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1994 E420, 1985 380SL
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159 Posts
Discussion Starter #141
Also, I took my car out on the road for the first time in 6 months this morning. Running and driving beautifully but it needs to be cleaned up. Going to get a full detail done on it next week and I'll be good to go.

After driving a 4 cylinder Honda and then back to this car, one word: torque.
 

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1995 E420; 1995 E320 Estate, 1995 C220 (GF)
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323 Posts
That's why you just enjoy the AGM - no venting needed. Mine in the 420 trunk is in it's seventh year...

OOPS - vent elbow? So, no AGM? Well, vent hoses worked on the miata...
 

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1994 E420, 1985 380SL
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159 Posts
Discussion Starter #143
It's definitely an AGM battery, and it definitely still has vents. it came with a vent elbow already stuck into the side of it.
 

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w140 300SEL 1992, w124 500E 1991, w124 300td Turbo 1992, r129 500SL 1994
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261 Posts
J L

If the car is running, the CPS is good. As for the tach, it's feed is from the EZL. There is absolutely no harm in taking a look see at the back of the cluster. If needed, we have a link for doing the job in our DIY sticky.

Good luck

Jayare
Many thanks Jayare, I spent 1/2 an hour this afternoon removing the cluster and unplugging the rpm gauge from behind the cluster, just to make sure there is no sticky needle causing this issue. Obviously, the needle can move, just gently blowing towards the dial makes it taking off a little. I did not start the engine so far, but now, at the next start, if the needle remains asleep, the trouble will surely sit in between the engine and the cluster!

Jean-Louis
 

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99 BMW R1100RT, 05 MB C230, 07 Silverado CC Z71, 10 Chevy Tahoe LT
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5,787 Posts
Brought home my next project: 92 400E. :D

True miles unknown since the odometer is inop, of course. Bought it from a really small dealer in a small town close to me. He sold it a couple of years ago to a guy who never made a single payment and he repoed it after three months and it’s been sitting on his lot ever since, just occasionally started and driven.

While sitting, somebody left the front windows open, and the trucks from the next door concrete plant filled the interior with nice fine coating of dust. :rolleyes: Cleaned up pretty nicely. Pics are before cleaning.

Motor was first running a bit rough and had a stumble off idle, but now that I’ve deiven it some on the highway, it’s gone. Idles pretty smoothly, too, just an occasional small hiccup. Tranny shifts great and goes into reverse pretty much immediately with no banging. Drives nice and smooth on the highway and no clunks or other noises in bumps.

Blower motor resistor is bad and the guy had the HVAC controls out as well as the wiper motor etc. but wasn’t able/willing to finish it up. Hooked up the controls and AC compressor comes on and line is cold, so there’s hope to have a cold air coming in from somewhere once I get the resistor installed. The insides of the center stack is a bit of a mess, so I have a bunch of things to work on in there.

Also had an aftermarket stereo at some point, so need to figure all that out, too.

Other than some hail dents the outside is pretty respectable and all lights etc. work. Needs tires like yesterday.

So yeah, far from perfect, but what can you expect for 500 bucks? :D
 

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99 BMW R1100RT, 05 MB C230, 07 Silverado CC Z71, 10 Chevy Tahoe LT
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5,787 Posts
Changed blower motor regulator and got that working great again. Took the car for a few mile test run and towards the end noticed the temp going higher than normal.

Got home, opened the hood and steam and coolant all over the driver’s side... :eek: Never a dull moment in the old MB world, I guess... :rolleyes:
 

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94 E420
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12 Posts
Acquired 94 E420 a few months ago (196 K, now at 200 K).
Previous vehicle was 300E.

M119 V8 is far more responsive than M103.
... And I exercise greater vigilance/caution observing the posted speed limit
given that the car cruises quite easily and comfortably (again- that M119 V8).
[While a passenger, the car remained at ** mph with little effort.]

Would be nice if parts were more common/readily available...

BenzWorld has been helpful thus far - reading other members' posts.
Hope to contribute helpful instructions and/or rare information in the future.

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In Summary: If you have the opportunity to purchase one - consider it
relative to the car's service history and present running condition
as well as
your present level of knowledge (MB, autos in general), present and
projected budget, apparent availability of parts as well as reliable and trustworthy
service/repair technicians for work you otherwise could not complete yourself.
 

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1993 W124 and S124 4MATIC
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46 Posts
There are various kinds of mounting methods of the heater register and the heat sink

Heater register broke down, so I bought a new heater register.
The heater register that arrived was not screwed to the heat sink and it was strongly bonded.
The exchange in the state where the register was attached to the heat sink was difficult.
Please be careful when purchasing a heater register.

If you do not cut the heat sink a bit, it will be difficult to install
 

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92 400e, 97 SL500, 2003 Suburban, 88 300TE , 2001 E320 Wagon, 2005 E500 Wagon
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86 Posts
Tune up on the 97 SL500 (cylinder 3 mis-fire, coil plugs, air filters) and parts waiting for 400e power steering leak (hoping for hose below reservoir, not pump itself).
 

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w140 300SEL 1992, w124 500E 1991, w124 300td Turbo 1992, r129 500SL 1994
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261 Posts
Changed blower motor regulator and got that working great again. Took the car for a few mile test run and towards the end noticed the temp going higher than normal.

Got home, opened the hood and steam and coolant all over the driver’s side... :eek: Never a dull moment in the old MB world, I guess... :rolleyes:
Hi TexFinn,

got an eye under the hood of my r129 this afternoon, just to make sure the todo list is as long as Bible, and... guess what, same as what you mention. Well, not broken yet, but 2 or 3 clear cracks just waiting to expand on the upper radiator pipe (the coolant hose had been removed for restoration purposes).

I wonder what kind or repair can be started at that point?

Jean-Louis
 

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1987 300D Turbo
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60 Posts
Looking at a 400E

Sorry I don't currently have any better pics, might be going to look at this 400E soon. The owner is a body shop and they said it's pretty clean and runs good, but have a bad leak from the transmission input shaft seal. Any input on how hard such a seal might be to change (I know the trans has to be dropped) and what else I should watch out for? Obviously I'd only be interested if it's cheap enough to be a "project car."
 

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Registered
1987 300D Turbo
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60 Posts
Acquired 94 E420 a few months ago (196 K, now at 200 K).
Previous vehicle was 300E.

M119 V8 is far more responsive than M103.
... And I exercise greater vigilance/caution observing the posted speed limit
given that the car cruises quite easily and comfortably (again- that M119 V8).
[While a passenger, the car remained at ** mph with little effort.]

Would be nice if parts were more common/readily available...

BenzWorld has been helpful thus far - reading other members' posts.
Hope to contribute helpful instructions and/or rare information in the future.

---
In Summary: If you have the opportunity to purchase one - consider it
relative to the car's service history and present running condition
as well as
your present level of knowledge (MB, autos in general), present and
projected budget, apparent availability of parts as well as reliable and trustworthy
service/repair technicians for work you otherwise could not complete yourself.
Cool purchase! Have you had any issues with the wiring harness or the throttle body?
 

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Buncha W124's
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2,041 Posts
Sorry I don't currently have any better pics, might be going to look at this 400E soon. The owner is a body shop and they said it's pretty clean and runs good, but have a bad leak from the transmission input shaft seal. Any input on how hard such a seal might be to change (I know the trans has to be dropped) and what else I should watch out for? Obviously I'd only be interested if it's cheap enough to be a "project car."
Drop the trans and do a COMPLETE external re-seal, after a test-drive to confirm the trans is otherwise in good shape and shifting normally.

The leak is pretty likely to be from the front pump O-ring, which requires pulling the front pump and taking it apart to change the O-ring. Some special tools must be purchased or fabricated to do this. Parts are cheap, but it's quite a bit of labor to R&R the trans. The external reseal is pretty easy except for the front pump O-ring. Search various MB forums, there are a couple of threads out there with photos and more info on this job.

BTW - what year is the 400E, and does it have ASR?

:thumbsup:
 

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1987 300D Turbo
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60 Posts
Drop the trans and do a COMPLETE external re-seal, after a test-drive to confirm the trans is otherwise in good shape and shifting normally.

The leak is pretty likely to be from the front pump O-ring, which requires pulling the front pump and taking it apart to change the O-ring. Some special tools must be purchased or fabricated to do this. Parts are cheap, but it's quite a bit of labor to R&R the trans. The external reseal is pretty easy except for the front pump O-ring. Search various MB forums, there are a couple of threads out there with photos and more info on this job.

BTW - what year is the 400E, and does it have ASR?

:thumbsup:
Thanks for the input gsxr! As of right now I don't have a lot of info, but I did get the owner on the phone a little while ago. He's going to send me more pics and info. I believe it's a '92 or '93 but I don't know whether it has ASR or any work on the wiring harness yet (the owner doesn't know much about it). It has "under 150k miles" so not crazy high, couple of minor dents, but almost no rust (supposably). Black on black and the guy that had it before the current owner ended up in jail....so not expecting great things on any recent maintenance, but if the price it right I might go for it.

The current owner at least is a bit of a car guy and he says it's the front pump seal as you suspected gsxr. He was driving and noticed a leak and hasn't driven it since, another he says it will drive. It just leaks and he didn't want to make the transmission worse, so at least I know it's not likely the whole thing.

Does anyone know if there is a decent OEM quality transmission seal kit I can get?

I get that ASR is prone to issues and some on here choose to delete it or otherwise turn it off, but if this car has ASR is that a huge negative? This would just be to play around with and maybe make into a summer daily or weekend car.
 

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Buncha W124's
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A photo of the engine compartment, or instrument cluster, will confirm if it has ASR. Or get the VIN, which will also tell you model year. 1993 is more desirable IMO if only for the automatic belt tensioner (there's also some power gain possible with '93, but not with '92, due to the updates on 93+ models).

You can buy a complete trans seal kit but it will include all the internal stuff you don't need.... it's cheaper to buy the dozen or so seals individually, and you want OE only for these parts due to the huge labor hours involved. OE seals are relatively cheap from discount dealers (Naperville, Husker, etc) but could add up to ~$100 or so including everything.

A lot of people dislike ASR because when it acts up, it requires effort to diagnose and repair. If you live in a dry climate and can handle oversteer when the rear end breaks loose, you can live without ASR. If you live anywhere that gets ice and snow (or, lots of rain)... ASR is a godsend and works incredibly well. I won't buy a W124 without ASR and heated seats... got spoiled with both over the past ~12 years.

If you get a car with ASR, it is possible to disable it, but you must fix the system enough to make the throttle-by-wire ETA function properly or it will be stuck in limp mode. People like non-ASR because it can be broken and still drive OK. When ASR goes into limp mode, it's driveable, but just enough to get you home or to the mechanic - not fun. IMO, ASR is worth the potential extra cost / risk. If the car has a late-datecode ETA it's less likely to have problems. RFC Electronics will rebuild the ETA if needed for $300. Otherwise all the usual stuff has the same issues between ASR or non-ASR... the wiring harnesses, NSS switch on the trans, etc.
 

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1987 300D Turbo
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60 Posts
A photo of the engine compartment, or instrument cluster, will confirm if it has ASR. Or get the VIN, which will also tell you model year. 1993 is more desirable IMO if only for the automatic belt tensioner (there's also some power gain possible with '93, but not with '92, due to the updates on 93+ models).

You can buy a complete trans seal kit but it will include all the internal stuff you don't need.... it's cheaper to buy the dozen or so seals individually, and you want OE only for these parts due to the huge labor hours involved. OE seals are relatively cheap from discount dealers (Naperville, Husker, etc) but could add up to ~$100 or so including everything.

A lot of people dislike ASR because when it acts up, it requires effort to diagnose and repair. If you live in a dry climate and can handle oversteer when the rear end breaks loose, you can live without ASR. If you live anywhere that gets ice and snow (or, lots of rain)... ASR is a godsend and works incredibly well. I won't buy a W124 without ASR and heated seats... got spoiled with both over the past ~12 years.

If you get a car with ASR, it is possible to disable it, but you must fix the system enough to make the throttle-by-wire ETA function properly or it will be stuck in limp mode. People like non-ASR because it can be broken and still drive OK. When ASR goes into limp mode, it's driveable, but just enough to get you home or to the mechanic - not fun. IMO, ASR is worth the potential extra cost / risk. If the car has a late-datecode ETA it's less likely to have problems. RFC Electronics will rebuild the ETA if needed for $300. Otherwise all the usual stuff has the same issues between ASR or non-ASR... the wiring harnesses, NSS switch on the trans, etc.
Thanks for the good info. I'm still new to MB, I've had and still have a number of older BMW's but never a MB (yet). I thought the '92 M119's had the wide open throttle DME and were considered slightly faster? Does anyone have a good reference on the differences between the '92 and '93+ M119 engines?

I also just found out the car has title issues, so that may end up killing it...but I already like the car so we shall see...If anyone has any experience dealing with getting a clean title after a mechanic's lien is placed on a vehicle, feel free to weigh in. Thanks!
 

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Buncha W124's
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I thought the '92 M119's had the wide open throttle DME and were considered slightly faster? Does anyone have a good reference on the differences between the '92 and '93+ M119 engines?
1992 LH modules (fuel computer) allowed full-throttle (WOT), open-loop enrichment which made a bit more power. For the 4.2L M119, it's complicated... 1992 engines were rated 268hp but there is conflicting documentation, my theory is it actually made more like 282hp but MB may have purposely de-rated it for some reason. 93-up 4.2L did not have WOT enrichment and were rated 275hp, which seems accurate. Using a 1992 LH module on a 93-up 4.2L engine results in +15hp at the crank (+12hp at the wheels) per dyno testing.

1993 updates are in the PDF doc linked below; the 4.2L received a bump in compression ratio along with the reduced-weight rotating components:
http://124performance.com/docs/mb/M119/M119_1993_updates.pdf


I also just found out the car has title issues, so that may end up killing it...but I already like the car so we shall see...If anyone has any experience dealing with getting a clean title after a mechanic's lien is placed on a vehicle, feel free to weigh in. Thanks!
As long as you can get the title in your name, lien-free, that's all you care about. A branded title only affects resale and this is never going to be a collectible, so that would be pretty far down the list of concerns. Definitely need the seller to get his act together.
 

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1987 300D Turbo
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Good info, that makes sense, so hopefully it's a 1993 and I can source a '92 DME for a good price ;)

Anyway, yeah the seller needs to get serious, but he did promptly send me a few more pics of the car, specifically asked for pics of any rust that was visible (obviously need to check everything including the underside once I see it). So as you can see rust doesn't look horrible or too good either, can't expect the world in the midwest I guess. At least the mileage is not crazy high. Unfortunately it doesn't have the black interior, but from what I can see it doesn't look completely trashed either. I don't imagine anyone can tell whether it has ASR from that partial cluster pic?
 

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