Mercedes-Benz Forum banner
1 - 20 of 21 Posts

·
Registered
'84 300D/ dakota benz trk. Sold... miss it. "88 260E '91 190E 2.6 '89 Volvo 240DL "85 300D
Joined
·
1,252 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Have any of you ever done the suspension component refurb on the front that affects the wheel straight ahead position? Forgive my ignorance I cant remember the name of the component. "upper control arm" ??? It connects to the sway bar on the front and to the front wheel. It has a bushing inside that wears out and when its gone you will notice that the front wheels will lean in at the top like the car is sagging. I have one side that is starting to do that and would like some tips on changing out this part. I believe the part is aluminum. My other 123s had this problem and I never took the time to repair so I have no knowledge of this task.
 

·
Registered
1984 Mercedes 300D Turbo Diesel
Joined
·
6 Posts
Hello *******... if the top of the wheel is leaning towards the inside of the car, I believe you have a negative camber and you'll need to replace a bushing in the "lower control arm". ( I've read it here in the forum somewhere) It's a $270.00 job per All Data program at my independent shop. The bushing is about $40.00 for the set. Hope this helps...
 

·
Registered
2000 W202 Mercedes-Benz C250 Turbodiesel
Joined
·
1,450 Posts
Hello *******... if the top of the wheel is leaning towards the inside of the car, I believe you have a negative camber and you'll need to replace a bushing in the "lower control arm". ( I've read it here in the forum somewhere) It's a $270.00 job per All Data program at my independent shop. The bushing is about $40.00 for the set. Hope this helps...
I don't completely agree. I also had an issue of the front wheels leaning inward, forming a / \ profile when viewed from the front. Replacing the upper control arms solved the issue.
 

·
Registered
'84 300D/ dakota benz trk. Sold... miss it. "88 260E '91 190E 2.6 '89 Volvo 240DL "85 300D
Joined
·
1,252 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I agree frans. My memory is not what it used to be, too much pepsi max... I have that same view as you drew. I thought that was the case. Has anyone here done the job themselves. Melchoix, I know where you are coming from as well. I have been there done that on other MBs. However, on this one the lowers are fine.
 

·
Registered
1984 300D
Joined
·
5,487 Posts
I had it happen but can't remember which way the Wheels tilted.

In My case it was the lower control Arm Bushing.

If it is the upper Control Arm Bushings you can sometimes see the rotted out bushing.

On the Lower ones you cannot see them.

In the pic below is 1/2 of the Lower Control Arm Bushing. The Rubber Part is supposed to be one solid piece of Rubber. But, you can see where I stuck the Tooth Picks the Rubber lost elasticity over time and use and the Rubber sheared in 2 pieces.
When that happens you loose the adjustment of the Bushing.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
1983 300 SD, 1991 420 SEL, 1979 300SD
Joined
·
536 Posts
i have the same thing going on with my W116; one of the upper control arm bushings is pushed out a bit and making the wheel tilt in a little. changing them out is fairly easy:
pop out the upper ball joint (i use a pickle fork if i'm replacing the whole upper control arm)
screw out the bolt in the on the middle part of the arm(sway bar link i guess its called?)
unscrew the large bolt holding in the back part into the fender.
then the whole thing comes out. replace the bushings on the sway bar link too
 

·
Registered
1984 300D
Joined
·
5,487 Posts
i have the same thing going on with my W116; one of the upper control arm bushings is pushed out a bit and making the wheel tilt in a little
Is the top of the Wheel tilting in towads the Engine or outwards away from the Car?

When I had My issue over the couse of 3 days My Tires wore extremely bad on one of the edges.
 

·
Registered
'84 300D/ dakota benz trk. Sold... miss it. "88 260E '91 190E 2.6 '89 Volvo 240DL "85 300D
Joined
·
1,252 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
the top of the wheels tilt toward the engine. I have had other 123s that done this same thing in the past but I never bothered to fix them. I saw a 123 going down the road the other day and it was obviously correct because it looked normal and much more symmetrical. On my other one that did this, I tried to adjust out the issue and couldnt even at max adjustment on the lower control arm eccentric bolt. when I looked at the top and saw the upper bushing, I figured out that had to be the problem. I just have never done this job and was hoping one of you had some tips on how tos, precautions, etc.
 

·
Registered
2000 W202 Mercedes-Benz C250 Turbodiesel
Joined
·
1,450 Posts
It's actually a straightforward job (probably depending on the amount of rusted fasteners you need to deal with). Don't know what left-hand drive engine bays look like, but you might need to remove the battery tray (and hence the battery) to gain proper access to the one upper-control arm bolt/nut combination.

You may want to support the lower-control arm with a jack after having removed the front wheels.

Sequence, if I remember correctly, is basically the following:

1. Raise the front-end of the car and remove the front wheels.
2. Support the lower control arms with a jack.
3. Remove battery and tray (if needed).
4. Remove upper control arm ball joint nut that connects it to the steering knuckle and loosen joint from the knuckle.
5. Remove upper control arm bolt that connects it to the stabiliser bar, together with the accompanying bushes and washers.
6. Remove the upper control arm bolt that fastens it to the body of the car.
7. Remove the control arm.

Fitment is reverse of removal.
 

·
Registered
1983 300 SD, 1991 420 SEL, 1979 300SD
Joined
·
536 Posts
Is the top of the Wheel tilting in towads the Engine or outwards away from the Car?

When I had My issue over the couse of 3 days My Tires wore extremely bad on one of the edges.
the top is leaning towards the engine; haven't had any tire wear yet but they're about due to be replaced anyway
 

·
Registered
'84 300D/ dakota benz trk. Sold... miss it. "88 260E '91 190E 2.6 '89 Volvo 240DL "85 300D
Joined
·
1,252 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
tks 300Dman for the links. I did not have those in my database yet. I appreciate it, they seem very informative. tks again.
 

·
Premium Member
W-1-2-3 Go!
Joined
·
16,161 Posts
My car had a bad alignment at one point, the top leaned towards the engine more than the bottom as described. I know the upper control arms are good so I had the camber adjusted by the shop.

Before:


After:

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Hello I have a 1993 300e but my passenger side rear tire is leaning ,the top of tire is leaning in toward the car.control arm ?? Just got the car.1st Benz I've ever owned.
 

·
Registered
1984 300D
Joined
·
5,487 Posts
From a post of mine on another forum.
In general inner Tire Wear Lower Control Arm Bushings; outer Tire wear Upper Control Arm bushings.
I don't know what other issues like Ball Joits and Tie Rods can cause.

The Upper and Lower Control Arms pivot on the elasticity of the Rubber. Unless there was some accident it could be all of the Rubber Bushings are on the way out.
That makes a tough decision; replace one or all.
 

·
Registered
.................... ~'84 300D~~~~~~~~ ~~'85 300TD~~~~~~~ ~~~W123(s) Galore~~~
Joined
·
794 Posts
Are you doing most of your own wrenching?

The back is likely Bushings... a photo or two would be great!

Most of the time you want to replace parts in pairs where applicable. If parts have a left and a right or an up and a down (two's) Control arms, Ball Joints, Bushings it is almost always recommended that both are replaced.

While I'm at it... The Front ...

Three (3) points of adjustment; Toe, Camber and Caster. Toe is if your front wheels are not aligned straight left/right. Camber is when the wheel is leaning in or out top/bottom. Castor is distance from back center hub to front center hub... if, they do not match on each side ...your alignment is not square.

If you take it to get it aligned... ask, if they do all 3 adjustments. Check the Caster yourself before taking it in.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
From a post of mine on another forum.
In general inner Tire Wear Lower Control Arm Bushings; outer Tire wear Upper Control Arm bushings.
I don't know what other issues like Ball Joits and Tie Rods can cause.

The Upper and Lower Control Arms pivot on the elasticity of the Rubber. Unless there was some accident it could be all of the Rubber Bushings are on the way out.
That makes a tough decision; replace one or all.
Hey thanks that's what I thought it was
 

·
Registered
1984 300D
Joined
·
5,487 Posts
I think keeping the steering wheel held centered is important; especially for the toe in.

I go by Diesel911 on this other forum. In post #4 is 2 pictures of a screw that holds your steering Box in the position that the wheel is supposed to be centered on. It requires that you remove a plug and the crush washer and when you look in side past the hole there is another hole in the interior part that the pin taper goes into. The first pic is the Hazet tool that was over $40 the other pick is of one I made to do the job and at the bottom of the pic is the plug you need to remove. Note while fluid is not going to gush out when you remove the plug it will drip slowly out with the tool installed. On mine you notice there is a nut on it. I put an O-ring on there and when the tool was installed I tightened the nut down to compress the O-ring so that it sealed the area from leaks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
From a post of mine on another forum.
In general inner Tire Wear Lower Control Arm Bushings; outer Tire wear Upper Control Arm bushings.
I don't know what other issues like Ball Joits and Tie Rods can cause.

The Upper and Lower Control Arms pivot on the elasticity of the Rubber. Unless there was some accident it could be all of the Rubber Bushings are on the way out.
That makes a tough decision; replace one or all.
Hey just wanted to say thank you for the info.I'm changing everything .all bushings were completely dry rotted,go figure lol,cars 30 yes old well almost.but hey thanks again.
 

·
Registered
1989 W124 260E
Joined
·
3,142 Posts
I had this problem after replacing all front end components on my W123 few years ago ... Took ages to get the steering wheel in the centre .It plays havoc with the turn signals .. Cancel out before you turn and then staying on when on the other lock ..Only guy that could fixe mine was an old time mechanic ..This was after i visited 3 tyre shops to get it lined up,, and they could not fix it ..But i think the old time mechanics know more about these than new guys . It will mean rolling the car along the floor after adjustment is made equal on each side ..The nunbsculls jump in with a might moveable wrench and do all adjustment to one side only. First thing is the steering wheel must be locked in the stright ahead position,,there is a tool made to do this .. with the wheels in line with the rears this is done before any adjustmens made . Good luck i know where your coming from and wish you good luck. Keep chin up it is possible ti get it right .
 
1 - 20 of 21 Posts
Top