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1980 380 SE (Euro)
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756 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
whenever i go over a lane divider bump or something, i get an odd clanking sound from the front left wheel well... i think something is loose, but i have no idea what.

my shocks had just been recently replaced, i checked that from the engine bay, and it seems tight. i looked around the well w/o raising it, but i can't see anything... anyone have a clue?
 

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1965 220S, 1999 Volvo V70 (wagon), 2006 Ford Crown Vic Police Interceptor, 72 350SL 4 Speed
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1,830 Posts
It's your 'subframe' bolted to the chassis with the rod to the lower control arm. There is a ball joint bearing in the L bracket that goes bad and clanks. It's not that hard to do abd there are two large bushings to replace on each side.

You might want to overhaul your front suspension, if you can do the work yourself. Spring compressors are available for rent and you will need various bushings and ball joints. The lower ball joint needs a special tool to remove it and install it so take the lower control arm to a shop.

The sway bar bushings also need to be replaced, on the chassis between the firewalls and on the upper control arm.

I've done it, you can too.
 

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1980 380 SE (Euro)
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756 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
O_O

sounds complicated... i'll have to wait for summer.

i brought along my mechanically experienced friend along for a ride, and he said either it was the mountings loose for the shocks or the springs... either way, it needs an overhaul eh?
 

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Premium Member
1987 560SEC, 1987 UNIMOG U1700L
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326 Posts
wbain said:
It's your 'subframe' bolted to the chassis with the rod to the lower control arm. There is a ball joint bearing in the L bracket that goes bad and clanks. It's not that hard to do bad there are two large bushings to replace on each side.

You might want to overhaul your front suspension, if you can do the work yourself. Spring compressors are available for rent and you will need various bushings and ball joints. The lower ball joint needs a special tool to remove it and install it so take the lower control arm to a shop.

The sway bar bushings also need to be replaced, on the chassis between the firewalls and on the upper control arm.

I've done it, you can too.
same as what I would recommend check all your bushes and ball joints. I would also say to do ALL of them also. I learnt this the hard way with my old car (non-merc) "when you touch a specific system to replace something, replace them all" i did all the hoses on the front of my car, didn't do the 2 heater hoses at the back of the engine, guess what happened? the heather hose burst so i had to change it anyway. Thing is while you are in there is easier to get to them all. Odds are even if the others look ok, not long after changing the bad ones, the ones that look ok will go bad and will have to pull it all apart again!!!!!
 

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Depends on the day!
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13,337 Posts
No, you need to order most everything one @ a time.

IMHO, very few front end bits can be bought aftermarket. Anything rubber should be Genuine @ the least.

Jonathan
 

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1985 500SEL
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17 Posts
Could be your guide rod mount on that side. I had a similar issue with mine that turned out to be the guide rod mounts. Not too difficult to replace but you'll need an alignment afterwards. You can see if there's any rubber left at the mount. There's a rod behind the lower ball joint goes into the mount at the subframe connector near the back of the wheel well.
 

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1980 380 SE (Euro)
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756 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
hm, i'm getting it checked up on/fixed on friday. i'll update then.

also, it's been getting worse/louder, i don't see any part that seems loose... it's odd.
 

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