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1984 380se
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135 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I am going to begin ripping into the front of my 380se to do the rails and chain. I have mostly MB parts except the sprockets and rails. The sprockets are Swag and I opted for the Meyle aluminum rails. I have the pin puller and chain loader, all the sockets and wrenches. I'm not planning on removing the rockers on the right bank, but using a pair of vise grips to lock it in place once I am ready to cut the chain and run the new one in. I will be doing the rails and the cam sprocket on the left bank first then moving on to the right side. Do I have to take the tensioner off first before doing any of this? I am going to line up the marks on the cam towers/sprockets then mark the sprockets and chain with paint pen before replacing them. At the same time, I will do the rails(including the tensioner rail)then move on to the chain and the tensioner itself. Do I have the right order in doing this and is there anything I should prepare myself for? I have downloaded a lot of threads on doing this, I just want to make sure I don't screw this up...

Thanks
 

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'84 500 SEC Euro 040 black Lorinser 2005 sl500
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-- I will be doing the rails and the cam sprocket on the left bank first then moving on to the right side. Do I have to take the tensioner off first before doing any of this?

Leave the tensioner in place until you have finished the left side, then remove the right sprocket (chain still strapped to the sprocket while removing), then remove the tensioner and remove the sprocket from the chain.

--I am going to line up the marks on the cam towers/sprockets then mark the sprockets and chain with paint pen before replacing them.

Mark the sprocket in at least 2 places, 3 places even better. You'll be grabbing both the chain and sprocket a lot with oily hands. Better to have too many references rather than have only one rub off.

Tips: Take pictures of how each system looks before you remove them such as how the cruise is bolted on, which holes the power steering mount bolts go in....

Keep tension on the chain while you have the sprockets off. The wire and bungee cord method mentioned in the threads you have collected works really well.

If your alternator bracket bolts (the 4 bolts that hold the bracket to the head) are original be very careful removing them. They take a lot of force to break loose and are very easy to strip. I used both a 6mm hex and a T-40 bit and still stripped 2 of them. They are available at the dealer and have been changed to a regular bolt now instead of hex head to make removal easier for the future.

Make sure while pulling the pins with the puller that your pin puller is absolutely straight to the pin. The pin may take some work getting it to break free and you do not want to break the end of the pin puller off in the pin. Use the cut out slot on the tool to keep everything even. I rocked the nut that forces the pin out back and forth placing a little more preassure tightening it each time I rocked it.

I got a lot of tips from this write up:

M117 Timing Chain Replacement - Pictorial - Topklasse Discussion Board

Great pictures and easy to understand instructions.

Good luck and allow a lot of extra time.
 

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1984 380se
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135 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the tips and posting the link to Topklasse. I had read this awhile ago and forgot to download it and then forgot where the hell I saw it. So far I've gotten the p/s pump and bracket off. I spent about half a day just cleaning everything. It's amazing how much dirt and grime gets imbedded behind the brackets on this car....
 

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1984 380se
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135 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Ok, i finally got to start this. After 2 family deaths and a 2 week vacation it was time to dig into this. Last night I marked the wires and pulled the cap off. Couldn't find my 13/16 socket to pull the plugs, so I bought a new one today. I discovered that I had Bosch resistor plugs in. I need to pick up some NGK's for replacements. When I pulled the valve covers, all my marks were lined up and the position of the distributor was at 1:00, lucky me... my cams also look very good with no marks or flat spots on them. My timing mark is at 11 degrees BTD. The mark on the right cam is spot on but the one on the driverside is a little after the mark, not much but maybe a width of the mark. Also the chain looks like it was never changed because there is no master link and all the links look uniform. Is this possible on a car with 187,000 miles? I will post some pics tomorrow...
 

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1984 380se
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135 Posts
Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
The guides,.....
the guides!

What color are the guides?
The guides are dark rootbeer brown. I am replacing them with the Meley aluminum ones. I just don't understand how this car survived if the chain was never replaced... I am going to post pics tomorrow
 
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