[delikanli]

In my recent quest to get warranty service after 82,000 miles (which failed). Some repairs were identified by the stealer. I am going to try to DIY as much as I can, and I was wondering if some of these procedures will be too much to attempt as a novice mechanic. I am also curious as to which items are the most urgent or which ones can be bunched up together. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated. Also, since the dealer tends to want to replace almost everything, I am guessing some of these items may not be so urgent. But, I do not know for sure.

1: Internally broken left rear catalyst (Ordered Magnaflow 53005. trying to figure out which exhaust shop to head to in the North Jersey area for the welding job)

2: Leak from both valve covers. No codes yet. I looked at the DIY, and I can only hope that I can put stuff back together afterwards with no leaks. Or should I not mess with this?

3: Collapsed rear transmission mount. I have not found any info on this yet. Is it hard to change? I guess this causes more engine vibration. Part number is listed as 2102400618 , $82

4: Missing shifter linkeage bushing. Looks like I can give this a shot.

5: Stuck rear seatbelt assembly. Part # 2048603285. Should I not mess with this since it is a safety/seatbelt/srs related thing?

6: Loose front L/R lower ball joints. How big of a deal is this? I read the DIY, but I am not sure if I should attempt yet.

7: Front L/R CV joint boots (not cracked yet but about to crack per the dealer). This seems like a tough one.

8: Front L/R control arm bushings I am not sure about this either. Any thoughts?

9: Old spark plugs and fuel filter The car is 7 years old and at 82k. Should I have replaced the spark plugs already? I remember something about 100K or 5 years? I will DIY this one and the fuel filter too. Is there a change interval for the fuel filter?

10: Fuel injector flush and brake flush Do we have any info on Fuel Injector Flushing? And I am pretty sure I am past 2 years on the brake fluid.

Currently, I am not really driving the car much. I got some ramps and I will take a peek under it this weekend and maybe I will try to get a DIY project in. CV joint, brake fluid and fuel filter seem like priorities to me. Then again, I am just beginning to start doing this kind of DIY and it would be great to get some wisdom from members with more experience.

Thanks.

 

[fabbrisd1]

Your laundry list..

1: Internally broken left rear catalyst: Have a competant muffler shop verify this before you do the install. Could be cracks that can be repaired rather that back cat replacement. Same shop could do the replacement with your part no problem.


2: Leak from both valve covers: Unless you are lossing measurable oil, some minor "seepage" could pick up dirt which makes minor seepage which is no problem look more serious (stealer trick). Personally I pop up the engine cover and periodically clean around that area with a power wash. Then check in a couple of weeks to see if it's a oil leak, or just minor seepage. It's a dirty messy job to reseal, and I see very few engines with that mileage have a serious problem really.

3: Collapsed rear transmission mount: Wierd comment, there is one replaceable rubber mount, and it is normal to show smome minor surface cracking. Unless you have noticeable vibration up thru the shifter, especially when switching from F to R, maybe another stealer deal. However, if a rear tranny mount has gone bad, it is usually caused by failure in 1 or 2 of the engine mounts. Again, there would be vibration problems.

4: Missing shifter linkeage bushing: I think there are (2) bushings and a clip. I have not done this job.

5: Stuck rear seatbelt assembly: I have not done this in a wagon.

6: Loose front L/R lower ball joints: Don't attempt, get a confirmed diagnosis from a relaible indie.

7: Front L/R CV joint boots: Stealer talk.

8: Front L/R control arm bushings: Don't attempt, get a confirmed diagnosis from a relaible indie.


9: Old spark plugs and fuel filter : The fuel filter is a easy DIY, most recommend at 60K as preemptive maintenance. Most can go out past 110K in normal circumstance with brand good gas. When you do it make sure you get the correct OE filter and not a non-name knockoff. Spark plugs have another 20K+ to go, if you choose to do it now get the correct tool from ohlord on this forum, and correct OE replacement spark plugs, no need for any magic.

10: Fuel injector flush and brake flush: No, you don't have to do a injecotr flush, use a non-solvent injection cleaner like Techron once before a oil change, or regular use of Lucas (which is very affordable) which can be done regularly with no oil contamination. Brake fluid flush, check a stickie, I personally don't do this if there has been no contamination but I could be in the wrong.

I don't know if you were the original owner, but don't let the stealer put wiggy things in your head.

What you have not mentioned: DIY oil changes with correct OE flecce filter and correct oil spec. Air filter changes with every oil change are my advice as well, with correct Mann OE air filter. Tranny service fluid change is a very good thing, and in the sticky you will find more info for a very good detailed procedure that changes out ALL the old fluid.

Keep the faith !

 

[delikanli]

Thanks for taking the time to comment fabbrisd1. I really appreciate the help.

I took the car to an indy shop in Jersey in December, and all they did was to clear some codes and replace a few sensors and brake pads. The cat thing started to rattle afterwards. But, all the suspension stuff CV joint etc are news to me. But, I do want to be on top of things and I want to maintain the car properly. I have had it for 2.5 years, and if I knew what I know now, I would have done things differently. I have no service records prior to when I got it. And we have been schooled on this thing more than once. Thus the faith and the DIY approach. I got fresh oil in there, and a new air filter, and new coolant.