This light has been on ever since my non-Dealer shop replaced the head gasket and replaced the coolant (a year ago). There is still plenty of fluid in the reservoir. I've read all the threads here, but all seem to also involve the washer fluid sensor. That light is NOT on. I've been periodically looking at this and that.
The light comes on during the engine start-up process, along with all the other dash lights, but stays on when the engine starts.
Finally took out sensor last weekend. Tested it by connecting the terminals to an ohmmeter, and moving a magnet along the sensor. It behaved as a working sensor should. With the magnet away, the inside contacts must be staying open, because the circuit stays open. With the magnet near, the contacts apparently close, because the circuit closes.
I put the sensor back in but did not re-connect the wire connector to test a "bad float" theory. I connected the terminal ends again to the ohmmeter. If the float were broken (hard/impossible to see it) and not floating, but had sunken, that would make the sensor turn the dash light on. However, the ohmmeter still showed a break in the circuit - therefore, since I'm convinced the sensor is good, the float/magnet is not closing the contacts in the sensor.
The strange thing, but another clue, is with the sensor connector still not connected, and ignition switch in the ON position, the dash light is still ON. I haven't yet tested if there is current flowing through the wire connector, which there should be, but whether or not there is current, that will not explain why the light is on.
Could there be an instrument cluster problem, or a common or sort-of-common problem of the circuit having a short in a common place ? BTW, if no one has seen the sensor, check my DIY I just posted, which shows how to remove/replace it. Well, I'll also add a pic of it here.
Thx - Dave H.
The light comes on during the engine start-up process, along with all the other dash lights, but stays on when the engine starts.
Finally took out sensor last weekend. Tested it by connecting the terminals to an ohmmeter, and moving a magnet along the sensor. It behaved as a working sensor should. With the magnet away, the inside contacts must be staying open, because the circuit stays open. With the magnet near, the contacts apparently close, because the circuit closes.
I put the sensor back in but did not re-connect the wire connector to test a "bad float" theory. I connected the terminal ends again to the ohmmeter. If the float were broken (hard/impossible to see it) and not floating, but had sunken, that would make the sensor turn the dash light on. However, the ohmmeter still showed a break in the circuit - therefore, since I'm convinced the sensor is good, the float/magnet is not closing the contacts in the sensor.
The strange thing, but another clue, is with the sensor connector still not connected, and ignition switch in the ON position, the dash light is still ON. I haven't yet tested if there is current flowing through the wire connector, which there should be, but whether or not there is current, that will not explain why the light is on.
Could there be an instrument cluster problem, or a common or sort-of-common problem of the circuit having a short in a common place ? BTW, if no one has seen the sensor, check my DIY I just posted, which shows how to remove/replace it. Well, I'll also add a pic of it here.
Thx - Dave H.
