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2005 CLK500
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4 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I built a set of headlights and installed canbus error preventing "boxes" but I'm still getting the error for the left low beam and one fog light. Has anyone found a resistance level that works? Or can someone point me in the direction of a canbus LED that has been tested and works? I've tried a few different combinations and keep getting the same result. I'm happy with the look of the lights, but it would be nice if they actually turn on.
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2005 CLK320
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570 Posts
Find sombody with sds and vediamo and have it programmed, or measure the current on the old lights then on the new lights without resistor post results here I can calculate the correct resistor for you.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk
 

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Coupe/Convertible Forums Moderator
CURRENT: 2011 SL550 FORMER: C300, ML350, CLK550 Cabriolet, C240, ML320, 300TD
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When the SAM is coded for halogen bulbs, the headlight needs to pull 55w. When coded for Xenon, it needs to pull 35w. So, do the math based on the current draw of your LEDs to see what size resistor you need to wire in parallel with your bulbs. There is no setting int he SAM for Xenon fog lights, so they will always need to draw 55w. Note that the resistors you use will need to be able to handle the amperage (around 5 amps) and dissipate the heat appropriately, so this generally means they will have a heat sink that needs to be attached to a large metal surface. The internal bumper member is usually a good place.
 

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2005 CLK500
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4 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Thanks to both of you for the information, I stupidly tossed the old bulbs so I can't check the original resistance (which I assume would fluctuate with heat?), but I can easily set up my LEDs on the battery and do an amp draw test to get a proper base point, and see what I'm missing in terms of wattage. I'm going to pickup some standard bulbs to temporarily have headlights again. Then I will order proper resistors, not the garbage tiny plastic ones I have. The odd thing is the high beams don't seem to need a resistor at all, is that normal? They run fine with just LED bulbs, no flicker or fault code at all.
 

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Registered
2005 CLK320
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570 Posts
Thanks to both of you for the information, I stupidly tossed the old bulbs so I can't check the original resistance (which I assume would fluctuate with heat?), but I can easily set up my LEDs on the battery and do an amp draw test to get a proper base point, and see what I'm missing in terms of wattage. I'm going to pickup some standard bulbs to temporarily have headlights again. Then I will order proper resistors, not the garbage tiny plastic ones I have. The odd thing is the high beams don't seem to need a resistor at all, is that normal? They run fine with just LED bulbs, no flicker or fault code at all.
The Sam sends a short pulse to the light bulbs and determines the resistance therfore you need to match the cold resistance. Also you have to burn off quite some power I would guess around 20W make sure you get resistors strong enough. I reprogrammed my glk ant think this is a more elegant solution.
SDS is around $300 if you have a laptop.

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Registered
2005 CLK500
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4 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Completely agree about the reprogramming, having bulky hot resistors strapped to the car negates half the benefits of LED bulbs (less heat / less power) obviously the light output is my main goal. I'll check into the reprogramming. Again thank you for all the help.
 
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