[H.D.]

Before I get to my suggestion how to check and how to change the KE-Jetronic’s Lambda control adjustment, I’d like to address some basics in this first post, which might help better understand the matter. I’ll continue with some recommendations and considerations and the detailed procedures in post #2.

Basics:

Here at BenzWorld.org I see the Lambda control adjustment usually being called ‘duty cycle adjustment’, or (not really suitably) ‘mixture adjustment’ or ‘air/fuel mixture adjustment’, which can easily lead to (and possibly often reveals) misconception. … By changing the adjustment the position of the fuel distributor’s control plunger in relation to the air sensor plate’s position is changed, which in case of a K-Jetronic (without lambda control) results in a changed ‘air/fuel mixture’, but - aside from the engine’s warm-up phase, or completely floored accelerator, or limp home mode - not in case of a KE-Jetronic!

What is ‘Lambda control’?
It’s the fine-tuning of the air/fuel mixture to a ratio at which complete fuel combustion takes place, in order to minimize pollutants. That ratio is called ‘λ (Lambda) = 1’, which in case of non-ethanol fuel is given at an air/fuel ratio of about 14.7 mass units of air for 1 mass unit of fuel (14.7:1). It’s a compromise between engine torque and fuel consumption. The highest engine torque would be given at a ratio of about 12.5:1, and the lowest fuel consumption would be given at a ratio of about 16:1.

How does Lambda control work?
I like to use a metaphor for illustration. While driving along the road our eye tells our brain to which side the car is about to drift off-lane, the brain processes that information and tells our hand to turn the wheel a little to the left or to the right, which we more or less alternately do all the time. … Translated to the KE-Jetronic the lane is ‘λ = 1’, the eye is the o2 sensor, the brain is the ECU (electronic control unit), and the hand is the EHA (electro-hydraulic actuator).
The EHA is a valve via which fuel flows through the lower chambers of the fuel distributor’s pressure differential valves in order to control the quantity of fuel injection, hence the air/fuel mixture. The EHA’s baffle plate is electromagnetically moved closer to or further away from its inlet nozzle by positive or negative current from the ECU, by which the lower chamber pressure can be changed. And the lower chamber pressure controls the fuel flow through the upper chambers, each of which has a separate injector pipe port.
In order to detect whether complete fuel combustion is taking place, regardless of the type of fuel, the o2 sensor compares the amount of residual oxygen in the exhaust gas with the amount of oxygen in the ambient air. At the ratio which represents complete fuel combustion (λ = 1) the o2 sensor is very sensitive and generates a voltage of 450 mV. That voltage changes significantly at tiny changes of the oxygen ratio. At ‘λ = 0.98’ the o2 sensor voltage is about 800 mV, and at ‘λ = 1.02’ it’s about 100 mV. And as we can not keep the car in its lane without tiny adjustments via steering wheel, ‘λ’ can not be kept at ‘1’ without tiny mixture adjustments either. The air/fuel mixture is either a touch too lean or a touch too rich and alternately has to be enriched and leaned a touch (micro-tuned) in order to keep ‘λ’ close to ‘1’. Lambda fluctuates with about +/- 0.02 around 1, when the o2 sensor voltage fluctuates with about +/- 350 mV around 450 mV, which with a healthy o2 sensor hapens at a cycle frequency of about 0.5 – 1 Hz. That’s the o2 sensor voltage the ECU ‘wants’ to receive, and it adjusts the air/fuel mixture via EHA control in such a way that it does receive that voltage, regardless of the kind of fuel, which in case of non-ethanol fuel leads to an a/f mixture fluctuating with about +/- 0.3 around 14.7:1. In case of ethanol containing fuel it leads to a different (richer) mixture, depending on the percentage of ethanol in the fuel.
Here’s a simplified example of one Lambda control cycle with non-ethanol fuel, which takes about 2 seconds at idle:
- λ ~ 0.98, (a/f ~ 14.4:1), > o2 sensor voltage to ECU ~ 800 mV
- ECU generates more negative EHA current (duty cycle: 45%)
- leaning the air/fuel mixture
- λ ~ 1.02, (a/f ~ 15:1), > o2 sensor voltage to ECU ~ 100 mV
- ECU generates more positive EHA current (duty cycle: 49%)
- enriching the air/fuel mixture
- next cycle: λ ~ 0.98, (a/f ~ 14.4:1), > …..

What happens when we change the Lambda control adjustment?
Let’s say the duty cycle is fluctuating like in the above example between 45% and 49% at idle. When we change the adjustment by turning the adjustment screw cw the control plunger moves to a higher position, leading to a richer mixture. That immediately leads to o2 sensor voltage not undershooting 450 mV, upon which the ECU immediately reacts with an EHA current fluctuating around a more negative mean value in order to lean the mixture again, which is accompanied by a duty cycle fluctuating, for example, between 33% and 37%.
And when the control plunger is set to a lower position by turning the adjustment screw ccw, leading to a leaner mixture, the o2-sensor immediately reacts with voltage not overshooting 450 mV, upon which the ECU immediately reacts by sending a current fluctuating around a more positive mean value through the EHA’s coil in order to enrich the mixture again, which is accompanied by a duty cycle fluctuating, for example, between 57% and 61%.
No matter to which position the control plunger is set, unless it’s set too high by cw turns beyond the EHA’s ‘Lambda leaning limit’, or too low by ccw turns beyond the EHA’s ‘Lambda enriching limit’, the ECU always adjusts the air/fuel mixture via EHA control, regardless of the kind of fuel, in such a way that it receives o2 sensor voltage that fluctuates with about +/- 350 mV around 450 mV, which represents ‘λ ~ 1 +/- 0.02’ respectively ‘a/f ~ 14.7 +/- 0.3 : 1’ (in case of non-ethanol fuel).
Or, speaking in terms of ‘duty cycle’: No matter around which mean value the duty cycle fluctuates, as long as it’s above 5–10% (‘leaning limit’) and below 90–95% (‘enriching limit’), if it fluctuates, Lambda respectively the air/fuel mixture fluctuates around the correct ratio, intactness of the system provided, of course. However, around (or close to) 50% it does that more precisely than, for example, around 20% or 80% (I’ll get back to that in post #2).
Conclusion: When we change the duty cycle adjustment we change the operating ranges of both the control plunger and the EHA’s baffle plate … but not the mixture!
- Control plunger higher > EHA more open
- Control plunger lower > EHA more closed

What’s this ‘duty cycle’ about?
Parallel to the fluctuating EHA current the ECU sends a square wave voltage with a corresponding ‘on/off ratio’ to port 3 of the diagnostic coupling X11, where it can be measured in 'duty cycle', 'dwell angle' or 'volt'. This fluctuating duty cycle is an easier to check representative of the EHA current, and the duty cycle check / adjustment is actually an EHA current check / adjustment.
A duty cycle of 50% represents an EHA current of ‘0’ mA, a duty cycle below 50% represents negative current (flowing in one direction through the EHA’s coil), and a duty cycle above 50% represents positive current (flowing in the other direction through the EHA’s coil).
Additionally to the fluctuating duty cycle, a non-fluctuating (static) duty cycle while the engine is running serves as error code.

From the above it may also become clear that the air/fuel mixture can not only be ‘micro-adjusted’ (to ‘λ ~ 1 +/- 0.02’) via EHA control, as often assumed, but also ‘macro-adjusted’ - as long as the EHA’s leaning / enriching limits are not exceeded. Especially the leaning capability via EHA control is significant, and more precise.
Let me illustrate this ‘macro-adjustment’ with my driving-along-the-road metaphor:
As explaned above, the ‘micro-adjustment’ via EHA control is like the constantly done tiny adjustments via steering wheel to the left and right in order to keep the lane, no matter whether we’re driving along a straight road or through a curve. The ‘macro-adjustment’ is like the turning of the steering wheel in order to follow the road’s changed direction. The changed direction of the road represents a changed condition of the system … for example, a changed control plunger position in relation to the air sensor plate, or different fuel, or contamination in the fuel distributor, or a false air leak (of limited size of course), etc. …. conditions, all of which without EHA control would result in more or less significantly too rich / lean mixture.
The more or less far to the left or right turned steering wheel represents the EHA’s baffle plate position more or less far away from the EHA’s inlet nozzle, respectively an EHA current more or less far below or above ‘0’ mA, respectively a duty cycle more or less far below or above 50%.
And like we continue with the tiny adjustments of the steering wheel to the left and right in order to keep the lane, no matter whether we hold the steering wheel in the straight-ahead position on a straight road or turned to the left or to the right in a curve, the ECU continues with the tiny adjustments of the EHA’s baffle plate in order to keep ‘λ ~ 1 +/- 0.02’, no matter whether the baffle plate is operating closer to or further away to either side from its center position (closer to or further away from the EHA’s inlet nozzle).

Continued in post #2 …

 

[H.D.]

… continuation of post #1

Purpose of the adjustment:

Since, as I explaned in post #1, the air/fuel mixture is unchanged, no matter whether the system is adjusted to a higher or to a lower duty cycle … what is the purpose of the adjustment?
It’s the EHA’s optimal operating range with regard to:
- Lambda control (keeping ‘λ ~ 1 +/- 0.02’ by fine-tuning the air/fuel mixture)
- the engine’s running behavior.

Regarding Lambda control the EHA’s optimal operating range is given when its baffle plate oscillates around its center position (currentless rest position) – in other words, when the EHA current fluctuates around ‘0’ mA, which is represented by a duty cycle fluctuating around 50%. That way the EHA has its highest dosage accuracy.

Regarding running behavior, however, a slightly further opened EHA with its current fluctuating around a mean value slightly below ‘0’ mA at idle, which is represented by a duty cycle fluctuating around a mean value slightly below 50%, is better. That has i.a. to do with the in post #1 mentioned better leaning than enriching capability of the EHA. A duty cycle at idle fluctuating around a mean value of about 47% or a little lower is usually a good choice for an intact KE-Jetronic in my experience.

I’d like to add that there’s another advantage of a duty cycle close to 50%, respectively of an operating range of the EHA’s baffle plate close to its currentless rest position. That way the air/fuel mixture is almost unchanged if the KE-Jetronic goes into limp home mode due to a failure of the ‘E’ in ‘KE-Jetronic’, and during driving at normal operating temperature most drivers would probably not even notice any change.
That, btw, was a major argument in favor of the KE-Jetronic (as an advanced K-Jetronic) for Mercedes, at a time when BMW was already using the fully electronic L-Jetronic. They did not want to see pictures and reports in the media about S-Classes standing on Autobahn brakedown lanes due to injection system problems ever again either, which they did with the fully electronic D-Jetronic they introduced in the early 70s. Instead they prefered the owner to drive quietly to the dealership and tell the friendly people there that somehow the car behaves strangely for a minute or two after starting it in the morning ... lol.


Please note:

Above target values apply to an intact system (not only CIS) !
Generally problems relevant for the fuel combustion have an influence on the EHA control, hence on the duty cycle. Depending on the problem(s), the most suitable duty cycle could, for instance, be below 30% or above 70%.

Here are a few examples of relevant problems:
Oil or coolant getting into the combustion chamber(s), wrong or bad spark plugs, bad distributor cap/rotor, worn injectors, leaking cold start valve, contaminated metering slits in the fuel distributor, incorrect fuel pressure, false air leaks, clogged air filter, incorrect ignition timing / faulty vaccum advance, false input from o2 sensor, problems with the ECU, EHA’s baffle plate damaged, EHA’s coil damaged (resistance should be 18–21 Ω), incorrectly adjusted throttle linkage, throttle plate not resting against its idle stop, air sensor plate not centered or its ‘zero position’ incorrect, control plunger sluggish or stuck, problem with EGR valve, bad battery, bad voltage regulator, …

On the other hand, a duty cycle check might help to track such problems. A high duty cycle might be caused, for example, by a false air leak, which of course should be fixed instead of turning the duty cycle lower with the adjustment screw. A low duty cycle might be caused, for example, by a leaking cold start valve, which of course should be fixed instead of turning the duty cycle higher.

Correcting the duty cycle to the target value is often done too easily, IMHO, and should only be done if the elimination of the reason for its deviation is an option which doesn’t come into consideration, like maybe for instance in case of a problem inside the fuel distributor.
But, checking the duty cycle is too often neglected as a quicky and easily done diagnostic measure, IMO.

The kind of fuel being used (non-ethanol / ethanol-containing) has no effect on the validity of the above EHA current / duty cycle target values (see ‘Basics’ in post #1). However, it has of course an effect on the position to which the control plunger has to be set (via adjustment screw) in order to get to these values !
After a switch between fuel types, depending on the o2 sensor’s input, the ECU sends different amperage through the EHA in order to change its operating range, accompanied by a correspondingly different duty cycle, so that it continues to receive o2 sensor input fluctuating around 450 mV (which represents ‘λ ~ 1’). Therefore after a switch between fuel types the duty cycle should be checked, and if necessary readjusted to the target values !

I’d also like to point out, that the duty cycle adjustment does not ensure corresponding optimal results if the adjustment of the EHA’s baffle plate has been improperly changed !
Changing the EHA’s adjustment can make sense in case of a changed fuel distributor condition. There could, for example, be contamination, or the pressure differential valve’s diaphragms / springs may have been replaced and differ from the original ones, etc.. But bear in mind that by changing the EHA’s adjustment the mechanically predetermined fuel flow rate through the lower chambers of the pressure differential valves in relation to the fuel flow rate through the meetering slits into the upper chambers is changed, which IMO should not be done without adequate know-how and care. If done improperly the EHA current’s / duty cycle’s informative value is gone! … and it’s proper adjustment, as for instance also required for other tests, impossible !


Measuring device:

I suggest to either use an analog duty cycle meter or an analog voltmeter. Analog meters offer more comfortable monitoring of the fluctuating readings than digital meters.

Duty cycle meter:
Some duty cycle meters show the percentage of the square wave voltage’s ‘on’-time, and others show the percentage of its ‘off’-time. In case of the KE-Jetronic the duty cycle value refers to the square wave voltage’s ‘off’-time. A meter which shows the ‘on’-time would, for instance, read 53% instead of the relevant 47%.
If you’re not sure which version your meter is: With ignition switched on (engine not running) the duty cycle should be about 70% (California: 85%). If the meter shows about 30% (California: 15%), it’s probably the wrong version. And if, while the engine is running, the fluctuating duty cycle drops when the adjustment screw is turned cw, it’s the right version.

Voltmeter:
The voltage is converted to duty cycle according to the following formula:
duty cycle [%] = [1 - (Vp3 / Vp6)] * 100
Vp3 = voltage between X11 port 3 & port 2 (or ground)
Vp6 = (battery) voltage between X11 port 6 & port 2 (or ground) during the respective rev !
Example for a measurement at idle:
Vp3 (at idle): 7.1 - 7.6 V
Vp6 (at idle): 13.9 V
duty cycle at 7.1 V = [1 - (7.1 / 13.9)] * 100 = 48.9%
duty cycle at 7.6 V = [1 - (7.6 / 13.9)] * 100 = 45.3%
duty cycle mean value: (48.9% + 45.3%) / 2 = 47.1% (fluctuating with +/- 1.8%)


Preparations:

• In case of California version the ECU may have to be switched over to duty cycle output. Check the service manual for instructions if necessary.
• Warm up the engine to its normal operating temperature. A 10-minute warm-up drive is better than letting the engine idle until it’s warm. Make sure that the engine does not heat up too much during the check / adjustment procedure.
• Pull off the vacuum line between the throttle valve and the regeneration valve of the fuel evaporation system at the regeneration valve and block it.
• Keep the A/C switched off.

Check procedures:

• Connect the meter to the diagnostic coupling X11 port 3 and 2 (or ground).
• With ignition switched on (engine not running) the duty cycle should be about 70% (California: 85%).
  If you’re using a voltmeter it should read 0.3 * Vp6 (California: 0.15 * Vp6)
  If in case of engine M116 / M117 the duty cycle is 100%: The installed ECU version doesn’t feature fault diagnosis via static duty cycle.
• Take off the air filter lid and check two other duty cycle values with ignition switched on (engine not running):
  With the throttle closed and the air sensor plate deflected the duty cycle should be about 10%. If it stays at 70% there may be a problem with the ‘closed signal’ of the throttle position sensor.
  With the throttle fully opened and the air sensor plate not deflected the duty cycle should be about 20%. If it only drops to 40% there’s a problem with the air flow potentiometer.
  Put the air filter lid back on for the duty cycle check with the engine running, which should be done with the air filter installed (and clean)!
• Start the engine, let it idle and wait until the reading starts to fluctuate (it takes a moment until the o2-sensor reaches its operating temperature). If it doesn’t start to fluctuate after a while, the meter may be displaying a static error code (see ‘Static duty cycle’ further down).
• Increase the engine’s speed and monitor the meter while you keep the speed at about 2500 rpm. The reading should fluctuate! Record the values between which it fluctuates – it should be a range not much bigger than 4%, for instance: valley = 42%, peak = 46% (mean value = 44%). The fluctuation frequency (1 cycle = from ‘valley’ to ‘peak’ and back to ‘valley’) should be about 1 Hz (1 cycle per second).
• Then check the reading at idle. Again it should fluctuate, and again record the values between which it fluctuates. The fluctuation frequency should be about 0.5 Hz (1 cycle per 2 seconds).
• The mean value at idle should not differ by more than +/- 10% from the mean value at 2500 rpm.
  In case of engine M116 / M117 of model years ’86 & ‘87 the mean value at idle should be 5-15% higher than the mean value at 2500 rpm.

Adjustment procedures:

• Remove the plug from the adjustment tower (if it’s still in there), so that the Allen wrench can be inserted. You can put a drop of oil into the adjustment tower if you like.
• Then start the engine, let it idle and wait until the reading starts to fluctuate again.
• Please note: adjustments are always done at idle (not at the higher rev)!
• Then insert a 3 mm Allen wrench into the spring-loaded adjustment pin in the adjustment tower and carefully push it down. Don’t put too much pressure on it, otherwise the air sensor plate’s lever below the adjustment pin might be pushed down, which can easily stall the engine. With the Allen wrench engaged, turn the adjustment pin a little to and fro in order to let it snap into the actual adjustment srew, which is located in the air sensor plate’s lever.
• Turn the adjustment srew in small steps. Even tiny turns can change the duty cycle by several percent.
  Cw turns lower the duty cycle … ccw turns raise the duty cycle.
• After each step briefly rev the engine and let it settle for about 10 seconds before taking readings.
• I recommend to record the total adjustment angle. If you turn the adjustment srew too far the engine will stall. And if you can not remember how far and in which direction you have turned it, you may not get the engine restarted. Then the KE-Jetronic needs to be reset in order to get the engine started again, which is not very difficult, but unnecessary labor.
• After the adjustment to the desired value at idle, check the duty cycle at 2500 rpm and then again at idle.
  Readjust if the mean value difference between both engine speeds exceeds the above-named allowance.

Static duty cycle:

A static (not fluctuating) duty cycle value with the engine running and the o2-sensor at operating temperature, indicates a problem according to the following list:

• 0%: problem with the meter
  or diagnostic coupling (X11)
  or too rich setting (beyond the EHA’s ‘leaning limit’)
• 10%: TPS (throttle position sensor), throttle fully closed signal
  or (if at 2.000 rpm) no/false supply voltage to POT (air flow potentiometer)
• 20%: TPS, ‘throttle fully open’ signal
• 30%: CTS (coolant temperature sensor)
• 40%: no/false output voltage from POT
• 50%: o2 sensor (aside from not having reached its operating temperature yet)
• 60%: car speed signal (displayed during driving or engine still running after driving)
• 70%: CPS (crankshaft position sensor)
  or EZL (electronic ignition module)
• 80%: IATS (intake air temperature sensor)
• 95%: micro switch of throttle linkage (4- and 6-cylinder engines)
• 100%: problem with the meter
  or diagnostic coupling (X11)
  or ECU ‘N3’ (missing connection to voltage supply or to ground)
  or OVP (overvoltage protection relay)
  or o2 sensor signal (short to ground)
  or too lean setting (beyond the EHA’s ‘enriching limit’)

Consider that in case of a static duty cycle reading, there may be just a problem with the connection of a component (loose / broken cable, damaged plug) instead the component itself.

Depending on the running behavior after duty cycle readjustment an additional EHA check which includes overrun cut-off and acceleration enrichment and lower chamber fuel pressure tests under various engine operating modes may be recommendable.

Don’t forget to reconnect the vacuum line of the fuel evaporation system!

H.D.

 

[H.D.]

… Regarding running behavior, however, a slightly further opened EHA with its current fluctuating around a mean value slightly below ‘0’ mA at idle, which is represented by a duty cycle fluctuating around a mean value slightly below 50%, is better. That has i.a. to do with the in post #1 mentioned better leaning than enriching capability of the EHA. A duty cycle at idle fluctuating around a mean value of about 47% or a little lower is usually a good choice for an intact KE-Jetronic in my experience. ...

I’d like to add some content to the above "i.a." :

Another reason for a duty cycle preferably below 50% is contamination.

Deposits can, for instance, narrow the 0.2 mm (~ 0.008“) wide vertical metering slits through which the fuel flows from the control plunger side into the upper chambers of the fuel distributor’s pressure differential valves. With the control plunger set to a slightly higher position via Lambda adjustment screw, these metering slits are a little wider open, which, as described in detail in post 1, in order to continue to receive confirmation of the correct air/fuel mixture (λ ~ 1) from the o2 sensor, is compensated via EHA control by more negative EHA current (lower duty cycle). Depending on the degree of contamination an adjustment to a rather low duty cycle might be beneficial for the engine’s running behavior.

However, if the degree of contamination in the fuel distributor requires a duty cycle below 35% to achive the best possible running behavior, and if a fuel distributor replacement or refurbishment does not come into consideration, changing the mechanical adjustment of the EHA’s baffle plate might be an option.
But, like refurbishing the fuel distributor, that requires adequate knowledge and significant care, patience and cleanness ! … I would not recommend to touch that tiny EHA adjustment screw if the EHA is looked at as a “black box” attached to another “black (gray) box”. … I’m thinking about creating a separate detailed thread about checking and changing the “EHA adjustment”, similar to this “duty cyle adjustment” thread.

Talking about contamination …
The KE-Jetronic is not overly enthusiastic about ethanol containing fuel, especially when the car sits a lot. I recommend not to put the car into hibernation for a couple of months with the fuel system filled with fuel containing more than 5% ethanol ! … If it’s unavoidable, I recommend at least to use a good and proper fuel additive, which I recommend in case of fuel containing more than 5% ethanol anyway, even if the car is driven long distance every day.
Ethanol containing fuel can lead to increased deposit forming and to acidification, which can lead to corrosion of the aluminium … and aluminum … parts of the KE-Jetronic.
There are fuel additives on the market which promise to prevent these effects and which, aside from the corrosion, even promise to reverse them … and I don’t say they don’t.

H.D.

 

[H.D.]

Yes … there is a Hall sensor on the back of your mechanical tachometer.

Btw, I’d like to ask you a favor, Attila? … You quoted the complete post 2 in your post, which your question, as clear as it is, really doesn’t require. If you don’t mind, I’d appreciate it if you could edit your post and delete that quote.

 

[H.D.]

... is there any way to diagnose this Hall sensor? ...

The Hall sensor signal can be checked with an oscilloscope.

You can check the supply voltage and the integrity of the wires (continuity / ground fault) with a multimeter:
- supply voltage wire: double plug (terminal 1, to same fuse as brakelight).
- ground wire: double plug (terminal 2)
- signal wire: single plug (to ECU terminal 6)

... The speedo itself is working, the only unusual thing is that it is fluctuating at low speeds, especially when the car its cold. Can this fluctuation cause the error code? ...

Depending on the extent of the fluctuation it can lead to implausible Hall sensor input.

Make sure that the speedometer cable is not kinked, and lubricate it with a few drops of ATF.

H.D.

 

[H.D.]

This issue is indeed W124 or W201 specific and a little off-topic in this thread, especially since the W126 is equipped with an electronic speedometer, and not with a mechanical speedometer + Hall sensor … and a separate thread about it (best in the W124 or W201 forum) would cerainly make more sense.

 

[H.D.]

I’d like to reemphasize something I already addressed in post 2 of this thread.

In several threads I read that members simply readjusted the duty cycle because it was too high / low when they checked it. … Following my driving-along-the-road metaphor from post 1 that’s like loosening the steering wheel’s locknut and changing the wheel’s position because it’s not straight on a straight road, without caring about possible reasons like uneaven tyre pressure, sticking brake pistons, damaged steering mechanism, ...

Translated to the KE-Jetronic: If the duty cycle is out of tune, there’s a reason for that, and with a probability bordering on certainty it’s not related to the adjustment screw, unless someone fiddled around with it. Maybe there’s a fuel pressure problem, or a leaky CSV, or a false air leak, … … just to mention a few problems which influence the duty cycle ... and which would still be there after simply readjusting it.

The duty cycle should primarily be seen as diagnostic information ... not only when it shows a static error code, but also when it fluctuates !
While that information is too often neglected, IMO, I always wanted access to it (plus other info) at the touch of a button anytime during driving or parking, and the picture below shows a device which provides that. I built it into the ashtray of my 300CE, when it was less than half as old as it is now.

Also, IMO, too often neglected is the information fuel pressure tests (particularly lower chamber pressure tests under specific conditions) can provide … best supplemented by simultaneous EHA current tests (of course, with the EHA adjustment screw not having been fiddled with !) … and, even better, also supplemented by simultaneous closed-loop o2 sensor voltage tests.
These tests in addition to the duty cycle test, can be very informative … of course, with the duty cycle adjustment screw not having been touched, at least not after a problem started ! …

Look at the KE-Jetronic as a playground for diagnostic thinking, instead of replacing parts which are not diagnosed faulty … increases the enjoyment of “golden era“ MBs … and maybe you want to give a device like the one I made some thought … facilitates diagnosing problems with the OVP, FPR, CPS, o2-sensor, AFM-POT, TPS, CTS, and other parts immensely … especially if they’re intermittant. …

H.D.

P.S.: I apologize in advance if I don‘t notice further posts / questions, which might happen because I‘m not receiving (required) email notifications from Benzworld anymore.

 

[H.D.]

H.D.
I love the idea of the feedback gauge. Do you have records or instructions of how you did it?
As if I'm going to add this to my list of 'to do's'. Well, I'd still love to see the info. It's a great idea.

Thanks luckymike … it‘s not very difficult … should be done with care though, so that no components (especially ECU) get damaged.

I might start a separate thread about this device, because it provides info not only about the duty cycle, but also about other things which would be off-topic here in this thread.

But since I‘m not receiving required email notifications from Benzworld anymore (neither on threads I’m subscribed to, nor on PMs), I hesitate to do that, as well as to participate in other member’s threads, because it can easily happen that I don’t notice further posts / questions in such threads, especially if they‘re a few days old.

I added my last post to this thread mainly as emphasis not to neglect the (also w/o such a device) easily available diagnostic information the duty cycle provides … and not to readjust the duty cycle carelessly ! … and not to neglect the other (very informative) tests I mentioned, which I might start separate threads about too when I have more time and when that notification problem is fixed.

I still hope it can be fixed, but unfortunately all efforts and inquiries to BW‘s administration have been unsuccessful so far. … :dunno:
@jaymaynard, I‘ll get back to your post / thread later.

H.D.

 

[H.D.]

[MENTION=560873]... my 1987 560SL ... idles rough when it's warm ... duty cycle wanders all over the place when it's doing that, from the upper 20s to about 54%. ...

In advance I‘d like to say that the diagnosis of your car‘s symptoms (idle & duty ccle) depends on their details.

Basically … the o2 sensor (besides other sensors) tells the ECU what it detects, and the ECU tells the EHA what to do ... and there could be a problem with one of these parts or their connections, or with the FD (fuel distributor) or other CIS parts, like e.g. the injectors. ... The (simultaneous) tests mentioned in post 22 (EHA current, fuel pressure, o2 sensor voltage) would bring more insight. They would show whether the ECU is doing what it’s supposed to do … and whether it’s telling the diagnostic socket the truth about what it’s doing (in duty cycle language) ... and whether what it’s doing has respective effect on the EHA, hence on the fuel pressure in the lower chambers of the FD's differential pressure valves … and, consequently, on the air/fuel mixture … and, consequently, on the o2 sensor … and whether the ECU gets correct feedback from the o2 sensor ...

Regarding these other involved sensors, and as an example! of the above mentioned duty cycle details … if e.g. the duty cycle fluctuates around a value in the area of 50% and suddenly jumps to a static value close to 30% and then jumps back to fluctuate in a range closer to 50% again, there could be an intermittent problem with the CTS (coolant temperature sensor), or a loose contact between the CTS and the ECU, or a problem with the ECU. ...

H.D.

P.S.: I prefer to dicuss individual cases in indiviual threads (in your case in the 107 forum) ... but the email notification problem should be fixed first, so that it can be done conveniently.

 

[H.D.]

...What am I missing?

First I'd like to be reminiscent of what I wrote in post #2 under “Please note” about touching the Lambda adjustment screw in case of duty cycle deviation from its target value. I suggest to do that only “if the elimination of the reason for its deviation is an option that does not come into consideration”.
And as I said in post #22 ... “if the duty cycle is out of tune, there’s a reason for that, and with a probability bordering on certainty it’s not related to the adjustment screw, unless someone fiddled around with it”.

Based on your description:

The CTS’s (coolant temperature sensor) input to the ECU seems to be OK, although it wouldn’t hurt to quickly check it at several engine temperatures … best by measuring its resistance at the disconnected CIS-ECU connector.

The car having been stored for many years may have (mechanically, hydraulically) affected one or some of the CIS parts (fuel distributor, EHA, fuel pressure regulator, injectors,…).

A quick fuel pressure test would narrow down the number of possible causes ... respectively possibly affected parts.
That test (with the engine at operating temperature) should at least cover:
- System Pressure at idle
- Lower Chamber Pressure at idle and at 2500 rpm (EHA plug connected and disconnected)

An additional lower chamber pressure test (with the EHA plug connected) during rapid acceleration from idle to 2500 rpm at a simulated coolant temperature of 20°C (68°F) would bring more valuable insight. A coolant temperature of 20°C can be simulated at any engine temperature with a simple 2.5 kΩ axial lead resistor (instead of the CTS) connected to the CTS plug.
Simultaneous EHA current measurement would provide further insight into the system.

If a car is only occasionally driven I recommend to use fuel that contains as little ethanol as possible and to constantly use a good fuel additive that protects the entire fuel injection system.

P.S.: Since this thread is about Lambda control and how to check and adjust it, I suggest to start a separate thread for further troubleshooting in your individual case. …

H.D.

 

[H.D.]

HD Would like to know about the extra gizmo you have under the radio . Would one of these be hard to fit in to the car ?And do you make them ?

Installing and connecting it is not difficult. To build one, a little craftsmanship is advantageous.

I made the one in the picture … but I don‘t make & sell them.

I haven‘t gotten around to do it yet, but maybe I‘ll find some time to describe it in more detail in a seperate thread this or next weekend. …

H.D.

 

[H.D.]

Here is the link to a separate thread about that on-board KE-Jetronic test device:

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w126-s-se-sec-sel-sd/2906786-board-ke-jetronic-test-device.html

 

[H.D.]

... Thanks H.D. for the explanation! The addition to the explanation of the K-Jetronic. ...

You‘re welcome! … But this thread is about one of the functions of the KE-Jetronic, the Lambda control function. It is not about the K-Jetronic.

... Could somebody tell me if the EHA is able to fully cut off fuel to the injectors? For example if the O2 sensor is broken? ...

Fuel flow is fully cut off via EHA control during overrun and when the engine‘s speed limit is reached. The o2 sensor has nothing to do with full fuel cut-off. Based on input from the o2 sensor EHA control takes place between the enriching limit & the leaning limit, which is a control window that is significantly smaller than the EHA‘s overall control window.


Christian (and other readers), since this thread is meant as a tutorial about the KE-Jetronic‘s Lambda control function, which I‘m planing to add considerably more information to when I have time, I would appreciate if you post in this thread only for general discussions about that topic and start a separate thread about your specific issue(s).

Thanks in advance! …

H.D.

 

[H.D.]

Wrong idea about “duty cycle adjustment“

I’d like to remind CIS-E car owners to an essential, but largely unknown, fact that I addressed at the beginning of this thread already.

Still many posts here at Benzworld reveal the belief that the air/fuel mixture is changed when the duty cycle is changed/readjusted … that the engine is running leaner when the duty cycle is fluctuating at a higher range and that it is running richer when it’s fluctuating at a lower range. I also saw documents posted that reveal or support this belief. Some of them looked like original MB documents at first view, but are not. Even the real MB FSM from Stuttgart can mislead to believe that, also the German version. … But it’s a misconception ! … In fact it is the most widespread misconception about the KE-Jetronic … and the also widespread habit of calling the KE-Jetronic’s Lambda duty cycle adjustment “mixture adjustment” will probably continue to feed it.

For the sake of better diagnosing/troubleshooting I really recommend to leave this misconception behind and to think of the Lambda duty cycle check/adjustment as what it actually is, namely an “EHA operating range check/adjustment”. That’s the range within which the EHA’s baffle plate fluctuates during Lambda control in relation to its currentless rest position. … That is not to be confused (!) with “EHA adjustment” via the small hidden adjustment screw on the backside of the EHA, by which the EHA’s, or to be more specific, its baffle plate’s currentless rest position itself is changed, which is an option that should only be taken into consideration in very few specific cases, verified by specific tests … and carried out properly, again verified by specific tests … and not be discussed in this Lambda control thread, please. :wink_2:

I usually do Lambda control checks/adjustments by directly measuring the EHA current instead of by measuring the on/off signal (in ‘volt’, ‘duty cycle’ or ‘dwell angle’) at the X11 diagnostic coupling. Afterwards I check if the CIS-ECU is telling the X11 diagnostic coupling in form of the Lambda on/off signal (which is actually better called off/on signal) the truth about what it is telling the EHA. That can reveal possible ECU problems that would otherwise be overlooked and lead into wrong troubleshooting directions ! … Only when I’m on the road in my (wife‘s) 300CE I occasionally monitor Lambda control via the off/on signal in the ‘ashtray’ (see post 36 ), which also allows me to monitor during driving if there is any (intermittent) problem that is represented by one of the CIS-ECU‘s error codes.

Anyway … no matter how often or where you read or hear about “adjusting / changing the mixture“, I assure you that on the KE-Jetronic you can not adjust or change the air/fuel mixture ! … unless you turn the Lambda adjustment screw cw beyond or (close) to the system’s leaning limit (duty cycle = 0%) or ccw beyond or (close) to its enriching limit (duty cycle = 100%), or Lambda control is not active (warm-up phase, WOT, or due to a problem).

With its Lambda control function the CIS-ECU tries to keep the air/fuel ratio (via EHA control) in the range where it receives O2 sensor voltage fluctuating around 450 mV, which represents “stoichiometric air/fuel ratio” … provided that there are no other fuel combustion affecting problems ! .. which is why instead of saying “which represents stoichiometric air/fuel ratio”, it’s more precise to say “which the ECU takes as representative for stoichiometric air/fuel ratio” .. a mostly overlooked, albeit for CIS-E diagnosis essential, difference I’ll get back to later.

When the duty cycle is fluctuating … (with amplitude & frequency as described under “Check procedures“ in post #2 !) … Lambda control is active. No matter whether it fluctuates around a low value or around 50% or around a high value .. if it is fluctuating, the (intact) ECU is receiving O2 sensor voltage fluctuating (in case of a healthy o2 sensor with about +/- 350 mV) around 450 mV.
Thus, provided that the O2 sensor input to the ECU is reliable and that the fuel combustion is not impaired (in any way !), when the duty cycle is fluctuating, Lambda is fluctuating with about +/- 0.02 around ‘1‘ (‘λ = 1 +/- 0.02’) … the air/fuel ratio is fluctuating with about +/- 0.3 around ‘14.7’ in case of non-ethanol fuel (or, for instance, around ‘14’ in case of E10, even though a wideband a/f meter would still read 14.7 ) … hence, the air/fuel ratio is stoichiometric.
That ratio is not changed when the range of the fluctuating duty cycle is changed ! … unless it is changed beyond or (close) to 0% or 100%.

I explained all that and what happens when the Lambda adjustment screw is turned in more detail in post #1 of this thread.

Don‘t ignore the purpose of the KE-Jetronic’s “duty cycle” !

Two of the most commonly made CIS-E-related mistakes are also still largely made here at Benzworld … ignoring the Lambda off/on ratio (duty cycle) and, IF it is checked and it deviates from the target value, rashly readjusting it via Lambda adjustment screw … or even worse, tampering with the Lambda adjustment screw without caring about the duty cycle.

That‘s why I‘d like to reiterate what I addressed already in posts 2 & 22, namely that the purpose of the duty cycle is to provide comfortably available diagnostic information … which should neither be ignored nor wiped away by simply turning the Lambda adjustment screw ! … Since it was likely that the latter would often be done by DIYers or incompetent mechanics at workshops, there was a plug put into the Lambda adjustment tower.

Duty cycle deviation should first induce a search for its cause, not for the adjustment wrench !

A fluctuating duty cycle is an easy to check representative of the EHA current which determines the EHA’s operating range that the ECU has to provide in order to keep receiving o2 sensor voltage fluctuating around 450 mV (which the ECU takes as representative for stoichiometric air/fuel ratio).
A static duty cycle, while the engine is running, is an error code. With ’ignition on, engine off’ it is either an error code or it shows, as far as it is detectable by the ECU, that the system is in order.

Although this diagnostic information, that the (fluctuating & static) duty cycle provides, can be very valuable for troubleshooting and is so easily available, it is downright unbelievably often neglected. There are CIS-E cars it has never been (properly) checked on. Many unnecessary part replacements could be prevented already by properly checking & interpreting the duty cycle !

Do not simply readjust a deviated duty cycle via Lambda adjustment screw !

Simply readjusting a deviated duty cycle via Lambda adjustment screw without caring about what‘s causing the deviation is a bad idea and can lead to engine damage ! … The further away from 50% the fluctuating duty cycle deviates, let alone if it‘s static 0% or static 100%, the worse a readjustment via adjustment screw can be for the engine.

Regard the duty cycle as a messenger that tells you whether there is a fuel combustion affecting problem or not. If it tells you (by low, or high, or static readings) that there is a problem, listen to it and follow its message, instead of shutting it up and simply readjusting it via adjustment screw ! … As I mentioned in post 2, besides after switching between non-ethanol & ethanol containing fuel, readjusting the duty cycle should be the last thing to do after fixing all causes for its deviation, respectively if fixing the cause(s) deliberately does not come into question. I emphasize “all” because I often see duty cycle readjustments done after something has been fixed/replaced without first checking for all other possibly still existing causes for deviation.

Most duty cycle readjustments that are done, even if they bring subjective improvement about, only mask the deviation’s actual cause(s) which continue(s) to exist, with negative effects !

Here‘s a simple example (of many):
An intake vacuum leak causes low O2 sensor voltage. The ECU immediately reacts by sending higher current (in positive direction) through the EHA’s coil in order to increase the amount of injected fuel as an attempt to compensate for the vacuum leak and raise the O2 sensor voltage again, which works if the leak is not too big and the Lambda enriching limit via EHA control is not reached or exceeded. ... In that case this higher EHA current is represented by a duty cycle fluctuating in a higher range. It can, of course, be lowered again by raising the position of the FD‘s control plunger in relation to the AFM plate’s position via Lambda adjustment screw … which most DIYers would probably do … with the consequence that during each warm-up phase (before Lambda control is active) the engine will suffer from way too rich a/f mixture. … It would be much better to leave the adjustment screw alone and lower the duty cycle again by fixing the vacuum leak, wouldn’t it !? …

The duty cycle (respectively the EHA current) should always be checked after fixing a fuel combustion affecting problem, respectively after replacing a fuel combustion relevant part. If (besides FD / AFM replacement which usually does require duty cycle readjustment) after a repair / replacement the duty cycle is still out of line, there is either a problem with the repair / replacement, or there is another problem, or the adjustment screw has been unprofessionally messed with.

Do not blindly tamper with the Lambda adjustment screw !

Tampering with the Lambda adjustment screw without even checking or caring about the duty cycle (or the EHA current) is an even worse idea than simply readjusting a deviated duty cycle without caring about what‘s causing the deviation … with even higher risks for the engine’s health !

Plus, done without at least knowing exactly how far in which direction the adjustment screw has been turned, valuable diagnostic information is gone for good (!) and everything that has an effect on fuel combustion (see examples under “Please note“ in post #2) has to be checked first before further touching the adjustment screw, in order to reliably restore a proper condition of the system.

Maybe this post helps a little to understand how justified the difficult to remove plug in the Lambda adjustment tower was/is. ... Without that plug, the adjustment screw would have been unprofessionally tampered with a lot more often, making diagnosis more difficult for MB workshops & Bosch service stations from the beginning. That plug may not exist anymore in most CIS-E cars, but the reason for it continues to exist !

So don‘t tamper with the Lambda adjustment screw … and make it a habit to occasionally, or better frequently, check the diagnostic information the duty cycle provides !

In case of engine problems checking the duty cycle should be one of the first things to do ! ... That alone can already point to many possible suspects as well as rule out many possible suspects.

Check it under the following conditions:
1) ignition on (engine not running)
2) ignition on (engine not running) & air sensor plate halfway deflected (throttle closed)
3) ignition on (engine not running) & throttle completely opened (air sensor plate not deflected)
4) engine warmed up to full operating temperature & running at idle speed
5) engine warmed up to full operating temperature & running at ~ 2500 rpm
6) engine warmed up to full operating temperature & running at idle speed again

In steps 1, 2 & 3 the off/on ratio (duty cycle) is static. … In steps 4,5 & 6 it is supposed to fluctuate (with amplitude & frequency as described under “Check procedures“ in post #2) !

For detailed instructions about with what meter & how to check the off/on ratio (duty cycle) see what I said under “Measuring device”, “Preparations”, “Check procedures” and “Static duty cycle” in post #2 !

And if the duty cycle deviates from what it should be, interpret the deviation correctly and check for its cause(s) ! … Ask someone who‘s familiar with the KE-Jetronic to help you with that if necessary.

H.D.

 

[H.D.]

... It's time for a PDF manual, H.D. so that everyone can download.

I‘m planing to make a PDF manual about the KE-Jetronic‘s Lambda control after I will have added a number of further things about this topic here in this thread. That PDF manual will contain everything I said & still will say in this thread in an edited form plus explaining diagrams, time permitting.

I‘d like to make other CIS-E related PDF manuals too … for instance about (partly little-known) CIS-E tests & interpretation of the results, which can take a lot of guess work out of troubleshooting and lead to targeted diagnosis. … But that is a significantly wider topic than "Lambda control" and definitely takes more time than I will have anytime soon.

I regard understanding Lambda control as such an important basis for targeted troubleshooting on CIS-E engines, that I wanted to talk in detail about this topic first. ...

I wish I had known this before the plug in my FD tower was taken out in order to adjust the screw to get the regulated emission level measurements passed...

If the duty cycle (or the EHA current) was not checked before that plug was taken out and the adjustment screw was turned and it is unknown exactly how far in which direction it was turned ... then it is impossible to tell what caused the engine not to pass that test before the adjustment screw was touched. … As I said in my last post, in that case unfortunately “diagnostic information is gone for good“.

Assuming that the adjustment was done solely based on exhaust gas measurement at the tail pipe instead of based on EHA current or duty cycle, I‘d check at least the latter.

... fortunately I still do have a great running M103 (which is well past the 500 000 km mark). ...

Thank you for appreciating this thread.

H.D.

 

[H.D.]

I know, we talked about it a while back. My offer still stands, I can save you a lot of of time formatting and publishing it when you're done and ready to post it here.

Thank you very much, GreenT. .. I remember your offer and I‘d like to take you up on it if necessary.

It‘ll take some time anyway until I will have added several other things to this thread first. These are things that are, IMO, important to know in order to understand this least understood function of the KE-Jetronic that “Lambda control“ is with its function chain “o2 sensor → CIS-ECU → EHA → FD“, and what the commonly misunderstood “duty cycle“ is trying to tell us and how we should react on that. … I hope that, so far, particularly posts 39 & 40 are helpful for some readers in that regard. …

H.D.

 

[H.D.]

BTW, I recommend owners of CIS-E cars without that plug in the Lambda adjustment tower to plug it somehow !

An unplugged Lambda adjustment tower is a vacuum leak that allows unmetered air to go into the engine. … When you plug it, do that in such a way that the spring-loaded adjustment pin in the adjustment tower is not push down ! … I use self-made wooden plugs for that.

H.D.

 

[H.D.]

Member luckymike asked me to explain how Lambda control was originally set and whether it is possible to set it back to the correct setting after the Lambda adjustment screw has been tinkered with.

Consider that the “duty cycle adjustment“ is actually, as I said, an adjustment of the EHA‘s operating range … and that, when that adjustment was originally done, everything was new & clean & (supposed to be) well working. Under these conditions the Lambda adjustment screw was set to the position at which the EHA current fluctuated around zero milliamp (EHA baffle plate fluctuating around its currentless rest position), which is represented by a duty cycle fluctuating around 50%.

Contrary to common belief, that adjustment was done irrespectively of o2 sensor voltage and exhaust emissions. The EHA current (fluctuating around zero milliamp) was the only parameter for the adjustment. …

Exhaust emissions were checked after the adjustment was done.
If they were according to specification, everything was fine … and the Lambda adjustment tower was sealed with a (difficult to remove ) plug.
If they were not according to specification, there was either a fuel combustion affecting problem (not necessarily with the injection system ) or a problem with the o2 sensor or with the CAT or an exhaust leak between cylinder head & CAT. … In such a (very rare) case the exhaust emissions were, of course, not corrected by turning the Lambda adjustment screw but by fixing the problem that caused the emissions to be out of spec while the EHA current was fluctuating around zero milliamp (duty cycle fluctuating around 50%).

Conversely, the duty cycle indicates, according to its purpose, whether there is/are (a) fuel combustion or Lambda control affecting problem(s) or not … which after ~30 years is often the case, of course.

If you know that the Lambda adjustment screw has never been tinkered with, or exactly how far it has been turned in what direction in relation to its original setting, or what the duty cycle reading was each time before & after the Lambda adjustment screw was touched, then the duty cycle can still be used as a reliable basis for diagnoses … which, depending on its value/range, points to or excludes specific potential problems. After fixing all problems, if any, the EHA current, respectively the duty cycle, not only can but should be readjust according to the procedures in post 2.

If you do not know whether the Lambda adjustment screw has been turned or how far it has been turned in what direction, then, as I said in post 40, “valuable diagnostic information is gone for good (!) and everything that has an effect on fuel combustion (see examples under “Please note“ in post #2) has to be checked first before further touching the adjustment screw, in order to reliably restore a proper condition of the system“ !

It may sound like a broken record, but this post should further help to realize that the Lambda duty cycle is a provider of diagnostic information … and not something that should be ignored or simply readjusted via Lambda adjustment screw. I continuously see the latter being suggested here at BW instead of first checking/fixing all potential problems that can cause the duty cycle reading to deviate from the above mentioned setting range. The duty cycle should primarily be readjusted by fixing the problem(s) that cause(s) its deviation !

This post should also help to understand that using the o2 sensor voltage or exhaust emissions as parameters for adjustments via adjustment tower (instead of the EHA current, or at least the duty cycle) is a bad idea ! … It may get the car through an emission test, but shorten the engine‘s life !

H.D.

 

[H.D.]

Thank you very much for your appreciation MBL.

The Lambda adjustment tower not being sealed anymore is not a big problem … it can easily be plugged (see post 48). … Blindly tinkering or rashly readjusting the duty cycle (respectively EHA current) with it are bad ideas. Only those readjustments are advisable that are done after all specific potential problems that caused the deviation have been checked and, if necessary, fixed.

Lambda control and exhaust gas emissions are two different things. … Lambda control is based on feedback from the (hopefully healthy) o2 sensor which knows nothing about exhaust gas emissions, except for residual oxygen. Thus Lambda control is only based on the amount of residual oxygen in the exhaust gas … which depends not only on the air/fuel mixture, btw. :wink_2: … Depending on possible fuel combustion affecting problems Lambda control may still be able to keep the amount of residual oxygen, that‘s reported by the o2 sensor in the form of voltage, within spec … of course, with effect on EHA current & duty cycle, possibly also on exhaust gas emissions. Once the exhaust gas has passed the o2 sensor, the only thing that still has an effect on its emissions is the CAT (as far as it‘s still existing, respectively working).

That is why (after fixing all possible fuel combustion affecting problems !) the Lambda adjustment tower should only be used to adjust Lambda control, not exhaust gas emissions. If after the adjustment according to EHA current (respectively duty cycle) the exhaust gas emissions are within spec, congratulations! But don‘t try to keep the exhaust gas emissions within spec via Lambda adjustment tower, if that results in an EHA current fluctuation range far from zero milliamps, respectively in a duty cycle fluctuation range far from 50% !

H.D.

 

[H.D.]

... Our MB W126 injection is far more exacting, isn't it? Many more considerations to take into account, before any additional action is taken. ...

Absolutely! … The K-Jetronic (CIS) and the KE-Jetronic (CIS-E) are two very different animals, not only regarding the Electronic part … so different that I started this whole thread (under “Basics“) by pointing to one of the (significant) differences between them. …