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Discussion Starter #41
EA Throttle body diagnosis so far

Just got a reply from the repair shop that received my EA throttle body today. He wrote that "Yes I got your unit and the problem I saw is bad harness and bad clutch. We usually take 2-4 business days to repair"

Well, it looks like I made a good decision to send the EA throttle body for repair. There is no way I could have repair the throttle body myself
 

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Discussion Starter #42
Pictures of replacement/old throttle body parts

The service repair technician sent me 3 three pictures prior to sending back the throttle body to me. In picture 1, the rebuilt throttle is completed and noticed the white label on the right that should have been green color bar code and was smeared away. In picture 2, another angle of the throttle body rebuilt. In Picture 3, old wire harness, old clutch and gear? were replaced.
 

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Just got a reply from the repair shop that received my EA throttle body today. He wrote that "Yes I got your unit and the problem I saw is bad harness and bad clutch. We usually take 2-4 business days to repair"

Well, it looks like I made a good decision to send the EA throttle body for repair. There is no way I could have repair the throttle body myself
You could easily have repaired it yourself. It is very likely that the only thing wrong with it was the harness. 145k is nothing on a non-ASR throttle body. You don't have to touch the wiring - there's nothing wrong with the wiring. You have to re-insulate the wiring. 10 bucks and maybe an hour of unskilled labor and you would have been good for the life of the car. ASR throttle bodies are a completely different issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #45
Today, the throttle body or EA arrived at my home. Inspected the rebuilt parts along with the defective parts that were replaced, the old wire harness was very fragile with open wires, torn insulation, etc. The other two defective parts including the gear and the clutch, I cannot see why they were replaced. Maybe bent, worn out, etc. Maybe the repair technician did some tests on the old clutch and gear (as shown in the pictures on this thread) and found out to be defective. I was impressed with the EA, very cleaned on top, bottom and all four sides of the EA and brand new wire harness on the EA. I am looking forward to complete the job I was set out to do in the first place. The only thing is holding me up is the grommets will not arrive until Saturday. .

Also, I bought Enginer Degreaser and Permatex Ultra Black Gasket Maker #22072 for the valve cover gasket project and cleaning up the messy oil around the coils, spark plug wires, and other areas near the engine.
 

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Rebuilt throttle bodies have long been considered a questionable enterprise. They don't replace motors, they can't re-manufacture potentiometers. It appears, and has often been reported that they take used ones, clean them, re-wire them, test them, and send them out with a short warranty with their fingers crossed. At least you got some new parts.
 

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Rebuilt throttle bodies have long been considered a questionable enterprise. They don't replace motors, they can't re-manufacture potentiometers. It appears, and has often been reported that they take used ones, clean them, re-wire them, test them, and send them out with a short warranty with their fingers crossed. At least you got some new parts.
^This. That is why the sole real long term solution is to find a good 2nd hand unit on eBay or from forum member Nobletruths, made in 1998 or later. The newer the manufacture date, the longer the expected life you can plan to get out of it.
 

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Discussion Starter #48
deanyel, Thanks for responding. I, too, was skeptical about these repair throttle body outfits. At least, my repaired EA or throttle body has a 3 year warranty.

The 12 Grommets for the bolt sleeves on the valve cover arrived today, a day earlier than I expected along with the new spark plugs (yes, the spark plug part number is Bosch spark plugs F8DC4 preset at .032 gap)

I am a little embarassed about the grommets situation. I was under the impression that the grommets have rubber/metal combo when, in fact, the grommets are all rubber and the metal top part head is part of the overall metal bolt sleeve. I guessed that grommet were so closely tight with the top head that I thought it was all one part like rubber/metal combo grommets. In addition, when removing the old grommet from the bolt sleeve, it was loose and not tight like the new grommets. I apologize for the confusion in that regard. Live and learn.

Now I have all the parts available to me to complete the throttle body reassemby to the intake manifold and the valve cover gasket situation as well. I can't wait to get to work on the Mercedes. Stay tuned.
 

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Discussion Starter #49
Sbaert and Jayare, thank you for your comments/feedback. Sbaert, yes the valve cover kit included the 6 duct seals for the spark plug holes.

The Grommets and sparks plugs arrived today, a day earlier than expected. ((yes, the spark plug part number is Bosch spark plugs F8DC4 preset at .032 gap)

I am a little embarassed about the grommets situation. I was under the impression that the grommets have rubber/metal combo when, in fact, the grommets are all rubber and the metal top part head is part of the overall metal bolt sleeve. I guessed that grommet were so closely tight with the top head that I thought it was all one part like rubber/metal combo grommets. In addition, when removing the old grommet from the bolt sleeve, it was loose and not tight like the new grommets. I apologize for the confusion in that regard. Live and learn.

Now I have all the parts available to me to complete the throttle body reassemby to the intake manifold and the valve cover gasket situation as well. I can't wait to get to work on the Mercedes. Stay tuned.
 

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Discussion Starter #51
Here is the update: After putting everything together, (new valve cover gasket, cleaning up the oil laying around inside the valve cover, rebuilt EA or throttle body), I fired up the Mercedes earlier today. Smooth running engine and letting it run for a few minutes while looking for leaking oil. So far, no blue smoke coming out except only a little bit of smell of burning oil. Could be from old oil that was splattered prior to getting the work done. No smoke coming out of the exhaust tail pipe. No warning lights popped up in the instrument cluster panel. Oil pressure is hovering around between 3 and 2. Will be driving tomorrow to get the full effect of the rebuilt throttle body that was giving me these troubleshootings codes previously as indicated in the title of this post. Will do the codes test tomorrow and will report my findings. Thanks to all wrote and read this post.
 

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Discussion Starter #52
High idling, shift gears drive, reverse hesitation oil sending unit warrning lights

The latest update:

Prior to driving the Mercedes this morning, I did a DM (16 pin diagnostic module) self test. Code 6 shows up. Code 6 refers to Idle speed control faulty. That is the only code showing using the DM.

Did a code reader scan on pin 6, shows code 9, SRS malfunction indicator lamp (A1e15) or time limit for DTC readout /erasing.


Code reader scan on pin 8, one blink meaning no codes.

Code reader scan on pin 10, one blink meanng no codes.

Code reader scan on pin 14, code 2 meaning EA/CC/ISC control module (N4/1) or Safety contact switch (M16/1s1) or Stop lamp switch or Cruise control switch or Actual value potentiometer or Starter lock-out/back-up lamp switch or engine speed signal or vehicle speed signal or closed throttle position switch or safety relay in EA/CC/ISC control module.


Start up the motor and rmp shows high idling around 15000. Normal idling rpm should be around between 7000 rpm and 8000 rpm, even the same rpm when pressing the brake . Oil pressure reading between 2 and 3 needle mark. On the warning lights in the instrument cluster panel shows oil sending unit on. That darn smoke (no blue smoke, just close to clear color type) out behind the engine is still there. No smoke coming out the exhaust tail pipe. Press the brake and put in drive and rpm hovering around 10000 rmp. While shifting from Park to Drive, there is a hesitation between shifts. The same results applied to reverse shift as well. Took a test drive of 25 miles or so. I put on the cruise control and it works!! Smooth driving so far, but I also smell burning smoke coming through inside the car with windows rolled up. Tried the heater on and works normally as well as the air conditioning unit. OIl pressure while drivng stayed on above 3 needle mark. Warning light on the oil sending unit stayed on, went away for awhile and came back on again. When pressing the brake to stop while driving on the road, Oil pressure hovering around between 2 and 3 needle mark.

When I got home, I checked for leaking oil on the engine area and no signs of leaking oil that I can detect of. Also, I checked the oil level on the dipstick and it is fine. I did another dm test and code 6 shows up again. Testing with the code reader on pin 6, no codes. Pin 7, no codes, Pin 8, no codes, Pin 10, no codes, Pin 14, NO CODES!! YEAH, ALRIGHT!! It seems that the throttle body or EA is actually working, (after got it repaired) especially the cruise control unit, but still that darn high idling still persisted as indicated on the Diagnostic Module Self Test code 6, even though there is no codes showing on Pin 14.

Also, clear color smoke was still there along with smelling of burning oil and I was abled to pinpoint the location of the smoke area. It was on the exhaust side near the rear of the engine. There is a pipe or tubing connecting to the EGR valve. I am not sure of the exact spot of the smoke. After turning off the engine and finishing the codes test, I fired up the engine again and this time no smoke or no smell of burning oil. I will continue to monitor the smoke and the burning oil smell.

The only thing left to for me to do at this point is to find out why and fix the high idling even though the repaired throttle body or EA apparently is good, since the cruise control works and no codes showed up on Pin 14. However, on the Diagnostic Module self test shows code 6, meaning Idle speed control faulty. That does not make any sense to me. Could it be the control module (computer) behind the battery is faulty? Loose wiring somewhere? Could the high idling and the shift hesitation in drive and reverse be related? Will have to investigate and research on this and I am hoping that the Throttle body or EA is not the problem. If it turns out that the throttle body is the problem, then I am going to send the EA back to the repair shop that did the work/repaired on the throttle body. The throttle body or EA has a 3 year warranty. In addition. the light up oil sending unit needs to be fix as well. Any feedback/comments on these two issues is greatly appreciated.
 

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The purge valve can cause a high idle if stuck open , easy to check, it's on the inner wing with MOT embossed on the top. This could be related to your original pin 8 code 13 (lamba at rich or lean limit) indicating a vacuum leak.

After doing some work my 3.2 M104 had a high idle, settled down after a few miles and couple of starts. Almost like it had to relearn the idle again.

The oil light is probably the lower engine harness, they need replacing @ the same time as the upper harness/TB
 

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Discussion Starter #54
Possible solutions in resolving Code 6: Idle speed control faulty

Richard F. Thanks for responding in your last post. Yes, the possible cause of the off/on oil sending warning lights on the instrument cluster panel could be the lower wiring harness or also known as Positive B cable wire harness (including two connectors on the wire harness that could be defective (frayed wiring, defective connector, etc.) I believed it is connected to the firewall x27 in front of the oil filter. Also, I will check the oil sending unit connections on the oil sending unit near the oil pan.

I also compiled a list of potential solutions to the DM code 6 (idle speed controller faulty) found on this forum and elsewhere. It is, by no means, not a complete list.

Things to check for high idling:

Try to remove the MAF sensor while the engine running and see if there is any difference and also clean the MAF sensor using MAF cleaner spray.

clean the EGR valve

Vacuum lines near and around the EA missing, loose, not airtight or cracked

Clean the purge regulator in front of engine (remove front chain cover first) The purge regulator is behind the front engine black cover

check the spring on EA and throttle rod to make sure both are intact and in good shape.


Check the RESONANCE IDLE AIR VALVE INTAKE MANIFOLD for electrical wiring connections and the vacuum line connections around the throttle body.

Just for future reference, an idle fluctuation on M104 engines is only caused by one of three problems:

1. a vacum leak

2. a faulty Mass Air Meter

3. a faulty throttle acutator, aka EA / ISC / CC module (Electronic Accelerator, Idle Speed Control, Cruise Control). Throttle Acuators go bad for two reasons. The wirirng harnesses to the throttle actuators has insulation on the wiring that flakes off. This is a problem for 1993-1995 only. Throttle Actuators also have potentioameters that wear out over time.

In some case where clearing DM (pin 3) codes require to go through the clear procedure, then turn ignition off, wait a half a minute or so, then turn igniton back on and check again. You should then get no blinks. You will not get a single blink until you have completed several drive cycles with no faults.

If you have a fluctuating idle, the first thing to check is for a vacum leak as it could be simply a hose that has come disconnected or cracked.


Someone said If the throttle body is clean, but the diagnostics says it is faulty, he still be inclined to remove the whole unit (you would normally have cleaned it from the top without removal) and clean and lube all the linkages and pivots. If it's sticky and tight it will not respond correctly, same scenario.

Another possible solution from someone who had idling issues: Changed the MAF and idle control valve (RESONANCE IDLE AIR VALVE INTAKE MANIFOLD near the throttle body (EA), also changed the fuel pressure sensor and the OVP switch. (Sorry if I had to repeat myself)


These are possible solutions mentioned above. Just throwing in my two cents' worth and hopefully help those who are having these similar issues such as mine. I will go ahead and try these steps and will report my findings. Stay tune for update.
 

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Discussion Starter #56
Possibly other solutions to this issue?

Richad F., thanks for your last post. I appreciated it. The list may look full, but I am not so sure. There could be other solutions to this issue not on the list that I am not aware of.
 

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Discussion Starter #58
LeftCoastGeek, glad you wrote in your last post. No, I had not done that yet. The safe thing to do is take the MAF off, clean the sensor using CRC MAF Cleaner, put back the MAF on and wait for a few minutes to dry and fire up the engine. At least, that was my experience.
 

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i've never had MAF cleaner do any good. if you do use it, hold the MAF at a 45 degree angle, with the connector on the high side, and spray in the upper end of the tube, this way the spray doesn't run down the wires into the electronics on the side where the connector is. but really, as long as the air cleaners have never been left in so long they rotted away, the MAF shoudl stay very clean. ok, I did hear about one MAF on a Volvo that got all nasty after a few years of K&N type oil based air filters, and the spray cleaner cleaned the MAF up fairly good. I've walked away without even a test drive after seeing a K&N sticker on a car I was looking at.
 

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Discussion Starter #60
Today latest Update

Today latest Update:

Removed the MAF sensor and sprayed with CRC MAF cleaner. Put back the MAF sensor to its regular placement.

Ran the dm codes and still code 6 (faulty idling issue). Code reader in pin 8, no codes, pin 14, no codes.

Start the engine. At first, idling needle went up to 13000 rpm, then settled down around 8000 rpm. Pressed the brake, same results (8000 rpm). Put in drive, shifting was hesitating. The same hesitating goes in reverse as well. All shifts showned identical 8000 rpm idling at the same time pressed the brake between shifts.

Drove the Mercedes to the store. Driving was smooth, cruise control works.

Went home, turned off the engine and fired up the engine. Idling went very high around 30000 rpm. Pressed brake and shift to drive, idling went down to the normal range (8000 rpm). At the same time, oil pressure unit was hovering around the needle range of 1 and 2. Oil sending unit warning light on. When accelerating on the pedal. Oil pressure around 3. Smelled burning oil again, same location (source of burning oil is by the EGR valve tube or pipe).

Ran the code reader, same results as above, except pin 8, code 13 (O2S (Lambda) control system operating at rich or lean limit). Cleared the codes with code reader.

Next is to check the oil sending unit by the oil pan and checking the wiring as well. If necessary, I will get a new oil sending unit and to see if that would resolve the issue of oil sending unit warning light as well the floppy needle on the oil pressure unit (to stablize the oil pressure).

If I cannot find the location and source of the oil leak near the EGR valve area while checking the oil sending unit and its wires, then I will take the Mercedes to the shop for oil leak diagnosis.

Also, will check the reasonance valve and throttle EA for vacuum leaks in the area. In addition, checking the wiring for cracks, frayed, etc.

Stay tune for further updates.
 
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