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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey yall!

Litterally first post ever on a forum, anyway I bought a 300te 4matic this week. Paid 750cad for it, it cranks and pretty much everything works inside and the inside is mint and almost like new. The owner parked it outside for the last year and told me that they started it back then and set outside until now. I putted a new battery inside and removed the air cowl/scoop to get acces to the fuel line and airflow meter underneath it.

But I have spoken with a few guy that works on those mercedes and they told me to check the fuel line to see if they were bad so I am wondering which one is in and out since I might as well pull a little bit of fuel out of the tank by jumping the fuel pump relay (got a question about that after) to see how it looks so if someone could help me with that it would be awesome!

Now the mercedes tech sent me a few diagram but they dont match my car but I found something that looked like a relay and is written "MAS" on it so I think that would be it, but that bring me to my question which is, does someone know which pin to jump to activate only the fuel pump ?

Thanks in advance!
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'95 E300 DIESEL, '91 600SEL, '92 600SEL
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The fuel pump relay function is integrated into the MAS.

Before you get too invested in the car, are you sure the 4Matic portion works as it should? Are there are any lit warning lights? You should at least check the fill plug at the transfer case. IF a mix of ATF and hydraulic oil comes out, you're going to be in for a rough and expensive ride.

The 4Matic on the W124 was MB's first every consumer AWD system, and was pretty much a customer funded R&D project. The transfer case is the major weak point, and they all go bad at some point without exception and good used examples are extremely difficult to source.

Parts are very hard and every expensive to get since it shares nothing with the standard W124 other than the body shell. Heck, the 4Matic was so different from the standard variant it even had its own assembly line.
 

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First steps if you make up your mind to keep it after reading and checking out the 4 matic system in the post above ..Because the 4 matic system can be very expensive to fix if its gone tits up - Gooing on to the engine side and to get it going i would first clean all the electrical items you can see along with earth points fuses will need changing for ceramic and brass you will find if original they will have the white metal tips that corrode . .,,looking at the relay above the base of that will need cleaning ..The electrical system ht side needs replacing plugs ht leads distributor cap and rotor arm ,all with good Bosch items .
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks Sbaert for your info, I knew that the transfer case is a week point on these, I havent see any warning light whenver I put it at on or try to crank it but since it wont start I'm afraid I wont know if there is any warning messages, but the old couple told me it was all fine and that the only thing they remove was the cat because they were not able to climb a hill with a really beefy angle.. which I find weird but I kind of get it after seeing it.

I havent been able to check much the transfer case nor the fuel line underneath the car since there is a few inches of snow and my vw trash can is taking place in the garage :D but I will definitky look it up whenever I get the chance to get a jack underneath it.

The fact the it may be broken and rare to find aint a problem to me, I'm an apprentice mechanic so I will be able to fix it one day and I dont mind waiting for the oportunity to come, especially at the price thst I got it for. But would it still run and drive even if the 4matic aint working ? I checked the hydraulic level in the engine bay and it seemed at level but is pretty dark for hydraulic oil, but I have never messed with any in a car, only on some bobcat and small doser. The car also has 240k km that I forgot to mention.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hi plinker17722, thanks for your comments!

What do you mean by earth point fuses ? I have tried to look it up but doesent really yield me any result. But I am supposing you are talking about the "old" type of fuses that mercedes used in that era ? I have looked at the fuse box in the engine bay and yes some of them are so corroded that I feel like they doubled in size but I will add a picture later on if this is any interest to you.

I bought some new spark plug but they are ngk plat so I was already thinking returning them and get some bosch/oem from mercedes since they aint that expensive whenever I called.

Does Mercedes sell the brass and copper fuses you are talking about or would I need to get them trough somewhere else ? I could call but aint sure yet what fuses I'm looking for 😅

As for the distributor cap and rotor, a few mercedes tech told me to first remove it and inspect to see if there is any moisture/condesation or any corrosion inside and then after cleaning it to put it in and try it again, but if I need to replace anything it will for sure be some bosch since even in my vw they are pretty much the only that I go for whenever available.
 

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'92 300TE 4matic 280,000miles, '92 300TE 4Matic 'Ice Blue Metalic' 101,000miles
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Thanks Sbaert for your info, I knew that the transfer case is a week point on these, I havent see any warning light whenver I put it at on or try to crank it but since it wont start I'm afraid I wont know if there is any warning messages, but the old couple told me it was all fine and that the only thing they remove was the cat because they were not able to climb a hill with a really beefy angle.. which I find weird but I kind of get it after seeing it.

I havent been able to check much the transfer case nor the fuel line underneath the car since there is a few inches of snow and my vw trash can is taking place in the garage :D but I will definitky look it up whenever I get the chance to get a jack underneath it.

The fact the it may be broken and rare to find aint a problem to me, I'm an apprentice mechanic so I will be able to fix it one day and I dont mind waiting for the oportunity to come, especially at the price thst I got it for. But would it still run and drive even if the 4matic aint working ? I checked the hydraulic level in the engine bay and it seemed at level but is pretty dark for hydraulic oil, but I have never messed with any in a car, only on some bobcat and small doser. The car also has 240k km that I forgot to mention.
Picture yourself at the bottom of a long, steep hill with a thousand stair steps. Not only do you have to sort out all the usual suspension, engine and electronic woes in an old Benz, but the 4Matic portion as well.

You HAVE to get under the car at some point and pull the fill plug in the TC. What's in there is so critical that it can help decide whether or not to keep the car. ALL original TC's fail with the aluminum piston and seal. Some last longer than others, given how & where they were driven. They're all toast by 130,000 legitimate miles.

Don't assume that because you have no trouble light indication, you're home free. Many of these have had the bulb removed before sale.....or an PO owner never worked through the 4Matic system and just removed the bulb.

At the very least, drive the car through some slushy snow and mash down on the throttle. You should see the 4Matic triangle light indicator come on towards the top middle of your dash. You should also feel the car correct itself in tracking function. Easy to flush out the system with fresh hydraulic oil while it idles. Use ONLY approved MB hydraulic fluid. Use of anything else will just compound your problems.

It could very well be that a PO sorted though the 4Matic system, but I highly doubt it. 4Matic cars that are turning up now after all the yrs are usually problem children.....or somebody died. You're looking for a plate on the side of the TC that indicates it's a factory reman.

4Matics are cars that you 'pay to play'. You can't keep them running from box store auto parts. And the proprietary parts are becoming more and more rare. Most of us 4Matic owners have at least one donor car to steal from. Occasionally, they turn up in JY's, but not so much anymore.

Eventually, if you keep your car long enough you'll see the wisdom in what I'm telling you. But right now you'll just think I'm a Debbie Downer and you can work around your issues easily. Yes it will drive without the 4Matic working, but what would be the point of that unless the car was given to you?

Kevin
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Hi Real1shepherd,

I get that I have to get underneath it to pull that drain, we got a few inches of snow that will melt this week so I will take care of that this week.

I know there will be a thousand step like you said amd it wont be easy and I am trying to see where I can get started since there is so much to look at and take care of. I know it will be a money pit but for what I paid I think its all worth it and I really dont plan on selling it anytime soon, even if the transfer case is blown.

I am currently trying to find an other donor car but the last owner told me there was only 12 300te 4 matic in Canada so I might have to go down to the us, which does not bother me, but one step at a time, I aint the person to start throwing parts at something without being 100% sure that it is what it needs.

No you are not being a Debbie Downer, just realistic and making sure I understand whatever I am gonna pull myself trough. It wont be easy and I know it, but if I never start I wont ever be going somewhere with it. The point of being able to run without the 4 matic is just getting her to run for now and do what I can on it right now. I am an apprentice mechanic in my second year and someday I will be able to get my hands on one or I will rebuild it by myself. But as I said before, one thing at a time and gotta pull that drain plug this week.


Thank you for all you advice and time :D
 

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These die a slow death just sitting around. These cars are designed and thrive on slapping on the miles/kms. At 240K km as mentioned by the OP, the transmission is running on borrowed time unless it was already replaced prior.

IF both transmission and transfer case are goners, then you better have at least 5K in American currency ready to hand over.

If you think you can wait it out, then the fuel system will take its toll and hand you a expensive repair bill as well to get back up and running.

As I said, don't get too invested, emotionally attached or overjoyed just yet. There are numerous reasons why 4Matics are practically being given away. I only mentioned a few.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Actually I just looked at the hydraulic tank and it is completly empty so probably not a good sign on my part 🙃
 

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'92 300TE 4matic 280,000miles, '92 300TE 4Matic 'Ice Blue Metalic' 101,000miles
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Actually I just looked at the hydraulic tank and it is completly empty so probably not a good sign on my part 🙃
Lol....and you can ignore what PO's tell you....they mostly lie or live in denial with respect to 4Matics. I would work on the basics like the ignition system and fuel system.....work through them to get the car running. Then I'd start on the suspension system paying particular attention to engine mounts, tie rods and driveshaft flex discs. Sort the car so it's running adequately(safely) and then start sorting the 4Matic system.

Putting in the ceramic fuses with copper strips will probably restore a lot of the electrical functions....replace the OVP too if older than ten yrs.

I doubt there are only 12 4Matics in Canada....there's been that many 4matic owners in Canada that posted in here over the yrs.....doubtful every owner has come to or heard of BW. Lots of the cars went to the Pacific Corridor, which would include BC. Lots went to the South....which is kind of an enigma. Popular in the Great Lakes area at one time as well. My current one came from Kentucky originally.

With the hydraulic reservoir empty.....I'm betting that someone pulled the 4Matic trouble light or it burnt out from being on continuously.

TE's have a long fuel line that comes from the first FP near the tank to the second FP near the hydraulic valve....it's usually rotted. Change out fuel filter as a matter of course. Given the rust potential and marginal gas....you should consider changing/cleaning the actual tank filter/screen which is accessible with the right tools.

Kevin
 
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