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U1300L Turbo x 3
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Discussion Starter #1
So lets say hypothetically there was a 416L doka that has a double clutch, and that truck was leaking pretty good from the rear main seal, as well as the transmission input seal. The clutch has a bit of chatter when attempting to go from a standstill.

Would you bother taking the whole damn thing apart and fixing all the seals in the gearbox and engine, or just keep adding oil?
 

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85' U1300L Holset Turbo VA A/C, 66' Propane 404.1 rock mog, 1975 416 Doka, G500, Volvo C303
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Depends on if it's been sitting or driven.

But at the end of the day you should really take time to fix it.

Use the access hole to spray the clutch down with brake cleaner to regain clutch feel.
 

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'02 UNIMOG® UGN. until its deleted or passes scrutineering.
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If you drive on the road, fix it, the 2 wheeled motorcycle riders wouldnt want to go slip sliding away.

If you go through water, the little fishies and other water creatures including the tree huggers would appreciate it.

If you are married, live with your parents and had a beautiful interlock driveway, or had a garage with a cement floor, it wouldnt look ugly or be a health hazard from falling.

To keep filling it would only make the oil companies happy, and richer.
 

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85' U1300L Holset Turbo VA A/C, 66' Propane 404.1 rock mog, 1975 416 Doka, G500, Volvo C303
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Shall we make guesses as to labor time to replace leaking seals and clutch parts...I'll bet it's a bunch of hours!
Thus why I would clean the clutch and drive the truck a bit to see how bad she leaks with warmed up lubricated seals!!!

Otherwise, get out the cab tilt brackets!!!:eek:
 

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U1300L Turbo x 3
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Discussion Starter #7
The truck has been driven quite a bit now, and it appears to be getting worse, not better. So, yeah, time to strap on the tipping brackets I suppose. It's more than a little bit of effort to get to the rope seal and trans input.

It's not really that technical, but just laborious, like digging post holes by hand. :(




Thus why I would clean the clutch and drive the truck a bit to see how bad she leaks with warmed up lubricated seals!!!

Otherwise, get out the cab tilt brackets!!!:eek:
 

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U1550L/37 Doka, U1700L/38, Merc 1017A
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i pulled apart a trans with dual clutch and cascade from a 406 a few years back and dont recall seeing an input seal. trev can probably confirm looking at the epc.
 

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250GD Wolf
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Love to but I'm getting an error trying to run it :(

Likely related to the release of Java I just updated, leave it to them to $&^% something up.

EDIT: huh, lookie that, roll back Java, all is good. Buggers.

What transmission Code are we talking here?
 

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Sold .....1987 U1250 Unimog
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Doesn't the crank have to come out on the OM352 to replace the rear main seal?
What Trevor said is true per my manual and looking at doing just this on my Om352 a few weeks ago.... Seeing as it wasn't leaking I didn't mess with it. I also have the seals in hand and they appear to be 2 parts, and a pain to install.

I have read older threads where some have done the lower seal by pulling just the pan, but I would plan on pulling the motor and what ever is attached as one unit if you can to do the top half as the crank has to be removed.
 

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1962 404, 1957 405SH and lots of Landrovers
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Just for a laugh i'd try 'oil seal rejuvenator' in the engine oil. it swells the up the seals by 5% and lasts as long as the oil is in the engine. its been used by me very sucessfully on old tractors and Landrovers saving a lot of time and hassle rebuilding engines.

:thumbsup:

j
 

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U1300L Turbo x 3
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Discussion Starter #13
So it turns out the clutch chatter is magnified by an extremely loose rear torque tube socket. :(

I was doing a freeway test drive and there's enough left and right play to cause the truck to wander, or at least feel "floaty".:eek:
 

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BenzWorld UNIMOG statesman
Unimog 404.1 Diesel (sold :( )1995 LMTV 1078
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So it turns out the clutch chatter is magnified by an extremely loose rear torque tube socket. :(

I was doing a freeway test drive and there's enough left and right play to cause the truck to wander, or at least feel "floaty".:eek:
so the loose torque tube would affect the suspension and cause float feeling?... yikes.

Im sure most here know this.. but for any newbie reading.... T.Tube is the third member of a three member suspension on Mogs.
 
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