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01 ML55, 96 S320
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You put the unit under the center console box (nice tight fit).. Wire the "always hot 12v" to the cig lighter.. Wire the "open/close relays to the interior door lock switch.. Your done... NOTE: THIS DOES NOT ACTIVATE THE ALARM.. Just locks and unlocks the doors... I'm not worried about someone trying to steal my 20 year old ML...
thanks!
 

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1989 300CE & 1971 280SE; 73.5 911T
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Hi folks, This is the first time I posting to this group and apologize if this has been addressed before. I am beginning to experience the common ignition key issue, discussed in this group - ML Key hesitation with going in and out of the tumbler. I want to know has anyone tried the following and what is the impact:

With an understanding, I just have one key and FOB, looking for something real simple:

1. Leave the original key permanently in the ignition (along with FOB - assuming the coded electronics is in the FOB)
2. Get a second FOB (I will need to buy one) to lock/unlock the doors

Would the car allow locking the doors while the key is still in the ignition?

What would be the impact of leaving the key in the ignition, if car can be locked?

I am looking for my options before trying to rebuild the tumbler OR do we have any other options such as wiring a push start capability (I read that requires another key programmed for the same car).
2615476


Sticky ignition cylinder/tumbler:
I ordered the new ignition cylinder from M-B dealership for $115. (+tax).
Also, ordered the cylinder removal tools from MercedesSource.com.
The ones that Pelican Parts & on offer on E-bay are not recommended by some knowledgeable sources (I have no first hand experience with alternate sources, but didn't want to mess around with potentially faulty parts).
This applicator syringe with SYNTHETIC GREASE (use nothing but this) fit nicely into the ignition key slot.
I inserted it as far as it would go and pushed the injector about 1/8th inch inward- thus pushing the synthetic grease towards the inside rear of the tumbler.
I heated the switch with a heat gun on low for about 10 seconds so the grease could penetrate throughout the tumbler movements.

Then I tested the lock cylinder movement with the new M-B key (about $25.US).
This was a couple months ago.
The movement of the ignition key in the cylinder is now buttery-smooth.
I haven't felt the need to install my new cylinder--- all the ignition switch needed was a synthetic grease lube.

I have been warned that the key will attract lint and clog-up the cylinder.
I wipe the key briefly on clean cloth before inserting- and there are no problems.

I recommend this because it is a simple, cheap solution to the ignition tumbler sticking issue.

First step: get a new Mercedes-Benz made key.
Second step: order some synthetic grease & a syringe.
Use only synthetic grease- no substitutes.
 

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w163 02 ML500 W210 97 E50Amg w202 99 C230K w124 - need more space, time to build again
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2,216 Posts
Kent's website is a great wealth of info and advice.

First saw is his tumbler/cylinder lube advice years ago and took snippets of his advice for preventative maintenance.
Used one of these curved syringes (picked a few up for free at my doctors office, or get them at any pharmacy I would imagine) and a small amount of dielectric (synthetic) grease syphoned from our permatex tube of lube. :)

curved syringe.JPG
 

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My experience with three MB’s is that you cannot lock the car with the key in the ignition from outside. In the car, yes.



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just last night I started up my slk230 kompressor to warm it up in 30 degree weather while cleaning off the snow - I bought it used with only one key/fob, I then opend up the passenger door to put some things on the passenger seat, when i shut the door all of the locks locked !!! with the key in the ignition and the car running ! ~ I've done this before, no problem , now I dont trust shutting the door while leaving the key in the ignition with the car running.
 

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2003 C320 coupe, 2000 ML320
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Back-up,.. Back-up,..Back-up.. Whether, we're talking guns, hard drives, or keys.. If it's important to me..I've got at least one back-up and most of the time, it's three for me.. (I'm not comfortable unless I've got a back-up to cover my first back-up).. It doesn't matter how you do it, OEM or aftermarket.. You need to have away into the car, if you don't have access to your #1 key.. On my non MB vehicles.. I buy two dollar, non-chipped keys (they won't start the car, but will open the doors) and use the old "hide a key" method.. Ya, you may find my spare key, but you ain't going nowhere..
 

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01 ML55, 96 S320
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You put the unit under the center console box (nice tight fit).. Wire the "always hot 12v" to the cig lighter.. Wire the "open/close relays to the interior door lock switch.. Your done... NOTE: THIS DOES NOT ACTIVATE THE ALARM.. Just locks and unlocks the doors... I'm not worried about someone trying to steal my 20 year old ML...
little help if you can! wired the open/close wires from the kit to the single, purple wire to my 01s lock switch. i can get the car to unlock but not lock. everything is getting voltage.

did i do something wrong? is it because i have both lock and unlock going to a single wire?

edit: looks like im going to need a resistor for my lock button as mentioned in this post.

thanks all for the help. for anyone doing this i will note that my cig lighter is only hot key on. i thought i found a hot 12 but it went away after a couple mins. ill find another source and finish this later one once i get a resistor.
 

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2003 C320 coupe, 2000 ML320
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677 Posts
They are TWO relay take-offs on the the remote.. One for lock.. One for unlock.. I think I threw out the wire diagram.. It won't be until Wednesday before I get into the ML and tell you exactly how to wire it.. In the mean time.. Orange, White, Yellow is one relay... Orange/Black, White/Back, Yellow/Black is the other relay.. These relays are Normally Open.. Normally Closed.. The White wire is the common on the relay.. Orange and yellow are either open or closed.. YOU WILL NOT USE THE NORMALLY CLOSED.. Meter (ohms) the (W) wire to the (O) and then (W) to (Y).. If (W) to (O) reads zero ohms, then you will not use the Orange wires.. If (W) to (Y) reads zero ohms, you will not use the Yellow wires.. You will use one pair White and (?) to lock.. and White/Black to (?/Black) to unlock. A total of four wires from the RELAYS will be used.

PLEASE POST IF YOU GET IT TO WORK..SO I WON'T HAVE TO PULL MY BOX OUT
 

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2003 C320 coupe, 2000 ML320
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I found this incomplete diagram.. I did this from memory, so take with a grain of salt..
2616028
Ps.. I think it's marked on the back of the unit case.. NO/C/NC... you will use the two pairs of NO and C
 

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2003 C320 coupe, 2000 ML320
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677 Posts
Well good luck , Ed... Post on Wed. if you are still having trouble.. And still post back when you get it all done and working..
 

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Discussion Starter #32
View attachment 2615476

Sticky ignition cylinder/tumbler:
I ordered the new ignition cylinder from M-B dealership for $115. (+tax).
Also, ordered the cylinder removal tools from MercedesSource.com.
The ones that Pelican Parts & on offer on E-bay are not recommended by some knowledgeable sources (I have no first hand experience with alternate sources, but didn't want to mess around with potentially faulty parts).
This applicator syringe with SYNTHETIC GREASE (use nothing but this) fit nicely into the ignition key slot.
I inserted it as far as it would go and pushed the injector about 1/8th inch inward- thus pushing the synthetic grease towards the inside rear of the tumbler.
I heated the switch with a heat gun on low for about 10 seconds so the grease could penetrate throughout the tumbler movements.

Then I tested the lock cylinder movement with the new M-B key (about $25.US).
This was a couple months ago.
The movement of the ignition key in the cylinder is now buttery-smooth.
I haven't felt the need to install my new cylinder--- all the ignition switch needed was a synthetic grease lube.

I have been warned that the key will attract lint and clog-up the cylinder.
I wipe the key briefly on clean cloth before inserting- and there are no problems.

I recommend this because it is a simple, cheap solution to the ignition tumbler sticking issue.

First step: get a new Mercedes-Benz made key.
Second step: order some synthetic grease & a syringe.
Use only synthetic grease- no substitutes.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Thank you for sharing the information about the lubricant. I ordered ignition tumbler and two valet keys from MB dealer. The keys arrived, however, one of them was not recognized by the car and dealer doesn't want to give me the set until everything works. So, I will wait for one more week. I hope by following everyone's advice in this group and other online resources, I can replace the tumbler. Funny thing is I asked MB for lock grease and they said they don't have it. I will post an update once I make any further progress (hopefully). Until then I have left me key in the car to avoid it from failing completely.
 

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w163 02 ML500 W210 97 E50Amg w202 99 C230K w124 - need more space, time to build again
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2,216 Posts
Thank you for sharing the information about the lubricant. I ordered ignition tumbler and two valet keys from MB dealer. The keys arrived, however, one of them was not recognized by the car and dealer doesn't want to give me the set until everything works. So, I will wait for one more week. I hope by following everyone's advice in this group and other online resources, I can replace the tumbler. Funny thing is I asked MB for lock grease and they said they don't have it. I will post an update once I make any further progress (hopefully). Until then I have left me key in the car to avoid it from failing completely.
Any dielectric synthetic grease will work. And you can pickup the curved syringe for free from your Drs or dental office.
 

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Hi folks, This is the first time I posting to this group and apologize if this has been addressed before. I am beginning to experience the common ignition key issue, discussed in this group - ML Key hesitation with going in and out of the tumbler. I want to know has anyone tried the following and what is the impact:

With an understanding, I just have one key and FOB, looking for something real simple:

1. Leave the original key permanently in the ignition (along with FOB - assuming the coded electronics is in the FOB)
2. Get a second FOB (I will need to buy one) to lock/unlock the doors

Would the car allow locking the doors while the key is still in the ignition?

What would be the impact of leaving the key in the ignition, if car can be locked?

I am looking for my options before trying to rebuild the tumbler OR do we have any other options such as wiring a push start capability (I read that requires another key programmed for the same car).
Without knowing model/options:
The key mechanism is connected to the transmission - a cable connects the shift mechanism to the steering shaft. Found this after replacing key mechanism.
Make sure battery is 12v or more at ALL times.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
Just wanted to give an update on a few things.

1. I finally got my keys and tumbler from the dealer. I had ordered a pair of valet keys, each with chip in its base (seems like "Mickey Mouse"). The new keys go in the tumbler without any issues (meaning my original key was bad). I haven't changed the tumbler. I followed the advice to lubricate the tumbler (haven't gotten syringe yet to push grease in). Things are getting much better. I didn't get courage to change the tumbler yet.

2. I experimented with leaving the valet key inside the tumbler and tried locking with FOB. The vehicle detects the key in ignition when you turn off the car and you'll hear warning beeps if you open the door with key still in ignition. So, FOB wouldn't lock the door. However, if after turning off the car you slide the key a little out and push it back in, the car no longer sounds alarm and FOB can lock the key from outside while valet key sits in ignition.

3. Once I find time, I am going to install the remote unlocking module, which was recommended by Bobby. This will cover me in case if FOB is lost (I have just one).

Thanks for all the help - I can now confidently driven my ML.
 
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