even sure whats all involved and what parts tO buy to be honest. I just know my mechanic said i need new ones since i took it out of the shop a month ago
I bought poly bushings from FCP Groton and ball joints from BMA (I think). I had a 95 so I had to buy the updated LCA concentric bolts. The part # for the bolts: A2023300118.

You probably want to check your shocks and steering tie rod ends while you're there too.
 

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1999 C280 210k miles
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200 Posts
A spring compressor that attached inside the coil and has a single center bolt for applying compression works quite well and I think is pretty impossible to slip off based in design. Buy from any auto parts store for about $60 or borrow from same. Most have a tool loaner program.
 

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96 C220, 85 300D , 84 300D (sold), 80 300TD (sold)
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Discussion Starter #11
A spring compressor that attached inside the coil and has a single center bolt for applying compression works quite well and I think is pretty impossible to slip off based in design. Buy from any auto parts store for about $60 or borrow from same. Most have a tool loaner program.
You wish..... but this type of spring compressor is mainly designed for german cars available only from eBay or Baum Tools. The ones from NAPA or Autozone are the ones that hook on the outside of the spring and takes superman to make them work. Plus they are not the safest.
 

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96 C220, 85 300D , 84 300D (sold), 80 300TD (sold)
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Discussion Starter #15
cool, and i only need two correct?
Two on each side. The LCA on each side pivots on 2 bushings. I'm guessing you are doing both sides so you need four.
 

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96 C220, 85 300D , 84 300D (sold), 80 300TD (sold)
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Discussion Starter #17
Don't know where that came from but the bushings should be the same construction. Furthermore, since you have to disconnect the LCA anyway, you will have access to both bushings so why not replace both? Why would you not.
 

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1999 C280 210k miles
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Tobybul
The ones that hook from the outside are for MacPherson struts. You need a "coil spring compressor". It will work, but yes, they all take grunt work and yes, springs are real scary!
 

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1995 C280
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from what ive been reading, it says you only need to replace one on each side because the other bushing is like a hard rubber that doesn't deteriorate? is this true?

also, i found some on ebay, what do you guys think?
597C Mercedes C Class W202 94-01 Front Lower Control Arm Bushing Kit | eBay
That matches my experience. The two bushings are not the same construction. One is solid and the other is far from solid. Imagine a solid bushing with the top half and bottom half of the rubber cut out, so you really only have two thin strips of rubber on each side. There you have the Mercedes OEM bushing. The other one didn't look worn at all.
 

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Forgot to add. that ebay auction looks like what I purchased. I can't imagine there is more than 1 source creating those bushings.
 
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