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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hi there everyone, hope someone can help me here its a BIG one(i think!)
bit of background first.
had my 2002 e320 cdi for a while now,it has always ran fine but i knew it was in limp mode from the start, i was quite happy to drive it like this as i don't thrash around anymore, however a friend borrowed it and said its guzzling fuel! i was used to an old ford escort and the trip meter on my merc was showing 28-32 mpg average,i didn't think this was bad for the size of car and engine,so i lived with it,anyways while he had it he took it to a diagnostics indie and it came back it was slightly down on pressure on the rearmost cylinder,upon looking he found there was a slight leak from the injector, he said he'd ordered the seals and i could have them when they arrived, i'm a pretty competant mechanic so got inquisitive, found a vid on youtube of a guy changing an injector and in 5 mins his was out and back in,ahh no problem i thought i could do that!
so,with spanner in hand i proceded to undo the clamp retaining bolt,disconnected this that and the other and made a tool to pull the inj.
however it was stuck so solid that i didnt want to force anything and break it so decided to call it a day and put it back together, this is when i encountered my first problem, the clamp thread hole had filled with black death crud half way and trying to put the bolt back in it compressed and wouldnt budge until i snapped the bolt off!
threw me toys out the pram then!
so i thought has it snapped or just stripped the thread?i know i'll take another out for comparison,MISTAKE N0 2!.
yes the first bolt had snapped upon comparison but the second bolt wouldn't bite either!
because the inj were stuck so hard i decided i might get away with driving gently the two mile to pick up a heli coil set,MISTAKE N0 3!
100 yards and smoke,thumping from the engine bay!i knew damn well what had happened but managed to get it home.
no1 inj had been pushed 4 " upwards,snapped to plastic return diesel plug on top,sprayed diesel all over the engine but still ran!lol.
anyway,by now you're probably thinkin what a twat i must be,trust me i was too!
ok,so, borrowed a car,got heli coils,installed them fine,highly recommended and very solid repair,but still leaking inj 1,so now it had been out it came out no prob, and i saw the copper seal had blown.
called my mate( this is 3 days later now) no answer no seals, so bodged a repair with silicon sealant around the shaft of the injector and the car fired up and had come out of limp mode!fantastic i thought,except the silicon had started to be blown out so it started leaking again.
so for now i popped it out,smeared it in sealer left it overnight to set and hoped it would be sealed till my mate finally gets the proper seals to me.
heres where the problem starts and i need your help!
got in this morning,car fired up ran for 20 secs and cut out, it was out of fuel, rang another mate,he said he had a set of inj i could have and nip me for a gallon of fuel,he did so and left.
put fuel in managed to start it again, limp mode and now stuck in 2nd gear.
popped out the inj again,replaced with a known good one,second hand seal that had been with the injectors and looked better than mine,went in, no leaks this time without silicon etc,so thats all good,
still in limp mode,so disconnected the battery to clear the codes, reconnected,started up, now i've got bas/esp/abs light limp mode stuck in 2nd gear!
tried everything i could all day,managed to get the abs/esp/bas light to go out and stay off until i disconnect the battery,then its back until ive started the car four or five times then it clears again,but it still wont rev past 3000 rpm and stuck in second gear?
has anyone any ideas what i could try next, got 8 kids so dealer and star are out of the question at the mo.
please help?
Dan.
 

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2017 Ram EcoDiesel, 2014 GLK 350, 2013 BMW R1200GS KC
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From what I am reading your transmission is in electronic limp mode and you probably need a new electrical adapter for the transmission and clean your wiring harness and TCM. After that you have to get the codes cleared by somebody with a HHT, Star software, or similar device that can read and clear MB proprietary codes. It's all in the stickies, do a search!

Your transmission problems and engine problems are not related!

What you did to seal your injectors is beyond "shade tree mechanics", you should leave that to somebody who knows what he's doing. Looks like you either have to spend some money at a shop or park it, sorry for being so blunt!
 

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1922 Ford T no OBD, no ECU, no SCN
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I tough I understand all English dialects, but you got me lost couple of times ;)
What dialect it is?
So one thing at the time:
-weak injector seals on cdi engine are well covered problem, I hope you are over this one? (unbelievable how much troubles a 70 cents washer can get you into)
- to get traction light off after battery disconnection you need to synchronize the steering (covered in stickies)
-the computer on those cars never allow engine to rev high without load, so your 3000 rpm might be normal. Not sure as this engine/combo never made it to US and couple of members driving it in different parts of the Word hopefully will chip-in
-transmission hard limp does require Star Diagnosis to reset, but I missed how did you get this limp?
This way, or the other visit to SD is unavoidable.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the info, i know the sealant was a dodgy 'shade tree mechanic' thing,lol, but it was an overnight bodge to be able to pick up the proper seals the following morning, i do know what im doing and the engine is running smooth as silk again now, it probably is a coincidence that the gearbox started playing up at the same time, but i honestly think the car went fully into hard limp mode and locked the low gear in when the injector popped out and it lost all compression at cylinder 1, now the engine is repaired i think its just a case of clearing the codes as the gearbox has been fine and smooth for 18 months of ownership.
best wishes
Dan.
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
All done now, had the codes read and it came up with about 40 codes for the engine,cleared them and just one code appeared after that,for the maf sensor,about 12 codes for the transmission,cleared them and all is well!
i finally got around to fitting the new maf sensor today and the car drives 100% with full power again, i can't believe how bloody quick it is!
i'm in love with her again!
I now see why they are known as the ultimate driving machine:D
 
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