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B180CDI 2007
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Update: 4 days since i replaced the IC hose seals. Regen syclus increases and increases for every regen since replace at last friday. Before replace i had a regen about every 80-100km. For every regen after replace the interval increases. 100km, next 120 km, next 150 km, and last today 170km.

I dont have star diag my self, so i have not done reseting / clearing of the dpf values in ECU. So i think the car have to learn and calculate the new values by itself. A mechanic told me the 10 last regens are stored in the ECU, and as long this values is not resett / cleared the car need time to learn. Like the airfilters, if you replace the airfilters you will need to clear the air values in ECU, if not the car need time to learn and calculate the new values by itself.

Im not 100% sure, but i think this is going the way;) In 4 days, my regen syclus has doubled. Maybe in a couple of weeks i am on 500 - 800 km.

And ArturM, im so very very thankfull for your tip about the IC hose connectors. I have never solved this without your info.

Regards
Kim
 

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B180CDI 2007
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Update: i can still not get rid of this.. It became i bit better after replacing the IC hoses, but not good enough. Regen syclys is now about evry 150km, then the car regens for about 20-30km. I also replaced EGR valve last week, "just as sucpect". Bought a new from ebay. It was a pretty simple job to replace, so i did this job self. But there was no change, same cyclus after replace EGR.

I had star connected again, there is NO codes, NO errors, all fine.

Things I have done:

1. New turbo inlet seal, 2. New nox sensors, 3. New IC hoses left and right, 4. Installed the cars newest software version form star, 5. New EGR valve, 6. Replaced (used) DPF, 7. new EGT sensors, 8. new DPF differential pressure sensor.

But, my ML350 Bluetec continues to make a dpf regen every 150 km. Regen takes about 20-30km.
The next "sucpect" i think is the thermostat. Noting wrong with thermostat, no code. Operation temperature is normal, about 92-93 degrees, but i think i will replace it anyway. Next "sucpect" after thermostat may be injectors.. Maybe one of the injectors is bad, and producing soot.. I dont know. The engine runs very smooth at idle and else, no sign of a bad injector. But, what should i do:) I want to solve this.

Problem is regen cyclus every 150km and loud resonanse sound (like a V8) during the regen is going.

Regards
Kim
 

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W166 ML 350
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27 Posts
Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Hi Kim, I'm very sorry that your problem is not solved. I would look again for any leaks in the boost ducts and check turbine remove the metal cover and look for any signs of black grim. You also said that you have a used DPF filter - did you check the condition of that part, did you program that into ECU with stardiag? I think that only if you are 100% sure that filter, differential sensors, temp sensor are ok and if the filter is correctly programmed into ECU then would be time to search for the cause in the engine. There is also possibility to wash your filter with special DPF high pressure water washing machine, I don't know if that's available in Norway.
 

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Hello again:) The used dpf i replaced is from a 2014 ML350BT, and have only 60.000km at the clock. And i am sure the new filter was clean and in good condition. And yes, the filter is programed into ecu, using star / xentry. In fact the new dpf dont need to be programed into ecu, but the old values form the old filter needs to be cleared / deleted. So all is fine about the used dpf. The regen problem was also the same with my old dpf (before replace). So the dpf itself is not the problem. And again, when star is connected, all is fine. Zero alarms or faults.

I dont think the turbo is the problem. It is clean and dry. And i have no oil smell and no oil smoke.

I forgot to say, i have also replaced the engine breather / pvc valve. This is realy tricky to figure out:) I will post back. I will start focus at the injectors. Or maybe my cat is clogged, and fools the dpf differentilal preassure sensor.. I dont know.

Regards
Kim
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
In that case something must generate excessive shoot in your engine. When first time I had pdf problems it was leaking turbo bearing that killed nox sensors and clogged pdf (turbo may leak oil into dpf). Also check your air filters, air intake duct to the turbo check for blocked pressure differential hoses and then finally check injectors on star. What kind of oil you're using that also may damage dpf?
 

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I blowed compresed air in the hoses for the dpf differential preassure sensor, from sensor into dpf. Just to verify the was not blocked, and they was both open. Oil is: castrol edge 5w‑30 ll c3 ti
Airfilters is brand new. I dont think its a leaking turbo bearing in this case, but i newer no.
I think you have correct in this: "something must generate excessive shoot in your engine". And my first sucpect is one of the injectors. I will continue investigation, and i will not give up:)

Difficult to take a good picture, but the tailpipe is also clean
2650754
 

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So... I finally solved the problem: frequent regeneration syclus and load / deep resonanse sound during regen:)

First, the story: ML350 bluetec regenerates dpf every 150km at city driving, and about every 250km for long therm driving. When regeneration is active, it is also very load resonanse / Bas / V8 sound from exhaust. Like a petrol AMG V8. This regen syclus is all to tight, cyclus should be about every 6-800km. Connected to Star / Xentry multiple times, no error, no code, all fine. Xentry show that the dpf / regen system work as it should. Dpf fills up to 100% soot, when 100% is reached, regen starts. After regen is complete fill level in dpf is about 1-5% soot. So the system work, but the dpf soot level fill to 100% to quick. So, the engine produce to much soot. Mercedes dealer say, no worry all fine. Nothing is wrong, this is the way the car is. You should not worry, to much regen is better than no regen. Dont think aboat it....

But, i was not agree whit the dealer. In my head, this is NOT as it should be. My friends GL350, with the same engine, has a huge longer regen syclus.

I decided to try solve this by myself. So I started to replace sucpected parts, one by one to solve the problem. I replaced: Intercooler hoses, engine breather, turbo inlet seal, nox sensors, dpf pipe (used one), dpf differential preasure sensor, EGR valve and EGT sensors. But no luck, all this did not solve the frequent regen syclus problem. But i was not giving up:)

I talked to a German expert, who told me one or more injectors could be the problem. He said that a bad fuel injector could be very tricky to detect, cause the fuel flow was correct, and the fuel retur was correct. But the fuel atomization could be wrong, and spray the cylinder wall, instead of the top of the piston. And if that was the case, the engine would produce more sot than normal.

So i decided to buy 6 new (remanufactured) Bosch injectors from Germany, and replaced them all six last week. And, Viola...,the problem is solved. Regen cyclus has stretched from 150km to 500km:) The load resonance sound from exhaust during regen is also much less. So, thats the end of the story:) Even engine was running fine, absolutely no sign off bad injectors. BUT, Injector/ injectors was the culprit.

Im am NOT impressed with the dealer, who said all fine. I thought mercedes dealers was experts, and had the best mechanics. But thats very wrong. As long Star / xentry does not show any code, they always say, all is fine.

So the learning:) If you having a ML, GL, R or E class, using the om642.826 bluetec engine, and have frequent regen syclus, engine fans running frequently and idle at 800 rpm, check your fuel injectors😊

So dont give up:)
Regards

Norway
 

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W166 ML 350
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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Hi Kim, great news! (y) Like I told you something was not running optimally in the engine and thus excessive shoot ;)
Where did you buy injectors and how much a piece, what is the part no? My dealer wants 4000 EUR for all six.
 

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Hi Kim, great news! (y) Like I told you something was not running optimally in the engine and thus excessive shoot ;)
Where did you buy injectors and how much a piece, what is the part no? My dealer wants 4000 EUR for all six.
Hello my friend:) Yes you were right:) Im so happy to solved this 8 months nigthmare;) And im very thankfull for your input;) Partnumber for injector is A642 070 11 87. I bought them from Gremany (Ebay). They are remanufactured, with warranty. The print from test bench is included. I paid 850 euro for all six + 250 Euro. Total 1100 Euro. But the 250 Euro i will get refunded if i return the old injectors. But im not planning to do that.
My local mechanic used 3 hours to replace all six, including coding new injectors.

This injectors was cheaper in China, but i did not take the chance buying the China injectors. The ones i got from Germany was Bosch injectors.


Here is the ebay link:


Regards
Kim
 

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Hi Kim,

i had EXACTLY the same problem with my 2012 350cdi located in the Netherlands.

my had 250.000km on the clock.

lucky I took my car to a MB specialist, they said everthing is fine, but they suspected one or more injectors were fauly (my car runned absolutely fine!) no weird noise, always started perfectly.
so i would not believe them, but they assisted to change them.

now everything is fine again! Paid €1800,- for parts, laibor and a oil change because the oil level was raised due to the frequent regenerations.
my injectors came from the same supplier 😉
 

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Hi Kim,

i had EXACTLY the same problem with my 2012 350cdi located in the Netherlands.

my had 250.000km on the clock.

lucky I took my car to a MB specialist, they said everthing is fine, but they suspected one or more injectors were fauly (my car runned absolutely fine!) no weird noise, always started perfectly.
so i would not believe them, but they assisted to change them.

now everything is fine again! Paid €1800,- for parts, laibor and a oil change because the oil level was raised due to the frequent regenerations.
my injectors came from the same supplier 😉
Glad to hear you fixed it:) This has been a 1 year nightmare for me.. All dealers said, it was normal. But i was not happy with their answare:)

I also strongly recomend you to update the ECU firmware, to the newest version, build in 2020. In this one the dpf regen logic is rebuilt. The dpf no longer make a regen at 100% soot in dpf. The limit is set to 50%. But with the new logic it takes longer to reach 50% than it took to 100% before, My regen syclus is now about every 1000km.
 

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I will ask for the update! But now the regenerations a much less frequent as before.

i think i have the newest software:
12 months ago my car stayed 2 weeks at the dealer, had to replace a bad Nox sensor because of the “max 800km drive error”

after they replaced the sensor, the need to update the software...
thats when the shit begins.... computer crashed while doing the update! So the car died also... nothing worked anymore!

They need new software from the factory, after a week the new software finally arrived, but it doesn’t work!!
So again waited a week for the second factory software... which eventually worked...

So my car stayed 2 weeks dead at the dealer because of a bad Nox sensor!!😱 crazy stupid!

I almost traded it in for a BMW X5... (rented this car for a week) but didn’t offer the same comfort and touch and feel quality of the Benz for my taste.... Only the gearbox was so much better 😇
 

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I also had the nox sensor issue. Replaced both upstream and downstream sensor. The car was fine for 5 months, then the upstream nox sensor failed again. Its no need for new software after replacing the nox sensor, but the learned values / adaptations for scr / nox must be resett. After the secound nox fault at my car, i reprogramed my ecu to NO adblue / nox. So my car runs without adblue, and nox sensors is inactive. No other tuning, like more power and such.. ONLY adblue / nox off. Its wonderful to get rid of it:)[/QUOTE]
 

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Good tip! Thnx. Next time I am going to reprogram my ecu also and delete ad bleu and nox also!

I’m tired of this expensive environment shit going broken every time.

No my thermostat is bad, engine temp stays on 70 degrees, fuel consumption is higher now and I read somewhere that it won’t regen the DPF because it needs to be at least 90 degrees.
 

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Good tip! Thnx. Next time I am going to reprogram my ecu also and delete ad bleu and nox also!

I’m tired of this expensive environment shit going broken every time.

No my thermostat is bad, engine temp stays on 70 degrees, fuel consumption is higher now and I read somewhere that it won’t regen the DPF because it needs to be at least 90 degrees.
Ok. Thermostat shoud be 86 degrees. Dpf regen do NOT need 90, it need only 60. I have a star / xentry scanner, so i know that😜 But anyway, good idea to replace the thermostat👍
 
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